Exploring the East Coast of Tasmania
Launceston was over way too soon. I had found a city that I felt a connection with. So much historic and interesting architecture, natural beauty, and food to keep me happy for a very long time. The Tamar Valley alone could fill our weekends for a whole year. Did I mention there is also a very good whisky distillery? What I hadn’t known at the time, but found out since is that Launceston is also home to a tram. Despite the last official line closing in 1952, there is still a tram you can board for short tours, courtesy of the Launceston Tramway Museum, set up to keep the history alive from the days when trams criss crossed this beautiful city.
We were travelling a little further than a tram could take us today, heading east of Launceston to our next destination of Bicheno. Taking the scenic route, is there any alternative whilst travelling in Tasmania, and going via the Bay of Fires. We packed up the backpacks, loaded the bullet, and bid a fond farewell to the Red Feather Inn. Somewhere we would definitely return to.
Today was about arriving, rather than returning, and we were headed for Bicheno (pronounced Bish-u-No), on the east coast. As luck would have it, our visit to the east coast of Tasmania was coinciding with the Great Eastern Wine Week. Who knew? What started out as a long weekend to celebrate the wine growers of the region became so popular that there is a whole week dedicated to it. And, as you may have heard, we have always enjoyed celebrating wine.
Lunch stop in St Helens
Before wine there is coffee and I had my second of the day with a good eggs and bacon lunch at the Life Buoy café in St Helens, a small village just a few kilometres shy of Binalong Bay. Binalong Bay is the heart of the “Bay of Fires”, the area so called for the fires of the Aboriginals that were spotted from the passing ships of early European explorers. We called in at Binalong Bay for the views. Dramatic wind swept coastal views right across the bay. And some excellent beaches too that would need a warner day than we had to fully enjoy.
Back in the car, and warm again, we drove an hour south, along the coast, to Bicheno, a small coastal town with a population of just over 800 people. I was immediately taken by how much this reminded me of some of the villages on the west coast of New Zealand. A friendly feel as soon as you arrived. Taking a walk later in the day, the dark clouds drew in and brought the rain. Perfect fish and chips weather. Although, I have used that excuse on a glorious sunny day in summer too!
Where to get fish and chips in Bicheno
When it comes to fish and chips you have two options right on the coast in Bicheno. The Lobster Shack and the rather more rustic (scruffy) looking Tasmanian Coastal Seafoods. We chose the latter and Mrs C’s face was a picture when we ordered at the front counter. The small space looked like a dilapidated kitchen and there were more dead flies in the counter then there were fish.
However, we had read the reviews, trusted our instincts, ordered the food, and bought a couple of beers to while away the 30 minute wait. Yes, they were busy, despite the decor. I think the waiting room was actually the indoor restaurant area. In the cold wet evening it looked derelict but for the other patrons hunched over in their padded jackets and woolly hats.
Some 40 minutes later our takeaway arrived and we were back in the car, driving through the rain, the short drive back to the apartment. And the verdict? Very good fish and chips. Not quite the quality of Blakeley’s in Brighouse, but this is Australia. When it comes to fish and chips you have to lower your standards a little.
Time to sample the Great Eastern Wine Week
As the sun shone brightly on our second day in Bicheno we drove out to visit a couple of vineyards to celebrate Great Eastern Wine Week. First up, Devil’s Corner, in the midst of a large renovation that will bring a large new restaurant, outdoor seating area and enhanced cellar door experience. For now we opted for a flight of 3 wines to sample in the makeshift tent, doing a great job shielding us from the cold wind whipping off the sea.
Craigie Knowe vineyard, a little further along the road, had a ticketed event and we (Mrs C) had the foresight to get tickets. There was a live band, food truck, pop up patisserie, local beer stall, and all the Craigie Knowe wines to sample. This time we simply opted for a glass each. We picked up a chocolate éclair and a cheesecake (small, obviously), standing in the sun listening to the music.
