Explore with Fran

I take a sip of my steaming coffee, the strong smell of caffeine mingling with the aromas of the eucalyptus and rose gum trees I am surrounded by. Curious kangaroos have come out to graze, and every so often take a sneaky upwards glance at me, assessing whether I am a threat. Perhaps sensing my peace, they nonchalantly disregard me, and continue grazing. The only noise to compete with their munching of the leaves is the twitter of birds high in the canopy above me. A kookaburra’s laugh sounding as though he is mocking me. A poor human who has to come away from his “real life” to enjoy this side of nature. A human who has come to spend a weekend in Busselton.

We are spending the weekend at Tree Chalets in Busselton. Staying in one of two eco chalets nestled amongst hundreds of trees and with enough space between them to have you thinking you are all alone. Marketed as “simple luxury”, each chalet is well appointed, with a quality of fit out you don’t see in many high end hotels. On the back deck there is one of the most impressive baths I have seen, but more on that later. There is also a Tesla charger, and judging by the amount of Teslas we see driving around Perth on a daily basis, I suspect these chargers will be popular.

Exploring Busselton

Busselton is situated some 2 and half hours drive south of Perth, and is somewhere we have called in at on many occasions, with its proximity to the beautiful Margaret River region. In recent years the foreshore has been tastefully developed with the latest addition, Shelter Brewery, providing a haven for craft beer lovers and pizza aficionados alike. I see that a Hilton hotel is currently in development and I hope they keep the build to a low level, as at present the skyline is not marred by anything higher than the local pine trees.

On our first day we ventured a couple of streets back from the foreshore and had lunch at Rocky Ridge taphouse. The original farm and brewery is located at Jindong, with the traditional custodians of the land being the Wadandi people. The tap house in Busselton is possibly amongst the most picturesque breweries I have been to. Built in a converted cottage, with a large garden at the back and plenty of shaded seats at the front, we spent a leisurely afternoon sampling a paddle of beers, of which there were over 20 to choose from, and had a cheeseburger, which are made by the legends of Margaret River Burger Company.

Looking Back on The Start

Back at the Tree Chalets, with my newly purchased growler from Rocky Ridge, I was able to have a cold beer on the deck, looking out to the trees, contemplating how much I had needed this break. I started 2022 with some clear intentions. Complete the work required to apply to be an Associate Certified Coach (ACC) with the International Coaching Federation, and finish my university studies. I have now done all I can for both and am awaiting the results. With this hard work behind me I am able to have a weekend with nothing on my mind. And it feels liberating. Sipping my drink, it hits me that I don’t have to be anywhere, or do anything, other than sit, relax and be.

And talking of relaxing, there is that bath. A huge, pristine enamel bath on the back deck of the chalet. A bath that fits two. With our chilled champagne, a self catered dinner of meats and cheeses, and a full bath, we spent the afternoon chatting through our last two years. The challenges everyone has faced, and what the next two years might bring. The world seems to be finally getting a grip on omicron. We are both now triple vaccinated. And borders are starting to open up. This is the most “certainty”, which I still say loosely, that we have had in a very long time. Dare we start to make plans?

As the sun slowly set, and the night sky appeared, it is easy to see why “dark skies tourism” is destined to be the next big thing in West Australia. With the majority of the population living in and around Perth, the regional areas have large masses of space with very little artifical lighting. The views of the milky way are quite astounding. Sit still long enough you are guaranteed to see at least one shooting star, and several satellites making their way across the galaxy.

Supporting Local Businesses

Back on earth, our immediate plan for Saturday was to explore the area around Busselton, and with that we found ourselves being greeted by Polly the kelpie dog, up at Whicher Ridge Wines. Cathy took us through a tasting of 5 wines each, a good mix of sauvignon blanc, viognier, shiraz, and cabernet sauvignon. We had agreed not to buy anymore wine on our travels across the state, simply because there is no way we will get through the stockpile we have at home. However, the wines were so good that we selected three to take away. 

Chatting with Cathy we got a feel for how tough the hospitality industry has had it, especially with the Western Australia hard border for the last two years. We have been described in various quarters as a hermit kingdom. It is hard to disagree. We have cut ourselves off from the rest of Australia, and the world, and businesses have suffered greatly as a result.

