Explore with Fran

Join me on the journey as I travel, eat, and drink my way around the world

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What happened to Peru? – part 2

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What happened to Peru, I ask myself? My last post had us at the end of my short stay in Arequipa, my first stop in Peru. I had heard so much about Peru, that I came with very high expectations. Maybe too high. Depending on which direction people were travelling in, seemed to influence their thoughts on the countries they had visited in South America.

Peru – Great sights, great food

This wasn’t just the case for Peru. Everywhere I went, and the travellers I met, whether they were coming south from Colombia, or north from Chile, people could not say enough good things about the place. Everywhere else it seemed paled into comparison. Bumping into road weary travellers who had come from Bolivia, they told me that anywhere that had a good bus service and decent food was Utopia.

The Best of South America

I had travelled around and up through Argentina, a country that I absolutely love. A couple of weeks in Chile, including a blissful 4 days in Iquique, combined with Argentina probably wasn’t the best preparation for my introduction to Peru. I had become spoiled by two of the jewels of South America. So Peru didn’t make the immediate impression on me that I expected.

Puno, from afar

Puno – not good for the senses of a tired traveller

And things didn’t get any better when rocking into Puno after a 6 hour bus journey from Arequipa. What a hole Puno is and if it wasn’t for the fact that it nestles the shores of Lake Titicaca, I doubt it would get any visitors at all.

Budget accommodation In Peru at its “best”

I got a taxi from the bus station and joylessly stared out the windows as I was driven to my hostel, Pirwa Backpackers. As with a lot of “budget” accommodation, I got a bad first impression of Pirwa, but the two days I had there were uneventful enough for me to forget my initial negative impression of the place. That said, there were no social areas so I didn’t see any other backpackers, and the breakfast was beyond perfunctory.

Lake Titicaca and the floating villages

But the purpose of my visit was to get out to Lake Titicaca and see the floating villages, which I did on day 2. A half day boat trip ticked all my boxes and I thoroughly enjoyed the excursion, and knowing that this is how the islanders make their money, I had fun bartering with the locals as they displayed their wares. I did think to myself though, “Who would ever buy one of those mobile decorations?”, and I had my answer later that evening when meeting Vix and Hannah for dinner. You dumped them yet girls?

Where has the guinea pig gone? First time eating cuy

Whilst in Puno I also managed to tick off another item off my South American “must do” list. Eat cuy. Or more commonly known at home as guinea pig. I had to admit, it wasn’t a thought I relished but it was something I knew I had to try whilst in Peru so in i walked and order guinea pig and chips. I kid you not. And the all important question. What did it taste like? Yup, you guessed it. Chicken. Seriously!

Can you guess what it is yet

Time to move on to Cusco – home of the Incas

Another night in the soulless hostel and we were ready to move on. To a place that I was genuinely excited about. Cusco. Home of the Incas and gateway to Machu Picchu. As I boarded the 7.30am Inka Express to Cusco I had the sudden realisation that I was soon going to be visiting one of the greatest places in the world, one that I had thought about for many years.

Ah, Mendoza and Malbec!!

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My time in Bariloche came to an end and I was on the road again. This time to Mendoza. A place I have wanted to visit for many years, mainly down to my predilection for Malbec wine. And so it was, I was meeting my Canadian friend Leah and we were heading to the bus station.

Getting to Mendoza from Bariloche

This was a 17 hour bus trip and the bus operators way of making you forget the length is to play bingo. More specifically “Bingo Andesmar” in honour of the bus operator. Now, have you ever tried to play bingo when the numbers are called out in a foreign language? Not easy I can tell you. However, as the game went on the tension, and excitement increased. I was just 2 numbers short. Come on, come on. Alas, it wasn’t to be, my luck was out.

Arriving in Mendoza in the morning

And in the blink of an eye, we were in early morning Mendoza, in the hustle and bustle of the bus station. Fortunately, our hostel was only a 10 minute walk. And the hostel turned out to be the best yet. Hostel Lao if you are ever in Mendoza. Chilled music, hammocks in a quiet garden in which there was a small pool.

And the best breakfast in any hostel hands down. Fresh pastries, fresh grapefruit juice (amazing!) and in the evening, free Malbec. Yes folks, free Malbec. To the extent that one night we had 3 bottles before heading out for dinner.

