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Docking in Dubrovnik

We docked in Dubrovnik and left the boat, arriving in a throng of taxi drivers. Not knowing where we were going, but knowing we couldn’t afford luxuries such as taxi cabs, we marched out of the dock and along the main road. My hypothesis was that we would find a bus stop. Eventually. 

Why all the Game of Thrones merchandise

And we did. A short while later we were paying the 15 Kuna each for the ride to the Old Town. Stopping at Pile Gate, the entrance, we dug out the directions for our accommodation. Dominus Little Palace. As we negotiated the cobbled streets of the Old Town I couldn’t help noticing all the shops selling Game of Thrones merchandise. I wondered what it was all about. 

Dubrovnik has steps. Many of them. Over 5000 in the Old Town alone according to the receptionist at the hotel. We had just lugged our bags up almost a hundred of them to reach our room. Never did that first cold beer taste so good. 

Dubrovnik old town is a fortified town. And indeed it does resemble Korčula in its layout and how they both cling to the water. The fortified walls that encircle the old town are some of the best preserved in the world. The 250 kuna to climb, and walk the walls, is expensive, but we soon realised that everything is expensive in Dubrovnik. And so we found ourselves taking in the best views of the city.

Croatia and the cost of living

When looking at where we might travel when we left Australia, we envisaged that whilst Europe would undoubtably be expensive, we thought costs would drop significantly when we reached certain countries.  Croatia was one of these countries. And, boy, were we wrong. When we first arrived from Barcelona, into Split, we immediately saw our cost of living rise. When I say “cost of living”, the benchmark we have is, how much is a beer or wine. And how much is a main course for dinner. This tells us whether it will be a “one glass of wine night”, or two.

Beer with a view

There are some great places to grab that wine, or beer, whilst in Dubrovnik, and none more stunning than Bard Mala Buza. Reached through an unmarked door in the city walls, you descend down stone steps, literally on the edge of the water. The views are stunning. And the price of drinks eye watering. But, this is one experinece that you must have whilst in Dubrovnik. You will forget the price long before you forget the memory.

The Walk of Shame

Strolling around the old town, and being within earshot of the many, many tour guides, we soon discovered what all the fuss with Game of Thrones was about. And if you are a fan, you will already know. If you are like us, and not seen the TV show, it turns out that much of it was filmed right here, in Dubrovnik. This explained why the staircase we tried to get a picture of was so popular. Something to do with a walk of shame.

The steps of Dubrovnik

If you need to walk, Dubrovnik is your place. From a flat centre, the “fish bone” spikes off into the alleyways, each a steep set of stairs. This has the effect of the town being on multiple levels. Up a flight of stairs, you find a new set of streets, lined with shops and restaurants. By the end of three days the 5000 steps seemed a stroll in the park to the step count we had accumulated.

Dubrovnik Beer Company

All this exercise is a great excuse for a beer. And a reason to leave the old town for a bit, showing that there is more to Dubrovnik than the tourist filled centre. We walked the 40 minutes back towards the port where we had arrived a couple of days earlier. Our destination was the Dubrovnik Beer Company, an unassuming brewery crafting some great beers. Yes, we paid way more than we would for the local beers we had happily been drinking, but it was great to try a couple of real craft beers. And they were good, especially the pale ale. We did think about getting food but alas, the BBQ truck wasn’t open.

Crossing the border into Montenegro

A short drive down the coast from Croatia and you are in the country of Montenegro, a place we had never visited. So we took the opportunity of a day trip, starting out from Dubrovnik at 6.30am and crossing the border, visiting both Kotor and Budva, in Montenegro. I am always up to add a new country to my list, I just wish the formalities at the border didn’t take quite so long. 

You have to cross two borders, with two kilometers of no mans land in between. By design. Leaving Croatia, the customs officer wanted to see the passport of every single passenger on the bus. Long and laborious. Two kilometers down the road, the Montenegran officer just needed a list of the passengers. Common sense.

Montenegro and the Euro

Once we had our passports stamped, on the way in, we stopped for coffee and the chance to get some money. In a quirk that is hard to explain, whilst Montenegro is not in the EU, the national currency is the Euro. Back in 1999 the local currency became so devalued that the government started accepting the German Mark. And in 2002 this changed again when people started accepting the Euro. Whilst never really being offically adopted, it has become the national currency.

Perast

Caffeinated, and with cash, we continued our drive along to the little town of Perast. A drive that was nothing short of spectacular. The road winds through a large bay, encircled by mountains on all sides. In Perast we got up even closer to the scenery, taking a short boat trip to the Our Lady of the Rocks island. 

