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First impressions from week 1 in Perth

March 27, 2020 by Fran 1 Comment

New chapter. Goodbye Sydney, hello Perth

Hello again. How are we all holding up? Still looking after yourself, and each other? Good, it is important we all show the best side of humanity. I keep saying this, and I will keep repeating it, “this too shall pass”. It may not feel like it now. Especially if you are still torturing yourself by watching the news. But, it will pass, and we will all come out the other side. Stronger.

What is happening with us? Well, this will not come as a surprise to those of you reading from Western Australia, but it is bloody hot over here. We are in autumn and the sun shines a lot. This is probably linked to the heat. Perfect blue skies in the morning are making for very pleasant runs in the local park. In my head I am still on holiday, so I am loving a cold beer in the afternoon, and a bottle of excellent local wine in the evening. However, this does mean that we have to keep our exercise up.

The weather forecast from a sunny autumn day in Perth, WA. — Must remember the sunscreen!

As with the rest of our fellow Australians, we have been told not to travel. Not overseas. Not inter state. Not even within state. This means we have had to start looking for somewhere to live as a home base. Apartment hunting in the current crisis is VERY different to how it was. My first experience in Sydney was of hordes turning up for a 15 minutes slot. Barging and shoving each other as we all tried to get around the cramped apartments the quickest, so we knew whether we wanted to press our, pre-prepared, applications on the real estate agent.

Social distancing at Cottesloe Beach, Perth. — Social distancing at Cottesloe Beach

Now, we have virtual viewings. Try getting your head around that. We also have viewings in real life. Considering the current climate, I had thought that we would be the only ones hunting for somewhere to live. Not so. Some apartments we had identified as potentials turn out to have been rented out to people who have committed without even seeing the property in real life. We now have a few viewings lined up and hopefully we can get somewhere very soon. We only have 3 days left in our current AirBnB so the clock is ticking.

Excellent coffee from Chu Bakery in Perth.

Probably more important than finding somewhere to live is finding the best coffee. One of the very first jobs when moving to a new neighbourhood is finding who serves the best caffeine. Being in Australia, I know this is never going to be a problem. We are always spoilt for choice and this proves to be the case here in Perth. Two that I have discovered and can highly recommend are “Chu Bakery”, with its excellent selection of croissants and doughnuts. And “Engine Room Espresso”, with its next level coffee, and tasty “schmear” topped bagels.

Talking of the doughnuts from Chu Bakery, a word of warning if you do as we did, and choose to eat them across the road, in Hyde Park. Remain vigilant. Keep your eyes open. And eat your doughnut surreptitiously. Otherwise you could be in danger of suffering the same fate as me. After just a couple of bites, as I was savouring the soft fluffy doughnut, having a tantalising taste of the strawberry jam, I felt a rush of wind and a nip on my finger. Before I knew what had happened, I was looking at my now empty hand. And perched high above us, a Kookaburra trying to eat a doughnut that was twice the size of its head.

A doughnut from Chu Bakery in Perth. — What I had before I was mugged

We are halfway through our first week in Perth, and at the time of writing, we are not in lockdown, as many of you are. Yes, all the bars and restaurants are closed. All the gyms are closed. But, importantly, the bottle shops remain open so no need to panic buy booze. The restaurants and cafes have pivoted to a full takeaway model, offering both pickup up and delivery. What this now means is that the market is saturated and I worry that it will only be a matter of time before a few are closing their doors for good.

Times like these do highlight the phenomenon of “unintended consequences”. For example, I have read stories from around the world where animals that usually rely on tourists for food, such as the deers in the Japanese city of Nara, are now venturing out of the parks in search of the humans, and their food. And in terms of jobs. Whilst many are being made redundant as the economy starts collapsing, there has been a massive upsurge of food delivery cyclists on the streets around Perth. I have even found myself checking out the prices of e-bikes in case I need to start bringing in some money in the short term.

One thing we have discovered is that Joe Wicks has branched out into online PE classes in the UK. Yes, I know, these are supposed to be for kids, but with no gym membership, beggars can’t be choosers. So, at 5pm local time here in Perth we will be tuning in!

Margaret River, and why you should visit

July 12, 2020 by Fran 7 Comments

Heading South from Perth

Less than 3 hours after having breakfast in Perth, we were driving through Yalingup in the Margaret River region. We had a little time before our first wine tasting of the day so we headed west off Caves Road, driving the short distance to the sea and called in at Canal Rocks. Our first glimpse of this beautiful coastline. Passing Cape Lavender cafe on the way we made a mental note to try and check out their famous afternoon tea. Being a sucker for a good scone, and always on the search for the best high tea in Australia, we would strive to call in over the weekend.

Canal Rocks in Margaret River, more than wine — First sight of the sea, at Canal Rocks

Time to taste what Margaret River is all about

Thoughts of scones pushed aside, at 12.30pm we sat down to enjoy what we really came to Margaret River for. Wine. This was our first visit to Domaine Naturaliste and we were booked in for a seated tasting and a charcuterie board. Owned by Bruce Dukes, a contract winemaker in the Margaret River region for over 30 years, Domaine Naturaliste is a relatively new cellar door with a vineyard that was only purchased in 2018.

