Come with me to Hobart, Tasmania

A foodies paradise

I was sitting in the Landscape Restaurant, on the Hobart waterfront, thinking about what my abiding memories would be.  What I would take away from this weekend in Tasmania.  What would stick long in the memory.  As I turned the page on this brief chapter, what would stay with me, what layers would be added to the stratigraphy of my mind? 

Tasmania is famed for its food and drink.  Having just finished one of the best meals I have ever had, and I don’t say that lightly, the food and drink would be the obvious place to start.  The most apparent souvenir leaving Hobart with me would be the extra inches on my waist. Lucky that I paid for extra baggage.  Before this trip, I have to be honest, I did not fully appreciate just how good the Tasmanian wines are.  And that the whisky industry extends beyond the excellent Lark distillery.  I am leaving Hobart educated, satiated, and in proud possession of a stinking hangover.

First impressions

Flying in at lunchtime, by the time we had dropped the bags at our accommodation, the most perfect little cottage found on AirBnB, we headed to the Salamanca Markets.  Running each Saturday, through to 3pm, the markets are both a huge tourist attraction, and a great place to support local artisans.  Running the length of Salamanca Place, it would be easy to spend a couple of hours browsing the stalls, picking up some food, and maybe a cheeky bar of Tasmanian made fudge for dessert.   We seemed to have aquired a habit of collecting fudge from every place we visit.  I mean, when I say “collect”, it never usually makes it home with us.

I bought a book, which may not surprise you, from an English author now living in Hobart.  Jamie Maslin hitchhiked from Hobart to London.  800 hitchhiking rides.  18 thousand miles.  Three continents.  19 countries.  I relished the opportunity to talk to anybody crazy enough to do this.  Jamie had a stall at the markets, selling signed copies of his book, “The Long Hitch Home”, and I couldn’t resist.   I love travel, you may have heard, but I also love supporting authors, knowing the hard work that goes into writing a book.

Rest up a while

When you need to rest your legs, and have a well-earned drink, there are numerous bars in and around Salamanca Place.  A personal favourite was The Den.  With fire pits both in the bar, and on the terrace, it was a place you could, and we did, idle away a few hours sampling some delicious wines.

The following morning we made our way to the Pigeon Hole on Goulburn Street.  A small inner city cafe, with an unassuming little menu that exudes confidence, the breakfast we had won’t be forgotten in a hurry.   Check out the menu for yourself, it won’t take you long.  But the food they do, they do bloody well.  Baked eggs, with a slight drizzle of olive oil, served with a couple of chunks of bread, baked in-house to perfection, and a side of bacon which was honestly more akin to a gammon steak.  My mouth is watering just thinking about it.  Did I mention the coffee?  I usually do.  Excellent.

Landscape restaurant

Then there was Landscape Restaurant, which is an experience in itself.   I wasn’t sure of the provenance of the restaurant’s name, but it soon became clear when we were shown to our table.  The server asked us if she could tell us a little about both the restaurant, and also the numerous “landscape” pictures lining the wall.  Located in the old IXL jam factory, on Hobart’s waterfront, diners at Landscape are surrounded by the iconic art of John Glover.  There is an annual celebration of contemporary landscape paintings, with the award of the John Glover Prize.  Wander through the restaurant and you can view a selection of past winners.

Being a working harbour, Hobart has some excellent seafood.  Whilst you know my weakness for fish & chips, I thought I needed to up my seafood game for this trip.  A great evening in the Story Bar, located in Ocean Pier, allowed me the opportunity to sit around a real fire, jig my feet along with the live band, and sample oysters.  

What is it about oysters?

Now, not my favourite seafood, I still contend that the ones I had deep-fried, in Queenstown, New Zealand, were the best I have ever had.  But, with a drizzle of lemon, I again tried food that I would not naturally gravitate to.   Did I enjoy them?  I suppose so.  This is the thing with oysters, that I find anyway, is what is there to enjoy?  Does anybody truly enjoy them?  They just kind of slip down your throat.  Do you even taste them?  If you are a lover of oysters, and I am doing it wrong, please leave me a comment below.   I would love to hear from you.