Cats in Kotor

Back on the bus, our next stop was in the old town of Kotor. Not as large, or as visually appealing as Dubrovnik, but impressive all the same. The first thing you notice, walking around the old town is the number of cats. Dozens and dozens of them. The reason, apparently, is that there was a plague of rats in the 15th century and cats came to the rescue. They have been revered ever since. Never have I seen so many cat influenced souvenirs.

With the Russians in Budva

We avoided the cats and had a beer and a snack, planning to get some lunch at our last stop of the day, Budva. However, Budva disappointed. Driving in it looked like a concrete jungle. The tour guide explained that the town has been “developed” by Russians, who have built concrete hotel after concrete hotel. It really does spoil the look and feel of the town. Even the old town looked a little sorry for itself. After a wander through the streets, and along the sea, we still had time before the bus back to Dubrovnik. Beer time, then.

Pushing the Boat Out

The day flew by, and as we had feared, we once again got stuck at the Croatian border for almost an hour. Checking those passports again. As it was, we were still back in good time for a final dinner. At times on this trip, we have decided to treat ourselves. “Push the boat out”. Our final night in Croatia was one of these nights and we had a sensational dinner at Bota Sare Oyster and Sushi Bar. The wine was delicious and we toasted to a really good three weeks touring Croatia. A country that we have enjoyed and would highly recommend.

Goodbye Croatia

At the hotel, our alarm was set, and taxi booked to Dubrovnik airport for 6.30am. Time to head on to country number 12 since leaving Perth, and bed number 43. But, where will it be?

A Nervous Wait

So there we were, in the blazing sun, 30 minutes early for the bus back to Split. I had checked the bus ticket numerous times and verified where the bus stop was. Why did I feel so uneasy? It was probably due to the fact that this was the only bus today passing through Podgora, heading north. 

Nervously checking my watch I saw that it was 14.13, a minute before our scheduled bus service. As I glanced up I saw our bus. Relief turned to panic as the driver didn’t slow down, but wildly gesticulated something. But what? He certainly wasn’t stopping. Maybe the bus stop was further along the road and the driver was trying to tell me this. 

I chased after the bus, around the next bend in the road and glimpsed the bus heading off into the distance. Definitely not stopping. As my adrenaline subsided my emotions turned to anger and frustration. What are we supposed to do now?

So do we Have a Plan B?

Despondently, trudging back slowly to the bus stop, where Victoria still was, I wracked my brain. Had I got the right bus stop? Had the driver been distracted and going too fast to stop so he just ploughed on? Either way, we needed a new plan. And fast. We had a night booked in Split and a boat to Hvar tomorrow. 

With a creeping sense of deja vu we dragged our bags back the way we had only recently come from. Back to the hotel reception. They looked a little surprised to see us again and perhaps they wondered why we were checking back in so soon after leaving. Believe me, the food wasn’t quite that good.

Explaining the situation, our plan quickly took shape. A taxi from the hotel to the next big village, Makarska. From there, hopefully we could board a bus to Split. As the hotel called for a taxi I could feel my optimism rising. The rather exhorbitant taxi fee felt a small price to pay. As did the two hours sat in a desolate Makarska bus station, waiting for the next bus to Split. Perhaps we would be on that boat tomorrow. 

Back to Split

And we were. It felt good to spend another night in Split. Exploring the palace and having a great (second) final dinner in the city. We had booked a night in a simple, (read: no kettle), apartment, that was very central, and close to a laundrette. We would have clean underwear for the next part of our journey. As much as we enjoyed spending time in Split, we had places to be and at 11.30am the next day our boat pushed out of the harbour. Next stop, the island of Hvar. 

Hvar Island 

Hvar is one of the most well known of the Croatian islands. With a reputation as a party island. This wasn’t why we were going. It was October, the low season, and hopefully we would get to enjoy the beauty of the island without the rigmarole that comes with a place that is now “famous” on Instagram. 

We weren’t disappointed. Our 4 days on Hvar were fabulous. Staying in a great little apartment a short walk from the centre we had a great base to see much of the island. 

A day trip to the old town of Stari Grad (stari grad actually translates to old town), showed us a quieter side of Hvar. Narrow cobbled streets housing shops and restaurants. With few visitors, and much now closed for the season, it really felt as though time slowed down for the day.

Clothes Optional

Back in Hvar town the following day we jumped on a taxi boat and headed out to one of the only small islands still open, Jerolim. A tiny spot that reminded me of small islands in Thailand. Very reminiscent of what you may have seen in the movie, “The Beach”. Jumping off the boat and wandering through the trees we came to the beach. 