If you are going to have a weekend in Busselton, please get out and continue to support local businesses. In keeping with this, we headed down the road to have lunch at Hippo Lakes cafe. Another family run business, we were delighted to hear that they were BYO and promptly went to collect a bottle of cabernet sauvignon from the car. Hippo Lakes is in the process of obtaining a liquor licence and will eventually sell the very same wine, from Whicher Ridge. Businesses supporting businesses. 

The Busselton Jetty Swim

Our final day had us up early and heading towards the iconic Busselton Jetty. Today was the annual Busselton Jetty Swim, a 3.6km open swim around the jetty. Andrew at Tree Chalets had told us about how they start races “in the country”, which is with a shotgun. And he wasn’t kidding. We were there in good time to see a member of the local police force fire off his shotgun, prompting the 8am start to the race.

Some 38 minutes after that 8am start, the winner was leaving the water and crossing the finish line. A 19 year old local kid broke his own record. He has now won the race for the last 3 years, and apparently his preferred distance is 10k. Almost superhuman. I also had a personal connection to the race as my friend was participating. Not a swimmer, at least not until recently, Alistair had bravely entered the race knowing it would be far from easy.

Easy it certainly wasn’t, but I was proud to see him complete the race, achieving a massive personal milestone. He said that with his shoulder being in great pain, he swam the last third of the race with one arm. The lifeguards were doing their best to help and support Ali, perhaps even offering him an easy way out, but with a mental strength I am in awe of, he persevered, and he can now add this race to his impressive life CV.

Final reflections on a weekend in Busselton

My CV includes a long list of breweries I have visited in my life, and to mark the end of a great weekend away in Busselton we called back into the beautiful Rocky Ridge for a final coldie. Sat in the shade, we shared what we were both grateful for in life, and raised our glasses, toasting another great experience and planning for the next one.

What is “average”?

Let’s try a thought experiment. How long does the average person live? Notwithstanding I don’t know what the “average” person is, if we just use this measure, how many years do you think this “average” person would live for? How about we agree on 80 years old. And if said person was to live to the ripe old age of 80, how many weeks would you guess this is?

Go on. Have a guess. Without Google and without a calculator. Off the top of your head, how many weeks? I have been reading a new book called “4000 Weeks”, and yes, if we live to 80 years old, we will have 4000 weeks at our disposal.

The problem is, many of us have already used up a large portion of these 4000 weeks. A decade ago, (a decade? Seriously, a decade??), I wrote a blog about it being “Half Time”, and as I turned 40, what changes did I want, or need to make in the second half, to use a football analogy.

Past the half way mark

I am well and truly in the second half now. As I turn 50, and using 4000 weeks as an average (total) length of my lifetime, I now have 1564 weeks left. This feels scary. It feels way too short. And it feels very real, reminding me of one of my favourite quotes, “memento mori”. Literally, remember we die, but more abstractly, I see this as a stark reminder to live. Being acutely aware of our guaranteed demise brings into sharp focus for me the need to live a life of purpose. A life of adventure. A life that I look back on at the close of my 4000 weeks and say, “yeah, I am happy with that”.

This is the reason I do this blog on an annual basis. Or at least, annual-ish. We are in the second week of January already and before we know it we will have Easter eggs adorning the shelves in Woolworths. I reflect on the year that has just passed, and look back at what my intentions for the year were. Balancing the books to determine whether I achieved what I set out to achieve, and if I have in fact lived the last year in the way I wanted to live it.

What is left to say abut 2021 that hasn’t already been said?

2021 has again been a year that we didn’t expect. We said this about 2020 and I genuinely thought the world was starting to turn the corner. Then, along came Delta, and more recently, Omicron, and suddenly it feels like Groundhog Day. Countries are closing down, not opening up. COVID cases are going up, not down. And we are back to wearing masks indoors. 

And yet, the year has been very good to us. The absolute highlight being April when we took ourselves off to Margaret River and eloped to the forest. I could never have predicted how perfect the whole experience would be. Staying at the Empire Spa Retreat in Yallingup for 3 nights was a great way to relax and enjoy the big day. Vasse Felix was the ideal place to celebrate the nuptials the day after with a delicious degustation lunch. And the best hotel in Australia, Como The Treasury was the absolute perfect place to celebrate our mini-moon.

We were on the move, again

The year started in the cottage that had been our home for some months. A home that we had grown very attached to. Lazy Sunday afternoon BBQs in the back garden became a highlight. Sadly, our landlords returned from Queensland and we had to move once our year rental was up. Thankfully, we didn’t have to move far. We are actually on the same road, except we had to move back to apartment living. You may remember the washing machine debacle, the very week we moved in. I don’t think I will forget it.

