Explore with Fran

Entering Malaysia by boat

This was the second time on the world trip that we had arrived in a new country by boat. The first time being when we disembarked from the Norwegian Epic, after 9 days at sea, in a cold, wet New York City . Today, we were entering Malaysia through immigration at the port on Langkawi Island. This was after a two hour boat ride since clearing customs in Thailand.

Although I have previously travelled through Malaysia, Langkawi was a new destination for both of us. I wasn’t sure what to expect and there is always a sense of excitement when crossing the borders of neighbouring countries. How similar will they be? How hard will it be to adapt to (another) new currency? And, perhaps most importantly, what will the local beer be like*

Languid Langkawi

What we did find in those early days in Langkawi was that many of the restaurants did not serve alcohol. For the first time in as long as we could remember, we had dinners without an alcoholic drink. Never have we drunk so much Sprite. Due to sharia law in Malaysia, muslims are not allowed to consume alcohol. It follows that alcohol is a little harder to come by. We even saw mini marts, usually our go to for cheap beer, with signs in the window pointing out the fact that they don’t sell beer. 

Langkawi had the feel of a place that needed some love and attention. Possibly as a result of the pandemic, and a lack of tourists, many places looked abandoned, or run down. The beach was a wide expanse of sand, with lots of potential. Yet, there were few sun loungers or parasols to encourage lingering. We did what most people seemed to be doing, spending days around our hotel pool, wandering back out for dinner in the evening. 

We did do a trip whilst on Langkawi. To the mangrove forests of the Kilim Geoforest Park. An enjoyable day out on the river, exploring the natural beauty of Langkawi, with nearby Thailand in the distance. Cruising through the mangroves, sharing the forest with some very inquisitive monkeys. Monkeys that had the temerity to jump on board our boat and steal bottles of water. On this trip we are meeting some monkeys that are not endearing me to the species. 

Pressing on to Penang

Our plan was to jump on a boat from Langkawi, heading south. Yet, the effects of COVID linger in these parts of the world. The boat to Penang was out of service because of it. This left us having to jump on a plane for the 45 minute flight. If only all flights could be this short. On the island of Penang we were staying in Georgetown, the UNESCO listed heritage town. 

The Citadines is a chain of hotels we first came across whilst in Brussels, all those months ago. In Penang the Citadines was brand new. In a gorgeous, renovated heritage building. So new you could still smell the paint. It was a great place to rest our heads for three nights. Francis Light established modern Penang in 1786. Following the second World War, Penang merged with Malaysia which itself gained independence from Britain in 1957.

Wandering around Penang is a delight. Beautiful architecture. Hawkers selling local street food. And some of the best street art you will see. We happened across a couple and started reading about them. It turns out that Penang is a street art delight. One of the simple pleasures is going on a “treasure hunt” to find more. To see them all would take a lot longer than the 3 days we were in town. We will have to save the rest for the next time we are passing through.

From Penang to Kuala Lumpur

For now, we were back in the air. Another short flight. From Penang to the capital, Kuala Lumpur. Known locally as KL, this is a city that for me is so reminiscent of Singapore. Clean streets. Great hawker food. And some of the best shopping malls in the world. It is true that we weren’t here to shop, but after a long walk to see the Petronas Towers you can’t believe how welcome a bit of air conditioning is. A life saver. The Petronas Towers are the highest twin towers in the world but these are put in the shade by the new Merdeka 118 tower. The second highest building in the world after the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

Much like Singapore, KL has very diverse neighbourhoods. It was whilst strolling through Chinatown that we discovered KL has its very own street art. Our treasure hunt was back on. But first, coffee. I may have mentioned coffee in previous blogs, and how the coffee shop experience across southeast asia is off the scale. In KL we found a self proclaimed “Melbourne coffee shop”. I am afraid to say that whilst it was a decent drop, it wasn’t the quality of Melbourne.

On the bus to Melaka

Leaving KL and heading south we were able to eschew the airport this time. Our taxi dropped us at the out of town bus terminal and despite a 30 minute delay we still arrived in Melaka (Malacca) in good time. Melaka is another port town, colonised in the past due to its strategic location, much like Penang. In fact, at one point in the past the British destroyed the fort at Melaka, trying to encourage people to relocate to either Singapore or Penang, ports they deemed to be of more importance. 

Travelling in the way we have been doing for the last 10 months is an education in itself. We learn more than we ever could sat in a classroom. The colonial past of many countries is intertwined. With some countries, such as Britain, coming out looking less than favourabley. In building an empire, Britain subverted cultures, destroyed families, and imposed their will in places that were mostly not wanted. We look in horror at what Putin is doing to Ukraine. If we look in the mirror, what do we see?

Melaka is a very popular tourist town. And it is easy to see why. Weekend visits for nearby Singaporeans. European backpackers. And lots of Malaysian visitors. It is easy to see why the town is so popular. It is very easy on the eye with the many buildings painted in a vibrant red. And yes, it even has its own street art. With the town now protected by UNESCO I hope all the ugly high rise hotels I see on the outskirts of town don’t ever start encroaching on the lovely historical centre.

