Into Austria we go

Entering country number 15

As we left Switzerland by train, crossing the border, (such a scenic train ride), we entered the 15th country of our travels. We took a moment to reflect on the last 6 months. Leaving Perth back in June seems like a very long time ago. We left Australia in winter, spent the summer touring through the UK and now, winter rolls around again. The northern hemisphere version. A much colder version than we are used to at home. 

The year so far has been an exploration and the exploring continues in Austria. This is the first time either of us have visited Austria. We started in Innsbruck and would end in Vienna. From that point our plans dry up. Post Vienna we didn’t know where the road would take us. As it turned out, it wasn’t a road, but more on that in a later blog.

A cold xmas

Back in the height of the UK summer, and yes, this year was a great summer, we romanticised about a cold xmas. The first for 10 years. It is fair to say that I have acclimated to the Australian weather, and a slight drop in temperature sends me searching for my jumpers. Sat in Yorkshire, in August, in a t-shirt, did I ever think we would really stay around as the cold weather set in?

And yet, there we were. Walking from the train station at Innsbruck to our hotel. Woolly hats kept our head and ears warm. Our destination was the Marktbar Studios, sitting on the banks of the river Inn. We had great views across the river, and the nearby snow capped mountains. 

A winter wonderland 

The next day saw us going to the very top of one of those mountains. The highest. A funicular, followed by two cable car rides had us at the “Top of Innsbruck”. Where it was actually snowing. And -6°. Holy moly. We walked in deep snow. I made snowballs. A Japanese tourist nearby was enthusiastically making snow angels, imploring her partner to video her. She was very excited. And rightly so. This was a real winter wonderland. 

At -6 degrees there was only so long we could have a snowball fight for, and so, we headed inside to the cafe for a warming glühwein. Checking our mental “cost of living indicator” we were pleased to see that prices had dropped significantly from Switzerland. So much so that I could even afford a hearty slice of apple strudel. Living the dream.

Hiccups on the rails

Travel has a funny way of throwing you challenges. And bringing the dream to a halt. A snap 24 hour train strike across the whole of Austria put paid to our plan of leaving Innsbruck. We had to scramble to create a plan B. Thankfully, the apartment we were in was free so we booked a second night in this wonderful city. The downside was we couldn’t amend our onward hotel in Salzburg so would end up being there two nights, rather than three. 

The extra day allowed for more exploring of the Christmas markets. If Zurich set the bar high for Xmas markets, Innsbruck raised it. Set up all around this small town the Austrians had gone all out. So festive. Fabulous lights. So many market stalls. And so much glühwein. Obviously.  We even bought our very own mug that will hopefully make it all the way back to Australia with us.

Salzburg

How would the home of Mozart compare? Our next stop in Austria was Salzburg. A city that is overseen by the very impressive fortress. Hohensalzburg Fortress started in the year 1077, and added to over the years, it now welcomes over a million tourists every year. On a clear day, looking across the German border you could probably pick out Eagles Nest. 

Eagles Nest

Inaugurated in 1939 by Hitler, for his 50th birthday, Eagles Nest is now firmly on the “Dark Tourism” trail. Places around the world that have become infamous, drawing the curious traveller. It was used as an Allied command centre until 1960, at which point it was handed back to the state of Bavaria. It now operates as a restaurant and beer garden

Back in the centre of Salzburg, we visited Mozartplatz, dominated by a large ice rink. My first, and only experience on the ice was at the rink set up in winter at Bondi Beach. Based on how well I did that day I chose to give the rink a miss and headed inside for a delicious hot chocolate, laced with a shot of rum. 

Graz

Looking at a map of Austria, considering where to go, en route to Vienna, we landed on Graz. A city of less than 300,000, it is less known for tourism than some of the places we had been. So, we got all the best of a European winter, the Xmas markets and festive lights, without the mass tourism that plagues many cities in Europe. 

Arriving on a cold, wet evening once again we were impressed by the infrastructure these European cities have. Off the train and mere steps to the connecting tram that whisked us through the old town and close to our hotel. Our mission was to dry off and find somewhere warm for a schnitzel dinner.

Graz proved to be an inspired choice for a couple of days. The Xmas markets were excellent. The weather was dry, and bitingly cold. And we felt as though we were seeing a slice of authentic Austrian life. 

Vienna

Why couldn’t I talk about Vienna without serenading Victoria to “Oh, Vienna”?  I’m sure it got very tiresome. Very quick. What didn’t get tiresome was exploring the historic centre of Vienna. A city we had both been very excited to visit. It was Vienna that initially gave us the idea of visiting the Xmas markets all those months ago. If the stars had aligned a little better we would have even been able to meet up with my oldest friend. Next time, mate?

But those markets. Oh my word. Vienna is the place to be for Xmas markets. From the ones in Maria-Theresien-Platz, to across the road at Rathausplatz, and to the cute little ones hugging the side streets in Spittelberg. It won’t surprise you that the count of Xmas decorations that Victoria has bought increased through our stay in Vienna. With the markets comes a lot of choice for food. I just loved this beef goulash served in a bread bowl. Delicious.

Mooching through Vienna reminded me of strolling the streets of Rome. Buildings on a vast scale. So many of them. Most from the Austro Hungarian empire you can only stop and stare. Vienna really lived up to any and all expectations we had. Over a final gluhwein we discussed where we should head next. Our European adventure looked to be drawing to a close. 

The question was, where would we be tomorrow?