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When we last chatted, I was telling you about the travel mishaps we had. The ones that had happened in the first week. And I am glad to report (as at the time of writing) that we have yet to suffer any new inconveniences.

What I can tell you is that we have made it to England. For the first time in three years. We took our time in getting here since leaving Perth. Taking the chance to call in at a few favourite travel spots. And visit a few new ones.

Explore With Fran

For any of you following our journey on Instagram (explore_with_fran), and if you aren’t, what are you waiting for?, you will have seen some of the sights and places that we have been lucky enough to see. Noosa and Brisbane in Queensland saw us soaking up the sun, and sampling big city life. Hamilton Island had us living the life of luxury, with qualia cementing its reputation as resort of choice for those special occasions. 

The Lion State

Singapore again showed me why it is one of my favourite travel destinations. A city state country that runs like clockwork. Efficiency and cleanliness are by-words that describe the Lion State. We stayed in a different location for this visit, right in the heart of Robertson’s Quay. On the river and a little more refined than its upstart neighbours, Clarke and Boat Quay. 

And whilst I am talking of refined, I must mention the Champagne High Tea we enjoyed in the impressive surroundings of the Raffles Hotel lobby. From the high tea, we had a walk to the very “insta worthy” Atlas Bar, for gin and tonics. In a bar that looks steeped in history, and very redolent of the 1920s, we sat back in quiet grandeur, reflecting on a very impressive afternoon.

First Time Dubai

Leaving Singapore, I got the chance to add to the “countries I have visited” list. As the taxi screamed down the freeway, I was convinced we were going to die. Never have I been so close to a car in front, at such speed. I was left to ponder, “would I have enjoyed Dubai had I survived this taxi ride?”

We did survive the taxi ride, somehow, and we really enjoyed our four nights in Dubai. We were joined by Dave and Jane and it was great to catch up over some fabulous dinners, the most notable being at Hell’s Kitchen, in the hotel. Alcohol prices in Dubai have to be seen to be believed and thankfully we had the foresight to pick up a bottle of wine and a small bottle of whisky in Singapore airport.

A phrase I used a lot when we lived in Perth, was “hotter than hell”. When my weather app told me that the temperature in Dubai “feels like 55 degrees” I had to do a double take. This really was hotter than hell. It was the most oppressive heat I have experienced and the swimming pool was the perfect place to cool down.

We certainly cooled down a few days later, when we landed at Manchester airport in the evening. Yes, this is supposed to be summer, but is it. Really? What are guaranteed are the long evenings. With the sun not going down until around 9.30pm, my body clock is needing to do a reset. It is hard getting to sleep whilst it is still light out.

The long days are allowing us to have long morning walks, and days catching up with friends and family. Through the pandemic, everyone has had a tough couple of years. We have been away for three years. A long time to be separated from family. Until we decide on what the next stage of our travel plans look like, we will make the most of being back.

A Nervous Wait

So there we were, in the blazing sun, 30 minutes early for the bus back to Split. I had checked the bus ticket numerous times and verified where the bus stop was. Why did I feel so uneasy? It was probably due to the fact that this was the only bus today passing through Podgora, heading north. 

Nervously checking my watch I saw that it was 14.13, a minute before our scheduled bus service. As I glanced up I saw our bus. Relief turned to panic as the driver didn’t slow down, but wildly gesticulated something. But what? He certainly wasn’t stopping. Maybe the bus stop was further along the road and the driver was trying to tell me this. 

I chased after the bus, around the next bend in the road and glimpsed the bus heading off into the distance. Definitely not stopping. As my adrenaline subsided my emotions turned to anger and frustration. What are we supposed to do now?

So do we Have a Plan B?

Despondently, trudging back slowly to the bus stop, where Victoria still was, I wracked my brain. Had I got the right bus stop? Had the driver been distracted and going too fast to stop so he just ploughed on? Either way, we needed a new plan. And fast. We had a night booked in Split and a boat to Hvar tomorrow. 