Yes, we had inadvertently (honest) come to a nudist beach for the day. A small inlet surrounded by ramshackle beach beds, we got comfy and tried our best to avert our eyes. There was naked flesh everywhere. Even a chap, who we later learned was from the very strict Dubai, stripped off and had his wife video him walking in and out of the sea, in his birthday suit. He must have felt very liberated. 

Culture Shock in Croatia 

Back on Hvar, and with everyone fully clothed, it was time for drinks. But first, we needed an ATM. Never in my life had I used cash machines so often. Especially in the last few years with many businesses in Australia going “cash free”. Not so in Croatia. It was rare to find places accepting card payments. We often had to check before ordering so we knew whether we had to find a cash machine before we could eat and drink. 

Another frustration was the proliferation of people.smoking inside. Yes. Inside. Like many places in Europe, smoking seems ubiquitous in Croatia. When I first spotted someone smoking in a cafe, as I strolled past, I did a double take. It look so incongruous. After many years of smoking inside being banned in the countries I had been living in. 

Exploring New Foods

That said, it is amazing what you get used to. And before long I had no trouble enjoying some of my new favourite foods. Burek for breakfast. And ćevapćići for lunch. Both delicious. And both filling. Travelling on a budget has a way of introducing you to local foods that ordinarily you may not try. 

As I finished my breakfast burek we headed to the port and our 10.10am boat to Korčula. Our island hopping continues with three nights on Korčula Island, often described as a mini Dubrovnik. Having not (yet) been to Dubrovnik we didn’t know what to expect. 

In keeping with our time in Croatia so far we know we will have good weather. Clear blue waters. And very good wine. Just as long as we can also find an ATM!

Korčula Island

We did find ATMs. Lots of them. We also found a beautiful island. Small. Pretty. And mercifully quiet of the hordes of tourists I expected. Cruise ships and boats do come into Korčula on a daily basis and come the evening the streets mostly clear and become an oasis. Walking along the city’s fortified walls, with a cool evening breeze, selecting a restaurant for dinner. 

Exploring the wine of Korčula 

Korčula is also renowned for its wine. In particular the Pôsip grape that makes very good white wine. We spent a day on a wine tour of the island, just four of us, visiting a number of very rural, and basic, cellar doors. The wine was a better quality than the wineries. That said, service was good and we had a very enjoyable day. 

Korčula old town is built in the fashion of a “fish bone” allowing for the winds to be redirected through the town. Dubrovnik is built on the same design as were to find out a few days later. 

It was in Korčula that I reignited my love affair with the ćevapćići. A meat lovers heaven. The number of sausages determined by whether you get small or large, the resulting sandwich keeps you full for the rest of the day. 

We really enjoyed our time on Korčula and would highly recommend it for a visit. As with all of Croatia there are heaps of accommodation options. Again, we booked a private apartment, being met by the owner Felip at the port with a “Victoria Harper” sign. He walked with us the short distance to what turned out to be an excellent apartment. With our own little courtyard for afternoon glasses of Posip. 

It wasn’t just wine we enjoyed in the courtyard. All travellers will know that your best friend, when it comes to a travelling budget, is the humble picnic. And many times we self catered, stocking up on bread, meats, cheeses, and more importantly, beer or wine. And as frugal as we are, or maybe it is how we have been brought up, we can’t throw anything away. In Korcula, this resulted in Victoria having a sandwich the size of a small football. Yes, for those of you wondering, she did finish it.

Back to the boat, Dubrovnik bound

Checking out, we had a final look around the apartment. Some of the places we stay I can’t wait to see the back of. This place, I could have happily stayed in. Perhaps getting a job selling ćevapćići. However, a rolling stone gathers no moss, and we had a boat to catch. We were leaving “mini Dubrovnik, and heading for the real thing.

After our jaunt across Spain, and up through Portugal, we were finally headed across the Adriatic sea and on to the Dalmatian coast. We had read, and heard, so much about the place that we decided it was time to see what all the fuss was about.

Adios, Spain, hello, Croatia

Our 6.30am flight from Barcelona landed in Split and we were on Croatian soil. It didn’t take long to see first hand what people mean when they talk about Balkan “customer service”.

As many people boarded the airport shuttle bus they attempted to pay the driver with Euros. A big mistake. The driver yelled at the naive travellers, throwing the euro notes down in apparent disgust, “Kuna! We are in Croatia. We have the kuna, not euro.”

I breathed a sigh of relief that we had the foresight to withdraw some of the beloved kuna in the airport, as we passed through to collect our bags. It was quite amusing to see so many people have the temerity to try and pay the exasperated driver in a currency that will not become fully accepted in Croatia until January 2023. This is when Croatia finally switches over, formally, to the euro as the national currency. Until then, my advice, get your kunas before trying to board a bus in Croatia.