One day we took a river cruise. An activity that gets a lot of visitors. We joined a boat load of them and slowly cruised up the river, giving us a new perspective of the shophouses that line the river as it snakes its way north. En route there were a number of “ghost” stops that I imagine the boats stopping at in previous times. Like a lot of things we have encountered on our travels I wonder how much as been shaped by the pandemic, and how much will return to how it was.

Walking back along the river, later in the day, we got quite the shock. I have seen Komodo dragons in a zoo before. But never in real life. The size of these things give you a shock. I am sure, should they be inclined, they could drag me in the river and devour me. Thankfully, we survived, and I had to (absolutely had to) go for yet another coffee to calm my nerves.

A travel day like no other

It was time to leave Melaka, and Malaysia. We had somewhere to be. And it was going to take us a while to get there. Starting with a taxi to the bus station in Melaka. Then, a 3 hour bus ride across the border, clearing both Malaysian and Singaporean customs. A ride through Singapore. A taxi to Changi airport. Finally, a flight to Manila. Phew. I am tired just thinking about it and will save the next leg of the trip for the next blog.

*For those wondering, the “local” beer appeared to be Tiger. Despite being from across the border in Singapore, it was ubiquitous in Malaysia. And it only cost 92 cents a can (52p).

Heading south from Chiang Mai to Phuket

We loved our time in Chiang Mai. Our first visit and we were really impressed. Now, we were headed to a place that Time Magazine had just announced is in their “Top 50 Places in the World” list. Our second from this list, after visiting the beguiling Luang Prabang in Laos. Our short flight from Chiang Mai would have us landing in the pearl of Thailand.

Phuket is Thailand’s largest, and undoubtedly, most popular island. Who knew it was so popular with Russians escaping from the mess and turmoil that Putin has inflicted upon them? Russians visit Phuket in larger numbers than any other visiting visitors, and I read that many are now simply out staying their visas, and not returning to Russia. Their presence is felt in Phuket, from the menus that are translated from Thai into Russian, to the property signs that are enticing them to put down roots in Phuket.

Pool Life at T-Villa in Phuket

We didn’t plan to put down roots but we were staying on Phuket for six nights and we chose to stay at T-Villa. Only 10 minutes from Phuket Airport, we had a poolside villa and we were only a short walk from Nai Yang beach. It sounded like the perfect proposition. And so it proved to be. Lazy mornings at the beach. Chilled afternoons in the pool by the villa. And great evenings eating, barefoot, on the beach.  We have previously shared our love for Thai food and we were spoilt for choice. I even got a freshly prepared mango sticky rice. Oh my, it was so delicious.

We hired a scooter for a couple of days and headed down the busy, and smoggy, highway to Phuket old town, a ride of some 45 minutes. The town is in great shape. Some enterprising locals have revitalised many of the old shophouses and they now house excellent coffee shops and restaurants. The buildings are bright, colourful, and exude character. And, most importantly, serve great coffee.

Taking advantage of having the scooter we also explored some of the beaches that hug this wonderful coastline. Banana Beach was once a bit of a secret but the amount of scooters parked at the top of the hill told me that the cat was now firmly out of the bag. Nai Thon beach was a great place to park up and have lunch by the side of the ocean. Once we had made sense of the Russian menu.

The Boxing Day tsunami

It was hard to leave Phuket. It is a wonderful place to visit. But we had a minivan booked to take us a couple of hours up the coast. We left the island of Phuket and headed to the small town of Khao Lak. A town that has seen unimaginable disaster. On Boxing Day in 2004, an earthquake in Sumatra, Indonesia, caused a tsunami that affected many Indian Ocean countries. The full death count is estimated to be in the range of 250,000 lives. Khao Lak, a very small community, suffered immensely. Official estimates are that approximately 4000 people lost their lives. Unofficial estimates have the figure much higher, around 10,000, as there were many undocumented Burmese migrants who disappeared.

The community of Khao Lak has recovered and is once again thriving, with many beachside resorts catering for high numbers of tourists. We had a hotel by the beach, and once again we quickly settled into a slow pace of life. Leisurely morning breakfast and coffee, strolls along the beach, and then the days spent reading around the pool. I may have even experienced my first ever water slide, much to the surprise of an incredulous Victoria. I can’t recall having been on one in the past. Whilst it wasn’t the largest water slide in the world, it gave me great enjoyment. I felt 50 years old again.

Having fun with the locals

I also get great enjoyment from interacting with the locals. As a tourist in Asia you soon get used to the refrain of “where are you from?” When I replied that we live in Australia, all we got back, every time, was “G’day, mate, got any kangaroos?” Victoria, tiring of the fake Aussie accents, tried something new one day, wondering what the locals would reply if we said England. It may seem dated to our younger readers, but we got the reply of “lovely, jubbly.” Who knew Only Fools and Horses was so popular in Asia?