Margaret River wine and the Domaine Naturaliste cellar door — Domaine Naturaliste

We sampled 6 excellent wines, with me favouring the three whites we had. We didn’t have to wait long before making our first purchase of the weekend, taking a “Sauvage” chardonnay and the “Floris” Sauvignon Blanc. Both fresh, with well balanced acidity, and subtle hints of oak.

Voyager Estate, a hint of South Africa

Next up was Voyager Estate, again for a seated tasting. Voyager is a grand vineyard housed in some beautifully tended gardens. This was our second visit and we had previously been struck by the similarities with the cellar doors we visited in Franschhoek, South Africa. This was explained when we read the information on the original owner who garnered inspiration from his many trips to South Africa.

Margaret River vineyards and cellar doors, this is Voyager Estate. — Margaret River, or Franschhoek?

The tasting at Voyager was for 3 wines, choosing from an extensive list of options. I went for the Chardonnay (becoming a firm favourite), and a Chenin Blanc (here again is the South African influence), and finished with a new release Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ordinarily a self confessed red wine fan, my palate definitely leant to the white grape. The Chenin Blanc was a standout, and I quickly added to our day’s wine collection. Vik was quite taken by one of the Cabernet Sauvignons, which she slipped into the bag, before I realised it was $81 a bottle!

No visit to Voyager Estate is complete without a walk around the magnificently manicured gardens, stopping to take in the delicate aromas of the resplendent roses.

Something a little stronger than Margaret River wine

Margaret River is more than just wine, as good as that wine is. As a premier gourmet destination you will find something for everyone. Tucked away off the main Bussel Highway, a short distance from the Margaret River township, is the Margaret River Distilling Company.

Originally started up in Albany, in the state’s Southern region, the distillery’s outpost in Margaret River provides both food and drink. Before making a purchase, which I consider compulsory each time I visit, try a tasting paddle of either the award winning gin or whisky. My love of a good whisky nightcap is no secret and I couldn’t leave without a bottle of Limeburner’s Port Cask single malt. I was already imagining later that evening, sat silently on the deck, star gazing, sipping a wee dram.

Beerfarm, a must visit

But before then, as the sun started serenely setting to our left, we headed the 20 minutes north, back up the Bussel Highway to somewhere that had been on my “must visit” list for quite some time. Located on 80 acres of farmland, housed in an old dairy farm in Metricup, the Beerfarm comes universally recommended. It was time to find out for ourselves what all the fuss was about.

Beerfarm in the Margaret River — Ready for a pint of craft beer

A large open space, with a bar at one end and a kitchen housed by the old cow sheds, Beerfarm ticks all the boxes. A wide range of craft beers on tap, of which the Pale Ale is a personal favourite, and a kitchen slinging out portions of meat that have to be seen to be believed. Friday is “steak night” up on the ‘Farm and we ordered the tomahawk. Sipping our beers, looking out across the paddock, as the sun slowly turned the skies all colours of red, we were in for a surprise.

And this was the surprise. I was assured that it was cow, and not dinosaur, but good lord, have you ever seen anything like it?

The amazing Tomahawk steak served up at Margaret River’s Beerfarm — The Tomahawk steak at Beerfarm

We will never finish this, we mumbled to the waiter. As the empty plates were cleared away we wondered out loud whether we still had room for desert.

Day 2 dawns in Margaret River

Our second morning started the way many of our mornings away start. With bacon and egg butties at home before heading out on the short drive to Prevelly, a surf spot just up from Gnarabup beach. In Margaret River this is often our morning walk, along the sea, amongst the sand dunes, under bright blue skies and a mild winter breeze.

Gnarabup Beach in Margaret River — Gnarabup Beach

No visit to this area, and specifically to Gnarabup is complete without a visit to the White Elephant cafe for coffee. A local’s favourite, the “Elie” is rammed each day with hardy swimmers warming up with their post swim brew. Hordes of hungry locals feast on the breakfast and lunch dishes whipped up but today we were only here for drinks. One of the joys of life is to get a very good strong latte and sit overlooking the beach and sea, taking in views that stretch all the way up to Prevelly beach.

Coffee with a view, at White Elephant cafe, Gnarabup. — My happy place

Xanadu the vineyard, not the song

Suitably caffeinated it was time to move onto something a little stronger, and to head to our first tasting of the day. Another new vineyard, today we were off to Xanadu, a place we can’t pass without bursting into song. Seriously, it is impossible. Xanadu wines turns out to have the longest drive way of any vineyard I have ever visited. At one point I thought we were going to end up back in Perth. But the drive was worth it, entering a cracking cellar door and sampling some more of the world class wine on offer in this stunning region.

