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Revisiting Italy

Whilst our time in Athens had been a pleasant surprise, with the vibrancy, and cheap cost of living, with Italy, we knew what we were getting. Long a favourite of ours, Italy is a country that we have previously explored at length. I will have blogged about it somewhere, I’m sure.

Heading out of Athens there was only one place to start. The Eternal City. Flying into Rome, and transferring to the Termini railway station I immediately felt a sense of calm. Rome is a city that I have explored many times and I never fail to tire of her beauty. Around every corner is something new to stop you in your tracks. Make you pause. And consider the history, and the people that have come before you.

Rome wasn’t visited in a day

Talking of people, Rome was busier than I have ever seen it. True, you may think this of everywhere you go, but this time it was very noticeable. One of my favourite places in Rome to quietly spend a little time is in the Pantheon. Stood in the middle of the vast structure, and staring up through the circular hole, to the sky. With each previous visit I have just wandered in, and around, and taken my time.

When we got there this time, there were long queues, snaking around and around, just like you see when you arrive at passport control in Manchester. No longer were we able to just stroll in and take a quiet moment. We had thought we were travelling in what used to be known as the “shoulder season”. Coupled with the cost of living crisis I keep reading about in the UK and European news, I hadn’t expected such huge numbers of tourists.

Experiencing life through a lens

Things were just as bad at the Trevi fountain. Always a popular spot, never have I been there when you physically struggle to even make your way from one side of the fountain to the other. And the rather sad thing was that most people weren’t even looking at the fountain. They were looking into their phone, on selfie mode, trying to get the perfect picture. Are the days gone where people can just visit somewhere and enjoy it for what it is? As we travel around the world, the great sights are becoming less like places of pilgrimage, and more like Disneyland. Sigh.

Yes, I realise the irony of having a selfie above the last paragraph 🙂

Give me carbonara, please!

One thing that lifts my spirits, when I visit Rome, is the thought of getting Roman carbonara. Around the world there are few dishes as ruined as the humble spaghetti carbonara. Bacon. Cream. What?! Talk about ways to spoil one of the world’s great dishes. But, here in Rome, I know I am getting what I expect. A dish made only of spaghetti, eggs, pecorino romano, guincale, and black pepper. I am getting hungry even writing about it. I could eat pasta every day, and I could eat Roman carbonara twice a day.

Leaning into Pisa

For the sake of my waistline, we needed to move on from Rome after a couple of days. We were back to Termini train station, and heading for a 4 hour journey to Pisa, famous for perhaps the most photographed tower in history. And like everyone else, we did our best to keep it upstanding. Strolling through the Piazza dei Miracoli never have I seen such imaginative photos being taken. The tower being held up. Being pushed over. The tower coming out of ice cream cones. Out of backpacks. You name it, all day there is someone trying it.

Our accommodation in Pisa was only a 10 minute walk from the Leaning Tower of Pisa. A great bed and breakfast in an old building in the Santa Maria district of Pisa. Pisa itself is always associated with the tower, and less seen on photos are the buildings that share the Piazza with it. The Battista is stunning, as is the cathedral. But, people can’t seem to focus their lenses on anything but the famous leaning tower.

My focus was on a restaurant I had seen earlier in the day. Advertising itself as a Roman restaurant, specialising in carbonara, of all things. Guess where we went for dinner that night. And the menu was very simple. Spaghetti carbonara, or Carbonara Imperial, which is double egg and double guanciale. Very simple and very tasty. 

Cash preferred

When it came to paying it turned out there was a “problem with the card machine”, and would I mind paying cash? Without any cash on us, the waiter walked with me to where the nearest ATM was. On the way he was chatting, explaining the “tax is very high” in Italy and cash is better. Ah, I was now beginng to understand why the card machine wasn’t working. That said, the waiter was exteremly freindly, and only charged us 30 euros for dinner, knocking 3 euros off for the “inconvenience”. 

Far from inconvenient, train travel through Italy is fast, reliable, and very efficient. After a couple of days exploring Pisa, and more importantly, having a laundry day, we were setting off to Florence. A favourite city of ours (we could say that about much of Italy), we had a journey of less than an hour, bringing us into Santa Maria Novella train station. From there a short walk had us at our hotel in the city centre.

If it is Florence, it has to be Bistecca alla Fiorentina

If you have been to Florence you will understand why people flock to it every year. It has been 5 years since we were last here and these cities being what they are, centuries old, you soon get your bearings back. With the Duomo dominating the centre, and streets leading down to the River Arno, everything is accessible on foot. One of Mrs C’s favourite spots in the city is Piazza della Signoria, where she can marvel at the replica statue of David.

Last time we were here a recommendation from the AirBnB host had us having our first Bistecca alla Fiorentina at a local trattoria. And yes, we went back this time. Without a reservation, we were queued at the doors, ready for the 7pm opening. Easy we thought. Not so. We were told that the restaurant was full, unless we could eat, and finish within the hour. Absolutely, I said. I don’t feel Victoria was quite as enthusiastic, yet when the steak arrived, a smile crept onto her face. Just like the first time we visited, we were plied with limoncello at the end of the meal, even being “forced” to have one for the road with the staff.

Towering above Tuscany

One place that has been on our list for a long time, having missed the opportunity a few years ago, is the famed town of San Gimignano. Known for the many towers that loom over the Tuscan countryside, we were only a short train ride, and then a bus from San Gimignano so we made our way there.