Krabi town was our next port of call. And it wasn’t as we expected, which often happens when travelling. I had images of a town like Chiang Mai in my mind. And we got somewhere a lot more like Vientiane, Laos. Krabi was not as vibrant as we expected. That said, after a few days exploring we did find things to love about it. And, something we definitely didn’t.

On a relaxing stroll through the mangrove forest we came across a group of small monkeys. They scattered, peacefully, when we were on the way in to the forest. This was probably their strategy. Because, when we tried to leave, things got nasty. It appears they had appointed a “bouncer” and this piece of work was determined not to let us pass. Now, I have heard these tales of unfriendly swans, and I am sure a big duck can be quite scary. But wait until you have faced off with a troop of snarling, teeth baring, monkeys, lunging at you. I had to use my water bottle as a sword to fight them off. There was no way out. We were trapped. Thankfully, we walked deeper into the forest and found a path, which took us through a small village, and back to the main road.

Much friendlier was the “9th House” guesthouse. A simple, clean place on the edge of town. Nearby we discovered Much & Mellow, serving some excellent coffee, and even better pain au chocolats. The Friday night markets provided us with some great fun, having a range of street food for dinner, and watching the local musicians whilst we sipped our cold beers. As with a lot of places around the world, Thailand has legalised cannabis, and it is hard to avoid the unmistakable whiff of people smoking joints. I am not sure whether it was the buzz off the happy hour beers, or from second hand cannabis smoke, but we had a great evening.

One of the highlights of any stay in Krabi is getting a long boat to Railay Beach. Only a 15 minute ride from the town of Ao Nang, Railay Beach is quite stunning, if somewhat crowded. A victim of its own success. 

Koh Phi Phi island, both of them

As we moved on we were to visit another such place. Phi Phi island is a small, dumbbell shaped island that is now overrun with development. So much so that the small island struggles to manage the waste of sewerage that so many visitors produce. We visited the island, Phi Phi Don, on a snorkelling trip and a quick walk around the island rubber stamped our decision not to stay on the island. The pungent stench of sewerage is pervasive. 

If it is good enough for Leo Di Caprio…

It was whilst being based on the island of Koh Lanta that we did the snorkelling trip. We got to visit the smaller of the Phi Phi islands, Lee. Lee is home to Maya Bay, made famous by the film, “The Beach”, starring Leo Di Caprio. At one time so overrun with tourists, it was closed down for a period and is open once again, under rather strict measures. Swimming in the bay is no longer allowed and is policed by over zealous guards tooting their shrill whistles continuously. Mooring the boat off the island did allow for Victoria to indulge in her great passion for snorkelling. Back on dry land, later in the day, she also got to indulge in another passion. She had a Thai massage, despite claiming beforehand she wouldn’t due to the pain they put you under. Bending you in two and cracking every knuckle in her body.

Koh Lanta is yet another great island and place to stay in Thailand. We had a rather rustic bungalow for four nights, managed by the very friendly Ron. The bungalows were set around a small pool and were located in a prime beachfront location. We settled into a rhythm rather easily. Morning walks, barefoot, along the beach. Breakfast. Then a spot of relaxing in the sun catching up on our books, or the latest podcasts we had downloaded. Life was tough for a while.

Koh Lipe, the Thai Maldives

Things continued in the same vein on the island of Koh Lipe, a 3 hour boat ride from Koh Lanta. We spent a little more on our accommodation, staying at the excellent Ananya resort. For the 83rd bed of the whole trip we thought we deserved some comfort. Koh Lipe is a tiny island. Referred to as the “Maldives of Thailand”. I haven’t been to the Maldives, but if it is anything like Koh Lipe, I am up for a visit.

For such a small island it certainly packs in bags of charm, and many great places to eat and drink. As with all the west coast of Thailand, one of the simple pleasures is getting a sundowner on the beach.

Koh Lipe was our last stop on what has been an outstanding trip through Thailand. You have probably gathered that we enjoyed slowing down. Long walks on the beach. And drinks watching the sunset. Believe me, Thailand is hard place to leave, emotionally.

Onto Malaysia, country number 22

Physically leaving was easier. Passing through passport control, literally a hut on the beach, we boarded the boat to Langkawi Island in Malaysia. From the makeshift jetty on the beach, all our bags got crammed on a long tail boat. It looked as though it would sink under the weight and me wondering whether we would ever see them again when we arrived in Malaysia 

Leaving Laos and heading into Thailand

Luang Prabang had been great. A wonderful place to close our Laos travel chapter. And it was time to hit the road again. Return to a country we have previously visited, and both love. For the people, and the food. We were headed to Thailand. 

Despite several trips to Thailand, neither of us had been in the north. Today we would remedy that. Our flight from Luamg Prabang was to Chiang Mai, a city some 700 kilometres from the capital, Bangkok. We boarded our plane at Luang Prabang international airport and before we knew it we had wheels down in Thailand. 

