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Exploring the East Coast of Tasmania

Launceston was over way too soon. I had found a city that I felt a connection with. So much historic and interesting architecture, natural beauty, and food to keep me happy for a very long time. The Tamar Valley alone could fill our weekends for a whole year. Did I mention there is also a very good whisky distillery? What I hadn’t known at the time, but found out since is that Launceston is also home to a tram. Despite the last official line closing in 1952, there is still a tram you can board for short tours, courtesy of the Launceston Tramway Museum, set up to keep the history alive from the days when trams criss crossed this beautiful city.

We were travelling a little further than a tram could take us today, heading east of Launceston to our next destination of Bicheno. Taking the scenic route, is there any alternative whilst travelling in Tasmania, and going via the Bay of Fires. We packed up the backpacks, loaded the bullet, and bid a fond farewell to the Red Feather Inn. Somewhere we would definitely return to.

Today was about arriving, rather than returning, and we were headed for Bicheno (pronounced Bish-u-No), on the east coast. As luck would have it, our visit to the east coast of Tasmania was coinciding with the Great Eastern Wine Week. Who knew? What started out as a long weekend to celebrate the wine growers of the region became so popular that there is a whole week dedicated to it. And, as you may have heard, we have always enjoyed celebrating wine.

Lunch stop in St Helens

Before wine there is coffee and I had my second of the day with a good eggs and bacon lunch at the Life Buoy café in St Helens, a small village just a few kilometres shy of Binalong Bay. Binalong Bay is the heart of the “Bay of Fires”, the area so called for the fires of the Aboriginals that were spotted from the passing ships of early European explorers. We called in at Binalong Bay for the views. Dramatic wind swept coastal views right across the bay. And some excellent beaches too that would need a warner day than we had to fully enjoy.

Back in the car, and warm again, we drove an hour south, along the coast, to Bicheno, a small coastal town with a population of just over 800 people. I was immediately taken by how much this reminded me of some of the villages on the west coast of New Zealand. A friendly feel as soon as you arrived. Taking a walk later in the day, the dark clouds drew in and brought the rain. Perfect fish and chips weather. Although, I have used that excuse on a glorious sunny day in summer too!

Where to get fish and chips in Bicheno

When it comes to fish and chips you have two options right on the coast in Bicheno. The Lobster Shack and the rather more rustic (scruffy) looking Tasmanian Coastal Seafoods. We chose the latter and Mrs C’s face was a picture when we ordered at the front counter. The small space looked like a dilapidated kitchen and there were more dead flies in the counter then there were fish.

However, we had read the reviews, trusted our instincts, ordered the food, and bought a couple of beers to while away the 30 minute wait. Yes, they were busy, despite the decor. I think the waiting room was actually the indoor restaurant area. In the cold wet evening it looked derelict but for the other patrons hunched over in their padded jackets and woolly hats.

Some 40 minutes later our takeaway arrived and we were back in the car, driving through the rain, the short drive back to the apartment. And the verdict? Very good fish and chips. Not quite the quality of Blakeley’s in Brighouse, but this is Australia. When it comes to fish and chips you have to lower your standards a little.

Time to sample the Great Eastern Wine Week

As the sun shone brightly on our second day in Bicheno we drove out to visit a couple of vineyards to celebrate Great Eastern Wine Week. First up, Devil’s Corner, in the midst of a large renovation that will bring a large new restaurant, outdoor seating area and enhanced cellar door experience. For now we opted for a flight of 3 wines to sample in the makeshift tent, doing a great job shielding us from the cold wind whipping off the sea.

Craigie Knowe vineyard, a little further along the road, had a ticketed event and we (Mrs C) had the foresight to get tickets. There was a live band, food truck, pop up patisserie, local beer stall, and all the Craigie Knowe wines to sample. This time we simply opted for a glass each. We picked up a chocolate éclair and a cheesecake (small, obviously), standing in the sun listening to the music. 

There was a great turnout and I am always pleased to see small local businesses doing well in a time when 70% of their tourism has dropped off. These tourists come from the state of Victoria, of which Melbourne is the state capital. They are currently doing it very tough in COVID and are unable to travel outside the state. I am sure West Australians alone are not making up the difference in tourist numbers to Tasmania but we are doing all we can to help.