Back in the 12th century, monied landowners would build towers to display how wealthy they were. It became a competition. A medieval “keeping up with the Jones”. Now, there are a lot fewer than the orignal 72 towers left yet San Gimignano remains a draw for the thousands of toursits that visit every year. We ambled through the old centre and had a great pasta lunch (not carbonara this time) with a glass of wine, keeping away from the biting wind as much as feeding our appetites.

Magnificent Milan

Our last stop in Italy was again to be somewhere we have spent time and thoroughly enjoy. Arriving into Central Station in Milan, I had one thing on my mind. Risotto Milanese. Each region in Italy is renowned for a certain cuisine, (did I mention carbonara in Rome?), and in the north, in Lombardy, risotto is king. Although, I wouldn’t get this dish until tomorrow, our last night in Italy.

The first day was all about re-exploring Milan. The hugely impressive Duomo. The exquisite Gallerie Emmanuel. The Castle Sforzi and the surrounding parks. The elegant cobbled streets of Brera. Meandering through Milan I couldn’t help but notice a distinct change in temperature. The colours in the parks were autumnal, but the temperatures were wintry. We were now having to dig out the few winter clothes we had packed back in June when we left Australia. I was very glad to have my woolly hat to keep the morning chill off my ears.

Our apartment was like the one in Athens, in that it was located in a large, nondescript looking residential apartment block. It was in a great location, just a 10 minute walk from the Duomo, and nearby there were a number of supermarkets, a traveller’s best friend. Each morning we were able to pick up a couple of pain au chocolats and a coffee, all for under 5 euros. A perfect way to start the day.

The day, and sadly, our trip through Italy, was coming to an end. We finished at a cosy restaurant not far from the hotel and the canals of Milan. I had Risotto Milanese with osso bucco and Victoria had the pan fried Risotto Milanese, a way of cooking this northern Italian dish that I hadn’t seen before. We toasted another great country and we looked ahead to what were sure to be, colder days in country number 14.

Am I in Switzerland, or France?

If the change in temperature in Milan slowly crept up on us, when we arrived in Switzerland it hit us like a stone. We were going to have to get creative with the few clothes we have squeezed into our bags. Thankfully, we did pack rain jackets, as when we left the airport in Basel it was raining.

Arriving in Basel is a strange experience. As you will know, Basel is in Switzerland. Yet, the airport is actually in France. This threw me into a momentary panic when I was checking out how to get from the airport to downtown Basel. I hadn’t expected to have to find my way from France.

Leaving the airport, is another novel experience. After collecting our bags from the luggage carousel we searched for the exit signs. And there were a couple of options. We could exit into France. Or into Switzerland. Are there any other airports in the world with this scenario? We were later to discover, and visit, a place up the river in Basel where the borders of Switzerland, Germany, and France all converge. Never had I been so close to three countries, all at the same time.

Switzerland, so the currency is CHF. Obvious?

Back at the airport, we left through the Swiss exit and after a short wait we were on a bus headed into the city of Basel. Whilst in the Schengen zone, Switzerland maintains its own currency, the Swiss Franc (CHF). Why “CHF” you ask? I asked myself the same question and a bit of research taught me that CH is the official domination of Switzerland. CH, standing for Confœderatio Helvetica, the offical name of Switzerland. This also explained the numerous CH stickers on Swiss cars.

A transfer to a tram and we arrived at our hotel just before 10pm. The latest we have arrived at one of our destinations. The downside of budget air travel. The upside was that we could spend a little more on our accommodation. Our hotel had a fridge. So salubrious. And a mini bar that was complementary. Quite why that fridge would only have one beer is beyond me, but I am not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.

It was at this point that I observed what I at first found odd, and have since found out is very common across European countries. The single duvets (two of them) on a double bed. I have since come to realise it happens everywhere, and I like it. Snuggle up in your own little cocoon and don’t be disturbed by your partner’s nocturnal duvet hogging.

Basel, a great introduction to Switzerland

Wandering around Basel was a great introduction to Switzerland. So scenic, with an old town that hasn’t changed for centuries. Meandering through the narrow streets, marvelling at the houses, with a growing sense of excitement as we noticed all the xmas decorations, and large xmas trees all over the city. The xmas markets had arrived in force in Switzerland and it wasn’t long before we were having our first gluhwein of the season. Served in festive mugs, the mulled wine was delicious, sat outside a little cafe, on sheepskin rugs to keep our bottoms warm.

So, in Switzerland, a Cordon Bleu is a posh schnitty

Our “cost of living” indicator had changed from spaghetti carbonara to a wiener schnitzel. A “schnitty” is a classic pub dish in Australia, a particular favourite of ours. The schnitzel hails from this part of the world, next door in Austria, and were to use it to see how expensive places were. Our first evening I had a posh schnitzel. The Cordon Bleu. A schnitzel wrapped around ham and melting cheese. Delicious. And pricey in Switzerland, as we were to learn everything is.

Some things are worth paying for. And regardless of cost, we were on the hunt for our first Swiss hot chocolate. And, we found it. Thick, creamy, and steaming hot. Served with a chocolate on the side, Victoria had a smile that could have lit up the city. Happy wife, happy life, or so they say.

After a couple of days it was time to hit the road again. We had a train booked to Bern and after securing a hotel, my next job was to find a bar showing the England vs Iran football match. 

Why is there a bear pit in Bern?

Switzerland has no official capital, but Bern is one of the three that commonly gets recognised. Walking from our hotel, over the water and past the bear pit…wait, bear pit? Yup, it turns out that Bern has its very own bear pit with a connection to bears that stretches all the way back to the city receiving its name.