With a creeping sense of deja vu we dragged our bags back the way we had only recently come from. Back to the hotel reception. They looked a little surprised to see us again and perhaps they wondered why we were checking back in so soon after leaving. Believe me, the food wasn’t quite that good.

Explaining the situation, our plan quickly took shape. A taxi from the hotel to the next big village, Makarska. From there, hopefully we could board a bus to Split. As the hotel called for a taxi I could feel my optimism rising. The rather exhorbitant taxi fee felt a small price to pay. As did the two hours sat in a desolate Makarska bus station, waiting for the next bus to Split. Perhaps we would be on that boat tomorrow. 

Back to Split

And we were. It felt good to spend another night in Split. Exploring the palace and having a great (second) final dinner in the city. We had booked a night in a simple, (read: no kettle), apartment, that was very central, and close to a laundrette. We would have clean underwear for the next part of our journey. As much as we enjoyed spending time in Split, we had places to be and at 11.30am the next day our boat pushed out of the harbour. Next stop, the island of Hvar. 

Hvar Island 

Hvar is one of the most well known of the Croatian islands. With a reputation as a party island. This wasn’t why we were going. It was October, the low season, and hopefully we would get to enjoy the beauty of the island without the rigmarole that comes with a place that is now “famous” on Instagram. 

We weren’t disappointed. Our 4 days on Hvar were fabulous. Staying in a great little apartment a short walk from the centre we had a great base to see much of the island. 

A day trip to the old town of Stari Grad (stari grad actually translates to old town), showed us a quieter side of Hvar. Narrow cobbled streets housing shops and restaurants. With few visitors, and much now closed for the season, it really felt as though time slowed down for the day.

Clothes Optional

Back in Hvar town the following day we jumped on a taxi boat and headed out to one of the only small islands still open, Jerolim. A tiny spot that reminded me of small islands in Thailand. Very reminiscent of what you may have seen in the movie, “The Beach”. Jumping off the boat and wandering through the trees we came to the beach. 

Yes, we had inadvertently (honest) come to a nudist beach for the day. A small inlet surrounded by ramshackle beach beds, we got comfy and tried our best to avert our eyes. There was naked flesh everywhere. Even a chap, who we later learned was from the very strict Dubai, stripped off and had his wife video him walking in and out of the sea, in his birthday suit. He must have felt very liberated. 

Culture Shock in Croatia 

Back on Hvar, and with everyone fully clothed, it was time for drinks. But first, we needed an ATM. Never in my life had I used cash machines so often. Especially in the last few years with many businesses in Australia going “cash free”. Not so in Croatia. It was rare to find places accepting card payments. We often had to check before ordering so we knew whether we had to find a cash machine before we could eat and drink. 

Another frustration was the proliferation of people.smoking inside. Yes. Inside. Like many places in Europe, smoking seems ubiquitous in Croatia. When I first spotted someone smoking in a cafe, as I strolled past, I did a double take. It look so incongruous. After many years of smoking inside being banned in the countries I had been living in. 

Exploring New Foods

That said, it is amazing what you get used to. And before long I had no trouble enjoying some of my new favourite foods. Burek for breakfast. And ćevapćići for lunch. Both delicious. And both filling. Travelling on a budget has a way of introducing you to local foods that ordinarily you may not try. 

As I finished my breakfast burek we headed to the port and our 10.10am boat to Korčula. Our island hopping continues with three nights on Korčula Island, often described as a mini Dubrovnik. Having not (yet) been to Dubrovnik we didn’t know what to expect. 

In keeping with our time in Croatia so far we know we will have good weather. Clear blue waters. And very good wine. Just as long as we can also find an ATM!

Korčula Island

We did find ATMs. Lots of them. We also found a beautiful island. Small. Pretty. And mercifully quiet of the hordes of tourists I expected. Cruise ships and boats do come into Korčula on a daily basis and come the evening the streets mostly clear and become an oasis. Walking along the city’s fortified walls, with a cool evening breeze, selecting a restaurant for dinner. 