Transport Troubles

Waiting for transport becomes a habit whilst travelling. Waiting longer than you would expect at home becomes second nature. So, stood in the early morning sunshine, outside Spilt airport, for an airport shuttle bus that had no timetable, was to be expected.

When it did finally arrive, there was a huge queue to get on. And as we see the world over, queuing does not seem to be a thing outside of England. People rock up, and trundle their cases past the long line of people obviously waiting for the same bus they intend to get. In fact, the only bus that all of us are getting on. The first few times it happens, we stay polite. And then we learn. When the bus opens its doors, we charge ahead, with the crowd. Arms and elbows everywhere, ensuring that we get on. And get seats together.

Sweet Dreams in Split

All aboard, our drive from the airport to Split city centre was short, and some 30 minutes later we were dragging our bags past the bus station cafes, luggage storage offices, and up a slight incline towards our accommodation for the next three nights. “Sweet Dreams” apartment. Since leaving home in Perth, this was to be bed number 36, in country number 10.

What we soon discovered in all of our travels through Croatia was that there are hundreds, if not thousands, of privately owned accommodation options. From simple rooms (Sobe), to apartments with all mod cons. We even struck gold on occasion, having our own kettle and a small fridge. There were times when the kettle was communal, in the hallway, serving a number of apartments., It became a trick to listen for when the kettle had boiled and someone had their morning brew. After a couple of minutes of silence I knew the coast was clear to go and make my first coffee of the day.

Sweet Dreams apartment in Split was one of the “posh” ones. We had our own kettle. Happy days. And like all the apartments we stayed in, it was more than adequate for our needs. I wouldn’t say we were “doing it in style”, but we had everything we needed. Clean sheets. Comfortable bed. Hot shower. We were well set up for the next three nights, exploring the wonderful city of Split.

Exploring the Diocletian Palace in Split

Split is the second largest city in Croatia and dates back to the 3rd century BC and is now famous for the Roman palace built in 305AD for the emperor Diocletian. The palace has been rebuilt over the years and is now a sight to behold. Dominating the riverfront in Split, you can spend hours losing yourself in the labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys of the palace. Around every corner you will find a restaurant or bar, allowing you respite from the hordes of cruise ship passengers that get disgorged onto the streets of Split every day.

A stroll along the “riva”, or riverfront, allows you to grasp the size and scale of Diocletian’s Palace. And the setting is jaw dropping. With the sun reflecting back off the white stone, contrasting against perfectly blue skies, with the impressive mountain range behind. 

Split is the perfect size to spend two or three days exploring, which is exactly what we did. It is a place that I would highly recommend, and when you are ready to move on, the port is on your doorstep, with ferries to the nearby islands.

Down the coast to Podgora

For us, the boats would be for another day. For today, the well served bus station, across the road from the port was where we were off to. We were headed south, by bus. Wanting to see as many sides of Croatia as we could, our next week was to be spent in a small village one and half hours south of Split. Podgora was somewhere we had discovered when researching “mini holiday” options in Croatia. For the next week we would be based at the Medora Family Hotel.

Thankfully, with it being towards the end of the season, there weren’t too many families. At least families with small people that make lots of noise. We had a great hotel in a small, quiet village that seemed very popular with Germans. Chatting with Vladomir, the hotel entertainment manager, we discovered that Croatia is the number one destination for holidaying Germans.

With great weather for most of the week, we spent our days with long morning strolls along the sea, followed by lazy days on the sun loungers. Victoria even managed a dip in the sea. The village still had enough beach bars open for our late afternoon beers, before dinner in the hotel. Our deal was half board, and whilst we didn’t go hungry that week, we didn’t get to taste the best of what Croatia has to offer on the dining scene, which is some excellent food. The self serve, drink as much as you want, wine definitely helped.

I will miss the gallons of wine that we consumed that week, but all good things come to an end. We bid our farewells to Vladomir, and the Germans, and were off with our bags again. Whilst most tourists had coaches organised to take them back to Split, we dragged our wheeled bags up to the local bus stop. At least, to where we thought the local bus stop was…

On reflection, I feel that we could have maybe stayed in Portugal a little longer. As with all of this year of adventure, we don’t really know what our plans are one week to the next. And so it was with Portugal.  We did debate starting our Portuguese trip in the Algarve, and thought better of it. Travelling up from Lisbon to Porto, I had looked at Coimbra as a place to visit. It appealed. Yet, we bypassed it.

There was one country we knew we wouldn’t bypass. A country that was up near the top of our “must visit” list when we left home in Perth back in June. And perhaps we fixated on this a little too much and overlooked other towns in Portugal that we could have visited. 