The long awaited travel sabbatical

In terms of travel, it is now pushing on 3 years since we were last allowed to leave Australia. This continues, with Western Australia still locking out the rest of the world, and locking us in. We had planned my big 50th celebration over Xmas in Queensland and this got cancelled a week before we were due to leave as a result of the ever changing border restrictions. Thankfully, Mrs C is very organised and within minutes we had a new plan. Three nights on Rottnest Island over Xmas, and two nights in the port city of Fremantle for New Year.

We have managed to get on a plane this year, having a great holiday in Broome, north WA, and a fabulous road trip around Tasmania, somewhere we would both like to spend more time. We have also taken the opportunity to explore even more of this vast state we live in. Western Australia has so much to see and we have spent many (not enough?) weekends in Margaret River. This truly is our happy place and I suspect there will be much more of it in our future.

Winter is not that cold over here in the west, but weekends in picture postcard little country towns Bridgetown and Nannup allowed us to witness the changing seasons with leaves on the trees turning a beautiful golden brown. It also gives us the opportunity to book a cottage with an open fire and spend the evening relaxing with a bottle of red wine. Perfection.

With our state premier (dictator) promising to catch up with the rest of Australia, and open our borders in February, we have renewed hope that 2022 will be the year we finally get on the road for our travels. Just a slight delay of two years, but the best things come to those that wait.

I became a professional coach

Whilst we have been waiting to travel I have been continuing with my personal development. In the last year I have been deep on a journey of discovery and learning, training to be a professional coach. With a few remaining activities to complete, I should soon be able to apply for my Associate Certified Coach (ACC) credential with the International Coaching Federation. This will be a massive milestone for me and something I will be very proud of. It is too early to determine what comes next after this.

On the education front, I have been at university, studying for a Graduate Certificate in Organisational Coaching and Leadership. At the time of writing I have about 6 weeks left before I complete this. As much as I love learning, and will continue to learn, what I have discovered is that I don’t like academic writing. Something that is critical to being a university student. A good reflection and this gives me pause for thought before I commit to any future courses.

What comes next?

What I am happy to commit to is that we will continue to enjoy life. Despite the restrictions we are all facing across the world, we know how fortunate we are and are very grateful for the opportunities 2021 provided to us. Life is not something that eventually happens to you. It is what happens now. In every moment. The present.

“How we spend our days is of course how we spend our lives.” – Annie Dillard

The next time we speak, the world may have changed again. For us, or against us. Time to embrace complexity and see what emerges. Either way, I am excited.

What has been happening in the world of Mr and Mrs C? You may have read that after 64 weeks we finally escaped Western Australia for a holiday. The original plan was to visit Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road. Replacing the trip that got cancelled back in March 2020. The trip that was to kick start our world travels. We know how that worked out.

Best laid plans, and all that

We planned to finally do the trip, had the accommodation and flights booked and along came Delta. And again, the trip was binned. Looking at the state of the internal borders in Australia, and places we could travel to and return to fortress WA from without quarantining, our options were few.

And so we found ourselves doing a road trip around the very beautiful Tasmania. Something I would highly recommend. Thankfully we were allowed to enter Tasmania, and return to Perth without quarantine at either end. Something of a luxury in Australia at the moment. Tasmania exceeded all our expectations. We had been to Hobart previously, and this time we had a car and really explored this beautiful small island.

Will we escape from Australia?

The holiday blues were somewhat ameliorated by hearing that airlines will recommence international flights out of Australia by the end of the year. The Australian government has committed to a plan to have borders open once we reach 80% double dose of the COVID vaccination. This is slated to be November. This is every State Premier except one. Ours. McGowan is refusing to budge and wants to keep Perth in its little bubble. 

This will not deter us as we now start seriously considering when to finally start our overseas travel. If the international borders within Perth remain closed through the start of 2022 we will road trip to Adelaide, perhaps FINALLY doing the Great Ocean Road trip, and then fly out to Asia from Melbourne.

On the move again

In news that was rather less exciting for us, and rather a blow, we got notice that our landlords were returning to Perth and decided they wanted to move back into the house we had blissfully rented for a year. Knowing how horrendous the Perth rental market is we were not relishing trying to find somewhere new to live. Thankfully, our existing agents found an apartment on the same road and we have recently moved ourselves there. Literally, we moved ourselves. A few trips in a car. A few more in a ute and we are in. 