Exploring the wine of Korčula 

Korčula is also renowned for its wine. In particular the Pôsip grape that makes very good white wine. We spent a day on a wine tour of the island, just four of us, visiting a number of very rural, and basic, cellar doors. The wine was a better quality than the wineries. That said, service was good and we had a very enjoyable day. 

Korčula old town is built in the fashion of a “fish bone” allowing for the winds to be redirected through the town. Dubrovnik is built on the same design as were to find out a few days later. 

It was in Korčula that I reignited my love affair with the ćevapćići. A meat lovers heaven. The number of sausages determined by whether you get small or large, the resulting sandwich keeps you full for the rest of the day. 

We really enjoyed our time on Korčula and would highly recommend it for a visit. As with all of Croatia there are heaps of accommodation options. Again, we booked a private apartment, being met by the owner Felip at the port with a “Victoria Harper” sign. He walked with us the short distance to what turned out to be an excellent apartment. With our own little courtyard for afternoon glasses of Posip. 

It wasn’t just wine we enjoyed in the courtyard. All travellers will know that your best friend, when it comes to a travelling budget, is the humble picnic. And many times we self catered, stocking up on bread, meats, cheeses, and more importantly, beer or wine. And as frugal as we are, or maybe it is how we have been brought up, we can’t throw anything away. In Korcula, this resulted in Victoria having a sandwich the size of a small football. Yes, for those of you wondering, she did finish it.

Back to the boat, Dubrovnik bound

Checking out, we had a final look around the apartment. Some of the places we stay I can’t wait to see the back of. This place, I could have happily stayed in. Perhaps getting a job selling ćevapćići. However, a rolling stone gathers no moss, and we had a boat to catch. We were leaving “mini Dubrovnik, and heading for the real thing.

Between the lakes

Between the lakes. Quite literally. We were staying at the Swiss town of Interlaken, nestled between the lakes Thun and Brienz. And we could not have had a smoother travel day. Often, when we look at where to sleep we need to consider our mode of transport. Where we will arrive in a place. For much of Europe we have travelled by train, as we did today, and the Hotel Merkur was literally across the street from the station.

The hotel lottery

We spend a lot of time trying to find accommodation. It is exhausting. Looking for somewhere that is not a hovel, yet always trying to find the cheapest deal. With the Hotel Merkur I wasn’t sure what to expect. Google reviews are our first point of reference, and various travellers had given, let’s say, less than positive reviews. Resulting in an overall Google review score of 3.5, the lowest we had dared to book to date.

Would we be met by the same “surly receptionist”? Will breakfast “underwhelm us” as it had done other travellers? As we disembarked the 12.04 train from Bern, and I spotted the unassuming hotel across the street, I steeled myself.

Despite being early, before the very strict 3pm check in time that Swiss hotels adhere to, we were met with a friendly face and a kind offer to watch our bags so we could explore the town ahead of the room being ready. 

Yes, the cows really do wear bells

Interlaken is a small town, very popular with what the guide books describe as “adrenalin junkies”. And immediately, looking up to the skies, you can see some of them, slowly floating back to earth in a tandem paraglide. This became a very common sight over the two days that we were there. A never ending stream of paragliders, coming down between the mountains, and landing in the field populated by cows. Cows that by now were ambivalent to the tourists landing nearby and taking selfies, to prove their achievement. The bells around the cows’ necks ringing as they nonchalantly chewed grass and no doubt wondering what all the fuss was about.

Impressive Interlaken

It is easy to see why Interlaken is such a draw for tourists. Very small, and ringed by impressive, snow capped mountains. If paragliding is not your thing, you can also go kayaking, hike the mountains, and even take a trip to the famed Jungfrau. The highest train station in Europe. 

On our second morning we did something that got our own adrenaline going. We headed to the “Top of Interlaken”, via the steepest, and highest funicular we have ever been on. Harder Bahn is the funicular that takes you, almost vertically, up the mountain, to Harder Kulm, some 1323 meters above sea level.