Legend has it that Berchtold V, Duke of Zähringen, the founder of the City of Bern, vowed to name the city after the first animal he met on the hunt. This explains the preponderence of bears on the city flag of Bern, and the many statues of them across this beautiful city. It was just a shame that it was the time of the year that the bears hibernate.

I also discovered that Einstein lived a few years in Bern. Passing the apartment he lived in I discovered that it was in Bern that he developed some of his theories that were to change the world, and how we saw physics. The great man is commenorated by a museum in his old apartment and with various statues across the city.

Switzerland steals our hearts

You don’t have to be Einstein to work out how great Bern is. Once again I am left asking myself why we have never visited Switzerland before. Picture postcard perfect. I must pass on my gratitude to Victoria. We were originally going to travel straight from Basel to Zurich. Left to research the options, Victoria got looking at other places in Switzerland that we could visit on the way to Zurich. And so we found ourselves exploring a lot more of this beautiful country than we expected.

I even managed to find a bar to watch the football in, and we were the only ones in there for a while, until a couple of the bar owner’s friends joined us. This suited us fine as we quaffed cold Swiss lager and watched England make light work of Iran.

Tomorrow, we head to Interlaken, and I will be sure to share what we discover.

Were the European xmas markets as good as we expected?

The last time we spoke I was extolling the virtues of Austria. Such a beautiful country, and it felt even more special having the opportunity to visit through the festive period. I have read a lot about the Xmas markets in Europe, and from Switzerland, through to Austria, they lived up to all our expectations.

It was also as cold as we expected. Knowing this, we hadn’t committed to still being in Europe over Xmas and my birthday. Packing in Australia, for an extended world trip, our options were limited. There is only so much you can fit into a 55 litre bag. This resulted in us surviving the European wintry conditions by wearing many layers, and the only footwear we had available, which were trainers.

Europe did not disappoint

Europe was excellent. Right from the get go. We landed in the UK in July and enjoyed a rather unprecedented warm summer. We caught up with family and friends. I even got a side trip to Dublin to keep the “annual lads trip” tradition going, even if it is somewhat more erratic than annual. Now, it was time to say goodbye to Europe, with a final swansong back in Lisbon. We had a boat to catch. We were headed to New York City.

Start spreading the news

You heard that right. We were going to take a 9 day cruise to NYC. Our first cruise. Ever. And something that definitely was not in plan until a week or so before we booked it. Looking at options for flights, and when we wanted to be in New York, a slow cruise across the Atlantic Ocean, with planned stops in the Azores and Bermuda sounded like a great experience. Yes, we had always said we didn’t want to do a cruise, but life throws opportunities that sometimes you just have to grab. A discounted cruise across the ocean was one such opportunity. Coupled with lower carbon emissions, had we flown, was a bonus.

An “Epic” adventure

This is how we found ourselves leaving Lisbon onboard the Norwegian Cruise Line’s “Epic”. A huge ship that was being repatriated back to the US, after cruising the Meditteranen for the summer. She sails back across the Atlantic to spend the winter sailing between New York and Puerto Rico. With a capacity of 4000 guests, there were approx 2000 other passengers that joined us for the crossing. A crossing that just got a little more monotonous even as we boarded. It turned out there was a strike in Lisbon that day which meant that we could not leave until 2am the day after. The knock on effect of this was that we would no longer have time to dock at The Azores.

Exploring the boat

One stop cancelled, with just the Bermuda one remaining. How we would relish arriving in Bermuda for an opportunity to stretch our legs on dry land. Until then, we had to settle into our cabin, and get familiar with where things were. Starting on the top deck, 15, and working our way down.

As part of our package we had food and drinks included. All inclusive. A concept that is still relatively new to me. I had done it once, on safari in Africa, and I still marvel at the fact I can just rock up to the bar and order a drink without paying. This is how we started the cruise. Finding O’Sheehans Bar and Grill, which is where we watched the World Cup unfold, and ordering a pint of beer each. We sat at the bar, trying to get our heads around how we would fill 9 days at sea.

Life at sea finds its routine

Soon, days took on a familar pattern. A great breakfast, during which I predicictably ate too much. A stroll through the casino and onto the library to pick up our daily crossword and sudoku. An Irish coffee at O’Sheehans. An hour in the gym, trying not to get thrown off the treadmill as the boat see sawed through the large waves of the Atlantic. Another walk through the boat, people watching, which, by the way, could be a full time activity on a cruise. Watching them at one of the many “exciting” offerings on the boat was hilarious. People rushed to join in line dancing lessons. Napkin folding classes. And even fruit carving demonstrations.

We bypassed the fruit carving, but definitely not lunch. There were a multitude of restauramts to choose from, all very good. Food was a highlight of the cruise. It was excellent. From the option of a buffet, offering most foods you could think of, to a la carte restaurants that were included in our ticket. I even had quite possibly the biggest lasagne in the world.

On World Cup days we had matches to watch at 3pm and 7pm. This was before we hit a run of clock changes. For the last five days we had to change our clocks back one hour each night. This was so that by the time we reached NYC we were on the same time zone. On the few days that there was no football on, we either spent time reading or went ten pin bowling. Like trying to stay on the treadmill as the boat roiled in the waves, bowling had its own challenges. You may think you have bowled a strike, until half way down, the boat rolls, and your ball ends up in the side gutter. Let me tell you, it made for a very low scoring game.