Bicheno Beams

The small town of Bicheno was doing well in attracting people despite it being the end of winter and the fact there is a pandemic. And winter here in Tasmania is cold. Despite the cold, each night the locals put on a laser and music show at 6.45pm. This evening there was also a sausage sizzle in aid of the local kids raising funds to build a skate park. We bypassed the sausage sizzle and picked up a couple of pizzas whilst walking home from the laser show. Slowly sipping tonight’s choice of Tasmanian whisky nightcap I was left to reflect on another great day, sadly a day closer to the end of the trip.

Time for Triabunna

Our last night in Tasmania was to be spent in Triabunna, small coastal town with a population of 874. Our accommodation was a tiny renovated cottage on an old orchard, Rostrevor. A book in the cottage provided a fascinating potted history of the orchard and the people who worked there over the years.

From what I had read about Triabunna there were two things worth doing. One was get the boat over to Maria Island, for which we had no time, and the other was to visit the Fish Van. I kid you not. The Fish Van is fast becoming a tourist attraction in its own right. Whilst having a whisky and gin tasting at the excellent Spring Bay distillery, it was recommended to us for dinner. It seems we were having our second fish and chips of the holiday.

Now, let me manage your expectations. This really is a van. Selling fish. And chips. So, this is what we had for dinner. And were they as good as the ones in Bicheno? Well, the fish was bigger. This always gets extra marks from me. The chips were similar. Typical Aussie chips. More like French fries than what I get served up in the UK. All up, a very good dinner, for $12 each, which was a lot cheaper than the ones a couple of nights ago.

Dinner finished, we spent the rest of the evening keeping warm in the cottage, finishing the bottle of Pinot Gris that we had started with dinner. My nightcap, the final one of the trip, was from Fannys Bay, back up on the North East coast. I added a couple of drops of water to bring out the flavour. This was one of the nicest whiskies I had had. And I had a few. Not peaty, yet I could taste something coming through. Maybe a hint of smoke. I just wish I had bought a bigger bottle.

The Final Day of the Tasmanian Road Trip

Thankful this morning that I hadn’t drunk a whole bottle of whisky, we had breakfast in the cottage. Simple vegemite on toast and a couple of strong coffees before hitting the road again. We opted for a light breakfast knowing that we had lunch booked for 12pm at Frogmore Creek Estate on the outskirts of Hobart. We broke up the journey in Sorrel with a coffee at the excellent Uncle Alby’s. Only open for the last 6 months, the barista told me they had built up quite a local clientele. Thankfully, the lack of interstate tourists wasn’t hitting them too hard. With coffee this good, I sense a good future for this little local business. 

Lunch was a little more grand. Sat in the restaurant at Frogmore Creek, over looking the vines, with the sun hitting the windows, we were served with some delicious food. We shared a portion of the scallops and then shared a couple of main dishes, splitting the beautiful pork belly and lamb back strap between us. A glass of Cabernet Sauvignon finished things off perfectly.

And back to Hobart

Then, the holiday was finished off. We dropped the bullet back off at Bargain Rentals with Amit refusing to check the car over and telling Mrs C that he would “be in touch if there was anything wrong”. He was dealing with the wrong woman, people. She told him, in no uncertain terms that there was nothing wrong and that she did NOT expect to be hearing from him. I hid outside, minding the bags.

A pint in the Customs House pub on the the waterfront, killed a little time before jumping in an Uber to the airport. We managed a short visit to the business class lounge (it only opens 1 hour ahead of your flight departing), and then we were on our way home. With a time difference of -2 hours in Perth, we landed at 10.30pm And tomorrow? Back to work and a check of the calendar for when we can next get away.

Hobart to the North Coast

The weekend flew by and before we knew it it was Monday morning and sadly time to leave Hobart. This meant we needed a hire car, and after searching for quite some time the cheapest I could find was Bargain Rentals. The clue, reader, is in the name.  Did I tell you I was from Yorkshire?