Chiang Mai 

The airport in Chiang Mai is only a very short distance from the city and within minutes we were checking into the Pissamorn guest house, run by the highly talkative and multi lingual Pissamorn herself. In subsequent conversations over the next few days we learned of her history in running large guest houses, her husband getting his PhD in America, and how the maid has an afternoon job making burgers for her sons cafe. Never a dull moment with Pissamorn, not least when we checked in. Now in her 70s, she has downsized and runs a guest house of only four rooms. As she walked us upstairs and showed us our room, she very proudly told us we had the most comfortable bed in the house.

As she left, I bounced on it to check. Before I had even bounced back up again we had a breathless Pissamorn at the door. She had run up the steps to tell us she had made a mistake. The “most comfortable bed in the house” was a double. We had booked twin beds, being the only option when we booked. She had shown us the wrong room and we had to move. Thankfully, I hadn’t stripped off and got between the sheets.

Still smiling, we went to have a wander around the streets of Chiang Mai. It is immediately obvious why it remains a favourite destination for digital nomads. A low cost of living and some very modern co-working (and co-living) spaces, makes it an ideal proposition. I was itching to get my laptop out and earn a few dollars for beer money. In the years since I was last in the region the coffee shop scene has also exploded. There are so many coffee shops that wouldn’t look out of place in Melbourne. Needless to say, I had to try as many as I could.

Checking the watch before buying beer in Thailand

When I am not drinking coffee, I am usually drinking beer. Alcohol in Thailand is more expensive than neighbouring countries. It is often more expensive than a meal at dinner. “Family Mart” and “7 Eleven” remain a travellers best friend, being able to pick up beers much cheaper. As long as you are within certain hours. It was in Chiang Mai that we became aware of an arcane, and slightly bizarre rule concerning alcohol sales. Having visited Thailand quite a few times in the past I am sure I’ve noticed before, but I can’t honestly remember. 

It turns out that, by law, shops are not allowed to sell alcohol between the hours of 2pm and 5pm. Researching this strange law we discovered it was enacted to prevent civil servants going off for lunch and getting drunk. Impairing their performance in the afternoon. How draconian. I wonder if this resulted in people getting drunk before work? All it meant for us was that we kept forgetting and had shop assistants tapping their watches when we tried to buy our Singha beer outside of the allotted times. 

Chiang Mai and the temple of Don Suthep

No trip to Chiang Mai would be complete without a visit to the temple of Doi Suthep. So, one morning we set off walking, stopping for coffee along the way (of course). We knew we couldn’t walk all the way there, due to it being located on the top of a very high hill, quite a number of kilometres away. But, we figured after coffee we would flag down a red taxi van. Which you see dozens of plying the streets of Chiang Mai. These are shared taxis, people jumping in the back, and pressing a button when you want to get out. The cost being almost pennies. 

On this particular day we couldn’t find any going in our direction. So we walked. And walked. And walked. When the sun got too hot and our legs felt they wouldn’t walk any further we flagged down a tuk tuk to take us to where the red vans to the temple go from. 100 baht he said. 50 each. Sounding reasonable, in we jumped. He proceeded to drive us around the corner, to the end of the street, and dropped us off. Yes, we were that close to the vans. 

Night markets and the street food of Chiang Mai 

Around town there are many other temples, even if not as eye catching as Doi Suthep. You can spend a whole day just meandering through the streets and visiting the temples. The old city is in a perfect square, and one can imagine it being surrounded by fortified walls at one point. The entrance gates remain at the four points of the compass. At the South Gate we visited the night markets.

Food is always a massive highlight of a trip to Thailand. We just love so many Thai dishes it would be hard to get bored. And the night markets in Thailand are some of the best places to eat. Visiting at dinner time you are spoiled for choice and you can get some very tasty, very cheap, street food.

The small, local restaurants are also a great bet for dinner. As I always do, I tried the local specialty. In Chiang Mai this is Khao Soi. A yellow curry noodle soup dish. With chicken. Good lord, it was spicy. I couldn’t feel my lips at the end if it. And so delicious. Every mouthful was a taste sensation. Victoria had a minced chicken, basil and chilli dish. And if I thought mine was spicy at least I was still able to talk at the end of it. 

Our step count is always high when we visit cities, and Chiang Mai was no exception. Our poor legs and feet having suffered through another hot day we finally went and had the foot massage we had been promising ourselves for weeks. Only 150 Thai baht each, for a 30 minute massage. It was bliss. Highly enjoyable. And left me wondering why we had left it so long. 

Heading to the islands

With my feet still grateful for the massage, and my senses full of the amazing sights and smells of Thailand, it was time to slow life down a little. We were heading south, to spend a week on the island of Phuket. How much will it have changed since my first visit in 1999?

Laos, the missing jigsaw piece

I first visited Southeast Asia way back in 1994. I can scarcely believe this is now almost 30 years ago. How young and naive I must have been. Over the years, hopefully a little bit wiser, and definitely older, I have been back numerous times. 

And yet, there was always a piece of the jigsaw missing. A piece that I could never seem to find no matter how hard I tried. With this in mind, as we embarked on our big travel sabbatical, I knew that this was my opportunity to complete my Southeast Asian jigsaw. This time I was going to Laos. 