The week we moved turned into a bit of a nightmare. Last year, thinking we were only around in Perth for a short while, we chose to rent a washing machine rather than buy one. Day 2 of the recent move saw us having the rental company move the washing machine from the old house to the new apartment. The evening of day 2 saw us returning after a walk to find the apartment under water. Literally under water. With more of it gushing out of the tap that was supposed to be connected to the washing machine. The pipe had not been correctly fitted and had come off whilst we were out. We did not even have a wash running. Cue me furiously trying to bail the water out whilst we waited for the emergency tradesman to turn up.

Getting back to normal

Two weeks later. After many carpet blowers blowing. A weekend in a hotel to avoid the noise and smell of wet carpets. And a complete refit of the underlay through the whole apartment and we seem to be back on an even keel. Hopefully all the dramas are now behind us and we can see out the remaining 5 months of our lease in relative peace. Once this lease is up, who knows what will happen. Vaccination rates continue to climb, both here and internationally. Countries are starting to open up for travel again. And even Fortress Australia looks to be rejoining the world.

Daring to dream

Some two years after leaving our home in Sydney to travel the world on an extended sabbatical, the dream may finally be coming true. And as was the “plan” two years ago, we will have no real itinerary. We plan to head to Singapore first and then spend a few months exploring south east Asia. At some point we will head to the vineyards of Europe and the islands of the Mediterranean before heading to the UK for a long overdue catch up with family and friends. Life is too short to be away from our loved ones for so long. 

But, before we get ahead of ourselves, we first have a few action packed months. A birthday each to celebrate in November and December. Another Perth summer to enjoy. A couple of trips to our beloved Margaret Riverwine region and a holiday to another of my happy places, Hamilton Island in Queensland. 

All of course, subject to this pesky virus.

Exploring the East Coast of Tasmania

Launceston was over way too soon. I had found a city that I felt a connection with. So much historic and interesting architecture, natural beauty, and food to keep me happy for a very long time. The Tamar Valley alone could fill our weekends for a whole year. Did I mention there is also a very good whisky distillery? What I hadn’t known at the time, but found out since is that Launceston is also home to a tram. Despite the last official line closing in 1952, there is still a tram you can board for short tours, courtesy of the Launceston Tramway Museum, set up to keep the history alive from the days when trams criss crossed this beautiful city.

We were travelling a little further than a tram could take us today, heading east of Launceston to our next destination of Bicheno. Taking the scenic route, is there any alternative whilst travelling in Tasmania, and going via the Bay of Fires. We packed up the backpacks, loaded the bullet, and bid a fond farewell to the Red Feather Inn. Somewhere we would definitely return to.

Today was about arriving, rather than returning, and we were headed for Bicheno (pronounced Bish-u-No), on the east coast. As luck would have it, our visit to the east coast of Tasmania was coinciding with the Great Eastern Wine Week. Who knew? What started out as a long weekend to celebrate the wine growers of the region became so popular that there is a whole week dedicated to it. And, as you may have heard, we have always enjoyed celebrating wine.

Lunch stop in St Helens

Before wine there is coffee and I had my second of the day with a good eggs and bacon lunch at the Life Buoy café in St Helens, a small village just a few kilometres shy of Binalong Bay. Binalong Bay is the heart of the “Bay of Fires”, the area so called for the fires of the Aboriginals that were spotted from the passing ships of early European explorers. We called in at Binalong Bay for the views. Dramatic wind swept coastal views right across the bay. And some excellent beaches too that would need a warner day than we had to fully enjoy.

Back in the car, and warm again, we drove an hour south, along the coast, to Bicheno, a small coastal town with a population of just over 800 people. I was immediately taken by how much this reminded me of some of the villages on the west coast of New Zealand. A friendly feel as soon as you arrived. Taking a walk later in the day, the dark clouds drew in and brought the rain. Perfect fish and chips weather. Although, I have used that excuse on a glorious sunny day in summer too!

Where to get fish and chips in Bicheno

When it comes to fish and chips you have two options right on the coast in Bicheno. The Lobster Shack and the rather more rustic (scruffy) looking Tasmanian Coastal Seafoods. We chose the latter and Mrs C’s face was a picture when we ordered at the front counter. The small space looked like a dilapidated kitchen and there were more dead flies in the counter then there were fish.

