Cefalu and Palermo bound

Leaving Taormina, we took a taxi down the steep and winding streets to the train station. Actually called Taormina-Giardini Naxos, the station is one of the world’s most elegant. Spotted in films such as Francis Ford Coppolla’s “Godfather III”, the Art Nouveau station has been serving this part of Sicily since 1866. Today, we were headed up the coast, to Messina, where we would change trains for our final destination of the day.

That destination was to be a further 185 kms west of Messina, to the resort town of Cefalu. With a town centre dominated by the very impressive Duomo, construction for which started in 1131, Cefalu is one of Italy’s most popular destinations, attracting both Italian and overseas tourists in their millions. We had two nights to explore. 

Upon arrival at our bed and breakfast we again had no elevator. Once more we were carrying our bags up multiple flights of very steep stairs. I am burning off my gelato calories faster than I am eating it. Hot, sweaty, and trying to smile whilst checking in. Have I ever told you how hot Sicily is in the height of summer? It is not the weather for climbing stairs.

Thankfully, we had good air conditioning, and cold water. Before too long we were ready to head out and explore. And perhaps find some gelato.

A Sicilian Slush Puppy

What we did find was another Sicilian staple. Granita. If you are from the UK, think of a Slush Puppy. A granita is a smaller, more refined version. The most popular flavour being a very sharp lemon. Served in a small cup and eaten with a spoon, a granita is THE way to cool down in this part of the world. Earlier that day we also had something else that you may be familiar with. Arancini originate from Sicily. What I didn’t realise was that the name, arancini, is derived from the word for orange. Which makes sense when I think of the shape and the colour. Golden globes of heaven.

Sicilians are very proud of their arancini, and there are specialist shops dedicated to their production. I can confirm, they do make the best street lunch. You can get every filling imaginable in these little globes of rice, and for us the simplest fillings are always the best. This is why travelling is so culturally rewarding. Getting to experience a culture through its food. Hundreds, and sometimes thousands of years of history, of people passing through a place, leaving their distinct cultural fingerprint in the cuisine. It is one of the joys of my life.

Beach to Beef in Cefalu

Cefalu is more than just its food. There is also a great swathe of beach that we planned to spend some time on. As we saw in other parts of Italy, Italians do love a day at the beach. They arrive early, with the whole family in tow, and set up for the day. We are a little less hard core, and we spent a few hours frolicking in the sea, with me taking intermittent trips to the nearby shop for cold beers.

When we planned our trip to Cefalu, besides the beach, we also planned to have beef. We discovered that there was a restaurant called “BIF Braceria” that specialised in steaks. Knowing that by the time we hit Cefalu, we would enjoy a break from pizza and pasta, we had booked a table for dinner.

What a night we had. Steak tartare. Followed by a t-bone steak. Complemented by a 2015 bottle of Sicilian red wine. A highlight of the trip, and quite possibly one of the most expensive meals we have ever enjoyed. Worth every Euro. Life is for living, and we will forget what we paid long before we forget the memories made that evening. Memento mori.

Palermo

More memories were to be made, and following a great visit to Cefalu we were headed to the capital to finish the Sicilian part of our trip. A short train ride from Cefalu and we were soon wheeling our bags through the streets of Palermo. We found our accommodation superbly located in the bustling heart of Palermo. And yes, you guessed it. No elevator. More stairs. But, what a view from the breakfast terrace.

We were now down to the last four days of  the holiday. Three of which we would spend in Palermo, a city that has much to offer. But first, Aperol Spritz. Tradition is tradition.

The Food Markets of Palermo

Palermo is famous for its outdoor food markets. Sharing many characteristics with the souks of Arabia, the markets are an assault on the senses. Vibrant, noisy, and smells that compel you to grab lunch on the go. Palermo has four historic quarters, each with its own market. The most popular being Vucciria and Ballaro. Just strolling through is an experience in itself. A must do whilst in Palermo.

No Mafia

Another place I would recommend is “No Mafia”, a museum (free entry) dedicated to the history of the mafia. Highlighting the tragic cost the people of Sicily have paid as a result of the mafia, No Mafia is an educational museum, showcasing the work done by the justice system in Sicily in trying to eradicate the insidious tentacles of the mafia. Tentacles that seemed to be entwined in many parts of Sicilian life for hundreds of years, from their humble beginnings in the Sicilian countryside to a worldwide organisation.

With thoughts turning back to food, it was time to find a recommendation we had received from the bed and breakfast host. Apparently, hidden away in the back of a monastery there was a bakery serving up the best cannoli in the whole of Sicily. This is what I am here for. Following the directions we got we headed through a quiet doorway, down labyrinthine corridors, eventually coming across a large room that housed the bakery. 

And the cannoli were…huge! Of course we were getting one each. Sat in the quiet courtyard, slowly working our way through the cannoli, all we could do was smile. This was indeed the best cannoli in the whole of Sicily, if not Italy. Palermo is a great city to explore by foot. Which is a relief as it may take me a week to burn off that cannoli. 

Palermo on Foot

We explored all corners of the city. And for a city that is over 2,700 years old, there is a lot to explore.  From the newer parts of the city, at the marina, to the very oldest with the combination of Baroque, Art Nouveau, Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Quattro Canti is one of the most impressive examples. A crossing of two main roads, the buildings on all four sides have diagonal Baroque facades creating an almost octagonal form. Quite the sight.

Our time in Sicily was drawing to a close. We had experienced the best of it. Food. Beaches. Architecture. History. And people. Such a rich place to visit. Rich in culture. World class wines. In another world we would stay here and explore the south coast, but that will have to wait. We had a date with the city to end all cities. A plane was due to transport us to the Eternal City.

Craving Carbonara

The last night of our European Odyssey would be spent in Rome. And boy, was I looking forward to getting my hands on a bowl of perfect carbonara. As soon as we knew we would be flying home from Rome I knew where we would spend the evening. The suburb of Trastevere is not the secret it once was. It has been truly discovered by the people of the world, but you can still find hidden pockets of tranquility, as we did that evening, sitting down to Rigatoni Carbonara in a quiet square.

Flying into Rome in the afternoon, and waiting almost two hours for our baggage to appear, we just had time for a whistle stop tour of all our favourite Roman spots. Staying within sight of the Coliseum made this an easy visit. Strolling along from there to the “typewriter building”, (the Victor Emmanuel II monument) and around to the Trevi Fountain. By the time we had explored Piazza Navona and the Pantheon we needed a cold beer, which gave us the energy we needed to visit the Spanish Steps before, tiredly, walking back to the bed and breakfast to change for dinner.

Reflections

Over a delicious bowl of carbonara we reflected on the last five weeks. Starting in England, visiting family and friends, before we headed to Puglia and Basilicata. Sicily followed, and now we were closing out the trip here in Rome. We had seen, and eaten so much. And again, I was reminded how much I love Italy. I wondered when we would be back.

The Journey is the Destination

Whilst the destination part of the holiday was over, we still had the “journey” part to enjoy. Our Emirates chauffeur collected us from our bed and breakfast in Rome and quite possibly broke all land speed records as he drove us to the airport. Checked in seamlessly, I was soon trying to set a personal best of how many lamb cutlets I could eat.

The Emirates Business Class lounge at Rome is a sight to behold. A quiet caccoon of paradise where we spent our last couple of hours on Italian soil. Restaurant quality food. Self pour of champagne. And boarding direct from the lounge. Settling into my business class seat, glass of Veuve Cliquot in hand, and I was mentally calculating how many years I would need to save for us to do it all over again.