The Peoples Democratic Republic of Laos

The Peoples Democratic Republic of Laos is the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia. Bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. I had travelled fairly extensively through all these neighbouring countries and never once ventured into Laos. How remiss of me.

As our small propeller plane from Bangkok had wheels down in Vientiane there was a slight sense of relief and a smile on my face. I was finally in Laos and in the 49th country that I have travelled to in my wanderlust years. 

The capital, Vientiane, is described as sleepy. I would say this is an understatement. Walking from our hotel, that first morning, and into town I could count the number of travellers on one hand. Where is everyone, I thought. And why are the streets so quiet. Possibly the quietest capital city I have ever been to. I had expected a buzz. Busy cafes. Street side tour operators selling you bus and flight tickets, much like you see almost everywhere in Southeast Asia. 

Yet, there was none of this. We strolled to the river front, taking in the views of nearby Thailand across the river. Ambling along the river it felt as though the town was deserted. What were we going to do for the next couple of days?

Finding excellent craft beer in Vientiane

When you travel you find that life finds its rhythm. Wherever you are you adapt. And so it was in Vientiane. We slowed down and mirrored the pace of life. We did find an excellent brewery. Incongruously situated quite a long walk from the centre of town, on a main road, and amongst a strip of run down shops. Following the blue dot on Google Maps I did think there must be a mistake, but eventually, set back from the road, we found it. 

Core Beer is a very new, very modern building that houses a brewery. A brewery much like the excellent ones we are blessed with in Western Australia. A cavernous place, and yet we were the only customers. Ordering two, excellent pale ales, I mused at how the young man working there filled his day. Much like everyone else in Southeast Asia, it turned out. Glued to his mobile phone. The beer was excellent and priced accordingly. Much more expensive than our new local drink, BeerLao, which cost about 11,000 kip each. Which equates to approx 97 cents, or 54 pence.

Our days in Vientiane were brightened up by food. We afforded ourselves a well earned break from the monotony of rice every day. Whilst in Vientiane, our dinners were an excellent pizza, from an Italian chef, and on the second night a tasty Indian curry, that cost us pennies. Finding good food for dinner becomes a mission after you have experienced the hotel breakfasts in Asia. Some are a lot worse than others and the one at S2 Modern Hotel in Vientiane left a lot to be desired. 

Not tubing in Vang Vieng

Moving on from Vientiane we headed to Vang Vieng by minibus. On a trip that used to take many hours, the new Laos-China expressway reduces this considerably. Less than two hours after leaving the capital we had arrived and were trundling our bags to Jasmine hotel. When you are travelling on a budget, the Jasmine hotel is the sort of hotel you end up at. 

On the way to the hotel my spirits immediately lifted. Vang Vieng had the vibe that was missing in Vientiane. Lots of travellers wandering about. Cafes full of digital nomads on their laptops, and first time travellers updating their travel journals. It did appear that the demographic was about 30 years younger than me. If you can’t beat them, join them. Due to a scheduling issue, which I’ll touch on later, we were only here for two nights but would have happily extended. The Jasmine hotel was friendly, and if we look past the free breakfast, the balcony that provided us with amazing sunset views would have been enough to keep us in town.

Vang Vieng gained notoriety for the “tubing” activities that backpackers flocked here for. After a few deaths, and many near misses, the government clamped down heavily on this in 2012. Plying young people with alcohol and sending them down a fast flowing river on an inner tube suddenly seemed like a very bad idea. 

Diversification followed and now Vang Vieng is a hub for many activities such as hot air ballooning. Cycling. Rock climbing. Kayaking. And still a bit of tubing, of the more sober variety. The tourist numbers that dwindled after the 2012 tubing clampdown have started climbing again and once more there are new hotels being built to accommodate them. 

A Thai German serving schnitzels in Laos

There are some great food options in Vang Vieng and over the two nights we had a good Thai meal, and a schnitzel. A very good schnitzel I might add. From a Thai gentleman who had spent time in Germany and brought the schnitzel to Laos. His “restaurant” was simply his front garden, and his “kitchen” was a simple outside stove, but the schnitzel and potatoes he cooked up were delicious. If you do find yourself in Vang Vieng be sure to look up Viman, the Thai German. 

Luang Prabang

After Vang Vieng we were off to Luang Prabang. By bus. Or so we thought. When the young man on reception at the Jasmine told us the road was unsealed and it could take up to 7 hours to get there, we agreed with him that the train would be a much better option. 

The Chinese had recently finished building a train line from Laos to China and we were going to be one of the first to try it out. I had hoped to be on the bullet train that I saw advertised everywhere. Alas, we weren’t. However, the train was still very new, very busy, and fast. We were in Luang Prabang in under 2 hours. Met outside the oversize train station (as part of the train line the Chinese had built brand new, enormous train stations) by dozens of white minivans, to transport us all the 20 minutes into Luang Prabang town. 