However, we had read the reviews, trusted our instincts, ordered the food, and bought a couple of beers to while away the 30 minute wait. Yes, they were busy, despite the decor. I think the waiting room was actually the indoor restaurant area. In the cold wet evening it looked derelict but for the other patrons hunched over in their padded jackets and woolly hats.

Some 40 minutes later our takeaway arrived and we were back in the car, driving through the rain, the short drive back to the apartment. And the verdict? Very good fish and chips. Not quite the quality of Blakeley’s in Brighouse, but this is Australia. When it comes to fish and chips you have to lower your standards a little.

Time to sample the Great Eastern Wine Week

As the sun shone brightly on our second day in Bicheno we drove out to visit a couple of vineyards to celebrate Great Eastern Wine Week. First up, Devil’s Corner, in the midst of a large renovation that will bring a large new restaurant, outdoor seating area and enhanced cellar door experience. For now we opted for a flight of 3 wines to sample in the makeshift tent, doing a great job shielding us from the cold wind whipping off the sea.

Craigie Knowe vineyard, a little further along the road, had a ticketed event and we (Mrs C) had the foresight to get tickets. There was a live band, food truck, pop up patisserie, local beer stall, and all the Craigie Knowe wines to sample. This time we simply opted for a glass each. We picked up a chocolate éclair and a cheesecake (small, obviously), standing in the sun listening to the music. 

There was a great turnout and I am always pleased to see small local businesses doing well in a time when 70% of their tourism has dropped off. These tourists come from the state of Victoria, of which Melbourne is the state capital. They are currently doing it very tough in COVID and are unable to travel outside the state. I am sure West Australians alone are not making up the difference in tourist numbers to Tasmania but we are doing all we can to help.

Bicheno Beams

The small town of Bicheno was doing well in attracting people despite it being the end of winter and the fact there is a pandemic. And winter here in Tasmania is cold. Despite the cold, each night the locals put on a laser and music show at 6.45pm. This evening there was also a sausage sizzle in aid of the local kids raising funds to build a skate park. We bypassed the sausage sizzle and picked up a couple of pizzas whilst walking home from the laser show. Slowly sipping tonight’s choice of Tasmanian whisky nightcap I was left to reflect on another great day, sadly a day closer to the end of the trip.

Time for Triabunna

Our last night in Tasmania was to be spent in Triabunna, small coastal town with a population of 874. Our accommodation was a tiny renovated cottage on an old orchard, Rostrevor. A book in the cottage provided a fascinating potted history of the orchard and the people who worked there over the years.

From what I had read about Triabunna there were two things worth doing. One was get the boat over to Maria Island, for which we had no time, and the other was to visit the Fish Van. I kid you not. The Fish Van is fast becoming a tourist attraction in its own right. Whilst having a whisky and gin tasting at the excellent Spring Bay distillery, it was recommended to us for dinner. It seems we were having our second fish and chips of the holiday.

Now, let me manage your expectations. This really is a van. Selling fish. And chips. So, this is what we had for dinner. And were they as good as the ones in Bicheno? Well, the fish was bigger. This always gets extra marks from me. The chips were similar. Typical Aussie chips. More like French fries than what I get served up in the UK. All up, a very good dinner, for $12 each, which was a lot cheaper than the ones a couple of nights ago.

Dinner finished, we spent the rest of the evening keeping warm in the cottage, finishing the bottle of Pinot Gris that we had started with dinner. My nightcap, the final one of the trip, was from Fannys Bay, back up on the North East coast. I added a couple of drops of water to bring out the flavour. This was one of the nicest whiskies I had had. And I had a few. Not peaty, yet I could taste something coming through. Maybe a hint of smoke. I just wish I had bought a bigger bottle.

The Final Day of the Tasmanian Road Trip

Thankful this morning that I hadn’t drunk a whole bottle of whisky, we had breakfast in the cottage. Simple vegemite on toast and a couple of strong coffees before hitting the road again. We opted for a light breakfast knowing that we had lunch booked for 12pm at Frogmore Creek Estate on the outskirts of Hobart. We broke up the journey in Sorrel with a coffee at the excellent Uncle Alby’s. Only open for the last 6 months, the barista told me they had built up quite a local clientele. Thankfully, the lack of interstate tourists wasn’t hitting them too hard. With coffee this good, I sense a good future for this little local business. 

Lunch was a little more grand. Sat in the restaurant at Frogmore Creek, over looking the vines, with the sun hitting the windows, we were served with some delicious food. We shared a portion of the scallops and then shared a couple of main dishes, splitting the beautiful pork belly and lamb back strap between us. A glass of Cabernet Sauvignon finished things off perfectly.