Bermuda, blocked

Each evening, when we returned to the cabin, we had a “Day at sea” itinerary. We were excitingly going to be docking in Bermuda on day 7. Except, we didn’t. The evening before, the tannoy cackled with the voice of the captain. The first time we had heard from him. This couldn’t be good.

And it wasn’t. Due to the rough crossing, and bad weather, we were unable to dock at Bermuda. Very sorry, blah, blah, blah, but we were now going to go the whole way to NYC without touching dry land. A long 9 days. This was sweetened, slightly, with every guest receiving $200 credit to use on the boat. Vik took the opportunity to get a manicure. With my nails already in excellent condition I bought a bottle of single malt whisky.

Sailing up the Hudson

Our experience of crossing the Atlantic turned out to be long, and memorable. Some days, when I couldn’t stand up straight as I was walking to dinner, I cursed the day we boarded. Other days, sipping my regular whisky nightcaps, I marvelled at the simplicity of it all. The routine. The confines of the boat. The same faces, day after day. There is comfort in routine, and for the last nine days we hadn’t had to find a hotel, book a train, or search high and low for a good evening meal.

So, as we woke on that final morning, with views of New York City, we asked each other, “would you do another cruise?”

“Absolutely not”, we both replied. But then, as the last week has shown us, life has a funny way of turning out. And, I do love an Irish coffee.

VietJet to Vietnam

With the new year it was time to leave Tokyo and head into Vietnam. We started 2023 in SouthEast Asia. A place that our dwindling dollars will stretch a little bit further. If only we had some of those dollars on us for the flight from Japan. The VietJet flight. An international airline. And it was cash only. Yes, I haven’t got this the wrong way around. In recent times, as a result of the COVID pandemic, most flights have transitioned to card payments only. A welcome move away from pesky cash. But here, in the air, between countries, our cards were of no use. And we had no Vietnamese currency. Why would we? We always pick some up on arrival. 

So, despite almost pleading with the stewards on the plane, we could get no food or drink for the next 6 hours. And, we had missed breakfast, thinking we would get it in the airport in Tokyo. That plan hadn’t worked out. Hitting the worst queue for check in I have ever experienced, once we had waited 2 and a half hours to check our bags in, we had to rush to the plane. So, if you are keeping count, this means that we had no food from last nights dinner, until we managed to get somewhere in Hanoi, Vietnam. A total of approximately, well, I was too tired to work it out.

Hungry in Hanoi

We arrived tired and very hungry, which resulted in overpaying for some street food. The smells of roast pork drifting up off the makeshift BBQ, we asked for two bahn mi. Vietnam’s finest sandwich. Walking away, devouring the sandwich, enjoying the heat of the chilli and the fragrance of the coriander, we didn’t pay too much attention to what we had paid.

We never saw the street vendor again after that night. I can only assume he retired and is living at the beach with what we paid him. We will never see that $11 again. Settling down on to a tiny blue plastic stool later in the evening, the $1.50 beers (86p) somewhat made up for it. I was reminded of a refrain I had heard previosuly from a traveller to her partner, “this is Asia, babe.”

Hanoi traffic and the art of crossing the road

Crossing the road in Hanoi is an art form. And it goes something like this. Whatever the situation with oncoming traffic, just start walking. And walk. And keep walking. For your safety, do not hesitate, or stop. It is like a form of magic. Drivers know what is ahead of them, which is you, and start adjusting accordingly. They anticipate your walking speed and drive around you. And it works. Trust me. There are even videos on YouTube explaining this. Crossing is a little easier when it is “only” a train that is due. Although we never did get to see one passing when we visited Train Street.

We were crossing the road to go and buy tissues. Victoria had a nose that seemingly refused to stop running. Tissues were required. The first pharmacy we entered, blissfully chilled from the air conditioning, came up trumps. A pack of 6. The price looked good and so we took them to the counter. However, we found out that the price was per individual pack, and so, for all 6 it would be 49000 Vietnamese Dong. We both sucked through our teeth, “ooh, I’m not sure about that”. And promptly walked out. 

There was no way we could afford $3.05. Not when we needed that same $3 (£1.73) for two beers tonight. Victoria’s nose would just have to run.

Halong Bay

Hanoi is a great place to visit. It feels welcoming. And small, despite its size. Walking around the lake. Wandering the Old Quarter. Drinking egg coffee (yes, egg coffee. It was delicious. You will just have to trust me on this one). And strolling through the French quarter, marvelling at the original architecture. That said, there is more to northern Vietnam than just Hanoi, and so we took ourselves off on a few excursions.

One that should be on everyone’s list is an over night stay in Ha Long Bay. A UNESCO World Heritage site, every hotel in Hanoi offers tours here. We chose a 1 night stay which involved a bus pick up from our hotel in the city, a few hours drive to Ha Long, and then overnight on a boat, sailing amongst some of the most amazing scenery you will ever see. Of course, this is very popular, and you won’t be the only boat cruising the waters, yet, the experience remains tranquil.

That is until later in the evening. When the ubiquitous karaoke comes out. And if you have a mob of drunken Australian backpackers on your boat, as we did, sleep is not guaranteed. I was happy to see how hungover the young travellers were the next day, with all of them missing the 6am Tai Chi session on the top deck of the boat as the sun rose.

Nimh Binh 

A little closer to Hanoi is Nimh Binh. Close enough for us to do a fabulous day trip there. A trip that did not invlove any karaoke. Just beautiful countryside and a river that winds through rice paddy fields that we got to take a boat trip on. I am not sure why we had to stay on the bus and have a separate boat trip to the rest of our fellow passengers, and I am sure they thought the same as we were driven off by ourselves, into the unknown.