Luang Prabang turned out to be one of my favourite places in Southeast Asia. Small. Friendly. And full of Buddhist temples. There is a peace and serenity to the town that holds a stillness. It helped that we were in a beautiful hotel. After the S2 in Vientiane and the Jasmine in Vang Vieng we slightly increased the travel budget got a whole lot more quality. 

Parasol Blanc hotel in Luang Prabang

Parasol Blanc was welcoming. And stylish. Set in large leafy grounds with a swimming pool and a breakfast area located in the middle of a UNESCO protected lotus pond. Talking of the breakfast, it was excellent. We even had a menu of options to choose from, all freshly prepared by the Indian chef who popped out each morning to have a chat. 

In Luang Prabang we strolled along the Mekong River, having a lazy lunch whilst watching the longtail boats sail past. We visited many of the beautiful Buddhist temples. One day we hired an electric scooter, my first time riding one, and visited the Kuang Si waterfalls, having a refreshing swim in the gorgeous pools. Kuang Si waterfalls are a must visit, it is such a beautiful area. On the way back to Luang Prabang, fretting slightly over the remaining battery life of the scooter (it turns out “range anxiety” is real), we stopped for lunch at a stunning location. Set amongst rice paddie fields, and very reminiscent of Bali, we had a simple and delicious lunch.

Importantly, after a lot of travel, we had some down time. Lazing around the hotel pool and having a cool dip. Being the only ones around the pool it felt like we were in our own private villa. We swam. Read. And I took the opportunity to catch up on the travel blog. 

Trekking with elephants at MandaLao Elephant Conservation Park

However, the highlight of our stay in Luang Prabang, and quite possibly of the whole trip through Southeast Asia was the day we spent at MandaLao Elephant Conservation park. Reading about this a few weeks ago we knew we had to visit. And when we booked, the only day that was available to us meant we would have to cut short an earlier part of the trip by a day. Hence the two days only in Vang Vieng.

To say it was worth the sacrifice would be an understatement. We had a full day trekking with two beautiful elephants. MandaLao work to provide elephant friendly interactions and their elephants, they have 10, have been rescued from terrible conditions. Either from logging factories or from the very outdated, and very harmful elephant camps that still allow the practice of riding the elephants.

As we now know, this causes irreversible damage to the spines of the elephants, not to mention the emotional trauma they are surely being put through. There is no riding at MandaLao. No chains. Just freedom to roam, and hundreds of bananas. The team work hard to educate the other elephant camps in Laos but elephants are so ingrained in the culture of this small Southeast Asian country that it will take a generation or two to change the mindest.

I was sad to leave Luang Prabang and sad to be leaving Laos. The country is truly beautiful. It feels a lot more rustic than its neighbours. And even though there are a lot of travellers, the numbers are a lot lower than other places we have visited. This is good. This helps retain a little of its “undiscovered” charm. Long may Laos remain this way.

Whilst tinged with sadness at leaving Laos, we were both very excited to get back to a country we have visited previously. The Land of Smiles. And fabulous food. Thailand would soon be country 21 of our world trip.

Cambodia’s main event

If Phnom Penh and Kampot were the entree, the entry into this fascinating country, then what was to come was surely the main course. Having travelled across countries, on buses, and terrible, unsealed roads, it was time to slow down and relax. In fact, Victoria demanded it, and it turned out to be just the tonic. One of her masterstrokes. I hadn’t realised how much my body and mind needed it.

Skipping Sihanoukville

And so it was that we found ourselves leaving Kampot on a minibus bound for the coastal city of Sihanoukville. Here we would jump straight on a boat across to the island of Koh Roh Sanloem. The smaller of two neighbouring  islands, this is described as the pearl of Cambodia, and we were soon to find out why. I had stayed in the town of Sihanoukville many years ago and it wasn’t somewhere I wanted to linger.

Arriving at the pier to board the boat, I am always amazed at how many people there are. We are not all going to get on this small boat, are we? If we do, there is no way so many bags will be squeezed on with us. Cue, 15 minutes later, we are all onboard, with our bags, and are chugging out to the choppy open sea. Seeking a sense of safety I searched for the life jackets. How curious that they all had different labels in the back, all by Western brands. How often do Converse, or G Star Raw make life jackets, I absent mindedly thought. I just hope we wouldn’t have to use them as I am not sure they would even float by themselves.

Beach life at Koh Rong Sanloem

It was with a sense of relief that we docked at the pier. A pier that appeared to be falling apart, and the same anxiety hit me again. Right at the moment a small boat arrived to transfer us to the resort. Why such a small boat when we have eight people and all their travel luggage waiting? Where was the second boat, I naively thought? Once again, we all piled into the one boat and had a short, and interesting ride to the beachside bungalow resort we would be spending the next few days at. I tried not to focus on the big split in the side of the boat that was letting in water.

Jumping out of the boat in bare feet, as we were in a couple of feet of water, we all shared the task of transporting our bags from the boat to the beach. And once back on dry land, with my feet on the sand, I immediately felt the anxiety drain away. Life just slowed down. Right there in that moment. Checking into our bungalow, set back from the beach, it was going to be “footwear optional” for the next few days. And flopping down on the very comfortable bed, number 73 of the trip, I knew I was in for some stellar sleep.