And back to Hobart

Then, the holiday was finished off. We dropped the bullet back off at Bargain Rentals with Amit refusing to check the car over and telling Mrs C that he would “be in touch if there was anything wrong”. He was dealing with the wrong woman, people. She told him, in no uncertain terms that there was nothing wrong and that she did NOT expect to be hearing from him. I hid outside, minding the bags.

A pint in the Customs House pub on the the waterfront, killed a little time before jumping in an Uber to the airport. We managed a short visit to the business class lounge (it only opens 1 hour ahead of your flight departing), and then we were on our way home. With a time difference of -2 hours in Perth, we landed at 10.30pm And tomorrow? Back to work and a check of the calendar for when we can next get away.

Hobart to the North Coast

The weekend flew by and before we knew it it was Monday morning and sadly time to leave Hobart. This meant we needed a hire car, and after searching for quite some time the cheapest I could find was Bargain Rentals. The clue, reader, is in the name.  Did I tell you I was from Yorkshire?

However, Amit was very friendly when we went to collect our car, and he did have a very warm office. Very warm. And he was wearing multiple layers. Now, I know it was still the back end of Winter but the office was like a sauna. Not somewhere you want to linger and spend some time debating the merits of purchasing additional insurance, or a GPS. By the way, does anybody seriously use these nowadays? With Google Maps programmed we were heading north from Hobart.

Our Trusty Steed

It may not have had built in GPS, but I had Google Maps. The car did have electric windows so that was a start. Mrs C described it as a bullet and I wasn’t sure if that was a compliment or not. I just hoped it would safely take us around Tasmania for the next 7 nights.

Our First Vineyard in Tasmania

So far so good with the bullet and just over 3 hours after leaving Hobart we were rolling into the car park of Ghost Rock winery on the north coast. We were booked in for a wine tasting and then lunch. Lunch was outstanding and from the wine tasting we each picked a glass to complement our food. Tasmania was quickly taking on a theme and it centred around food and drink.

A short drive from Ghost Rock, along the coast, was to be our home for the next two nights. The Cove. And let me tell you, it is breathtaking. I hadn’t booked it, trusting this job to Mrs C, and was unsure of what to expect.

And then there was The Cove

We got a very friendly welcome from Kim on reception who is part of the family that has farmed the land for generations and The Cove is the latest addition to the landscape. Only open since March 2021, this is luxury redefined. The exposed cliff top has been transformed into three luxury en suite chalets, two glamping tents and five separate cabins with shared facilities. There is a main building, called the Alexander Center that houses a massive luxury kitchen, a huge, warm lounge, and plenty of outside seats, strategically placed around the fire pit.

The weather was wild and blustery the two nights that we spent there. And this was perfect from my point of view. Shielded from the weather, wind and rain hammering against the windows, glass of wine in hand, safe and secure. On the second night I even took a bath, with views out across the Bass Straight as I had a long soak.

The morning started with a short walk along the cliff top, contemplating what we were making of Tasmania so far. And it was overwhelmingly positive. Such a beautiful, very accessible country. Short drives, which makes a nice change from driving in Western Australia, and such lush scenery. Many times we remarked on how much it reminded us of certain parts of the UK.

Hell yes, to Hellyers

Did I mention that Tasmania has quite the reputation for whisky? Well, just along the coast from The Cove is the highly regarded Hellyers Road Distillery, so obviously I booked us in for a visit. We actually had lunch, which was very good, before I indulged in a flight of their best whiskies. Thankfully, today I wasn’t the skipper so didn’t have to worry about driving us home. After seeing the size of the whiskies I breathed a sigh of relief.

Pick up a Penguin

Ok, not a reference that everyone will get, but I am sure many of the UK readers will. If you are in Australia, think Tim Tams.

Driving west from the Cove, along the road that hugs the coast, we followed the train line as it snaked along to Penguin. An actual town called Penguin, with a population just under 4000 people. First settled in 1861, it was named Penguin by the botanist Ronald Campbell Gunn, for the many penguins that inhabit this part of the coast.

Penguin has a lovely feel to it, strolling from the church at one end, past the local library, with current restrictions of 8 people at any one time, and serendipitously onto the Penguin Beer Co.