However, Amit was very friendly when we went to collect our car, and he did have a very warm office. Very warm. And he was wearing multiple layers. Now, I know it was still the back end of Winter but the office was like a sauna. Not somewhere you want to linger and spend some time debating the merits of purchasing additional insurance, or a GPS. By the way, does anybody seriously use these nowadays? With Google Maps programmed we were heading north from Hobart.

Our Trusty Steed

It may not have had built in GPS, but I had Google Maps. The car did have electric windows so that was a start. Mrs C described it as a bullet and I wasn’t sure if that was a compliment or not. I just hoped it would safely take us around Tasmania for the next 7 nights.

Our First Vineyard in Tasmania

So far so good with the bullet and just over 3 hours after leaving Hobart we were rolling into the car park of Ghost Rock winery on the north coast. We were booked in for a wine tasting and then lunch. Lunch was outstanding and from the wine tasting we each picked a glass to complement our food. Tasmania was quickly taking on a theme and it centred around food and drink.

A short drive from Ghost Rock, along the coast, was to be our home for the next two nights. The Cove. And let me tell you, it is breathtaking. I hadn’t booked it, trusting this job to Mrs C, and was unsure of what to expect.

And then there was The Cove

We got a very friendly welcome from Kim on reception who is part of the family that has farmed the land for generations and The Cove is the latest addition to the landscape. Only open since March 2021, this is luxury redefined. The exposed cliff top has been transformed into three luxury en suite chalets, two glamping tents and five separate cabins with shared facilities. There is a main building, called the Alexander Center that houses a massive luxury kitchen, a huge, warm lounge, and plenty of outside seats, strategically placed around the fire pit.

The weather was wild and blustery the two nights that we spent there. And this was perfect from my point of view. Shielded from the weather, wind and rain hammering against the windows, glass of wine in hand, safe and secure. On the second night I even took a bath, with views out across the Bass Straight as I had a long soak.

The morning started with a short walk along the cliff top, contemplating what we were making of Tasmania so far. And it was overwhelmingly positive. Such a beautiful, very accessible country. Short drives, which makes a nice change from driving in Western Australia, and such lush scenery. Many times we remarked on how much it reminded us of certain parts of the UK.

Hell yes, to Hellyers

Did I mention that Tasmania has quite the reputation for whisky? Well, just along the coast from The Cove is the highly regarded Hellyers Road Distillery, so obviously I booked us in for a visit. We actually had lunch, which was very good, before I indulged in a flight of their best whiskies. Thankfully, today I wasn’t the skipper so didn’t have to worry about driving us home. After seeing the size of the whiskies I breathed a sigh of relief.

Pick up a Penguin

Ok, not a reference that everyone will get, but I am sure many of the UK readers will. If you are in Australia, think Tim Tams.

Driving west from the Cove, along the road that hugs the coast, we followed the train line as it snaked along to Penguin. An actual town called Penguin, with a population just under 4000 people. First settled in 1861, it was named Penguin by the botanist Ronald Campbell Gunn, for the many penguins that inhabit this part of the coast.

Penguin has a lovely feel to it, strolling from the church at one end, past the local library, with current restrictions of 8 people at any one time, and serendipitously onto the Penguin Beer Co.

Beer o’clock in Penguin

Loving both penguins and beer, we could not resist calling in. And it turns out our timing was perfect. The bar had only been open for 7 weeks. A large, modern looking fit out, with a wide range of Penguin beers on tap. We went for the Pale Ale and a Session Ale, took a seat by the window, and slowly supped whilst watching the waves crash up against the shore.

I think Penguin Beer Co is in for a successful run. There is nothing else in the small town quite like it and the “kids eat free” on Tuesdays offer is sure to bring the mums and dads in. Open mic night on Wednesdays could have tempted me but, alas, we had to move on.

Launceston

We were heading south, to Launceston, but not before calling in at Tasmania Food and Wine conservatory just off the A1. The building first caught our eye as we passed a couple of days earlier and being almost time for “elevenses” we swung in to the car park. In the middle of nowhere, you would expect it to be quiet, right? Think again. This, my friends, is Australia through the pandemic. Unable to travel internationally, most people are holidaying at home, meaning you often can’t get in anywhere without making a booking months in advance. But here?

Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory

We walked in just after 11am and immediately my heart sank. Tables full of reserved signs. On closer inspection these were mainly for lunch so we were able to grab a table just for a coffee and a cup of tea. Mrs C had also spied the jam donuts so it wasn’t long before she had a dusting of sugar all around her mouth. The coffee was excellent as was the whole interior. Gourmet Tassie foods galore, but what caught my eye, and will come home with me, were the small bottles of Hobart whisky.

Whisky Galore

Tasmania has rightfully now got a global reputation for whisky, (I may have mentioned it), after being put on the map by Sullivan’s Cove. There are now distilleries the length and breadth of the country and I was doing my best to try them all. Next up, Launceston Distillery. Located a short 10 minute drive south of Launceston, next to the airport, in Hangar 17, this was a slice of Tasmania whisky culture served up in a big dash of Australian aviation history. 

Last used as the hangar for the now defunct Ansett Airlines, Chris Condon the head distiller has made it home. Having worked at some of the major whisky distilleries in Tasmania, Chris moved home to Launceston and started his own. And he is doing good. He gave us a talk on the history of the airfield, which started out as a grass paddock runway, right through to the present day, with Launceston Distillery producing a range of single malt whiskies. Having been guided through a tasting of 5 of their best I made my purchase. A whisky matured in tawny port casks. Delicious. 

Exploring the city of Launceston

Launceston is about an hour’s drive from where we started out this morning, Devonport, on the north coast. It is Tasmania’s second city after the state capital, Hobart. Within minutes of walking around we were immediately in awe of the architecture. Such beautiful, grand old buildings. On every block. And trying to count the number of churches was like being back in Adelaide. When my pal, Mr Walker, gets a final count I would love to hear the number. (Update: I believe there are in excess of 60).

Red Feather Inn

Not being the religious type, I hunted down a glass of wine instead, and Mojo’s fit the bill. A tasty lamb gozleme and a glass of local Pinot noir, we were up and running. Tonight we were staying at the very highly acclaimed Red Feather Inn. Again, it may surprise you, but this was not one of my bookings. A collection of historic convict built sandstone buildings dating from 1842, they have now been transformed into a luxury boutique bed and breakfast. Our home for the next couple of nights was to be “The Loft” room. And it was delightful.

There is also a restaurant on site and we had ourselves booked in for dinner on the second night. The first night we indulged at Black Cow Bistro in Launceston city centre. And what an indulgence. We shared the 1kg Longhorn special. Medium rare. Being the designated driver I had a glass of Cabernet Merlot whilst Mrs C started with a glass of bubbles and pushed on with a couple of glasses of local Syrah. Impeccable food and impeccable service. Highly recommended. 

Night two in Launceston was a little closer to home. Literally. We walked down the steps from our room, “The Loft”, came outside and entered next door. In a converted barn, with only three tables immaculately laid out for dinner service. Having a reputation that means you have to book in advance to get a seat, the restaurant at Red Feather is something that will be long remembered. 

A set four course meal started with an amuse bouche before moving onto an entree of quail. Quail is something I have only recently discovered and this was an exceptional dish. Unsure what the etiquette was for stripping every morsel from the tiny bones, I was pleased to see my fellow diners each with bones in their hands. Main was a sous vide steak cooked to medium rare perfection, and paired beautifully with the bottle of local Pinot Noir. How they cook the steak so well is beyond me but my only job was to enjoy it. Which I did. Did I also have room for the decadent chocolate torte dessert? You bet I did. 

In and around Launceston

Exploring Launceston is a delight and it soon became my favourite city in Tasmania. On the edge of town is Cataract Gorge, somewhere we had been recommended to visit. And the visit was worth it just to have a trip on the longest single span chairlift in the world. Something one of us enjoyed more than the other. Mrs C was not impressed when the chair stopped suddenly, just as we were at our highest point over the river.

Tamar Valley

Tasmania is rightly famous for its quality wines as much as it is the whisky. And much of the wine comes from Tamar Valley. A short 30 minute drive from the city and we were sat in Moores Hill winery, having a tasting and a platter lunch. With the sun shining off the river and with views down rolling hills and across the vines, we raised a glass and shared how grateful we were.