Lazy on Lazy Beach

Sara Resort was set right on Saracen Bay, with beach stretching left and right, waves lapping the shore. Many mornings we lay on a lounger, reading, and drifting off to the calming sounds of the ocean. For days the most strenuous thing we did was walk for 25 minutes, across the width of the island, to Lazy Beach. And it is called Lazy for a reason. A picture book, isolated beach, with rustic, thatched bungalows and a restaurant to provide travellers with food. Situated on the west of the island it didn’t take long to see why this spot is so popular at sunset.

Back in Saracen Bay our days passed in a blissful haze. A great breakfast every morning, courtesy of the resort. And dinners were eaten on the beach, the sand between our toes. Each evening there was a great BBQ, happy hour beers, and what island stay is complete without the obligatory “fire show”?

Extending our stay on Koh Rong Sanloem

We were due to stay four nights on the island before heading back to the mainland and flying north to Siem Reap. However, we couldn’t resist staying an extra night. And as luck would have it, it was fortunate that we did. On the day we were due to leave the seas were too rough for the boats from Sihanoukville. It seems that we were to stay stranded on our desert island and witness one last amazing sunset.

Leaving the same way we came, I thought the trip couldn’t be any more fraught than when we arrived. I was wrong. Once on the larger boat, the skipper had some kind of record to beat. He hit the accelerator and we bounced across the sea in a way that convinced me I wouldn’t get to see the end of the day. I was sure we would either capsize, or that the boat would split in two. As the water from the sea poured in, I closed my eyes and tried to meditate. Tried. Thankful that I had escaped the water. Then, I looked across to my left and saw Victoria. Who wasn’t quite so fortunate. I fear she may have been drier had she swam to Sihanoukville.

Getting off the boat, relieved, we were in a taxi and off to the airport. This travel day had only just started, and Victoria neeed to dry off. I am glad to report that the rest of the day was drama free, despite Victoria, now dry, looking a little scared when she saw the small propeller plane we would be flying in to Siem Reap.

Siem Reap

It had been some years since I had last been in Siem Reap. We were to spend four nights at Khmer House Boutique. Only opened in November 2022 it was already seeing a steady stream of travellers. And rightly so. Khmer House Boutique is a wonderful hotel and a great base for what was to be a fabulous stay in Siem Reap. A small pool to laze around. Great breakfast options. And very friendly staff.

Over the years Siem Reap has transformed itself into a wonderful holiday location. Somewhere that has something for every budget. There are luxury resorts and spas that you could lose yourself in for weeks. Mid range options, such as the one we were in that provide everything you need. And lots of budget options. It won’t surprise you to learn that Siem Reap has been firmly on the backpacker trails for decades. There is a reason that a street in Siem Reap has been renamed “Pub Street”. A great place through the day for 75 cent (47p) beers. Less appealing at night when the volume of the music gets cranked up.

Finding the perfect brew in Siem Reap

Regular readers will know my love of coffee. And that southeast asia has some of the best coffee in the world. Siem Reap has heaps of very good coffee shops and I may have found the best in The Little Red Fox Espresso. Located in the Kandal district of Siem Reap, Aussie owned, and Cambodian run, The Little Red Fox pours excellent coffee. Aside from great coffee, the food in Siem Reap is as good as you will find anywhere. One of our favourite restaurants was Tevy’s Place. 

We met the owner, Tevy, and heard her story. She lost her father and three siblings in the Khmer Rouge atrocities of the 1970s. She now supports her mother, and employs local woman in her little Cambodian restaurant. Her signature dish is the national dish of fish amok. Served in the traditional way, in a banana leaf, we both decided this was one of our best dishes of the travels.

Amazing Angkor Wat

It would be remiss of me to write about Siem Reap and not mention Angkor Wat. Although, what can be said that hasn’t already been? One of the wonders of the world. Awe inspiring. The largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat temple complex covers some serious ground. Guide book advice suggests that you spend a few days if you want to see all of it.  It is mighty impressive.

Built by the Khmer Empire between the 9th and the 15th centuries, it is now a UNESCO world heritage site only some 7kms from the town of Siem Reap. Pause, and take it all in.  We hired a tuk tuk for the day and our driver took us around four of the most popular temples. In one of them we were lucky enough to receive a blessing from one of the monks.

Angkor, What?

A less grand, and much newer Angkor Wat is found at Angkor Wat Putt. A mini golf located some 30 minutes out of town. We took a tuk tuk and had a very enjoyable round of golf in the later afternoon heat. The owner advertises that there is a free beer for every hole in one. And would you believe, I sank the little white ball on my first attempt at hole 8. Over on Instagram there was speculation about who won. We both won, in what was a very enjoyable afternoon.