That said, getting to Croatia was easier said than done. Our only route in from Porto was to have a hop in Barcelona. So, that’s what we did. Flying in to Josep Tarradellas Barcelona–El Prat Airport, we had two nights in Catalonia before heading across the Adriatic. 

Barcelona bound

Barcelona is a city I’ve visited a couple of times previously. And had great memories. Who can forget THAT night in May 1999?

“Football, bloody hell.”

This time, dare I say it, it didn’t impress as much as I’d hoped. With the benefit of reflection in the intervening couple of weeks, I’m now wondering whether this is because we had already travelled through Spain, and we had seen some beautiful towns and cities?  Compared with the orange tree lined streets of Seville, Las Ramblas just looked, well, decidedly shabby.

Travel choices

Either way, we played the tourist for a couple of days before our alarm clock woke us at 3.10am for our taxi to the airport. Travelling on a budget sharpens the senses and given a choice between a 6am flight out of the country that is a few hundred dollars cheaper than the one that flies at a more convenient time, the choice is simple. 

And so, we found ourselves, a little bleary eyed, on the early Vueling flight from Barcelona to Split. We were finally headed to Croatia. 

On departure from Barcelona, we had a plan to “get around” the 90/180 days in the Schengen region*. You see, we were leaving the EU to enter Croatia. To avoid giving away how many of our 90 days we had used up in the EU we would switch to our UK passport. 

Alas, we were foiled. The immigration officer at Barcelona looked confused as he flipped through the pages of our passport. Obviously looking for the tell-tale entry stamp, which would allow him to check we hadn’t over stayed our welcome. 

The thing was, there was no entry stamp. It was sitting in our Australian passports. 

“You have another passport?”, he barked. 

Sheepishly, we dug out our Australian passports, and he found our entry details, before heavily stamping our departure. We had used up 44 of our allocated 90 days in the 180 day period. 46 remain and thankfully Croatia is not classed in the EU, so the clock stops ticking.

For now. 

*90/180 Day Rule

As a traveller, you are permitted to travel through the EU for 90 days in a continuous 180 day period. Three months from six. For every day you are in a Schengen country, you use a day of your allowance. Once up to 90 days, you then have to leave and can not return until another 90 days have elapsed.

We got up to 44 days before we “stopped the clock” heading into Croatia. When we next re-enter a country in the Schengen region, our clock starts again and we have the remaining 46 days to use before we need to leave again.

Simple, eh?

Up next

What we hope will be a lot simpler is Croatia. Our plan is to bob around, island hopping for a few weeks, soaking up the late summer/autumn sun. Keep an eye out for the next instalment.

Up first, Lisbon

Reflecting on our Spanish adventure, it was a great few weeks. However, we needed to keep moving. Nomadic lifestyles don’t lend well to staying too long in one place. 

And so, after a super stay in Seville, we were headed to country number nine of our travels. And, in big travel news, we were taking an aeroplane for the first time since leaving the UK. We would still be in the Schengen region, as for all our trip so far in mainland Europe, there will be no customs procedures to navigate. Just disembark, grab your bags, and wander off to explore. I had frequently learned of a quirk of the Schengen region. The 90/180 day rule, but more on that in a later blog.

The ease of travelling by rail and bus

There is a great ease, and pleasure in just rocking up to a train or bus station minutes before your departure, stowing your bag, and taking your seat. I wasn’t looking forward to the rigmarole of the airport. The early arrival for bag drop. The hassle of security. Do we still take shoes off? What about belts? Oh, I can leave my electronics in the bag? When did this change? And the interminable waiting around to board. 

Seville airport at 6am was very civilised. A smooth and quick check in. A breeze through security. And an on time departure. Some one hour later, confusingly landing at the same time we took off, we had wheels down in Lisbon, Portugal. On the same time zone as the UK we had to turn our clocks back an hour. 

Lisbon

With an estimated population of just over half a million, Lisbon is the largest city, and the capital of Portugal. Situated by the Tagus river, in the south of the country, it has a storied history. One of the oldest cities in the world, Lisbon is also the second oldest European capital. Athens holds first place.

We spent four nights exploring all of what Lisbon has to offer. Which is a lot. The centre naturally draws you down to the waterfront. The huge Praço do Comércio is entered through Arco da Rua Augusta. A triumphal archway leading you into the large city square on the edge of the water. From here you can glance right and see the “25th April” bridge, mirroring the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco, even down to the exact same colour of paint it is covered in.