Heading East and part 3 of the Road trip

Rolling out of Launceston towards the next stage of our holiday, exploring Tasmania’s east coast, and the numerous wineries, we were left counting our blessings to have already had the best part of a week exploring this beautiful part of Australia.

The best bit? We still have time left to find some more whisky distilleries. 

Finally, back to the airport

A short ride from home, we made it to the Qantas domestic terminal at Perth airport in good time. Not that we needed to worry. A bag drop. A fast transfer through security, with no queues (a “benefit” of COVID?), and we soon had a glass of Australian sparkling wine in hand, people watching. How good are airports for this? Not the sparkling wine, although that IS good. The people watching. Find me a better place to just sit and watch humanity go about its daily business. Fascinating.

We had a 13.00 flight from gate 18 at Qantas terminal 4. I had thought that our flight to little Tasmania, one of the only places we can visit without the need to quarantine upon return, would be quiet. After seeing people in the airport with red and black scarves I quickly reassessed. Due to the pandemic, changes had been made on the mainland and now folk were heading to Tasmania for the Aussie Rules. Called the AFL, this is a weird mash up of 1970s porn star outfits and Gaelic football. Truly odd. It turns out the “Bombers”, whoever they are, play in Launceston on Sunday.

74 weeks in Western Australia

After 74 weeks in Western Australia we were finally leaving her borders. Who knew it would be so long? Way longer than we planned when we landed in March 2020 on our last minute flight from Sydney. What we hoped would be a brief hiatus to our world travel plans has turned into an extended stay in Australia’s largest state. 

We have been very fortunate to be living in Perth through the worst of the pandemic. What is now disappointing is the hard line taken by the pocket dictator, state premier Mark McGowan. Whilst the federal government is looking to a way of living with COVID, and some state premiers providing glimmers of hope to their residents once vaccination levels reach 70% to 80%, McGowan remains defiant. 

Just this week he reiterated his stance. Saying publicly that he “will not tolerate” the thought of opening WA up to the rest of Australia whilst COVID is in the community. Regardless of vaccination levels. Looking out across the world, rather than the insular Western Australia view, and seeing parts of the world living normal lives, does cause me angst and frustration. I have travel in my soul. A deeply ingrained wanderlust. Take that away and you take a piece of me away with you. I want to be whole again and I am not sure how long I can resist the lure of foreign lands.

Masked up, and not

Masks are mandatory in the airport and for the full length of your flight. We were grateful for the wine in the airport, giving us a brief respite from the uncomfortable, annoying feeling of wearing a mask. Being able to only remove them to eat and drink, on the plane never had I taken so long over a tiny pasta dish and a glass of, too chilled, Merlot. Not wanting to return to the confines of the mask I had a second cold mini bottle of red. 

Still being winter, and seeing that the temperatures in Tasmania were markedly lower than those we had been having in Perth, a bit more wine won’t do me any harm. It should add an extra layer of insulation for when we get to Hobart.

Wheels down in Hobart

The flight was scheduled for over 3 hours and we had wheels down in Hobart, Tasmania at 6.41pm, some two hours ahead of Australian Western Standard Time. Back on the same time zone we had whilst living in Sydney, this could play havoc with the timings of the Premier League games we want to watch. 

Hobart is the capital of Tasmania and whilst we had visited before, for a long weekend, we had never ventured further. This time will be different. After two nights in the capital city we will pick up a car and go on a road trip for just over a week. We have many wineries and whisky distilleries on our itinerary. For those in the know, I am told Tasmania is a foodies paradise. We should be able to keep ourselves entertained then as we have been know to like a bit of food and wine. And, I am partial to the odd drop of whisky.

One whisky tasting down and I already know it is going to be a good holiday. Watch this space for updates…

Perth Point Zero

The State Buildings in Perth are situated at “Perth Point Zero”. The place where all distances from Perth, in Western Australia are calculated. Located in the heart of Perth CBD, and originally known as the Lands, Titles and Treasury buildings, the State Buildings brings three buildings together into one vibrant cultural destination offering bars, restaurants, a bookshop, spa, and the luxury hotel that is COMO The Treasury. Our home for the next two nights.