Like our cousins across the Tasman, Australia is now charging for tastings as the Kiwis do. I understand why, and chatting to staff at the cellar doors they explain it is to stop the many tour buses that disperse tourists at cellar doors who then taste a lot of wine, taking up lots of time from the staff, and then leave empty handed. It does make sense. Making wine is an expensive business. With tasting fees negated with any purchase of wine, we are seldom impacted, very rarely leaving a cellar door empty handed. And today was no exception.

One of the best lunches in Margaret River

When in Margaret River, one of the real pleasures, besides trying all the excellent wine, is having lunch at one of the vineyard restaurants. There are lots to choose from but today we were returning to the highly acclaimed “Rustico” at the Hay Shed Hill vineyard.

Originally starting out in Rockingham, the Margaret River outpost of Rustico serves up a 5 course degustation menu. From the Abrolhos Island scallops that are first up, to the best ever (really, and I have had a LOT) roast pork belly, and ending with the desert plate, every mouthful was an absolute delight. Being the skipper for the day I finished on a strong coffee, whilst Vik rounded off a great afternoon with a Lady Marmalade gin cocktail.

Cape Mentelle

With one eye on how much wine we had tasted, and knowing we still had to drive, we decided to return to the cottage and leave the car. Earlier, we had discovered that Cape Mentelle, another vineyard we had yet to visit, was literally across the road from where we were staying.

Strolling back along the eucalyptus perfumed back road, towards Cape Mentelle, we soon discovered that whilst the entrance was across the road, and in sight, what we couldn’t see was the subsequent 1km walk to the cellar door. With not long till closing, we needed to get marching if we were to get a tasting, and get back out before the large iron gates closed at 5pm.

I long ago stopped extolling the virtues of the wine from Margaret River. It is no surprise to me that Margaret River produces over 20 per cent of Australia’s premium wines. Ever since Perth cardiologist, Tom Cullity, planted the first vines at Vasse Felix in 1967, Margaret River has continued to blossom into a world leading wine region. And the drops grown and produced at Cape Mentelle are no exception. Another couple of bottles were added to our collection.

The evening saw us relaxing at the cottage, with a charcuterie board and a bottle of Chenin Blanc, sat on the deck as the sky grew dark. Watching the kangaroos going about their evening rituals, and with us even spotting the odd shooting star. A great end to a great day.

Reflecting on another great Margaret River weekend

It is always with a tinge of sadness that I sip my coffee on the morning of departure from this beautiful region. And it was no different this time. Sat in a silence only broken by birdsong, watching the dozens of kangaroos grazing in the paddock in front of me, I reflected on what makes this area so special. So restorative.

The friendly locals, kangaroos in the paddock at Margaret River — What are you looking at?

It is the slow nature of life. The hardworking locals who produce some of the worlds best food and drink. It is the beautiful scenery. The Indian Ocean on one side, lapping against some of the most picturesque beaches you will ever see, and the acres of forest that separate the sea from the township of Margaret River.

However, the sadness I feel about leaving is balanced against the gratitude I feel to be able to share in some of this magical place, and also happiness that I know it won’t be long before we return to Margaret River.

And we never did get back to Cape Lavender but we did get our home baked scones, calling in at Berry Farm who provided us with a takeaway option to keep us going on the drive home.

365 Days In Perth

April 2, 2021 by Fran Leave a Comment

Falling like dominoes

My fingers hovered nervously above the keyboard. As international borders started closing like the falling of dominoes, putting a hold on our long planned for dream trip around the world, Australia’s internal borders were closing in around us. Our options were getting shorter by the hour.

Fuelled by the champagne we had drowned our sorrows in, we rapidly made a plan b. Or was that plan c, or even plan d? I had lost count by this point. Scanning the Qantas app we found 2 seats available, flying out of Sydney the day after. What did we have to lose? All our possessions were in storage. We had nowhere to live, having vacated our apartment. And we had no jobs.

Little did we know what lay ahead on the flight to Perth — Little did we know what lay ahead

So it was that just 24 hours later we found ourselves settling into an Air BnB some 3,900kms away. Perth was to be where we would spend the next chapter of our lives, a chapter we didn’t know the length of. To be honest, a chapter we still don’t know the length of. What follows is the highlights of our 365 days in Perth.

We were to be sandgropers for the foreseeable future. We had a new mantra to learn, “west is best”, something the proud residents of Western Australia would not let us forget.

March 2020

Arriving in late March, we had booked ourselves into an Air BnB for the week, just to find our feet. We were to end up staying at three different places over the first 3 weeks. With the COVID restrictions we had to self cater and only treat ourselves to a takeaway once a week. It did feel very strange not being able to sit in for breakfast, lunch or dinner but many cafes and restaurants did a great job in switching their business models at very short notice. The word of the moment was “pivot”. There was a very noticeable increase of Uber delivery cyclists up and down the streets of Perth.

On the move in Perth — On the move, again

To be honest, I thought the Perth chapter was going to be very temporary. So we were keeping a close eye on our travel funds. I resisted even looking at what jobs were available. Why would I want a job when I would shortly be off travelling the world?

