An Easy Goodbye to NYC
Leaving New York always feels easy. Because you know that you are going to be back. Maybe not in a year. Maybe not in five. But, you will, I assure you. The Big Apple is such a draw that you won’t be able to resist. Eventually. A little like tattoos. After you have your first you are on a lifelong journey. It is only a matter of time before you get your second.
Unlike tattoos, visiting New York is painless. As was leaving her, on a cold December afternoon. We wheeled our cases across town and jumped on a FlixBus at Madison Square Gardens. An easy four and half hour bus ride later and we were rolling into South Station, Boston.
Bus to Boston
Boston is a city that I have wanted to visit for a very long time. I am not sure why, exactly. Maybe it is after watching so many films based in Boston, and being drawn to the very distinctive Boston accent. Just sitting on the same bench in Boston Common from which Robin Williams delivered a stirring speech to a young Matt Damon in the film Good Will Hunting. Or being engrossed in “The Town” and the bank robbing character played by local boy, Ben Affleck.
However, I suspect it was after watching all those episodes of “Cheers”, many years ago, and wanting to drink somewhere that “everyone knows your name”. It was touching to see a large poster of the late Kirstie Alley outside the bar, thanking her “for the laughs”.
Braving the cold in Boston
Whatever the reason, I was very happy to be here. And even happier that we had some semblance of warm clothing, because it was mighty cold. With the wind chill the temperature had dropped to freezing. Our hotel was located in North Station, overlooking the stadium that is shared by Boston Celtics (basketball) and Boston Bruins (ice hockey).
This made for a very vibrant part of town as each night there seemed to be a game on. And the hotel room made for an interesting night. Our bed (number 62 of the trip) was fully boxed in on three sides. Meaning person two had to clamber over person one to get out to the toilet. I made sure I was person one, closer to the toilet.
Boston’s place at the heart of US history
Exploring Boston was a constant eye opener for me. Ignorant, maybe, yet I hadn’t realised the extent of the history in Boston. How much of the journey to independence started right there. I knew of the famous “Boston Tea Party”, and it was good to visit the spot where the tea had been ceremoniously dumped in the water. Over the course of four days I also got to learn more of Samuel Adams, Paul Revere, and a host of other characters that play an integral role in what became the United States of America.
The “Freedom Trail” is a well sign posted walk across the city, taking in key sights and monuments from the time. Visiting the cemeteries where these key figures from history lay was a moving experience. With only a slight detour we even got to see a potato memorial. In fact, Victoria insisted on it. And I have to say, as far as potato memorials go, it was possibly the best I’ve ever seen.
The food theme continues
If New York is about the pizza, Boston is all about the clam chowder (potatoes notwithstanding). And it didn’t take me long to try my first. On the very first night we visited the famous Quincy Markets and their excellent food stalls. Boston Chowda provided dinner for me that night. A delicious seafood chowder in a bread bowl.
Keeping up with my love of American comfort food we had a great mac and cheese dinner at one of the two breweries we visited and we also got to have an authentic Boston bar experience. Tucked away on a side street, down in the basement, we joined Boston locals at Teddy’s On The Hill and had a pint of New England IPA and a huge plate of ribs. Delicious. I could almost hear the locals describing me as “wicked smaaht “ for calling in.
Have I mentioned we love hot chocolate? Great hot chocolate. In Boston we had some of the best at LA Burdick in the Back Bay area. So good in fact we ended up going twice.
Time to head south, and to warmer climes
Hot chocolate was something we wouldn’t be needing at our next destination. Having spent a full day in Boston deliberating about where to go next, both insisting it had to be somewhere warm, we flew down to Miami. This was where we would spend the next four nights, which included Christmas Day. Yes, we were craving a Christmas from home so we were off to the beach.
Not any old beach. Our home was to be South Beach. Famous for Miami Vice, the Bad Boys franchise, and for being where Gianni Versace was murdered on the steps of his mansion. Now converted into a 5 star hotel, the Versace mansion was around the corner from our rather less salubrious accommodation.
Our hotel was one we won’t be forgetting in a hurry. Slightly shabby and our room was over the hotel pool and restaurant. Not a problem in most parts of the world but in Miami, where loud, pumping music until midnight is the standard, it caused some annoyance.
Miami life, without the vice
Spending time out of the hotel was easy and we spent much time walking the excellent boardwalk that hugs the ocean. It was fun to watch the life of Miami in all its glory. Outside gyms with dedicated people pumping weights even on Christmas morning. Silly three wheel cars called Slingshots. We marvelled at the amazing Art Deco buildings lining Ocean Drive. We marvelled even more as we walked past The Palace. A full on dancing show, drag style. Men were literally throwing money at the dancers, whilst their wives were probably at the bar. This was Miami.
Food played a big role, I’m sure you will be surprised to hear. We got to celebrate my birthday with a huge Greek feast. We usually have Indian food on Christmas Day but this year we wanted to relive our Greek Island hopping adventures of last summer. More than once we visited the Time Out markets and like the ones we visited in Lisbon and New York there was a wide array of fabulous eating options. I had quite possibly the largest Japanese curry rice in the world.
Our last night in Miami saw me in my favourite habitat. The humble American diner. I love them. And their simplicity. House drip coffee and a menu that has everything I could ever want. The hard part is choosing. I landed on the corned beef hash and it was a good choice. We even had real Heinz tomato ketchup. Happy days.
Onwards we go
Our happy days in the United States were drawing to a close. We were due on a flight to Los Angeles were we overnighted, before boarding a 12 hour flight to Tokyo. Country number 17 and bed number 65 awaits. Asia, here we come.
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