And the views are spectacular, looking across both the lakes, with Interlaken, tiny, nestled between the two. Even more impressive were the two walkers that appeared, seemingly out of nowhere, having trekked up the mountain on foot. Thankfully, there was a warm restaurant at the summit that we could get a beer and toast their achievements.

Zurich

For our last stop in Switzerland, we were back on the train. We were to spend three nights in Zurich, a place we were both really looking forward to visiting. It was in Zurich that we really got to start experiencing the xmas markets that Europe is famous for. Scattered all over the city, we were never far from a bratwurst and a gluhwein. It turns out that we weren’t very far from a B list celebrity. Vicky Pattison, of one time Geordie Shore fame managed to photobomb a picture of Victoria as she explored the xmas markets of Zurich. She really was “balls deep in Bratwurst” as she had promised on her Instagram feed.

Zurich is a fabulous city. Sat on the Limatt river, which cuts through the old town, it also is home to the largest clock face in Europe. A fact I had learned from an American tourist. St Peter’s church has a clock face in excess of 8 metres in diameter, putting Big Ben firmly in the shade. Strolling through the old town, we headed to a cafe to stave off the cold. We had our sights set on another great Swiss hot chocolate, incomparable with many of the poor imitators you may have had elsewhere. 

Xmas decorations

As the temperatures dropped, and the light started fading, we were drawn back to the gluhwein. Our new “cost of living” indicator. Immediately, the 6.90CHF (Swiss francs) became our new benchmark. I learned that gluhwein typically is 10% volume. Stronger than I thought. And this could explain that the more of it Victoria drank, the more she wanted to purchase xmas decorations. A tradition that started way back when we were in Dubrovnik, Croatia , picking up a xmas decoration for home has become a regular occurence. We are currently up to three with many more xmas markets to come. I fear we will need to buy a bigger bag..

Raclette, a game changer

Having spent money on luxury items such as hot chocolates, we had little left for dinners. This resulted in a few days of living on xmas market food. The highlight of which was my raclette burger. If you have never had raclette, which is very strong, very pungent, melted Swiss cheese, then you need to fix this. Quick. It is life changing. And scraped from the raclette tin, onto the pink pattie of a burger is one of life’s pleasures.

Time to bid farewell to Switzerland

This was our first visit to Switzerland, and we already know that one day we will return. Yes, it is blooming expensive. So expensive. Not the kind of country a traveller can spend much time in. So, in the future, we will return, with money in our pocket and have more than one of those decadent hot chocolates.  For now, we have a train booked for the morning. We are leaving Switzerland and off to country number 15 since we left Perth way back in June.

Our first foray into Austria will be to Innsbruck.

An Easy Goodbye to NYC

Leaving New York always feels easy. Because you know that you are going to be back. Maybe not in a year. Maybe not in five. But, you will, I assure you. The Big Apple is such a draw that you won’t be able to resist. Eventually. A little like tattoos. After you have your first you are on a lifelong journey. It is only a matter of time before you get your second.

Unlike tattoos, visiting New York is painless. As was leaving her, on a cold December afternoon. We wheeled our cases across town and jumped on a FlixBus at Madison Square Gardens. An easy four and half hour bus ride later and we were rolling into South Station, Boston.

Bus to Boston

Boston is a city that I have wanted to visit for a very long time. I am not sure why, exactly. Maybe it is after watching so many films based in Boston, and being drawn to the very distinctive Boston accent. Just sitting on the same bench in Boston Common from which Robin Williams delivered a stirring speech to a young Matt Damon in the film Good Will Hunting. Or being engrossed in “The Town” and the bank robbing character played by local boy, Ben Affleck.

However, I suspect it was after watching all those episodes of “Cheers”, many years ago, and wanting to drink somewhere that “everyone knows your name”. It was touching to see a large poster of the late Kirstie Alley outside the bar, thanking her “for the laughs”.

Braving the cold in Boston

Whatever the reason, I was very happy to be here. And even happier that we had some semblance of warm clothing, because it was mighty cold. With the wind chill the temperature had dropped to freezing. Our hotel was located in North Station, overlooking the stadium that is shared by Boston Celtics (basketball) and Boston Bruins (ice hockey).