The famous tram 28

Heading back into the main town we jumped on the, now famous, tram 28. Still a working tram, taking locals to work and back, it has turned into one of the “must do” items on every Lisbon travellers list. The tram rumbles up through Alfama, trundling up the surprisingly hilly Lisbon, before descending back through town, and up to the neighbourhood of Barrio Alto. It is easy to see why tourists jump on the 28 and sit there, taking in much of Lisbon. 

We spent a day on the waterfront, exploring sights such as the Belem tower, the Monument to Discovery, and the Jeronimos Monastery. All before heading back to the very, very popular Time Out market. 

Marketing the markets

Much like a lot of similar markets we have seen in Europe, this is another that has been refurbished with all eyes on the tourist Euro. Locals have been priced out of these markets, sadly, as prices for beer, wine, and food are hiked well above what you expect to pay elsewhere. The market is impressive, but I left with a feeling of sadness that most people were there because they thought they “had” to visit as they had read it in a guidebook. I may sound cynical, but, this is just me, and how I feel.

Dinner off the beaten track

I prefer to eat in places where the locals eat, and this is where we found ourselves, not too far from the hotel we were staying in. Up a hill, into a local neighbourhood, we found 21 Gallas craft beer pub. A rotating tap list of 10 beers allowed for plenty of choice as we had a couple of pre-dinner drinks.

Dinner itself was a little further up the hill, in a little pizza place we found. Located in a small square, next to a bar hosting a music night, we sat and had a fabulous pizza. I also spotted a dish going out that looked like halloumi. After enquiring what it was, we ordered a portion. Brazillian cheese, grilled. Delicious.

Beaches in Lisbon

What you may not know about Lisbon is that despite being a large city, there are some excellent beaches on its doorstep. Deciding we needed some downtime after traipsing the length and breadth of Lisbon, we gave ourselves a “beach day”, heading out to Carcavelos beach. Some 30 minutes by train from Lisbon, this is a very popular beach with the locals. We had a glorious day, our towels, and our books. With food and drink options nearby we spent a very enjoyable day soaking up the sun.

In all, we had some fabulous food in Lisbon. From the octopus stew in a cataplano on the first night, to the curry that we traditionally have, everywhere we go in the world. We have had some very good ones, and Victoria declared this one as the best she has ever had. Quite a bold statement from such a curry lover.

Sintra

Day four in Lisbon saw us back at the train station, this time Rossio, as we headed out to Sintra. Classified a UNESCO World Heritage site, Sintra has to be seen to be believed. Fairytale castles dot the hills surrounding the small town. Lord Byron described it as “glorious Eden”, being just one of many visitors over the centuries to be taken in by Sintra’s charms.

Archaeological finds date Sintra back to the 5th millennium BC, but the devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755 resulted in much of Sintra being destroyed, and subsequently rebuilt. The earthquake is something that I knew nothing of and learned that it destroyed almost the whole of Lisbon. There are estimates of 30,000 to 40,000 lives lost.

Sintra bounced back and in modern times is a place that draws in thousands of tourists a year, drawn to the palaces and castles that adorn many a postcard. It is a place I would highly recommend that you spend a few hours exploring.

And we head to Porto

Our exploring of Lisbon was done and we jumped on the metro to Gare Oriente, for our 9.30am bus to Porto, in the north of the country. Porto has been on my travel wish list for some time and I was very happy, boarding the bus, knowing that within 3 hours I would be there. Porto would bring up bed number 34 since we left home in Perth.

Who knew bed 34 would be so difficult to get to? A cursory glance on Google maps showed us where our apartment was. From the metro station, it looked like a short walk. What Google does not show you is that the “short walk” was up some very steep hills. Why did nobody warn us how hilly Porto is? Imagine how happy I was when we finally made it, only to discover our apartment was up a flight of stairs! Good grief, we were a hot and sweaty mess as we met Pedro at the apartment to check in. 

Time to explore

Bags dropped off, and cooled down a little, it was time to explore Porto. I could pretend that there were many sights I wanted to see, in no particular order, but who was I kidding? I was here for the port, and the many port cellars that proliferate around the Douro river. And it wasn’t long before I sat down, with my first tasting.

Porto, sitting on the Douro river, is known as the city of bridges, and a stroll along the water allows you to see why. The most impressive, in my opinion, is the Dom Luís I Bridge, designed by Teophile Seyrig, a former partner of Gustave Eiffel, of whom we all know. Should you be a bridge fanatic, I aren’t, you can do a river cruise, taking in all six of them.

What exactly is a Franceshina?