Thankfully, one of us is pragmatic and before long I was convinced that I needed to pivot. I started putting my toe in the water to see what was out there. And it wasn’t pretty. COVID had emptied city centre office blocks and with the uncertainty, many organisations had put a hold on recruitment. Through this time I got some tremendous support from various people. People who I didn’t previously know that well. That said, there was a point where I was looking in the windows of bike shops wondering which trusty steed would carry me and a large Uber food delivery bag. That would have been the pivot of all pivots.

April 2020

Still without a job, we managed to secure our first rental property. A 2 bedroom furnished apartment in East Perth. A great location by the Swan River which allowed us to keep up our regular exercise, running around Optus Stadium, whilst we couldn’t afford a gym membership.

Optus Stadium on the banks of the Swan River, Perth — Optus Stadium, on the banks of the Swan River

As I continued to try and find work, I was using the down time to catch up on some books that had so far eluded me. I managed to read Mandela’s “Long Walk to Freedom” with a deeper connection, as last year we had visited Robben Island where he was incarcerated for 18 years of his 27 year sentence. George Eliot’s “Middlemarch” was another massive tome that I finally finished with a sense of achievement and enjoyment at the stories she (Mary Ann Evans) weaved.

May 2020

It was with great relief that one of us finally got a job. Victoria started bringing home the bacon with her first job in Perth. No, she didn’t become a butcher! It’s a metaphor. Never mind.

With some money coming in, and the easing of COVID restrictions, we finally managed to start eating out again. Our first “proper” night out was at Balthazar restaurant in the city. And what a fabulous meal. With a great bottle of red it was a real reminder of what it means to have these experiences in our lives.

I kept myself busy by studying and passing the exam for the Level 1 wine exam with WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust). I found this very enjoyable and appreciated the deeper connection I have with wine through knowing more about its history and the different wine regions of the world.

June 2020

Hurrah! I got a job. And a good one. I started working at Synergy as a team coach, on a 6 month contract. My early days were all worked remotely, as was the interview and onboarding process, but it wasn’t long before we were allowed back into the office. It was good to once again have some semblance of normality to hold on to.

And talking of normality, with two incomes now coming into the house we upped the occasions we treat ourselves to meals out at restaurants. The food scene is very good in Perth and it wasn’t long before we started creating a list of places we wanted to visit. The list continues to grow.

July 2020

July heralded a massive milestone with Victoria becoming an Australian citizen. Unfortunately no guests were allowed into the ceremony so whilst I couldn’t witness the actual moment, I was waiting patiently outside to whisk her off for champagne and a celebratory curry.

On the self development front I trained and became a Mental Health First Aider. This is a topic that I feel is so important that the more people we can train, the better the world will be. Thankfully, the stigma of talking about mental health does seem to be lifting a little and I will continue to do my piece, however small.

Regular readers of the blog will know that this time of year always brings “Xmas in July”. This is an event often celebrated by expats in Australia. As July is the “coldest” month of winter, we dig out our xmas jumpers and celebrate the festive season. A good excuse for a big xmas lunch. This year we celebrated at Durty Nelly’s Irish bar in the city.

xmas in july at Durty Nelly's — Xmas in July at Durty Nelly’s

Having not visited for a while, it was time to have a weekend away to Margaret River. Three days in a region that will forever be my happy place was topped off with an excellent lunch at the ever reliable Rustico restaurant at Hay Shed Hill winery.

August 2020

Imagine the joy I felt when I realised I lived on the doorstep of a whiskey distillery. Whipper Snapper, Perth’s urban whiskey distillery in fact. I wrote about it here. We had a tour and with only one of us enjoying whiskey it turned out to be a great day for me.

One thing we both enjoy is high tea. You may have seen my search for Sydney’s best high tea. This time we were trying out the delights at the Lobby Lounge bar at Crown Towers. I am pleased to report that Perth has a strong high tea game.

Gin high tea at the Lobby Lounge, Crown Towers, Perth — Gin high tea at the Lobby Lounge, Crown Towers

Hiring a car for the weekend we headed up to the Edge Retreat for a staycation in Lower Chittering, a short drive from the city. This truly was off grid, with the eco property built right on the edge of a bluff so that it appeared to be at “the end of the world”.

Outdoor bath at The Edge Retreat, Lower Chittering, Perth — Outdoor bath at The Edge Retreat, Lower Chittering

September 2020

September saw us once again making the short journey to the Margaret River region, this time staying at the “Tack Room” in Cowaramup. Another great find on Air BnB. As well as the beautiful farm we were staying on our host also had a house in Cornwall. Find me two better locations in the world. I’ll wait…

You may know of my love for burgers. You may also know of the “best burger” spreadsheet I have. I may have to retire the spreadsheet as we found quite possibly the best cheeseburger ever, at the Old Faithful in the city. Just look at this beauty.

Double cheeseburger at the Old Faithful in Perth CBD — Take. My. Money.