After what felt like the shortest bike ride in the world, we were taken for our “included buffet lunch”. We had some experience of these infamous buffet lunches so were not surprised to see cold rice, spring rolls, and instant noodles. Augmented with plates of fruit, and a nod to Western tastes, (fries), you could quite easily lose weight if you did enough trips. 

The delicious food of Vietnam

Whilst the Vietnamese buffet lunches really are a sight to behold, it would be grossly unfair to let this cloud your judgement of Vietnamese cuisine. There are some excellent dishes to be had. You know that the National dish is pho (pronounced “fur”), but did you know there are unlimited varieties of the famous noodle soup dish? 

A lot of the food is regional. Such as Bun Cha in Hanoi. Pork with rice. In Hoi An they have Cao Lau, a pork noodle dish. And everywhere they have the delicious baguettes that I mentioned above, Bahn Mi. What we did find was that these were of varying quality. And our favourite ones were the ones bought off street vendors. Simple fillings of pork, cucumber, coriander and chillies. Yum. And now we know what these should cost.

I mentioned egg coffee earlier. And yes, I pulled a face too. Then I tried it. Oh my, it is delicious. Strong, bitter coffee slowly coming through the sweet, whipped egg yolk. My mouth is watering as I write. If egg coffee is not your thing, try coffee on its own. Vietnam is the world’s second largest exporter of coffee and the options blew me away. From the traditional Vietnamese coffee pot, to some of the best espresso based coffees I have had, and I have had a lot, living in Australia.

Happy in Hoi An

Leaving Hanoi we headed south. Opting to eschew spending 17 hours on an overnight bus with smelly backpackers, we flew. Call us decadent but a 1 hour flight suited us just fine, thank you very much. 

Hoi An was really busy, and this doesn’t surprise me. The place, hugging the river, is beautiful. And so busy, which after 2 years of COVID must be a blessed relief for the locals. Much of their livelihood relies on tourism. Large numbers of tourists also leads to lots of easy going hassling from street vendors and tuk tuk drivers. If you have travelled in Asia you will be smiling now at the memory. 

“Tuk tuk, sir?”, is a common refrain. Very common. A short walk to town can have you fending off dozens of over eager drivers. And if I see another fancy unfolding greeting card I may scream. Crawling spiderman? Flying bird? Over priced coconut? It does get a little tiresome. Do people actually buy these things?

Visiting Golden Bridge in the Ba Na Hills

Set by the riverside, with glorious old French houses lining the streets Hoi An is a delight. Great cafes and restaurants. And when you want to venture further afield take a day trip to the Ba Na hills near Da Nang. A short 1 hour drive from Hoi An is a strange theme park. On the top of a hill. There is a Mercure hotel and loads of amusements that seem incrogruous with the area. To get there you take the worlds longest cable car. In fact you take two of them. And they are very high. 

At the top you get to see Golden Bridge. Which really is worth seeing. In fact, this was the sole reason we were on the trip. There are no options for a half day so we were in, boots and all, to the full day. Golden Bridge opened in June 2018 and I guess will already be one of the most Instagrammed spots on the planet. Go on. Check. Type “hand bridge” into Insta. I’ll wait. 

Impressive isn’t it? And I’m sure it is even more impressive on a clear day. Being the time of year that we visited, we had fog and mist. Still. We managed to get a few shots to join the millions already on social media. 

Ho Chi Minh

Our final stop in Vietnam was Ho Chi Minh city. Previously known as Saigon, it was renamed after the revered former leader of Vietnam in 1975. So revered in fact that the Vietnamese don’t want to say goodbye to him. So, the body of Ho Chi Minh now lies, fully embalmed, on open view in a mausoleum in Hanoi. That itself is worth a visit. 

Back in the land of the living, HCM city is a vast urban sprawl. If we thought the traffic in Hanoi was bad, HCM was on steroids. There are approximately 7 million scooters and moter bikes. And don’t you know it. They drive both ways down one way streets. Zip in and out of cars without a thought. And, if the traffic lights are red, they mount the curb and just drive down the pavement, cutting the lights out altogether. You really need your wits about you just walking down the street.

Escaping the sprawling city for the day we had a trip down to the Mekong River. Visiting some small islands down there and meeting locals who live a much simpler life. Growing and exporting coconuts is big business down in the Mekong region and we got to try fresh coconuts and also the candy that they make from it. 

Eating rat in the Mekong Delta

We also got to try other, more exotic foods. I had my first taste of rat. Very reminiscent of the guinea pig that I once had in Peru. Not something I would want to eat every day. Or, ever again. The rat, or the guinea pig. Victoria declined the offer of a rodent lunch and we both had a shot of “happy wine”. Very strong rice wine fermented with a whole menagerie of reptiles. Snakes and lizards galore in the bottle. The shot wasn’t that bad. I am just not sure why I have started growing scales on my body.

In two weeks we had seen a lot of Vietnam. The cities. The countryside. And the very friendly, very smiley Vietnamese people. It is a country that is easy to travel around and somewhere you are always made to feel welcome. Considering the history of this country, and the terrors of the Vietnam/American War in the 1960s, it has rebounded in a very positive way. Walking through the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh is a very sobering experience. Reading of the atrocities caused by the USA through use of Agent Orange brings tears to the eyes. Generations have suffered, and continue to suffer. With a heavy heart we take a moment to be grateful for the lives we have been fortunate to have lived.