Beer o’clock in Penguin

Loving both penguins and beer, we could not resist calling in. And it turns out our timing was perfect. The bar had only been open for 7 weeks. A large, modern looking fit out, with a wide range of Penguin beers on tap. We went for the Pale Ale and a Session Ale, took a seat by the window, and slowly supped whilst watching the waves crash up against the shore.

I think Penguin Beer Co is in for a successful run. There is nothing else in the small town quite like it and the “kids eat free” on Tuesdays offer is sure to bring the mums and dads in. Open mic night on Wednesdays could have tempted me but, alas, we had to move on.

Launceston

We were heading south, to Launceston, but not before calling in at Tasmania Food and Wine conservatory just off the A1. The building first caught our eye as we passed a couple of days earlier and being almost time for “elevenses” we swung in to the car park. In the middle of nowhere, you would expect it to be quiet, right? Think again. This, my friends, is Australia through the pandemic. Unable to travel internationally, most people are holidaying at home, meaning you often can’t get in anywhere without making a booking months in advance. But here?

Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory

We walked in just after 11am and immediately my heart sank. Tables full of reserved signs. On closer inspection these were mainly for lunch so we were able to grab a table just for a coffee and a cup of tea. Mrs C had also spied the jam donuts so it wasn’t long before she had a dusting of sugar all around her mouth. The coffee was excellent as was the whole interior. Gourmet Tassie foods galore, but what caught my eye, and will come home with me, were the small bottles of Hobart whisky.

Whisky Galore

Tasmania has rightfully now got a global reputation for whisky, (I may have mentioned it), after being put on the map by Sullivan’s Cove. There are now distilleries the length and breadth of the country and I was doing my best to try them all. Next up, Launceston Distillery. Located a short 10 minute drive south of Launceston, next to the airport, in Hangar 17, this was a slice of Tasmania whisky culture served up in a big dash of Australian aviation history. 

Last used as the hangar for the now defunct Ansett Airlines, Chris Condon the head distiller has made it home. Having worked at some of the major whisky distilleries in Tasmania, Chris moved home to Launceston and started his own. And he is doing good. He gave us a talk on the history of the airfield, which started out as a grass paddock runway, right through to the present day, with Launceston Distillery producing a range of single malt whiskies. Having been guided through a tasting of 5 of their best I made my purchase. A whisky matured in tawny port casks. Delicious. 

Exploring the city of Launceston

Launceston is about an hour’s drive from where we started out this morning, Devonport, on the north coast. It is Tasmania’s second city after the state capital, Hobart. Within minutes of walking around we were immediately in awe of the architecture. Such beautiful, grand old buildings. On every block. And trying to count the number of churches was like being back in Adelaide. When my pal, Mr Walker, gets a final count I would love to hear the number. (Update: I believe there are in excess of 60).

Red Feather Inn

Not being the religious type, I hunted down a glass of wine instead, and Mojo’s fit the bill. A tasty lamb gozleme and a glass of local Pinot noir, we were up and running. Tonight we were staying at the very highly acclaimed Red Feather Inn. Again, it may surprise you, but this was not one of my bookings. A collection of historic convict built sandstone buildings dating from 1842, they have now been transformed into a luxury boutique bed and breakfast. Our home for the next couple of nights was to be “The Loft” room. And it was delightful.

There is also a restaurant on site and we had ourselves booked in for dinner on the second night. The first night we indulged at Black Cow Bistro in Launceston city centre. And what an indulgence. We shared the 1kg Longhorn special. Medium rare. Being the designated driver I had a glass of Cabernet Merlot whilst Mrs C started with a glass of bubbles and pushed on with a couple of glasses of local Syrah. Impeccable food and impeccable service. Highly recommended. 

Night two in Launceston was a little closer to home. Literally. We walked down the steps from our room, “The Loft”, came outside and entered next door. In a converted barn, with only three tables immaculately laid out for dinner service. Having a reputation that means you have to book in advance to get a seat, the restaurant at Red Feather is something that will be long remembered. 

A set four course meal started with an amuse bouche before moving onto an entree of quail. Quail is something I have only recently discovered and this was an exceptional dish. Unsure what the etiquette was for stripping every morsel from the tiny bones, I was pleased to see my fellow diners each with bones in their hands. Main was a sous vide steak cooked to medium rare perfection, and paired beautifully with the bottle of local Pinot Noir. How they cook the steak so well is beyond me but my only job was to enjoy it. Which I did. Did I also have room for the decadent chocolate torte dessert? You bet I did. 