I was on the hunt for something else. Lunchtime was approaching and only the day before had I read of Porto’s most famous dish. A Franceshina. What exactly is a Franceshina? Well, I have now had one and still am not totally sure. It was invented by a Portuguese by the name of Daniel Silva, whilst he was living in France. Supposedly, inspired by the croque monsieur. Hmm. It is a sandwich of white loaf bread, beef, ham, sausage and cheese. It is topped off with an egg, and then it is all drenched, literally, in a strange sauce, of which it seems no one is really sure what it is. 

Most menus describe it as a beer sauce, and it is supposedly made up of beer and tomatoes as a base. Where it gets interesting for me is that each chef maintains the “secret” of their sauce, and so, it is unique from place to place. Now I knew of this famous sandwich, I saw it everywhere, I just had to try it. And the verdict? Tasty. It filled me. But that sauce? I am just not sure I would want it every day.

Pastel de Nata

What we did have every day in Portugal, and sometimes twice, were the pastel de natas. Known outside Portugal as Portuguese tarts, these mini egg custards are addictive. Even more so when they are just out of the oven. Bite size pieces of heaven. I could probably fit a whole one in my mouth, but they are best savoured, with many mini bites.

Very popular in Porto is also the “Portuguese Experience”. I had seen these in Lisbon and just had to try one. A cod fishcake, made with local cheese, and a cold white port. Oh yes, I could get used to these. If only they weren’t so expensive.

With all this food it is a good job that we are keeping up with our exercise. Exploring cities is hard work, and we often go to bed having completed more than double the recommended step count. Walking around Porto gives you the added exercise of climbing hills, getting the heart rate pumping, and making that first glass of wine taste even better.

Where to after Porto?

Porto was to be our last stop in Portugal. We had somewhere to be that had been high on the “priority list” of places to visit whilst we were away. However, we couldn’t get there directly from Porto so we will be having a mini break, back in the country we had previously just left. The mandatory masks may provide a clue. Such is the travel life, always adapting.

Ciao, and hasta luego.

New country, new travel experience

When we last spoke it was all about what a great time we had touring France and how we needed to keep moving. Not only to a new city, but to a new country. 

For today, we ditched the Bradshaw’s train guide and were experimenting with our first bus of the trip. Only recently have I discovered Flixbus. And within days of learning about them I started to see them everywhere. 

Today, we were on the 9.30am Flixbus from Bordeaux, across the Bidasoa river, which is the France-Spain border, and into San Sebastián. 

San Sebastian

There are places in the world I have always wanted to visit. At least, for as long as I remember. The feeling I had when I sat in front of the Lost City of the Incas at Machu Picchu was indescribable. I’d seen the vista on postcards for years and yearned to visit. 

San Sebastián was similar, for me. In the heart of the Basque country, with their fascinating language of incongruous X and Ts. There is also a strong Camino de Santiago connection. 

We stayed in a pension, which is a cheap guest house style of accommodation and we could not have asked for a better location. A short walk around the corner from the glorious playa de la concha, the famous stretch of beach that hugs the San Sebastian harbour. A 10 minute stroll had us in the old town, with its plethora of pinxtos bars. I would have loved a kettle to make my morning coffee, and a fridge to keep beer cold, but, you get what you pay for. 

Pinxtos (peen-chos)

The pinxtos bars need to be seen to be believed. Packed to the rafters. Most with nowhere to sit. The idea is you hustle at the bar, with the locals, pointing to the pinxtos that you want to go with your drink. Somehow, like magic, the bar staff know what you ordered when you finally come around to pay. Always at the end. And not when you order the drink, unless you want to stand out like the tourist you are.

On the surface, you may think that tapas is all you can get in San Sebastian. Far from it. I was surprised to learn that San Sebatian has more Michelin starred restaurants per square mile than anywhere else on the planet. 

A town with everything. Great beaches. Good walks. Amazing food and drink. And a local football team. This could be one of my new favourite parts of the world.

On the bus to Bilbao

Staying in the Basque country, our next stop was a quick bus ride along the coast, to Bilbao. For many years a forgotten city, lapsing into disrepair as old jobs disappeared, there was a lifeline 25 years ago. The city had the foresight to pay for a new Guggenheim museum to be built near the old docks. Creating a “destination attraction” in a similar way that the Opera House is in Sydney. And it worked. Dubbed the “Bilbao effect”, Frank Gehry’s masterpiece glistens on the Bilbao waterfront, attracting a steady 1 million visitors a year.

You won’t be surprised to hear that there is also a great food and drink scene in Bilbao. As we were still in the Basque region, we were eating pinxtos, and not tapas. The Basque region is one of those places that proudly holds onto its culture and heritage. Ensuring that the Basque language remains front and centre, everything is in both Basque, as the predominant language, and Spanish.