Cambodia beckons

Vietnam is a country we would have loved to have stayed longer. However, our visa had only one day left, there is a story there too, but for another day, and so we were booked on a bus out. We were leaving Vietnam, crossing the land border on our way to Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia. Just a seven, which turned into nine, hour journey between us. 

Laos, the missing jigsaw piece

I first visited Southeast Asia way back in 1994. I can scarcely believe this is now almost 30 years ago. How young and naive I must have been. Over the years, hopefully a little bit wiser, and definitely older, I have been back numerous times. 

And yet, there was always a piece of the jigsaw missing. A piece that I could never seem to find no matter how hard I tried. With this in mind, as we embarked on our big travel sabbatical, I knew that this was my opportunity to complete my Southeast Asian jigsaw. This time I was going to Laos. 

The Peoples Democratic Republic of Laos

The Peoples Democratic Republic of Laos is the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia. Bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. I had travelled fairly extensively through all these neighbouring countries and never once ventured into Laos. How remiss of me.

As our small propeller plane from Bangkok had wheels down in Vientiane there was a slight sense of relief and a smile on my face. I was finally in Laos and in the 49th country that I have travelled to in my wanderlust years. 

The capital, Vientiane, is described as sleepy. I would say this is an understatement. Walking from our hotel, that first morning, and into town I could count the number of travellers on one hand. Where is everyone, I thought. And why are the streets so quiet. Possibly the quietest capital city I have ever been to. I had expected a buzz. Busy cafes. Street side tour operators selling you bus and flight tickets, much like you see almost everywhere in Southeast Asia. 

Yet, there was none of this. We strolled to the river front, taking in the views of nearby Thailand across the river. Ambling along the river it felt as though the town was deserted. What were we going to do for the next couple of days?

Finding excellent craft beer in Vientiane

When you travel you find that life finds its rhythm. Wherever you are you adapt. And so it was in Vientiane. We slowed down and mirrored the pace of life. We did find an excellent brewery. Incongruously situated quite a long walk from the centre of town, on a main road, and amongst a strip of run down shops. Following the blue dot on Google Maps I did think there must be a mistake, but eventually, set back from the road, we found it. 

Core Beer is a very new, very modern building that houses a brewery. A brewery much like the excellent ones we are blessed with in Western Australia. A cavernous place, and yet we were the only customers. Ordering two, excellent pale ales, I mused at how the young man working there filled his day. Much like everyone else in Southeast Asia, it turned out. Glued to his mobile phone. The beer was excellent and priced accordingly. Much more expensive than our new local drink, BeerLao, which cost about 11,000 kip each. Which equates to approx 97 cents, or 54 pence.

Our days in Vientiane were brightened up by food. We afforded ourselves a well earned break from the monotony of rice every day. Whilst in Vientiane, our dinners were an excellent pizza, from an Italian chef, and on the second night a tasty Indian curry, that cost us pennies. Finding good food for dinner becomes a mission after you have experienced the hotel breakfasts in Asia. Some are a lot worse than others and the one at S2 Modern Hotel in Vientiane left a lot to be desired. 

Not tubing in Vang Vieng

Moving on from Vientiane we headed to Vang Vieng by minibus. On a trip that used to take many hours, the new Laos-China expressway reduces this considerably. Less than two hours after leaving the capital we had arrived and were trundling our bags to Jasmine hotel. When you are travelling on a budget, the Jasmine hotel is the sort of hotel you end up at. 

On the way to the hotel my spirits immediately lifted. Vang Vieng had the vibe that was missing in Vientiane. Lots of travellers wandering about. Cafes full of digital nomads on their laptops, and first time travellers updating their travel journals. It did appear that the demographic was about 30 years younger than me. If you can’t beat them, join them. Due to a scheduling issue, which I’ll touch on later, we were only here for two nights but would have happily extended. The Jasmine hotel was friendly, and if we look past the free breakfast, the balcony that provided us with amazing sunset views would have been enough to keep us in town.

Vang Vieng gained notoriety for the “tubing” activities that backpackers flocked here for. After a few deaths, and many near misses, the government clamped down heavily on this in 2012. Plying young people with alcohol and sending them down a fast flowing river on an inner tube suddenly seemed like a very bad idea. 

Diversification followed and now Vang Vieng is a hub for many activities such as hot air ballooning. Cycling. Rock climbing. Kayaking. And still a bit of tubing, of the more sober variety. The tourist numbers that dwindled after the 2012 tubing clampdown have started climbing again and once more there are new hotels being built to accommodate them. 

A Thai German serving schnitzels in Laos

There are some great food options in Vang Vieng and over the two nights we had a good Thai meal, and a schnitzel. A very good schnitzel I might add. From a Thai gentleman who had spent time in Germany and brought the schnitzel to Laos. His “restaurant” was simply his front garden, and his “kitchen” was a simple outside stove, but the schnitzel and potatoes he cooked up were delicious. If you do find yourself in Vang Vieng be sure to look up Viman, the Thai German. 

Luang Prabang

After Vang Vieng we were off to Luang Prabang. By bus. Or so we thought. When the young man on reception at the Jasmine told us the road was unsealed and it could take up to 7 hours to get there, we agreed with him that the train would be a much better option. 

The Chinese had recently finished building a train line from Laos to China and we were going to be one of the first to try it out. I had hoped to be on the bullet train that I saw advertised everywhere. Alas, we weren’t. However, the train was still very new, very busy, and fast. We were in Luang Prabang in under 2 hours. Met outside the oversize train station (as part of the train line the Chinese had built brand new, enormous train stations) by dozens of white minivans, to transport us all the 20 minutes into Luang Prabang town. 