Awarded the title of The Best Hotel In Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific by Travel and Leisure in 2020, we had wanted to come and visit COMO The Treasury for some time.

Anyone for bubbles?

And so, we found ourselves arriving before noon to check in, demurring on the offer of complimentary bubbles, sure that we would enjoy it more, a little later. Right now, we were on the clock. At midday we had a date at the Fleur in the Royal on Wellington Street for our lunch of “Afternoon Bloom”. A modern take on high tea. Something a little different to our usual high teas.

The reception at COMO The Treasury is unlike any hotel I had ever been to. Granted I had never been to any of the other COMO properties around the globe, and before this weekend I didn’t even know any existed. A gentle fire burning against the back wall. No queues of people at check in, which I can tell you is a rarity for Perth. And there was no baggage. Anywhere. Which did confuse me a little. This was a hotel, right? A carefully curated collection of books and a couple of chaise longs completed the rather modern looking reception.

What I am trying to convey, I suppose, is that as soon as you cross the threshold from Cathedral Square, you really are entering a different world. A world where the sound seems to have been turned down. The colours are muted. And you feel a little like you are in a cocoon. And your bags? They magically find their way to your room to meet you there.

Arriving back at the COMO after lunch, we had a rather comical moment. There had been a change in staff since we had checked in earlier in the day and it caused a little confusion about whether we were arriving, or departing. After the room key was passed back and forth between Victoria and the concierge, we all established that we had checked in earlier, and were in fact returning to the hotel. And yes, we would love a glass of bubbles.

A mini moon

This was our second attempt at staying at COMO The Treasury. The first weekend, which was a splurge to ourselves as we are unable to fly anywhere for our honeymoon, was a victim of COVID, and a snap lockdown across Perth. Undeterred, we were finally here, walking down the hushed corridor on the fourth floor, thick carpet absorbing all noise.

As we were shown into room 46, there are only 48 rooms in the whole hotel, we both did a short intake of breath. Without doubt the largest hotel room I had ever stayed in. Even larger than some apartments I had lived in. And that is a true story. Thankfully, there was an intercom to the bathroom so me and Mrs C could stay in touch.

It is the little touches

It is the case with hotels such as COMO The Treasury that discreet touches hint at the stay you are about to have. Understated luxury. Contemporary. Delicate slices of delicious Honeycake. A complimentary mini bar, replenished daily, offering beer from a local outfit made good, Little Creatures. Once of Fremantle, and now of the world. I even hear you can now buy cans of their finest beer in Waitrose, in the UK. We had fresh coffee and a bowl of apples so shiny that I suspect they get a polish when your room is made up. Talking of making the room up, returning later in the evening our room had been subject to the “turn down” service, with locally produced chocolates adorning our pillows.

And to the pool

Taking an apple for later, we donned our hotel bathrobes, discreetly embroidered with the hotel name, we headed out, and down a level on the grand staircase. The staircase wrapped around an old elevator shaft, which we were told was possibly the first ever elevator in Perth. Level 3 housed the swimming pool and steam room. There was also a gym but that was a level of exercise too far for us this weekend. A few laps in the pool and time spent in the steam room was strenuous enough.

Heading back to our room I had time for a long soak in the very large freestanding bath, silently contemplating how grateful I was to be here, in this moment, and thinking ahead to this evening, where we had a dinner reservation at the fabled Wildflower restaurant, situated on the top floor of the hotel, with views out across the Swan River and the expansive night sky.

What I need to say about dinner has to be reserved for a blog by itself. It was that good. That. Good. We had read about the Saturday dinner option being the 6 course degustation only. What we weren’t prepared for was how blown away by the quality we would be. Indulging in the matching wine option, it was our mini moon after all, we had possibly our best meal ever, and definitely our most expensive meal ever. Would I ever eat again?

This was answered in the morning. It would be a shame to miss the included breakfast. Wouldn’t it? Both mornings, breakfast was served in the excellent restaurant, Post, within the State Buildings. Mindful of how full I was yesterday I was planning to skip everything but the cooked breakfast. This was until I saw the freshly baked croissants and the bowls of fruit. I put the diet on hold, and dived right in.