On the subject of food (I am never far away from it), we had a visit to the historic Rose and Crown in Guildford. Reported to be the oldest operating pub in WA, they do some of the best Sunday lunches on the planet.

On the professional front I completed Level 1 of my Organisational Coaching course. This was an intense 3 day Zoom workshop. And still. it was highly engaging, and more energising than I expected.

October 2020

The staycations continued in October with our first stay at the Ritz-Carlton, located in the revitalised Elizabeth Quay. The views over the Swan River were almost as exquisite as the food we had for dinner at the in house restaurant, “Hearth”.

In very exciting news we moved into the new house, in the vibrant suburb of Mt Hawthorn, a short distance from the city. Moving from apartment living, to a house for the first time in over 10 years. We now have a front and back garden to chill in on long, lazy Sunday afternoons.

After a busy day of moving in we found a local curry house and had a great evening talking about the plans we wanted to make for this exciting chapter.

Moving onwards and upwards, Victoria started a new role at HBF, the largest health fund provider in the west. The bacon was upgraded to gammon.

November 2020

Year round, Perth often has festivals and events happening across the city. The start of November saw us heading over to South Perth in the rain for our first “Beer and beef” festival, a combination we could not miss. Despite the rain there was a good turn out and we got to sample some great beers to go with the mouth watering Tony Roma ribs.

Needing a staycation we jumped on the train to the port city of Fremantle. We spent a night at the very European looking Port Mill bed and breakfast. Dinner saw us moving across the world to Asia and we had a delightful tasting menu at Tonic & Ginger. Somewhere we are certain to return to.

Margaret River was again on the agenda to celebrate Victoria’s birthday. A private wine tour with Grape Escape had us checking off some more of the over 200 wineries in the region.

December 2020

December brings summer and a close down of most workplaces as people take an extended Xmas break. We took the opportunity for an epic 2 week road trip from Perth all the way up to Exmouth and back. Something I wrote about here.

It is these kinds of trips that really bring home how big this vast country is. We were often driving for hours on seemingly empty roads. With nothing but red sand and scrub all around us. The occasional road train thunders past, snapping you out of your reverie.

Rottnest Island, just off the coast of Perth used to be the Butlins of Western Australia. No more, with the arrival of the new luxury beach retreat, Samphire. We decided to check it out, spending two nights by the sea. In between lazing around the pool we also took out e-bikes to explore the island, saying hello to the many quokkas that call Rottnest home.

On the work front I must have been doing something right as I was asked to extend my contract for a further 6 months.

January 2021

We had our first real lockdown. A COVID case in the community sent shockwaves through a Perth community that had become very complacent over the last 12 months. The Premier, big dog McGowan, with an election on the horizon, took a very tough stance and enforced a 6 day full lockdown, with the introduction of mandatory masks if you ventured outside the home for one of the official four reasons.

Thankfully, we still managed to have a trip to Margaret River before the lockdown hit. We stayed in a new part of the region for us, a little further south in the charming village of Witchcliffe. The highlight of this trip was the world class lunch at Leeuwin Estate.

February 2021

Thankfully, Perth pulled together, and the COVID case proved to be an isolated incident. With no further community transmission our restrictions were lifted, and less than 2 weeks later we were living the life we had before the snap restrictions.

And with that it was time for another high tea. This one a little different. A cheese and champagne high tea at the Crown Towers resort. Baked Brie was amongst the cheeses that accompanied our flight of champagnes. Decadent? Yes. Enjoyable? Absolutely.

For the first time in a year we once again stepped foot in an airport, and flew to Broome for a holiday at the Cable Beach Club. The whole experience was different to any travel we had previously done. Have a read of our experience here.

March 2021

Closer to home, and without the need for a flight, we had a 2 night staycation at the QT Hotel in the Perth CBD. This was to be the first of two staycations in March, with us also spending a night, finally, at Crown Towers, home of three hotels and Perth’s casino.

We also managed to catch a movie under the stars, just before they ended for the season. It is a great experience, laid under the night sky, on a bean bag, sipping chilled white wine and watching a film.

Professionally, I decided to take my learning to the next level. Having logged well over the mandatory 20 hours of professional coaching, I embarked on level 2 of the organisational coaching course with the Institute of Executive Coaches and Leaders. If you are ever interested to hear more about coaching, and how you can benefit from it, give me a shout.

What is the next chapter?

One year ago we could never have predicted what life had in store for us. Reflecting on our achievements I am proud of us as a couple on what we have achieved. Through adversity, and in a new city, we have adapted to our new surroundings and thrived.

We have explored so much of the vast state of Western Australia, and really got a look at Perth as a city to live in. A very liveable city. A city that continues to expand, with new bars seemingly opening up every second week. The village where we live is so vibrant, with a large Italian population. The weekend just gone we visited an Italian Street Market, which could have been a square in Naples.