Luang Prabang turned out to be one of my favourite places in Southeast Asia. Small. Friendly. And full of Buddhist temples. There is a peace and serenity to the town that holds a stillness. It helped that we were in a beautiful hotel. After the S2 in Vientiane and the Jasmine in Vang Vieng we slightly increased the travel budget got a whole lot more quality. 

Parasol Blanc hotel in Luang Prabang

Parasol Blanc was welcoming. And stylish. Set in large leafy grounds with a swimming pool and a breakfast area located in the middle of a UNESCO protected lotus pond. Talking of the breakfast, it was excellent. We even had a menu of options to choose from, all freshly prepared by the Indian chef who popped out each morning to have a chat. 

In Luang Prabang we strolled along the Mekong River, having a lazy lunch whilst watching the longtail boats sail past. We visited many of the beautiful Buddhist temples. One day we hired an electric scooter, my first time riding one, and visited the Kuang Si waterfalls, having a refreshing swim in the gorgeous pools. Kuang Si waterfalls are a must visit, it is such a beautiful area. On the way back to Luang Prabang, fretting slightly over the remaining battery life of the scooter (it turns out “range anxiety” is real), we stopped for lunch at a stunning location. Set amongst rice paddie fields, and very reminiscent of Bali, we had a simple and delicious lunch.

Importantly, after a lot of travel, we had some down time. Lazing around the hotel pool and having a cool dip. Being the only ones around the pool it felt like we were in our own private villa. We swam. Read. And I took the opportunity to catch up on the travel blog. 

Trekking with elephants at MandaLao Elephant Conservation Park

However, the highlight of our stay in Luang Prabang, and quite possibly of the whole trip through Southeast Asia was the day we spent at MandaLao Elephant Conservation park. Reading about this a few weeks ago we knew we had to visit. And when we booked, the only day that was available to us meant we would have to cut short an earlier part of the trip by a day. Hence the two days only in Vang Vieng.

To say it was worth the sacrifice would be an understatement. We had a full day trekking with two beautiful elephants. MandaLao work to provide elephant friendly interactions and their elephants, they have 10, have been rescued from terrible conditions. Either from logging factories or from the very outdated, and very harmful elephant camps that still allow the practice of riding the elephants.

As we now know, this causes irreversible damage to the spines of the elephants, not to mention the emotional trauma they are surely being put through. There is no riding at MandaLao. No chains. Just freedom to roam, and hundreds of bananas. The team work hard to educate the other elephant camps in Laos but elephants are so ingrained in the culture of this small Southeast Asian country that it will take a generation or two to change the mindest.

I was sad to leave Luang Prabang and sad to be leaving Laos. The country is truly beautiful. It feels a lot more rustic than its neighbours. And even though there are a lot of travellers, the numbers are a lot lower than other places we have visited. This is good. This helps retain a little of its “undiscovered” charm. Long may Laos remain this way.

Whilst tinged with sadness at leaving Laos, we were both very excited to get back to a country we have visited previously. The Land of Smiles. And fabulous food. Thailand would soon be country 21 of our world trip.

Heading south from Chiang Mai to Phuket

We loved our time in Chiang Mai. Our first visit and we were really impressed. Now, we were headed to a place that Time Magazine had just announced is in their “Top 50 Places in the World” list. Our second from this list, after visiting the beguiling Luang Prabang in Laos. Our short flight from Chiang Mai would have us landing in the pearl of Thailand.

Phuket is Thailand’s largest, and undoubtedly, most popular island. Who knew it was so popular with Russians escaping from the mess and turmoil that Putin has inflicted upon them? Russians visit Phuket in larger numbers than any other visiting visitors, and I read that many are now simply out staying their visas, and not returning to Russia. Their presence is felt in Phuket, from the menus that are translated from Thai into Russian, to the property signs that are enticing them to put down roots in Phuket.

Pool Life at T-Villa in Phuket

We didn’t plan to put down roots but we were staying on Phuket for six nights and we chose to stay at T-Villa. Only 10 minutes from Phuket Airport, we had a poolside villa and we were only a short walk from Nai Yang beach. It sounded like the perfect proposition. And so it proved to be. Lazy mornings at the beach. Chilled afternoons in the pool by the villa. And great evenings eating, barefoot, on the beach.  We have previously shared our love for Thai food and we were spoilt for choice. I even got a freshly prepared mango sticky rice. Oh my, it was so delicious.

We hired a scooter for a couple of days and headed down the busy, and smoggy, highway to Phuket old town, a ride of some 45 minutes. The town is in great shape. Some enterprising locals have revitalised many of the old shophouses and they now house excellent coffee shops and restaurants. The buildings are bright, colourful, and exude character. And, most importantly, serve great coffee.

Taking advantage of having the scooter we also explored some of the beaches that hug this wonderful coastline. Banana Beach was once a bit of a secret but the amount of scooters parked at the top of the hill told me that the cat was now firmly out of the bag. Nai Thon beach was a great place to park up and have lunch by the side of the ocean. Once we had made sense of the Russian menu.

The Boxing Day tsunami

It was hard to leave Phuket. It is a wonderful place to visit. But we had a minivan booked to take us a couple of hours up the coast. We left the island of Phuket and headed to the small town of Khao Lak. A town that has seen unimaginable disaster. On Boxing Day in 2004, an earthquake in Sumatra, Indonesia, caused a tsunami that affected many Indian Ocean countries. The full death count is estimated to be in the range of 250,000 lives. Khao Lak, a very small community, suffered immensely. Official estimates are that approximately 4000 people lost their lives. Unofficial estimates have the figure much higher, around 10,000, as there were many undocumented Burmese migrants who disappeared.