Heading to the Spanish capital

And it was into the Spanish heartland we were headed after our 5 days in the Basque region. Back on the bus, we had a 4 and half hour journey to Madrid ahead of us. We stocked up on pain au chocolats and water and we were off.

After San Sebastian and Bilbao, Madrid felt huge. A big, bustling city. We had 3 nights to adjust back to city life. And what better way to feel the pulse of a city than by attending a local football match. Saturday night saw us travelling out to the Wanda Metropolitana stadium to see Atletico Madrid take on Celta Vigo. 

I really enjoy going to football matches in overseas countries. Seeing how fans in different parts of the world celebrate their football team. The Atletico fans were vociferous. All through the match they maintained a great atmosphere. That the game ended with a 4:1 win obviously helped. 

After years of living in Australia I did find it strange that you could not buy beer inside the ground. Watching games at home in Australia we are used to getting a pint each and taking them to our seats to watch the action. Beers would come later, but not tonight. A 9pm kick off meant we were not back at the hotel until midnight. 

Our days in Madrid were spent strolling through the magnificent Retiro park, Madrid’s Central Park. Exploring the streets that sprawl off the main hubs of Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, Plaza Santa Ana, and others. Mercado de San Miguel is one of the great markets that we have found whilst on our travels through Europe. Opening its doors over 100 years ago, the market is now a gastronomic delight. Selling, overpriced, Spanish delicacies and drinks. Sating the appetite of many hungry tourists.

We are wily travellers, and so we decamped to the Museo del Jamon, where we could stand at the bar, have a jamon sandwich, and a beer, for a fraction of the cost charged in the Mercado de San Miguel. Money saved at lunch can be spent at dinner. One of the challenges of adapting to being a traveller, rather than a tourist, is constantly being aware that our travel budget has to fund months of further travel.

The Alhambra (no, not in Bradford)

And the road was calling us again. An early start had us heading to the outskirts of Madrid, to one of the huge bus stations, and we were on the way to Granada, a place that was not in our minds originally. Sketching rough places to go, we were headed for Seville, until we remembered (or were we were alerted?) to the fact that we could go via Granada and visit the Alhambra.

How glad we are we came and saw this magnificent palace. Described as “one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture”, we had a good few hours touring the palace and fortress complex. Started in 1238, many years, history, and conflict have passed and I would recommend having a read of the history. I would not do it justice here in a brief travel blog.

Granada

Granada surprised me in the way that Dijon, in France, did. I was immediately taken to the city with its narrow streets and cobbled lanes that house souk style markets. Albacin, to the north of the Alhambra still maintains much of its medieval street plan and is fun just to walk around, capturing the distinctive sights and smells.

On one such walk we stumbled across the Basilica de San Juan de Dios. Oh, my. Never has the inside of a church taken my breath away quite so much. A picture won’t do it justice but I will forever remember the moment I set eyes on it.

We also struck lucky with our accommodation, staying right in the heart of the city. Our two nights were in a new style of apartment accommodation for Spain. With a digital app on your phone that becomes the key to enter the apartment, and no physical presence, they are able to keep costs down and we had probably our cheapest stay yet.

Having a beer we were introduced to the “free tapa” system, of which Granada is the heart of. Each time you order a beer, you get a free tapa. Of the waiter’s choice. When you order a second drink, the same thing happens, only the tapa increases in quality. If you find yourself making a night of it, on the beer, you won’t need to buy dinner. A very popular choice with the city’s large student population, I’m sure.

Where the streets are lined with orange trees

Mention marmalade and many people’s minds will turn to Seville. Unfortunately, the oranges on the trees right now are more green than orange, But this does not take away from the beauty of the city. Seville was our next stop after Granada. And we were here for more than marmalade.

It would be a crime, in my opinion, to visit Spain and not indulge in churros con chocolate. I believe we found the best in Seville. Bar el Comercio starts selling piping hot churros from seven thirty in the morning. We were there a little later than that and still they were creating these hot, fluffy pieces of churros heaven. The thick chocolate to dip them in would be good as a drink all by itself.

We are going to miss Spain

Seville is a whole lot more than churros and marmalade. And we saw a lot of it. From the very impressive Plaza de Espana, to the equally impressive Real Palace de Alcazar. As with all our days in Spain, we have been blown away by the beauty this country has to offer. Friendly locals, fantastic food, I will be genuinely sad leaving. Whilst travelling through I have also had a great opportunity to brush up on my rusty Spanish language skills. Whilst very, very far from fluent, I have been pleased to get by, trying to avoid speaking English at every opportunity.

We now head into Portugal, first stop, Lisbon. I better work out how to say, “two beers, please.”

Adios, chicos.