Sunday morning dawned blue.  The cloudless sky shone a colour of blue that you only see in winter.   We had come prepared, with new wooly hats, and scarves.  We are in winter, a lot further south from Sydney, and Hobart had been experiencing some cold days.   Whilst we were there, we were lucky to avoid both rain, and the worst of the cold winter days.

MONA – a must visit

Walking off the excesses of the night before, the excellent Tasmanian Cabernet Sauvignon, and nightcap(s) of Lark single malt whisky, we strolled along Sandy Bay Rd, through historic Battery Point, and down Kelly Stairs into Salamanca Place.  Did we have time to quickly pop into the esteemed Jackman & McRoss bakery?  Alas, not this time.  We had a boat to catch.

Arriving at MONA (museum of old and new art) by the museum’s dedicated catamaran, some 30 minutes from Hobart, the first thing that strikes you is the vast amount of rust.   Yes, rust.  MONA may be more famous for a lot of things, not least for its collection of 151 life-size models of vaginas, but the colours are the first thing that hits you.   Yes, you did read that right.  Not about the colours.  The other thing.  There are 151 vaginas lining one very long wall. All true to scale, with varying degrees of hirsuteness, all conveniently displayed at eye level.   The museum calls them by their rather vulgar colloquial name, but I don’t think my readers would want to be reading c****s in this family friendly blog.  I used to think, “I’ve seen one, I’ve seen them all”.  But let me tell you, I looked at all 151 of them, in the name of research, and there were some very different specimens.  All very fine specimens, but very different.

However, I am not here to speak about vaginas.   Let me get back to where I was.  Rust.  Or specifically, the colour of rust.  Built into the rock face, there is nothing much to see of MONA as you approach it from the water.  All you can see is a vast amount of stairs to climb, and vast amounts of rust.  Once you climb those stairs, all 99 of them, you are then hit with green.  At the top, just where you enter the museum, there is a life-size tennis court that was put there, by demand of the owner.  Apparently, the reason was to allow the surrounding glass to reflect the green of the court back to where people were queuing to get in.  No, I can’t make any sense of it either.  Much like the rest of MONA.

Sandstone hues

The theme of colour continues as you descend the circular staircase, down the four floors into the belly of the museum.  Everything is intentionally very industrial.  The rust gives way to a colour that I associate not only with Hobart, but with my home city of Sydney too.  Sandstone.  In the same way that many of the original buildings in Sydney are made from sandstone, the same can be said of Hobart.  And can definitely be said about MONA as it is hewn from the sandstone cliff face.  Bringing light to the structure, in only the way that sandstone can, it provides a contrast to the dark rust.  Add in a very striking, modern bar, and the effect is quite amazing.

In the Posh Pit

Sat in the posh pit, the “VIP” section of the MONA catamaran, returning to Hobart harbour, I was left reflecting on another great visit to the Tasmanian capital.  Over quaint little canapes, and a glass of bubbles, amongst some exuberant youngsters, a smile crept over my face.  If a town had it all, or at least most of it, Hobart does.  Great scenery, and some good treks up Mount Wellington, always hulking in the background, casting its eye on the city.  Historic little cottages.  Fabulous food, that isn’t restricted to its excellent seafood.  And the drink.  Or drinks.  The range of Tasmanian wines is truly outstanding.   Pinots and Cabernets that rival the very best that this wonderful country offers.  And I will finish on the whisky.   Which is what I did each evening.  Whilst Lark may be the distillery that first shone a light on Tassie whiskys, the baton has been well and truly picked up by others.  Of the many available, I can personally vouch for Hellyers Road, McHenry, and of course, Lark.

Hobart – what are you waiting for?

Whether you are visiting interstate, or are on holiday from overseas, Hobart is a place that I would highly recommend.   Just a short hop from the hubs of Sydney, Melbourne, and Adelaide, yet a world away in many respects.  A city that maintains its folksy, small town feel, whilst offering you food and drink experiences you would normally associate with the big cities.

Hobart remains on my list of favourite destinations.   What are you waiting for?