As we enter our second year here on the west coast, again we can only speculate what the next 365 days will hold for us. Much as we felt a year ago, we very much hope that global travel becomes top of the agenda. Either way, we will keep you posted.

Come with me to Hobart, Tasmania

August 12, 2018 by Fran 1 Comment

A foodies paradise

I was sitting in the Landscape Restaurant, on the Hobart waterfront, thinking about what my abiding memories would be. What I would take away from this weekend in Tasmania. What would stick long in the memory. As I turned the page on this brief chapter, what would stay with me, what layers would be added to the stratigraphy of my mind?

Tasmania is famed for its food and drink. Having just finished one of the best meals I have ever had, and I don’t say that lightly, the food and drink would be the obvious place to start. The most apparent souvenir leaving Hobart with me would be the extra inches on my waist. Lucky that I paid for extra baggage. Before this trip, I have to be honest, I did not fully appreciate just how good the Tasmanian wines are. And that the whisky industry extends beyond the excellent Lark distillery. I am leaving Hobart educated, satiated, and in proud possession of a stinking hangover.

First impressions

Flying in at lunchtime, by the time we had dropped the bags at our accommodation, the most perfect little cottage found on AirBnB, we headed to the Salamanca Markets. Running each Saturday, through to 3pm, the markets are both a huge tourist attraction, and a great place to support local artisans. Running the length of Salamanca Place, it would be easy to spend a couple of hours browsing the stalls, picking up some food, and maybe a cheeky bar of Tasmanian made fudge for dessert. We seemed to have aquired a habit of collecting fudge from every place we visit. I mean, when I say “collect”, it never usually makes it home with us.

I bought a book, which may not surprise you, from an English author now living in Hobart. Jamie Maslin hitchhiked from Hobart to London. 800 hitchhiking rides. 18 thousand miles. Three continents. 19 countries. I relished the opportunity to talk to anybody crazy enough to do this. Jamie had a stall at the markets, selling signed copies of his book, “The Long Hitch Home”, and I couldn’t resist. I love travel, you may have heard, but I also love supporting authors, knowing the hard work that goes into writing a book.

Rest up a while

When you need to rest your legs, and have a well-earned drink, there are numerous bars in and around Salamanca Place. A personal favourite was The Den. With fire pits both in the bar, and on the terrace, it was a place you could, and we did, idle away a few hours sampling some delicious wines.

The following morning we made our way to the Pigeon Hole on Goulburn Street. A small inner city cafe, with an unassuming little menu that exudes confidence, the breakfast we had won’t be forgotten in a hurry. Check out the menu for yourself, it won’t take you long. But the food they do, they do bloody well. Baked eggs, with a slight drizzle of olive oil, served with a couple of chunks of bread, baked in-house to perfection, and a side of bacon which was honestly more akin to a gammon steak. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. Did I mention the coffee? I usually do. Excellent.

Landscape restaurant

Then there was Landscape Restaurant, which is an experience in itself. I wasn’t sure of the provenance of the restaurant’s name, but it soon became clear when we were shown to our table. The server asked us if she could tell us a little about both the restaurant, and also the numerous “landscape” pictures lining the wall. Located in the old IXL jam factory, on Hobart’s waterfront, diners at Landscape are surrounded by the iconic art of John Glover. There is an annual celebration of contemporary landscape paintings, with the award of the John Glover Prize. Wander through the restaurant and you can view a selection of past winners.

Being a working harbour, Hobart has some excellent seafood. Whilst you know my weakness for fish & chips, I thought I needed to up my seafood game for this trip. A great evening in the Story Bar, located in Ocean Pier, allowed me the opportunity to sit around a real fire, jig my feet along with the live band, and sample oysters.

Live music, Hobart style, at the Story Bar

What is it about oysters?

Now, not my favourite seafood, I still contend that the ones I had deep-fried, in Queenstown, New Zealand, were the best I have ever had. But, with a drizzle of lemon, I again tried food that I would not naturally gravitate to. Did I enjoy them? I suppose so. This is the thing with oysters, that I find anyway, is what is there to enjoy? Does anybody truly enjoy them? They just kind of slip down your throat. Do you even taste them? If you are a lover of oysters, and I am doing it wrong, please leave me a comment below. I would love to hear from you.

Sunday morning dawned blue. The cloudless sky shone a colour of blue that you only see in winter. We had come prepared, with new wooly hats, and scarves. We are in winter, a lot further south from Sydney, and Hobart had been experiencing some cold days. Whilst we were there, we were lucky to avoid both rain, and the worst of the cold winter days.

MONA – a must visit

Walking off the excesses of the night before, the excellent Tasmanian Cabernet Sauvignon, and nightcap(s) of Lark single malt whisky, we strolled along Sandy Bay Rd, through historic Battery Point, and down Kelly Stairs into Salamanca Place. Did we have time to quickly pop into the esteemed Jackman & McRoss bakery? Alas, not this time. We had a boat to catch.