The community of Khao Lak has recovered and is once again thriving, with many beachside resorts catering for high numbers of tourists. We had a hotel by the beach, and once again we quickly settled into a slow pace of life. Leisurely morning breakfast and coffee, strolls along the beach, and then the days spent reading around the pool. I may have even experienced my first ever water slide, much to the surprise of an incredulous Victoria. I can’t recall having been on one in the past. Whilst it wasn’t the largest water slide in the world, it gave me great enjoyment. I felt 50 years old again.

Having fun with the locals

I also get great enjoyment from interacting with the locals. As a tourist in Asia you soon get used to the refrain of “where are you from?” When I replied that we live in Australia, all we got back, every time, was “G’day, mate, got any kangaroos?” Victoria, tiring of the fake Aussie accents, tried something new one day, wondering what the locals would reply if we said England. It may seem dated to our younger readers, but we got the reply of “lovely, jubbly.” Who knew Only Fools and Horses was so popular in Asia?

Krabi town was our next port of call. And it wasn’t as we expected, which often happens when travelling. I had images of a town like Chiang Mai in my mind. And we got somewhere a lot more like Vientiane, Laos. Krabi was not as vibrant as we expected. That said, after a few days exploring we did find things to love about it. And, something we definitely didn’t.

On a relaxing stroll through the mangrove forest we came across a group of small monkeys. They scattered, peacefully, when we were on the way in to the forest. This was probably their strategy. Because, when we tried to leave, things got nasty. It appears they had appointed a “bouncer” and this piece of work was determined not to let us pass. Now, I have heard these tales of unfriendly swans, and I am sure a big duck can be quite scary. But wait until you have faced off with a troop of snarling, teeth baring, monkeys, lunging at you. I had to use my water bottle as a sword to fight them off. There was no way out. We were trapped. Thankfully, we walked deeper into the forest and found a path, which took us through a small village, and back to the main road.

Much friendlier was the “9th House” guesthouse. A simple, clean place on the edge of town. Nearby we discovered Much & Mellow, serving some excellent coffee, and even better pain au chocolats. The Friday night markets provided us with some great fun, having a range of street food for dinner, and watching the local musicians whilst we sipped our cold beers. As with a lot of places around the world, Thailand has legalised cannabis, and it is hard to avoid the unmistakable whiff of people smoking joints. I am not sure whether it was the buzz off the happy hour beers, or from second hand cannabis smoke, but we had a great evening.

One of the highlights of any stay in Krabi is getting a long boat to Railay Beach. Only a 15 minute ride from the town of Ao Nang, Railay Beach is quite stunning, if somewhat crowded. A victim of its own success. 

Koh Phi Phi island, both of them

As we moved on we were to visit another such place. Phi Phi island is a small, dumbbell shaped island that is now overrun with development. So much so that the small island struggles to manage the waste of sewerage that so many visitors produce. We visited the island, Phi Phi Don, on a snorkelling trip and a quick walk around the island rubber stamped our decision not to stay on the island. The pungent stench of sewerage is pervasive. 

If it is good enough for Leo Di Caprio…

It was whilst being based on the island of Koh Lanta that we did the snorkelling trip. We got to visit the smaller of the Phi Phi islands, Lee. Lee is home to Maya Bay, made famous by the film, “The Beach”, starring Leo Di Caprio. At one time so overrun with tourists, it was closed down for a period and is open once again, under rather strict measures. Swimming in the bay is no longer allowed and is policed by over zealous guards tooting their shrill whistles continuously. Mooring the boat off the island did allow for Victoria to indulge in her great passion for snorkelling. Back on dry land, later in the day, she also got to indulge in another passion. She had a Thai massage, despite claiming beforehand she wouldn’t due to the pain they put you under. Bending you in two and cracking every knuckle in her body.

Koh Lanta is yet another great island and place to stay in Thailand. We had a rather rustic bungalow for four nights, managed by the very friendly Ron. The bungalows were set around a small pool and were located in a prime beachfront location. We settled into a rhythm rather easily. Morning walks, barefoot, along the beach. Breakfast. Then a spot of relaxing in the sun catching up on our books, or the latest podcasts we had downloaded. Life was tough for a while.

Koh Lipe, the Thai Maldives

Things continued in the same vein on the island of Koh Lipe, a 3 hour boat ride from Koh Lanta. We spent a little more on our accommodation, staying at the excellent Ananya resort. For the 83rd bed of the whole trip we thought we deserved some comfort. Koh Lipe is a tiny island. Referred to as the “Maldives of Thailand”. I haven’t been to the Maldives, but if it is anything like Koh Lipe, I am up for a visit.

For such a small island it certainly packs in bags of charm, and many great places to eat and drink. As with all the west coast of Thailand, one of the simple pleasures is getting a sundowner on the beach.

Koh Lipe was our last stop on what has been an outstanding trip through Thailand. You have probably gathered that we enjoyed slowing down. Long walks on the beach. And drinks watching the sunset. Believe me, Thailand is hard place to leave, emotionally.

Onto Malaysia, country number 22

Physically leaving was easier. Passing through passport control, literally a hut on the beach, we boarded the boat to Langkawi Island in Malaysia. From the makeshift jetty on the beach, all our bags got crammed on a long tail boat. It looked as though it would sink under the weight and me wondering whether we would ever see them again when we arrived in Malaysia