This made for a very vibrant part of town as each night there seemed to be a game on. And the hotel room made for an interesting night. Our bed (number 62 of the trip) was fully boxed in on three sides. Meaning person two had to clamber over person one to get out to the toilet. I made sure I was person one, closer to the toilet.

Boston’s place at the heart of US history

Exploring Boston was a constant eye opener for me. Ignorant, maybe, yet I hadn’t realised the extent of the history in Boston. How much of the journey to independence started right there. I knew of the famous “Boston Tea Party”, and it was good to visit the spot where the tea had been ceremoniously dumped in the water. Over the course of four days I also got to learn more of Samuel Adams, Paul Revere, and a host of other characters that play an integral role in what became the United States of America. 

The “Freedom Trail” is a well sign posted walk across the city, taking in key sights and monuments from the time. Visiting the cemeteries where these key figures from history lay was a moving experience. With only a slight detour we even got to see a potato memorial. In fact, Victoria insisted on it. And I have to say, as far as potato memorials go, it was possibly the best I’ve ever seen. 

The food theme continues

If New York is about the pizza, Boston is all about the clam chowder (potatoes notwithstanding). And it didn’t take me long to try my first. On the very first night we visited the famous Quincy Markets and their excellent food stalls. Boston Chowda provided dinner for me that night. A delicious seafood chowder in a bread bowl. 

Keeping up with my love of American comfort food we had a great mac and cheese dinner at one of the two breweries we visited and we also got to have an authentic Boston bar experience. Tucked away on a side street, down in the basement, we joined Boston locals at Teddy’s On The Hill and had a pint of New England IPA and a huge plate of ribs. Delicious. I could almost hear the locals describing me as “wicked smaaht “ for calling in. 

Have I mentioned we love hot chocolate? Great hot chocolate. In Boston we had some of the best at LA Burdick in the Back Bay area. So good in fact we ended up going twice. 

Time to head south, and to warmer climes

Hot chocolate was something we wouldn’t be needing at our next destination. Having spent a full day in Boston deliberating about where to go next, both insisting it had to be somewhere warm, we flew down to Miami. This was where we would spend the next four nights, which included Christmas Day. Yes, we were craving a Christmas from home so we were off to the beach. 

Not any old beach. Our home was to be South Beach. Famous for Miami Vice, the Bad Boys franchise, and for being where Gianni Versace was murdered on the steps of his mansion. Now converted into a 5 star hotel, the Versace mansion was around the corner from our rather less salubrious accommodation.

Our hotel was one we won’t be forgetting in a hurry. Slightly shabby and our room was over the hotel pool and restaurant. Not a problem in most parts of the world but in Miami, where loud, pumping music until midnight is the standard, it caused some annoyance.

Miami life, without the vice

Spending time out of the hotel was easy and we spent much time walking the excellent boardwalk that hugs the ocean. It was fun to watch the life of Miami in all its glory. Outside gyms with dedicated people pumping weights even on Christmas morning. Silly three wheel cars called Slingshots. We marvelled at the amazing Art Deco buildings lining Ocean Drive. We marvelled even more as we walked past The Palace. A full on dancing show, drag style. Men were literally throwing money at the dancers, whilst their wives were probably at the bar. This was Miami.

Food played a big role, I’m sure you will be surprised to hear. We got to celebrate my birthday with a huge Greek feast. We usually have Indian food on Christmas Day but this year we wanted to relive our Greek Island hopping adventures of last summer. More than once we visited the Time Out markets and like the ones we visited in Lisbon and New York there was a wide array of fabulous eating options. I had quite possibly the largest Japanese curry rice in the world. 

Our last night in Miami saw me in my favourite habitat. The humble American diner. I love them. And their simplicity. House drip coffee and a menu that has everything I could ever want. The hard part is choosing. I landed on the corned beef hash and it was a good choice. We even had real Heinz tomato ketchup. Happy days.

