Beach life and the wonder of Angkor Wat

Cambodia’s main event

If Phnom Penh and Kampot were the entree, the entry into this fascinating country, then what was to come was surely the main course. Having travelled across countries, on buses, and terrible, unsealed roads, it was time to slow down and relax. In fact, Victoria demanded it, and it turned out to be just the tonic. One of her masterstrokes. I hadn’t realised how much my body and mind needed it.

Skipping Sihanoukville

And so it was that we found ourselves leaving Kampot on a minibus bound for the coastal city of Sihanoukville. Here we would jump straight on a boat across to the island of Koh Roh Sanloem. The smaller of two neighbouring  islands, this is described as the pearl of Cambodia, and we were soon to find out why. I had stayed in the town of Sihanoukville many years ago and it wasn’t somewhere I wanted to linger.

Arriving at the pier to board the boat, I am always amazed at how many people there are. We are not all going to get on this small boat, are we? If we do, there is no way so many bags will be squeezed on with us. Cue, 15 minutes later, we are all onboard, with our bags, and are chugging out to the choppy open sea. Seeking a sense of safety I searched for the life jackets. How curious that they all had different labels in the back, all by Western brands. How often do Converse, or G Star Raw make life jackets, I absent mindedly thought. I just hope we wouldn’t have to use them as I am not sure they would even float by themselves.

Beach life at Koh Rong Sanloem

It was with a sense of relief that we docked at the pier. A pier that appeared to be falling apart, and the same anxiety hit me again. Right at the moment a small boat arrived to transfer us to the resort. Why such a small boat when we have eight people and all their travel luggage waiting? Where was the second boat, I naively thought? Once again, we all piled into the one boat and had a short, and interesting ride to the beachside bungalow resort we would be spending the next few days at. I tried not to focus on the big split in the side of the boat that was letting in water.

Jumping out of the boat in bare feet, as we were in a couple of feet of water, we all shared the task of transporting our bags from the boat to the beach. And once back on dry land, with my feet on the sand, I immediately felt the anxiety drain away. Life just slowed down. Right there in that moment. Checking into our bungalow, set back from the beach, it was going to be “footwear optional” for the next few days. And flopping down on the very comfortable bed, number 73 of the trip, I knew I was in for some stellar sleep.

Lazy on Lazy Beach

Sara Resort was set right on Saracen Bay, with beach stretching left and right, waves lapping the shore. Many mornings we lay on a lounger, reading, and drifting off to the calming sounds of the ocean. For days the most strenuous thing we did was walk for 25 minutes, across the width of the island, to Lazy Beach. And it is called Lazy for a reason. A picture book, isolated beach, with rustic, thatched bungalows and a restaurant to provide travellers with food. Situated on the west of the island it didn’t take long to see why this spot is so popular at sunset.

Back in Saracen Bay our days passed in a blissful haze. A great breakfast every morning, courtesy of the resort. And dinners were eaten on the beach, the sand between our toes. Each evening there was a great BBQ, happy hour beers, and what island stay is complete without the obligatory “fire show”?

Extending our stay on Koh Rong Sanloem

We were due to stay four nights on the island before heading back to the mainland and flying north to Siem Reap. However, we couldn’t resist staying an extra night. And as luck would have it, it was fortunate that we did. On the day we were due to leave the seas were too rough for the boats from Sihanoukville. It seems that we were to stay stranded on our desert island and witness one last amazing sunset.

Leaving the same way we came, I thought the trip couldn’t be any more fraught than when we arrived. I was wrong. Once on the larger boat, the skipper had some kind of record to beat. He hit the accelerator and we bounced across the sea in a way that convinced me I wouldn’t get to see the end of the day. I was sure we would either capsize, or that the boat would split in two. As the water from the sea poured in, I closed my eyes and tried to meditate. Tried. Thankful that I had escaped the water. Then, I looked across to my left and saw Victoria. Who wasn’t quite so fortunate. I fear she may have been drier had she swam to Sihanoukville.

Getting off the boat, relieved, we were in a taxi and off to the airport. This travel day had only just started, and Victoria neeed to dry off. I am glad to report that the rest of the day was drama free, despite Victoria, now dry, looking a little scared when she saw the small propeller plane we would be flying in to Siem Reap.

Siem Reap

It had been some years since I had last been in Siem Reap. We were to spend four nights at Khmer House Boutique. Only opened in November 2022 it was already seeing a steady stream of travellers. And rightly so. Khmer House Boutique is a wonderful hotel and a great base for what was to be a fabulous stay in Siem Reap. A small pool to laze around. Great breakfast options. And very friendly staff.

Over the years Siem Reap has transformed itself into a wonderful holiday location. Somewhere that has something for every budget. There are luxury resorts and spas that you could lose yourself in for weeks. Mid range options, such as the one we were in that provide everything you need. And lots of budget options. It won’t surprise you to learn that Siem Reap has been firmly on the backpacker trails for decades. There is a reason that a street in Siem Reap has been renamed “Pub Street”. A great place through the day for 75 cent (47p) beers. Less appealing at night when the volume of the music gets cranked up.

Finding the perfect brew in Siem Reap

Regular readers will know my love of coffee. And that southeast asia has some of the best coffee in the world. Siem Reap has heaps of very good coffee shops and I may have found the best in The Little Red Fox Espresso. Located in the Kandal district of Siem Reap, Aussie owned, and Cambodian run, The Little Red Fox pours excellent coffee. Aside from great coffee, the food in Siem Reap is as good as you will find anywhere. One of our favourite restaurants was Tevy’s Place. 

We met the owner, Tevy, and heard her story. She lost her father and three siblings in the Khmer Rouge atrocities of the 1970s. She now supports her mother, and employs local woman in her little Cambodian restaurant. Her signature dish is the national dish of fish amok. Served in the traditional way, in a banana leaf, we both decided this was one of our best dishes of the travels.

Amazing Angkor Wat

It would be remiss of me to write about Siem Reap and not mention Angkor Wat. Although, what can be said that hasn’t already been? One of the wonders of the world. Awe inspiring. The largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat temple complex covers some serious ground. Guide book advice suggests that you spend a few days if you want to see all of it.  It is mighty impressive.

Built by the Khmer Empire between the 9th and the 15th centuries, it is now a UNESCO world heritage site only some 7kms from the town of Siem Reap. Pause, and take it all in.  We hired a tuk tuk for the day and our driver took us around four of the most popular temples. In one of them we were lucky enough to receive a blessing from one of the monks.

Angkor, What?

A less grand, and much newer Angkor Wat is found at Angkor Wat Putt. A mini golf located some 30 minutes out of town. We took a tuk tuk and had a very enjoyable round of golf in the later afternoon heat. The owner advertises that there is a free beer for every hole in one. And would you believe, I sank the little white ball on my first attempt at hole 8. Over on Instagram there was speculation about who won. We both won, in what was a very enjoyable afternoon.

Hole in one. Free beer. And, who wo? What does this matter? We had bigger and better things to consider. Country number 21 was on the horizon. The missing piece in my “South East Asia” jigsaw for many years. Exciting time ahead.