Heading South
The route started out as so familiar. Merging with the stream of traffic heading south. The sun was rising, the skies were blue, and we were looking forward to some downtime in nature. With a bit of wine thrown in, of course.
What might surprise you is that our destination wasn’t Margaret River. I know it might feel to you that this is our second home. And it kind of is. Yet, there is a destination a little closer to home that has been described by many as the new Margaret River.
Ferguson Valley
Ferguson Valley is just over two hours south of Perth. Shaving over an hour off our usual journey down south. Leaving mid morning we were sampling some of Green Door’s excellent wines. Wines that were new to me on my wine education journey. I got to discover Monastrell. At least I thought it was new.
A little bit of research showed me that I was very familiar with the grape, just under different names. You see, Monastrell is known as Mouvedre in France, and Mataro in other wine growing regions of the world. Everyday is a school day when you are studying wine.
However, this trip wasn’t specifically to study wine. I was very happy to learn recently that I had passed my exam for the WSET Level 2 in wines. This exam is not too onerous and does give you a very good grounding in wine, wine production, and the various grapes that are grown around the world. I am still percolating on whether my future contains WSET Level 3 and beyond, which are a big step up in commitment.
Our Escape Pod at Skating Goose Farm
My commitment for this weekend was to rediscover Ferguson Valley, a place we first visited a couple of years ago. And we were staying at the same location. The adults only luxury retreat at Skating Goose Farm. With only two cabins, called “escape pods”, Honey was to be our home for the weekend. Set amongst 150 acres of farmland, surrounded by Marri forest, this was the ultimate rest and relaxation location.
Sat on the deck of the cabin, watching the various birds flit in and out. We had a resident honey eater keeping us company in the flowering bushes in front of us. Numerous laughing kookaburras perched high in the canopy of trees serenaded us with their very unique song. A constant background buzz left us in no doubt where the local honey came from. And, as the light of the day started to fade, a mob of kangaroos appeared and surprised us by engaging in a fist fight with each other. We have seen a lot of roos, and this was the first time we have seen them boxing. It was quite the sight.
The Night Sky in Australia
As the temperature dropped, we moved onto a local Cabernet Sauvignon, from nearby Ferguson Falls. Swirling the wine in the glass, extracting the aromas, as I fired up the BBQ and cooked us a t-bone. Is there a better combination? Dinner finished and we were back on the balcony. The sun had set and darkness had arrived.
When you have experienced the night sky in remote Australia you will never need a television again. There is no better viewing than sitting, peering into the universe whilst it peers back. Wondering who is out there, watching us. It is almost a statistical impossibility that we are the only lifeform in the vast universe. We just haven’t found each other. Yet.
Without light pollution the night sky is unlike anything you have ever seen before. Awestruck we tried to count the satellites criss crossing the night sky. That was until our attention was immediately stolen by a shooting star streaking across the sky. It literally takes your breath away. And I literally hardly ever use the word literally. It is so often misused and misunderstood in the modern vernacular.
Cabernet finished, and the traditional ritual of a whisky nightcap ending a great evening, it was time for bed. Oh, the silence. No noise of the neighbours above us doing whatever it is they do. Every evening. No city sirens racing to the latest emergency. Even the kookaburras were asleep.
10,000 Gnomes
Morning broke misty with amazing views across the paddock as the first light hit the fields. This was my cue to light up the BBQ and create our traditional bacon and egg breakfast. With the happy addition of a couple of chunky slices of black pudding.
Saturday started with a visit to what may just be the world’s weirdest tourist attraction. Although, we did find one even weirder, more on those frogs later. Gnomesville is exactly what the name suggests. A village of gnomes. A tradition that started out with one gnome has blossomed into quite possibly the largest gathering of gnomes in the world. It is a sight to be seen, and also a little creepy.
Estimates suggest there are over 10,000 gnomes, with the number growing each year as visitors from both Australia and overseas bring new additions. Covering a large area of forest that borders the main road running through Ferguson Valley I was astounded by the amount of visitors it had on the weekend we were there. And like us, not just visitors with children. A local institution, Gnomesville is a must visit if you are in the area.
Frog’s Hollow – it has to be seen to be believed
Slightly less impressive, but just starting out, is “Frog’s Hollow”. Taking the weirdness up a notch, Frog’s Hollow is a short 10 minute drive from Gnomesville. And here, frogs are trying to get in on the act. Only created this year, the number of frogs is starting to grow and it has a long way to go before it reaches the “fame” of its nearby Gnome friends. We were, unsurprisingly, the only visitors and it didn’t take us too long to explore. Who knows, 10 years from now and Frog’s Hollow might just be the next big thing in Ferguson Valley.
Lunch at Hackersley Estate
For now, we will stick with one of the Valley’s real highlights. Food. Lunch was at the impressive Hackersley Estate. With a view out across the paddock, watching a large mob of kangaroos hop past, we were there for the 3 course set menu. And it was delicious. Completed by glasses of their own Semillon and Verdelho, served a little too cold, each course was a delight. We completed the lunch with a wine tasting, getting to try the Mondeuse grape. A new one for me and a black grape that is native to France.
Rolling out of Hackersley Estate, our next stop was at Talisman Wines. A gem and a must visit. Driving down an unsealed road you could be forgiven for thinking you had taken a wrong turn. Trust yourself and turn left just after the converted buses that now double up as simple accommodation. We pulled up just 30 minutes before closing time and managed to get a full tasting from the very friendly Kim.
Set around a lake, Talisman Wines is a boutique winery producing some of the best wines of the region. The Riesling is a stand out and who would have thought of aging a Riesling in oak? Strange, right. And it works. As do all the wines we tried. The Chardonnay was exquisite and the Cabernet Malbec had me thinking of last night’s steak. And yes, reader, we purchased a selection to take home with us.
Ferguson Valley – a mini Margaret River?
Driving home the next day we reflected on our weekend, and pondered why we don’t come more often. Not owning a car is a constraint. One that means we can’t just pop down there on impulse. It takes planning and each time we hire a car it seems to drive itself to our spiritual home, Margaret River. That said, people are not far off the mark when they describe Ferguson Valley as a mini Margaret River. Vineyards. Great food. Breweries. And wildlife. What is not to like?
Dropping the hire car off we knew it wouldn’t be long before we were picking it back up. Four weeks long. For our next Margaret River trip. We will be needing some more wine by then.
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