Onwards we go

Our happy days in the United States were drawing to a close. We were due on a flight to Los Angeles were we overnighted, before boarding a 12 hour flight to Tokyo. Country number 17 and bed number 65 awaits. Asia, here we come.

Entering Malaysia by boat

This was the second time on the world trip that we had arrived in a new country by boat. The first time being when we disembarked from the Norwegian Epic, after 9 days at sea, in a cold, wet New York City . Today, we were entering Malaysia through immigration at the port on Langkawi Island. This was after a two hour boat ride since clearing customs in Thailand.

Although I have previously travelled through Malaysia, Langkawi was a new destination for both of us. I wasn’t sure what to expect and there is always a sense of excitement when crossing the borders of neighbouring countries. How similar will they be? How hard will it be to adapt to (another) new currency? And, perhaps most importantly, what will the local beer be like*

Languid Langkawi

What we did find in those early days in Langkawi was that many of the restaurants did not serve alcohol. For the first time in as long as we could remember, we had dinners without an alcoholic drink. Never have we drunk so much Sprite. Due to sharia law in Malaysia, muslims are not allowed to consume alcohol. It follows that alcohol is a little harder to come by. We even saw mini marts, usually our go to for cheap beer, with signs in the window pointing out the fact that they don’t sell beer. 

Langkawi had the feel of a place that needed some love and attention. Possibly as a result of the pandemic, and a lack of tourists, many places looked abandoned, or run down. The beach was a wide expanse of sand, with lots of potential. Yet, there were few sun loungers or parasols to encourage lingering. We did what most people seemed to be doing, spending days around our hotel pool, wandering back out for dinner in the evening. 

We did do a trip whilst on Langkawi. To the mangrove forests of the Kilim Geoforest Park. An enjoyable day out on the river, exploring the natural beauty of Langkawi, with nearby Thailand in the distance. Cruising through the mangroves, sharing the forest with some very inquisitive monkeys. Monkeys that had the temerity to jump on board our boat and steal bottles of water. On this trip we are meeting some monkeys that are not endearing me to the species. 

Pressing on to Penang

Our plan was to jump on a boat from Langkawi, heading south. Yet, the effects of COVID linger in these parts of the world. The boat to Penang was out of service because of it. This left us having to jump on a plane for the 45 minute flight. If only all flights could be this short. On the island of Penang we were staying in Georgetown, the UNESCO listed heritage town. 

The Citadines is a chain of hotels we first came across whilst in Brussels, all those months ago. In Penang the Citadines was brand new. In a gorgeous, renovated heritage building. So new you could still smell the paint. It was a great place to rest our heads for three nights. Francis Light established modern Penang in 1786. Following the second World War, Penang merged with Malaysia which itself gained independence from Britain in 1957.

Wandering around Penang is a delight. Beautiful architecture. Hawkers selling local street food. And some of the best street art you will see. We happened across a couple and started reading about them. It turns out that Penang is a street art delight. One of the simple pleasures is going on a “treasure hunt” to find more. To see them all would take a lot longer than the 3 days we were in town. We will have to save the rest for the next time we are passing through.

From Penang to Kuala Lumpur

For now, we were back in the air. Another short flight. From Penang to the capital, Kuala Lumpur. Known locally as KL, this is a city that for me is so reminiscent of Singapore. Clean streets. Great hawker food. And some of the best shopping malls in the world. It is true that we weren’t here to shop, but after a long walk to see the Petronas Towers you can’t believe how welcome a bit of air conditioning is. A life saver. The Petronas Towers are the highest twin towers in the world but these are put in the shade by the new Merdeka 118 tower. The second highest building in the world after the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

Much like Singapore, KL has very diverse neighbourhoods. It was whilst strolling through Chinatown that we discovered KL has its very own street art. Our treasure hunt was back on. But first, coffee. I may have mentioned coffee in previous blogs, and how the coffee shop experience across southeast asia is off the scale. In KL we found a self proclaimed “Melbourne coffee shop”. I am afraid to say that whilst it was a decent drop, it wasn’t the quality of Melbourne.