Malbec fuelled decisions

In the hostel, besides myself and Leah we met Richard and Alison again from our trip up Ruta 40 to Bariloche. Over Malbec we decided to do the cycling tour of the wineries in the morning and Grace, from Holland, decided to come too so the 5 of us were up early and off on the bus to wine country.

Cycle Tour of the Mendoza Vineyards

The day was fantastic. We cycled around 4 wineries, having tastings at each. Stopping for a picnic lunch in the shade of some trees to escape the scorching Mendoza sun. Thankfully Leah had worn her overcoat for the ride. Otherwise known as factor 60 sun screen. Seriously folks, factor 60. Apparently they make factor 80 but at this point I was convinced I was being subject to a bit of Canadian humour. However, the red knees that were on display over wine in the evening would suggest that the factor 60 was not fastidiously applied!

Wine fuelled pizza party

We managed to see a real cross section of wineries from an independent family owned one, one owned by Carmelo Patti (apparently quite famous in these circles) and a couple of bigger ones. I made a purchase of a bottle of Pinot Noir which I shared over dinner with a group of us who had a pizza party. And the more the wine flowed, the weirder the conversation got. There was an Aussie, a Dutch, an American, English, Canadian and a German. The conversations ranged from subjects as bizarre as dolphins being gay sharks, their tendency to partake in group rape and a particularly disturbing story of an eyelash-stroking fetish! I kid you not.

Seeing the “real” Mendoza

Whilst in Mendoza we also got the opportunity of meeting a friend of Leah’s who is a Mendoza resident. She was able to show us the “real Mendoza”. We had the usual late start and headed out to Alameda district for drinks and live street music. The conversation was good, the beer very cold and before we knew it it was 4.30am. And people were still ordering drinks. However, we called it a night, walked home and I was safely tucked up in bed for 5am.

Cycling the vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina

The day after the night before

Needless to say, the following day was a relaxing one. Mooching around Mendoza, sitting in leafy plazas with my book, sipping coffee at sidewalk cafes, and generally watching the world go by. I had slipped into Mendoza time, where time drifts and drifts and drifts.

And it drifted for 4 days because before I knew it, it was time to leave and head to Santiago. This is the point the people started heading off in different directions with just myself and Grace on the 10.30am bus to Santiago de Chile, through the awesome Andes mountains. But that is for another blog.

And I couldn’t leave without posting a picture of a steak from Mendoza.

Until the next time, chau.

Last minute reflections – Cambodia

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So my final day arrives, and it is time for my last minute reflections on the trip to Cambodia. Funny how it always seems like just yesterday you were sat in an airport despite how long your trip has been. Time has a funny way of doing that to you. Through the ups and downs (and let’s not kid ourselves, there are downs – remember the night I saw my pizza twice in Sihanoukville?), it seems that you have been away forever. But then, like magic, you are back in the airport again and the whole adventure is over!

Moto, sir?

It has been a great adventure though. And like all my trips to Asia it always takes a day or two to readjust from the little cocoon we live in in the West. To reacquaint yourself to the sights, sounds, and smells of Asia. Yes, you do forget that the streets have piles of rotting garbage, that the heat gets unbearable and that if you hear “moto sir?” one more time you will go stir crazy. But after those first couple of days, when you are back in the groove, you find yourself chatting and having fun with the moto drivers, and complaining that you are too cold because of the air-con.

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh was a real highlight, I think I really benefitted from having a couple of days at the start of the trip and then 2 more to finish up at the end. Walking through the city’s streets yesterday, seeing all the old buildings, I really got a feel what it might have been like when it was king of Indochine and described as the “Pearl of Asia”.

Kampot – worth a visit for more than just pepper

I loved Kampot and the slow pace of life down by the river. Oh, and did I mention the great pizzas? :-). Siem Reap has an unfair advantage, with the amazing temples of Angkor Wat on it’s door step, but I also really enjoyed the town, better appreciated once the floods had gone of course.

That leaves Sihanoukville. And with hindsight I wish I had. Left Sihanoukville that is! Shabby town! Shabbier beaches! And city bars owned by middle aged European perverts unable to find a wife at home in Germany.

Wrapping up my last minute reflections

So, to wrap up my last minute reflections on Cambodia. A fantastic trip. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Great locals, great food and great happy hours!