Arriving at MONA (museum of old and new art) by the museum’s dedicated catamaran, some 30 minutes from Hobart, the first thing that strikes you is the vast amount of rust. Yes, rust. MONA may be more famous for a lot of things, not least for its collection of 151 life-size models of vaginas, but the colours are the first thing that hits you. Yes, you did read that right. Not about the colours. The other thing. There are 151 vaginas lining one very long wall. All true to scale, with varying degrees of hirsuteness, all conveniently displayed at eye level. The museum calls them by their rather vulgar colloquial name, but I don’t think my readers would want to be reading c****s in this family friendly blog. I used to think, “I’ve seen one, I’ve seen them all”. But let me tell you, I looked at all 151 of them, in the name of research, and there were some very different specimens. All very fine specimens, but very different.

However, I am not here to speak about vaginas. Let me get back to where I was. Rust. Or specifically, the colour of rust. Built into the rock face, there is nothing much to see of MONA as you approach it from the water. All you can see is a vast amount of stairs to climb, and vast amounts of rust. Once you climb those stairs, all 99 of them, you are then hit with green. At the top, just where you enter the museum, there is a life-size tennis court that was put there, by demand of the owner. Apparently, the reason was to allow the surrounding glass to reflect the green of the court back to where people were queuing to get in. No, I can’t make any sense of it either. Much like the rest of MONA.

Sandstone hues

The theme of colour continues as you descend the circular staircase, down the four floors into the belly of the museum. Everything is intentionally very industrial. The rust gives way to a colour that I associate not only with Hobart, but with my home city of Sydney too. Sandstone. In the same way that many of the original buildings in Sydney are made from sandstone, the same can be said of Hobart. And can definitely be said about MONA as it is hewn from the sandstone cliff face. Bringing light to the structure, in only the way that sandstone can, it provides a contrast to the dark rust. Add in a very striking, modern bar, and the effect is quite amazing.

The “Void” bar, 4 floors underground, at MONA

In the Posh Pit

Sat in the posh pit, the “VIP” section of the MONA catamaran, returning to Hobart harbour, I was left reflecting on another great visit to the Tasmanian capital. Over quaint little canapes, and a glass of bubbles, amongst some exuberant youngsters, a smile crept over my face. If a town had it all, or at least most of it, Hobart does. Great scenery, and some good treks up Mount Wellington, always hulking in the background, casting its eye on the city. Historic little cottages. Fabulous food, that isn’t restricted to its excellent seafood. And the drink. Or drinks. The range of Tasmanian wines is truly outstanding. Pinots and Cabernets that rival the very best that this wonderful country offers. And I will finish on the whisky. Which is what I did each evening. Whilst Lark may be the distillery that first shone a light on Tassie whiskys, the baton has been well and truly picked up by others. Of the many available, I can personally vouch for Hellyers Road, McHenry, and of course, Lark.

Hobart – what are you waiting for?

Whether you are visiting interstate, or are on holiday from overseas, Hobart is a place that I would highly recommend. Just a short hop from the hubs of Sydney, Melbourne, and Adelaide, yet a world away in many respects. A city that maintains its folksy, small town feel, whilst offering you food and drink experiences you would normally associate with the big cities.

Hobart remains on my list of favourite destinations. What are you waiting for?

Two Years in Perth – What Next?

April 24, 2022 by Fran 11 Comments

Time to plan the next chapter

As we tick over two years in Perth it looks as though we might finally be reinstating our long held dream of travelling the world. The two nights we had booked here in Perth, back in March 2020 have stretched out to take in the whole of 2020, 2021, and now the summer and autumn of 2022.

Perth has been very good to us. And quite possibly the best place we could have ended up through COVID. I managed to secure a role that I have been in the whole time I have been here. I have met new people who have become friends. I found a community. A “collective”. And I have taken my learning journey further than I could have expected when we landed in Perth on that dark night back in March, 2020. On the travel front, we have been busy. We have now travelled the whole length from Esperance in the south, all the way up to Exmouth on the north coast. Not all in one trip, but this is a distance of 2,238kms. That is a lot of long, straight, boring Western Auatralia roads. In fairness, there are also some scenic drives to keep things interesting.

Victoria has had a number of roles, trying out the market in Perth and getting to experience how organisations of differing sizes work over here in the wild, wild West. And it is different. Very different to my experience over in Sydney. Perth feels like a big town. With a gaping hole for its centre. The CBD is bereft of life with most people choosing to live in sprawling suburbs, north and south of the river. Yet, as we speak, sprawling apartment towers continue to be built. There is more tumbleweed than people.

The bright lights of Elizabeth Quay — The Bright Lights of Elizabeth Quay

Elizabeth Quay has been transformed over the years I have been coming to Perth, and it is currently in the middle of a development boom. In a few years from now, when the buildings are complete, I believe Elizabeth Quay has the potential to rival Circular Quay in Sydney for nightlife. This is if Elizabeth Quay finds its identity. Perth has come a long way over the years. It could go even further and be a destination that truly attracts overseas travellers away from the glitz of Sydney Harbour, and the 24 hour lifestyle of cosmopolitan Melbourne.