On the bus to Melaka

Leaving KL and heading south we were able to eschew the airport this time. Our taxi dropped us at the out of town bus terminal and despite a 30 minute delay we still arrived in Melaka (Malacca) in good time. Melaka is another port town, colonised in the past due to its strategic location, much like Penang. In fact, at one point in the past the British destroyed the fort at Melaka, trying to encourage people to relocate to either Singapore or Penang, ports they deemed to be of more importance. 

Travelling in the way we have been doing for the last 10 months is an education in itself. We learn more than we ever could sat in a classroom. The colonial past of many countries is intertwined. With some countries, such as Britain, coming out looking less than favourabley. In building an empire, Britain subverted cultures, destroyed families, and imposed their will in places that were mostly not wanted. We look in horror at what Putin is doing to Ukraine. If we look in the mirror, what do we see?

Melaka is a very popular tourist town. And it is easy to see why. Weekend visits for nearby Singaporeans. European backpackers. And lots of Malaysian visitors. It is easy to see why the town is so popular. It is very easy on the eye with the many buildings painted in a vibrant red. And yes, it even has its own street art. With the town now protected by UNESCO I hope all the ugly high rise hotels I see on the outskirts of town don’t ever start encroaching on the lovely historical centre.

One day we took a river cruise. An activity that gets a lot of visitors. We joined a boat load of them and slowly cruised up the river, giving us a new perspective of the shophouses that line the river as it snakes its way north. En route there were a number of “ghost” stops that I imagine the boats stopping at in previous times. Like a lot of things we have encountered on our travels I wonder how much as been shaped by the pandemic, and how much will return to how it was.

Walking back along the river, later in the day, we got quite the shock. I have seen Komodo dragons in a zoo before. But never in real life. The size of these things give you a shock. I am sure, should they be inclined, they could drag me in the river and devour me. Thankfully, we survived, and I had to (absolutely had to) go for yet another coffee to calm my nerves.

A travel day like no other

It was time to leave Melaka, and Malaysia. We had somewhere to be. And it was going to take us a while to get there. Starting with a taxi to the bus station in Melaka. Then, a 3 hour bus ride across the border, clearing both Malaysian and Singaporean customs. A ride through Singapore. A taxi to Changi airport. Finally, a flight to Manila. Phew. I am tired just thinking about it and will save the next leg of the trip for the next blog.

*For those wondering, the “local” beer appeared to be Tiger. Despite being from across the border in Singapore, it was ubiquitous in Malaysia. And it only cost 92 cents a can (52p).

The travel day of all travel days

As we crawl into bed, shattered, in a small bed and breakfast in downtown Manila, it is easy to forget the day we had to leave Malaysia. Our taxi picked us up just before 9am in Melaka to take us to the rather hectic bus terminal. The 9.30am bus to Singapore took us over 3 and a half hours, negotiating both Malaysian customs, and then Singapore customs and immigration. Even though we were only transiting through. Getting off the bus in the city state of Singapore we then had to find a taxi to take us to Changi airport. Arriving in good time for our 4.30pm flight to Manila we had time to refuel, knowing that this would be our last meal of the day.

Arriving in Manila we once more negotiated customs, our third country today, and went off to collect our bags and use the Grab app to get a taxi. We had the foresight to book into a very simple bed and breakfast close to the airport, making it easier both that night, and for our flight out the next morning. The reception we got at Rain B&B could not have been friendlier, and after a refreshing drink, a cold towel, we were shown to our room. Where I promptly collapsed into bed number 88 of the trip and slept like the dead.

Bound for beautiful Boracay

The next day we were headed to the holiday island of Boracay, in the central Philippines. A simpler travel day and yet… If you have been to Manila you will know what the traffic is like. Then, there is the small fact that Manila airport has four terminals, none of which are connected. There is a reason that the Philippines does not always figure high on the itinerary of travellers passing through Southeast Asia. A collection of 7,640 islands, the Philippines is hard to get into, and even harder to move around.