Reality Bites

It only feels like last week that I collected the work laptop and rather reluctantly started my Perth working career. I say reluctantly as it is not what I expected to be doing. As you all know, and it has been well documented, we left Sydney intending to embark on an open ended trip around the world. 

With the next milestone birthday only a couple of years away it was time to step off the hamster wheel and take stock of what the next chapter would hold for us. As we changed seasons in life, what life did we want. Without the distractions of needing to work, and in the creative haven of changing world settings, we hoped to achieve a little bit of clarity. Only, we didn’t get to go.

My journal reminded me of the day last year when this dream took on a more permanent hiatus.

“Back to reality. It had to happen. Hopefully this 6 months of work will fly by.”

Time Flies

And they did. So much so that the following 6 months went just as quick and here I am into year two of my current role. In fairness, a lot has happened in that year. And my role has evolved into something that I am really enjoying. Working with the organization in making work a better place to be. Changing to a more modern, emergent way of working, where people have more autonomy and purpose. 

Coupled with this, having trained as a professional coach in the last 12 months, I am also able to blend this work in, allowing me to help even more people, on a one to one basis. Very satisfying. Being a vocation that I can do from anywhere in the world, coaching is an area that I see playing a big part of the future.

Will we ever see the back of COVID?

What the rest of the future holds, we really don’t know. Just this week we had another snap lockdown in Perth. 3 cases of COVID resulted in the state premier, Mark McGowan, slamming the whole of the Perth region into a 4 day lockdown. A circuit breaker, to “crush” the virus, as he never tires of telling us. I do wonder where the right balance is when I see the sharp increase in cases across the UK and yet there are thousands allowed at the football, jumping all over each other in drunken delirium as England progress.

And one of the poster childs of early COVID success, Israel, also living life as normal whilst their own numbers are on a sharp incline. I guess what both these examples are showing us is that getting everyone vaccinated is key. The only way to move from a suppression strategy to one of management, which is the pivot the Australian government made this week.

All well and good if we get people vaccinated. Currently we have only around 6% of the whole population vaccinated. Which is just not good enough. We were looked on with envy from around the world as we lived our lives in relative freedom over the last 12 months. And this bred complacency. Why rush the vaccine? Why should anyone in the lucky country get vaccinated? So, the government did not make this a priority.

A glimmer of hope

Now, with most of Australia suffering lockdowns, with each state struggling with containing the new Delta variant, we now look wistfully at those countries that have really cracked on with getting people vaccinated. In Australia we have got a bad case of catching up to do. And catching up is what the government says we will do. With a new target (about the tenth we have had) of having the majority of people vaccinated by Christmas, there remains a glimmer of hope that the borders will open for international travel next year. 

Magnificent Margaret River

In the meantime, we will continue to do what we do best. Exploring all the best that Western Australia has to offer. Which last weekend meant another trip to Margaret River. Somewhere I have written about previously. Quite possibly, close your ears in Europe, the best wine region in the world. The quality of wines are hard to beat and the region has everything. Some great beaches hugging a wild coastline and inland there are forests that need to be seen to be believed. Magical. The Boranup Forest will forever hold a place in our hearts.

This trip we had the opportunity to stay at Barn Hives. We were in one of only 6 self-sustainable luxury-eco pods, based in Yallingup, at the top end of the Margaret River region. Very convenient for a great dinner at the nearby historic Caves House Hotel. Even more convenient was the Cape Lavender cafe next door, serving up quite possibly some of the best scones I have ever had. And I have had a lot. That said, I have yet to try the legendary Mrs B’s high tea, the talk of Yorkshire. Maybe if we ever get to leave Australia.

Lunched is served

Whilst in Margaret River we took the opportunity to have a long lunch at Wills Domain. Not quite as long as the 4 hour chef’s table the people behind us were enjoying. I am sure with every course they ate, the ladies’ stool just got lower and lower. A very heavy handbag. Apparently.

Our lunch started off with a glass of obligatory bubbles. The Wills Domain Cuvée d’ Élevage Chardonnay Pinot Noir. Made in the champagne style, and much to the chagrin of winemakers outside of France, unable to call it so. The food that followed was delicious, as was the 2019 “Eightfold chardonnay” that we chose to have with lunch.

