Heading North from Hobart

Hobart to the North Coast

The weekend flew by and before we knew it it was Monday morning and sadly time to leave Hobart. This meant we needed a hire car, and after searching for quite some time the cheapest I could find was Bargain Rentals. The clue, reader, is in the name.  Did I tell you I was from Yorkshire?

However, Amit was very friendly when we went to collect our car, and he did have a very warm office. Very warm. And he was wearing multiple layers. Now, I know it was still the back end of Winter but the office was like a sauna. Not somewhere you want to linger and spend some time debating the merits of purchasing additional insurance, or a GPS. By the way, does anybody seriously use these nowadays? With Google Maps programmed we were heading north from Hobart.

Our Trusty Steed

It may not have had built in GPS, but I had Google Maps. The car did have electric windows so that was a start. Mrs C described it as a bullet and I wasn’t sure if that was a compliment or not. I just hoped it would safely take us around Tasmania for the next 7 nights.

Our First Vineyard in Tasmania

So far so good with the bullet and just over 3 hours after leaving Hobart we were rolling into the car park of Ghost Rock winery on the north coast. We were booked in for a wine tasting and then lunch. Lunch was outstanding and from the wine tasting we each picked a glass to complement our food. Tasmania was quickly taking on a theme and it centred around food and drink.

A short drive from Ghost Rock, along the coast, was to be our home for the next two nights. The Cove. And let me tell you, it is breathtaking. I hadn’t booked it, trusting this job to Mrs C, and was unsure of what to expect.

And then there was The Cove

We got a very friendly welcome from Kim on reception who is part of the family that has farmed the land for generations and The Cove is the latest addition to the landscape. Only open since March 2021, this is luxury redefined. The exposed cliff top has been transformed into three luxury en suite chalets, two glamping tents and five separate cabins with shared facilities. There is a main building, called the Alexander Center that houses a massive luxury kitchen, a huge, warm lounge, and plenty of outside seats, strategically placed around the fire pit.

The weather was wild and blustery the two nights that we spent there. And this was perfect from my point of view. Shielded from the weather, wind and rain hammering against the windows, glass of wine in hand, safe and secure. On the second night I even took a bath, with views out across the Bass Straight as I had a long soak.

The morning started with a short walk along the cliff top, contemplating what we were making of Tasmania so far. And it was overwhelmingly positive. Such a beautiful, very accessible country. Short drives, which makes a nice change from driving in Western Australia, and such lush scenery. Many times we remarked on how much it reminded us of certain parts of the UK.

Hell yes, to Hellyers

Did I mention that Tasmania has quite the reputation for whisky? Well, just along the coast from The Cove is the highly regarded Hellyers Road Distillery, so obviously I booked us in for a visit. We actually had lunch, which was very good, before I indulged in a flight of their best whiskies. Thankfully, today I wasn’t the skipper so didn’t have to worry about driving us home. After seeing the size of the whiskies I breathed a sigh of relief.

Pick up a Penguin

Ok, not a reference that everyone will get, but I am sure many of the UK readers will. If you are in Australia, think Tim Tams.

Driving west from the Cove, along the road that hugs the coast, we followed the train line as it snaked along to Penguin. An actual town called Penguin, with a population just under 4000 people. First settled in 1861, it was named Penguin by the botanist Ronald Campbell Gunn, for the many penguins that inhabit this part of the coast.

Penguin has a lovely feel to it, strolling from the church at one end, past the local library, with current restrictions of 8 people at any one time, and serendipitously onto the Penguin Beer Co.

Beer o’clock in Penguin

Loving both penguins and beer, we could not resist calling in. And it turns out our timing was perfect. The bar had only been open for 7 weeks. A large, modern looking fit out, with a wide range of Penguin beers on tap. We went for the Pale Ale and a Session Ale, took a seat by the window, and slowly supped whilst watching the waves crash up against the shore.

I think Penguin Beer Co is in for a successful run. There is nothing else in the small town quite like it and the “kids eat free” on Tuesdays offer is sure to bring the mums and dads in. Open mic night on Wednesdays could have tempted me but, alas, we had to move on.

Launceston

We were heading south, to Launceston, but not before calling in at Tasmania Food and Wine conservatory just off the A1. The building first caught our eye as we passed a couple of days earlier and being almost time for “elevenses” we swung in to the car park. In the middle of nowhere, you would expect it to be quiet, right? Think again. This, my friends, is Australia through the pandemic. Unable to travel internationally, most people are holidaying at home, meaning you often can’t get in anywhere without making a booking months in advance. But here?

Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory

We walked in just after 11am and immediately my heart sank. Tables full of reserved signs. On closer inspection these were mainly for lunch so we were able to grab a table just for a coffee and a cup of tea. Mrs C had also spied the jam donuts so it wasn’t long before she had a dusting of sugar all around her mouth. The coffee was excellent as was the whole interior. Gourmet Tassie foods galore, but what caught my eye, and will come home with me, were the small bottles of Hobart whisky.

Whisky Galore

Tasmania has rightfully now got a global reputation for whisky, (I may have mentioned it), after being put on the map by Sullivan’s Cove. There are now distilleries the length and breadth of the country and I was doing my best to try them all. Next up, Launceston Distillery. Located a short 10 minute drive south of Launceston, next to the airport, in Hangar 17, this was a slice of Tasmania whisky culture served up in a big dash of Australian aviation history. 

Last used as the hangar for the now defunct Ansett Airlines, Chris Condon the head distiller has made it home. Having worked at some of the major whisky distilleries in Tasmania, Chris moved home to Launceston and started his own. And he is doing good. He gave us a talk on the history of the airfield, which started out as a grass paddock runway, right through to the present day, with Launceston Distillery producing a range of single malt whiskies. Having been guided through a tasting of 5 of their best I made my purchase. A whisky matured in tawny port casks. Delicious. 

Exploring the city of Launceston

Launceston is about an hour’s drive from where we started out this morning, Devonport, on the north coast. It is Tasmania’s second city after the state capital, Hobart. Within minutes of walking around we were immediately in awe of the architecture. Such beautiful, grand old buildings. On every block. And trying to count the number of churches was like being back in Adelaide. When my pal, Mr Walker, gets a final count I would love to hear the number. (Update: I believe there are in excess of 60).

Red Feather Inn

Not being the religious type, I hunted down a glass of wine instead, and Mojo’s fit the bill. A tasty lamb gozleme and a glass of local Pinot noir, we were up and running. Tonight we were staying at the very highly acclaimed Red Feather Inn. Again, it may surprise you, but this was not one of my bookings. A collection of historic convict built sandstone buildings dating from 1842, they have now been transformed into a luxury boutique bed and breakfast. Our home for the next couple of nights was to be “The Loft” room. And it was delightful.

There is also a restaurant on site and we had ourselves booked in for dinner on the second night. The first night we indulged at Black Cow Bistro in Launceston city centre. And what an indulgence. We shared the 1kg Longhorn special. Medium rare. Being the designated driver I had a glass of Cabernet Merlot whilst Mrs C started with a glass of bubbles and pushed on with a couple of glasses of local Syrah. Impeccable food and impeccable service. Highly recommended. 

Night two in Launceston was a little closer to home. Literally. We walked down the steps from our room, “The Loft”, came outside and entered next door. In a converted barn, with only three tables immaculately laid out for dinner service. Having a reputation that means you have to book in advance to get a seat, the restaurant at Red Feather is something that will be long remembered. 

A set four course meal started with an amuse bouche before moving onto an entree of quail. Quail is something I have only recently discovered and this was an exceptional dish. Unsure what the etiquette was for stripping every morsel from the tiny bones, I was pleased to see my fellow diners each with bones in their hands. Main was a sous vide steak cooked to medium rare perfection, and paired beautifully with the bottle of local Pinot Noir. How they cook the steak so well is beyond me but my only job was to enjoy it. Which I did. Did I also have room for the decadent chocolate torte dessert? You bet I did. 

In and around Launceston

Exploring Launceston is a delight and it soon became my favourite city in Tasmania. On the edge of town is Cataract Gorge, somewhere we had been recommended to visit. And the visit was worth it just to have a trip on the longest single span chairlift in the world. Something one of us enjoyed more than the other. Mrs C was not impressed when the chair stopped suddenly, just as we were at our highest point over the river.

Tamar Valley

Tasmania is rightly famous for its quality wines as much as it is the whisky. And much of the wine comes from Tamar Valley. A short 30 minute drive from the city and we were sat in Moores Hill winery, having a tasting and a platter lunch. With the sun shining off the river and with views down rolling hills and across the vines, we raised a glass and shared how grateful we were.

Heading East and part 3 of the Road trip

Rolling out of Launceston towards the next stage of our holiday, exploring Tasmania’s east coast, and the numerous wineries, we were left counting our blessings to have already had the best part of a week exploring this beautiful part of Australia.

The best bit? We still have time left to find some more whisky distilleries.