In and around Launceston

Exploring Launceston is a delight and it soon became my favourite city in Tasmania. On the edge of town is Cataract Gorge, somewhere we had been recommended to visit. And the visit was worth it just to have a trip on the longest single span chairlift in the world. Something one of us enjoyed more than the other. Mrs C was not impressed when the chair stopped suddenly, just as we were at our highest point over the river.

Tamar Valley

Tasmania is rightly famous for its quality wines as much as it is the whisky. And much of the wine comes from Tamar Valley. A short 30 minute drive from the city and we were sat in Moores Hill winery, having a tasting and a platter lunch. With the sun shining off the river and with views down rolling hills and across the vines, we raised a glass and shared how grateful we were.

Heading East and part 3 of the Road trip

Rolling out of Launceston towards the next stage of our holiday, exploring Tasmania’s east coast, and the numerous wineries, we were left counting our blessings to have already had the best part of a week exploring this beautiful part of Australia.

The best bit? We still have time left to find some more whisky distilleries. 

Finally, back to the airport

A short ride from home, we made it to the Qantas domestic terminal at Perth airport in good time. Not that we needed to worry. A bag drop. A fast transfer through security, with no queues (a “benefit” of COVID?), and we soon had a glass of Australian sparkling wine in hand, people watching. How good are airports for this? Not the sparkling wine, although that IS good. The people watching. Find me a better place to just sit and watch humanity go about its daily business. Fascinating.

We had a 13.00 flight from gate 18 at Qantas terminal 4. I had thought that our flight to little Tasmania, one of the only places we can visit without the need to quarantine upon return, would be quiet. After seeing people in the airport with red and black scarves I quickly reassessed. Due to the pandemic, changes had been made on the mainland and now folk were heading to Tasmania for the Aussie Rules. Called the AFL, this is a weird mash up of 1970s porn star outfits and Gaelic football. Truly odd. It turns out the “Bombers”, whoever they are, play in Launceston on Sunday.

74 weeks in Western Australia

After 74 weeks in Western Australia we were finally leaving her borders. Who knew it would be so long? Way longer than we planned when we landed in March 2020 on our last minute flight from Sydney. What we hoped would be a brief hiatus to our world travel plans has turned into an extended stay in Australia’s largest state. 

We have been very fortunate to be living in Perth through the worst of the pandemic. What is now disappointing is the hard line taken by the pocket dictator, state premier Mark McGowan. Whilst the federal government is looking to a way of living with COVID, and some state premiers providing glimmers of hope to their residents once vaccination levels reach 70% to 80%, McGowan remains defiant. 

Just this week he reiterated his stance. Saying publicly that he “will not tolerate” the thought of opening WA up to the rest of Australia whilst COVID is in the community. Regardless of vaccination levels. Looking out across the world, rather than the insular Western Australia view, and seeing parts of the world living normal lives, does cause me angst and frustration. I have travel in my soul. A deeply ingrained wanderlust. Take that away and you take a piece of me away with you. I want to be whole again and I am not sure how long I can resist the lure of foreign lands.

Masked up, and not

Masks are mandatory in the airport and for the full length of your flight. We were grateful for the wine in the airport, giving us a brief respite from the uncomfortable, annoying feeling of wearing a mask. Being able to only remove them to eat and drink, on the plane never had I taken so long over a tiny pasta dish and a glass of, too chilled, Merlot. Not wanting to return to the confines of the mask I had a second cold mini bottle of red. 

Still being winter, and seeing that the temperatures in Tasmania were markedly lower than those we had been having in Perth, a bit more wine won’t do me any harm. It should add an extra layer of insulation for when we get to Hobart.

Wheels down in Hobart

The flight was scheduled for over 3 hours and we had wheels down in Hobart, Tasmania at 6.41pm, some two hours ahead of Australian Western Standard Time. Back on the same time zone we had whilst living in Sydney, this could play havoc with the timings of the Premier League games we want to watch. 

Hobart is the capital of Tasmania and whilst we had visited before, for a long weekend, we had never ventured further. This time will be different. After two nights in the capital city we will pick up a car and go on a road trip for just over a week. We have many wineries and whisky distilleries on our itinerary. For those in the know, I am told Tasmania is a foodies paradise. We should be able to keep ourselves entertained then as we have been know to like a bit of food and wine. And, I am partial to the odd drop of whisky.

One whisky tasting down and I already know it is going to be a good holiday. Watch this space for updates…