Margaret River cellar doors

There are over 100 cellar doors to choose from across the entire Margaret River region and we are on a mission to try every one of them. We visited 7 new ones on this trip bringing our total visits up to 45. A few more trips required to tick off the whole 100. Not that you will find either of us complaining.

So, whilst we navigate the end of our current lockdown, I will get out the map and start planning which vineyards to visit next. Until we can next raise a glass to the good life in Margaret River.

Salut!

As the heat increased, sweat pooling around my eyes,  I wondered how much longer this would go on for. How long I could go on for. It was getting hard to breathe. It felt as though we had been in here for hours. Close your eyes, I told myself. Breathe slowly. 

“Smell the cedar?”, asked Victoria? “How good is this? This is what we paid for.”

Paid for? Yes, indeed, we had paid for this experience. Having our own sauna, small and, rather aptly, wine barrel shaped, outside the room we were staying in was definitely a benefit.

Swan Valley Retreat

The Swan Valley Retreat is nestled in the Henley Brook area of the valley, some 25 minutes drive from the city of Perth. Having just two rooms makes Swan Valley Retreat an exclusive staycation. One that we had to wait 5 months for, due to the demand of the people of Western Australia holidaying at home. In truth, we don’t have that many options. Holiday here this year remains as relevant as it was over a year ago, when the pandemic hit. And so it was, we found ourselves checking in for a couple of nights in May.

The retreat’s only two rooms are quaintly named Cabernet and Merlot. Separated by a day spa, each room has a large outdoor seating area, perfect for that first, and second coffee of the morning. There is a private spa bath (jacuzzi) for lazy afternoons. On arrival we were presented with a fabulous looking platter of meats, cheeses, and fruit, together with an icy bottle of bubbles. A perfect way to start our relaxing weekend.

Swan Valley Wine Region

Thankfully for those of us based in WA, we have world class venues and destinations literally on our doorstep. And the Swan Valley region is one such location. The home of WA’s oldest vines, and the second oldest wine region in Australia, Swan Valley has been growing grapes since 1829. The warm Mediterranean climate is perfect for white wines such as verdelho and chenin blanc, whilst the reds of shiraz, grenache, and petit verdot are as good as you will taste.

There are some great food options to go with your wine. Sittella winery is one such option. It has a restaurant overlooking their vines and we indulged in a very good lunch which included dishes of lamb rack and grilled barramundi. We complemented the meal with Sittella’s wine, starting with a glass of the excellent bubbles, the sparkling chenin blanc, followed by an rather tasty cabernet sauvignon.

High tea in Swan Valley

Sunday speaks more to high tea, and where better than Cottage Tea Rooms, advertising “the best scones in the valley”. And who am I to argue? Granted, I do spend a lot of time searching for the best high teas in Australia. And the little warm delights served up were delicious. What I would give for places in Australia to provide authentic clotted cream, yet this is a minor criticism.

Something nobody can criticise about the Swan Valley is the sheer number of quality eating and drinking options. Mandoon Estate offers not only a cellar door for tasting, a fine dining restaurant, a brewery, and an outdoor “Garden Bar”, but also, its very own hotel, “The Colony”. You could happily spend a weekend at Mandoon Estate without ever leaving the vast grounds.

Breweries seem to have proliferated in recent years in WA, and Swan Valley is no exception. In addition to the one at Mandoon Estate, there is also Mash Brewery, Elmar’s, Henley Brook, Duckstein, and the newest member, Bailey’s Brewery which sports the tagline, “It is simple really”. And it is. With them all offering quality brews and food, all you need to do is decide which to visit. And my advice would be to book ahead. Despite many options, and them all being quite large, they book out very quickly.

Reflecting on a great staycation

Suitably fed, we retired back to our accommodation at Swan Valley retreat. With a bottle of that excellent Sittella sparkling chenin blanc we watched the last of the day’s light turn to a carpet of stars from the private outdoor spa that comes with the room. All we had to do was sit back and work out the plan for tomorrow. Where would we have lunch after starting the morning in the sauna. Would we opt for hop or vine? In the Swan Valley you truly are spoilt for choice. No sweat.