Knowing of those 7,640 islands, we had grand plans of island hopping for a while but due to the logistical challenges of this we settled for a week of rest and relaxation on the island of Boracay. Boracay is rightly popular amongst Filipino travellers. A tiny island, fringed by beautiful palm trees, and sand so soft and white that you could almost be back on the famous Whitehaven Beach in Australia.

The week of relaxation was due to be our last stop before heading back home. But, midway through the week, sipping cold San Miguel whilst watching the best sunset of our lives, we looked at each other and just knew what each was thinking. We let it sit there. Between us. Unspoken, yet so powerful. In that moment we knew that the Philippines was not to be the end of this amazing odyssey.

The rehabilitation of Boracay

Boracay is not this beautiful by accident. Whilst naturally stunning, and blessed with beaches, the island suffered a fate common to other tourist hotspots in the region. Overdeveloped. Too many tourists. Not the correct infrastructure to deal with the volume of people. We saw, or rather smelt this, first hand on the Thai island of Phi Phi. Without the sewerage to deal with the vast numbers of visitors the streets literally stink of shit, emanating up from the open sewers.  

Boracay may, or may not have been at this level, yet in 2018 the Philippine government closed the island down for 6 months. They even went to the extent of posting soldiers and police officers at the entry points on the pier to turn visitors away. The rehabilitation was considered a success and now the island is abuzz with tourists looking to laze away the day on the perfect “White Beach” and party long into the night.

I am afraid to say that the “influencers” are out in force too. It is probably the first time in my life I have seen grown women dressing up in mermaid outfits and lolling around on the beach. The photographers that are paid to follow them about throw out demands to “lift your tail higher”. Could I BE any more saddened at what the world is becoming?

White Beach of Boracay

Our 6 days there were spent in a state of bliss. Starting with the excellent breakfast provided by the hotel, followed by long walks along White Beach. The feel of the sand under our feet was unreal. So soft. As part of the rehabilitation of the island, sun loungers and parasols are no longer permitted and this does cause an issue as the sun gets higher in the sky. It is a bit of a scramble to find a spare palm tree to lay in the shade of.

As the sun goes down, Boracay comes to life. There is something for everyone. Many restaurants serving every cuisine under the sun. Cheap beach bars where I was having a rum and coke for $1.37 (74p). And enough karaoke bars to satisfy all the budding Filipino Gloria Gaynors. Days passed way too quick.

Makati in Manila

Before we knew it, our time on the island had come to an end. We now had another travel trek back to Manila. Getting picked up at 6.30am from Watercolors Hotel was just the start of it. What followed was a ride to the boat terminal in Boracay. A boat across to Catical, saying goodbye to the island of Boracay. A minibus to the airport, which took all of 4 minutes. A 40 minutes flight  to Manila and finally a Grab taxi to Havitat Hotel. Phew.

Thankfully, on arrival at the hotel our room was ready and we were able to drop the bags and freshen up, before heading out for some lunch. We were staying in the Makati part of Manila, and were conveniently very close to the Power Plant mall, which had many dining options. It was also here, in the Starbucks Roastery, that I got to catch up with an old friend.

Friendship and the importance of connection

Whilst working with a client in Sydney back in 2019 I had the opportunity to travel to Manila for a week, delivering some training to the teams based in the Bonifacio Global Centre in Manila. Having met him previously in Sydney, being in Manila gave me more time to get to know Edwin, who has turned into a great friend. Meeting Edwin for a coffee and catching up on the last few years, and how the Filipinos have been navigating COVID was great. And a great reminder that connection to each other is so important. We can use all the technology we have available to us and yet nothing beats the human connection we feel when we are sat facing each other, chatting over a coffee.

With our Philippines adventure drawing to a close it was time to look ahead. Look forward to where the road will take us. Reluctant to head home as first planned, we scraped a little more money out of the travel jar and are now on our way to country number 25, and onto Indonesia. We are Bali bound.