Margaret River, our “happy place”

Over the last two years you may have worked out that our hearts have been stolen by the beautiful Margaret River region. Already our favourite place in Australia, it will forever have a special place in our hearts after we eloped there and got married in the forest last year. The food scene down there is out of this world. Margaret River produces Australia’s premium wines. The scenery is second to none. And the coastline is better than you will find anywhere, however far around the globe you travel. A true “happy place” for us both.

Gnarabup Beach, Margaret River — Gnarabup, Margaret River

And whilst we have found our spiritual home over the last two years, we are now planning to head off and explore the world. After working out the best time to head off travelling we have now shared with our employers that we will be leaving at the end of May. The first month of our travels will be mostly in WA, as we say farewell to some of our favourite places. Yes, this will include Margaret River. And Fremantle. This gritty port city, 30 minutes south of Perth, also has something special. A real vibe that keeps drawing us back time and again. Breweries. Cool neighbourhoods. Great restaurants. And a community feel.

Time to explore the world

Leaving city life behind we will be heading to an island. Specifically, Hamilton Island. A place we love and were due to visit last December, to celebrate my milestone birthday. COVID put paid to this and so in June we will be finally doing this trip. Staying at the luxurious Qualia, on the island, we will be doing our utmost to celebrate my belated birthday. Picture, champagne and cocktails. Side trips to Noosa and Brisbane will lead us into leaving Australian shores for the first time in three years.

Our initial plan was to cover South East Asia for a few months first but this would mean we wouldn’t get to the UK until the height of winter. If you know what winter in the UK is like you will appreciate why this is not a great option. It was 13 degrees in Perth this morning and I worried whether I had enough layers on. Our compromise is Singapore for a few nights, then a stop somewhere new for me. Dubai is a place I have never been to and I will be having my second stay in a Caesar’s Palace hotel.

July will see us hit the shores of the UK for the first time since 2019. Without a time constraint we will have the opportunity to slow down a little. Reconnect with family and friends. And take the chance to do a little sightseeing. I am also starting to realise that the football season will have started again by this point and I would love to get to a match. A new manager. A clear out of players. And United might once again be able to provide some excitement. All Mrs C wants is a very big gammon steak. Let’s hope we can both get what we want.

Deja Vu – seriously, are we leaving Australia, again?

June 16, 2022 by Fran 5 Comments

Leaving Sydney

Monday, March 23, 2020, was the day we left Sydney. The day we were due to embark on our travel sabbatical. Two years of saving. Allowing us to explore new countries, and to immerse ourselves in different cultures. We didn’t spend as much as we expected.

We got as far as Perth before the world closed in on itself. Countries took a protectionist approach to the burgeoning pandemic. Borders were closed to everyone but citizens of each country. Even within countries, such as here in Australia, borders were closed internally, creating mini countries within a country. It was a very strange time.

Leaving Sydney and heading in to the unknown

116 weeks later, some 813 days, we are once again packing up all our possessions, our life, and having them carted off to storage. This time we are doing it on the west coast. We could either say that we are just starting our travels, or we could reframe it as, we are now two years into it.

Leaving Perth

Either way, things are getting real. Again. We are down to a backpack each. And a day bag. The things in there are slightly different from two years ago. Newer, but we have had to apply the same minimalism. And it is hard. Difficult. Deciding what to pack when you could be away for 12 months. Living through different seasons.

It may be the season of summer in the UK, where we will be spending our first large stint of time, but summer in the UK means something very different to summer elsewhere. So we have to be judicious with what we pack. A great tip I read many years ago, when embarking on long term travel, was to lay out all the clothes you think you need, then pack half of it. Easier said than done, believe me.

A Simpler Life

Although, once done, it does make travelling so much easier. No encumbrances. A couple of bags that hold everything you have. No space for trinkets and souvenirs that only gather dust once you are back home. A fruit bowl that looked “interesting” in the dimly lit market. A miniature camel that has no place in your lounge at home. No, none of that.

We will be taking our bags and our first port of call will be Hamilton Island, in Queensland. The trip we had booked for my 50th celebration, last Xmas, and which got cancelled due to the aforementioned border closures.

A few months later than planned but we will be staying at the Qualia resort, something we are very excited about. Time to decompress after the last few weeks of arranging, packing up, and cleaning. Leaving a rental in Australia is rather intense if you want your bond money back. Then there are all the utilities to cancel. A virtual mailbox to find. The list goes on and on.

Qualia, here we come, eventually

The only thing on my list when we hit Qualia will be a dip in the pool and a cocktail, or three. And yes, before you remind me, we are travelling, not on holiday. So we have to reset our expectations, but for the first part of this trip we have agreed to a “holiday” budget. The hotels when we travel will have significantly fewer stars. If we can even afford a hotel.

Until that time, we intend to kick back and enjoy ourselves. Starting with a strong coffee at Perth airport.

I will be sure to let you all know how we get on.