There was a great turnout and I am always pleased to see small local businesses doing well in a time when 70% of their tourism has dropped off. These tourists come from the state of Victoria, of which Melbourne is the state capital. They are currently doing it very tough in COVID and are unable to travel outside the state. I am sure West Australians alone are not making up the difference in tourist numbers to Tasmania but we are doing all we can to help.
Bicheno Beams
The small town of Bicheno was doing well in attracting people despite it being the end of winter and the fact there is a pandemic. And winter here in Tasmania is cold. Despite the cold, each night the locals put on a laser and music show at 6.45pm. This evening there was also a sausage sizzle in aid of the local kids raising funds to build a skate park. We bypassed the sausage sizzle and picked up a couple of pizzas whilst walking home from the laser show. Slowly sipping tonight’s choice of Tasmanian whisky nightcap I was left to reflect on another great day, sadly a day closer to the end of the trip.
Time for Triabunna
Our last night in Tasmania was to be spent in Triabunna, small coastal town with a population of 874. Our accommodation was a tiny renovated cottage on an old orchard, Rostrevor. A book in the cottage provided a fascinating potted history of the orchard and the people who worked there over the years.
From what I had read about Triabunna there were two things worth doing. One was get the boat over to Maria Island, for which we had no time, and the other was to visit the Fish Van. I kid you not. The Fish Van is fast becoming a tourist attraction in its own right. Whilst having a whisky and gin tasting at the excellent Spring Bay distillery, it was recommended to us for dinner. It seems we were having our second fish and chips of the holiday.
Now, let me manage your expectations. This really is a van. Selling fish. And chips. So, this is what we had for dinner. And were they as good as the ones in Bicheno? Well, the fish was bigger. This always gets extra marks from me. The chips were similar. Typical Aussie chips. More like French fries than what I get served up in the UK. All up, a very good dinner, for $12 each, which was a lot cheaper than the ones a couple of nights ago.
Dinner finished, we spent the rest of the evening keeping warm in the cottage, finishing the bottle of Pinot Gris that we had started with dinner. My nightcap, the final one of the trip, was from Fannys Bay, back up on the North East coast. I added a couple of drops of water to bring out the flavour. This was one of the nicest whiskies I had had. And I had a few. Not peaty, yet I could taste something coming through. Maybe a hint of smoke. I just wish I had bought a bigger bottle.
The Final Day of the Tasmanian Road Trip
Thankful this morning that I hadn’t drunk a whole bottle of whisky, we had breakfast in the cottage. Simple vegemite on toast and a couple of strong coffees before hitting the road again. We opted for a light breakfast knowing that we had lunch booked for 12pm at Frogmore Creek Estate on the outskirts of Hobart. We broke up the journey in Sorrel with a coffee at the excellent Uncle Alby’s. Only open for the last 6 months, the barista told me they had built up quite a local clientele. Thankfully, the lack of interstate tourists wasn’t hitting them too hard. With coffee this good, I sense a good future for this little local business.
Lunch was a little more grand. Sat in the restaurant at Frogmore Creek, over looking the vines, with the sun hitting the windows, we were served with some delicious food. We shared a portion of the scallops and then shared a couple of main dishes, splitting the beautiful pork belly and lamb back strap between us. A glass of Cabernet Sauvignon finished things off perfectly.
And back to Hobart
Then, the holiday was finished off. We dropped the bullet back off at Bargain Rentals with Amit refusing to check the car over and telling Mrs C that he would “be in touch if there was anything wrong”. He was dealing with the wrong woman, people. She told him, in no uncertain terms that there was nothing wrong and that she did NOT expect to be hearing from him. I hid outside, minding the bags.
A pint in the Customs House pub on the the waterfront, killed a little time before jumping in an Uber to the airport. We managed a short visit to the business class lounge (it only opens 1 hour ahead of your flight departing), and then we were on our way home. With a time difference of -2 hours in Perth, we landed at 10.30pm And tomorrow? Back to work and a check of the calendar for when we can next get away.
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