Hole in one. Free beer. And, who wo? What does this matter? We had bigger and better things to consider. Country number 21 was on the horizon. The missing piece in my “South East Asia” jigsaw for many years. Exciting time ahead.

First stop, Phnom Penh 

Our time in Vietnam came to an end. A time that we thoroughly enjoyed. Had we, meaning me, been more on the ball when it came to visa requirements we may have stayed even longer. Whilst back in Tokyo we had our flights booked, and only then did I do a Google search to determine whether we needed a visa to travel to Vietnam.

We did. And they took up to eight days to process. We were flying in two days. Can you see our problem? Thankfully, we are travelling with both our passports and I frantically searched again, but this time for the entry requirements for those with a British passport. And breathed a huge sigh of relief. We could enter visa free, with the caveat that we could only stay in the country for 15 days.

Crossing the border at Moc Bai

Our 15 days at an end it was time to move on to Cambodia. And yes, I had planned early and we had the right visa, allowing us to cross the Vietnam Cambodia border at the Moc Bai international checkpoint. The bus was scheduled to take seven hours, and nine hours later we rolled into Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh. We were very hungry, travelling across the border with no local currency. That said, the food looked anything but appealing. On close inspection I could not even work out what it was. Not that Vik was hungry after her first real “asian” toilet experience. Her face was a picture.

Killing Fields

Cambodia has a lot of history. Over thousands of years. But our focus in Phnom Penh was on tragic events that happened a lot more recently. In the 1970s in fact. Knowing that atrocities against the Cambodian people were happening as I was enjoying my childhood sends shivers down my spine. Between 1976 and 1979 the Cambodian dictator, Pol Pot, oversaw the killing of up to 2 million of his own people. His Khmer Rouge government targeted anyone that they felt did not fit into the classless society they wanted. And many were driven to the “Killing Fields”, south of the capital to be executed.

Now known of the Choeung Ek Genocide Centre, the Killing Fields is a peaceful memorial to those that lost their lives. I feel that these monuments are essential to educate people, including the Cambodians, of what can happen in a society, and how we can try and avoid it repeating. A stupa has been built that now houses the skulls and bones that were taken out of the mass graves they had perished in, An excellent audio guide is included in your admission fee and I couldn’t help but feel emotionally drained listening to reports of what happened in those terrible years.

Tuol Sleng prison genocide centre 

Back in the capital, we next visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.A former school, the Khmer Rouge turned this into a prison where people were indiscriminately tortured and murdered. Of the estimated 20,000 people imprisoned here, only seven escaped death. Of those murdered, there were two Australians, two Americans and a Briton. Walking the corridors of this former school, and seeing the photographs on the walls, it was hard to reconcile the two.

Riverside in Phnom Penh

After the history lesson, we needed some fresh air and so we headed to the boardwalk that runs alongside the Sisowath river. Fresh air is never really a thing in SouthEast Asia, and it wasn’t here. It was worth braving the fumes of all the traffic to be outside, processing what we had seen and learned about that morning. We strolled along, past all the street food vendors, and sat on the wall with a $1AUD beer.

Drinking in Cambodia

Most of the beers we had were a dollar. Beer had become our new cost of living indicator and in SouthEast Asia you can drink on the cheap. In fact, you find yourself becoming ruthless. Somebody asks for $1.50AUD for a beer? You walk away, shocked at “how expensive” it is. Yes, I know, my privilege kicking in. You need to take a moment to put everything into perspective. You are getting a good deal, even at $1.50 a beer. Take a breath, pay the money, and everybody smiles.

The confusing thing about money in Cambodia

The money still takes some getting used to. In Vietnam we had the Dong. And now, the Riel. And whilst the beer may have only cost $1.00, in Cambodian Riel this is 3,000R. When someone quotes you 6,000R for two beers it takes some working out as to how much these cost in your “home” currency. 

Just to make matters slightly more confusing, Cambodian ATMs dispense US dollars. Which you can use in most places. In fact, most menus display the US dollar price only. But when you pay, you get your change in Riel. Your wallet will bulge with both US dollars and Cambodian Riel. Are you keeping up? I was confused for most of our stay, trying to convert from US dollars, to local currency, then back to Aussie dollars to see what we were “really” paying.

Street vendors in Cambodia sizing me up

One thing is certain, what you are “really paying” is not a lot, relative to home. And wandering around the many markets in Cambodia there are some real bargains to be had. If shopping is your thing. Always remembering that the first price quoted in the market is double what your counter haggle should be. A t shirt is quoted as 12,000 riel, then go in with an offer of 6,000, still only a couple of dollars. I wasn;t looking for anything but if I had I could be comforted(?) that they had my size. Walking through the narrow market stalls one lady trader stroked my stomach and said “don’t worry, we have your size. We have King Kong size.” I kid you not.

Kampot

Leaving Phnom Penh, still ruminating on the “King Kong” comment, we headed south, to the little town of Kampot. I was last in Kampot 13 years ago so I was looking forward to seeing how it had changed. My memories were of a small, sleepy town that was perfect for kicking back with a good book for a few days. On the minibus down there we were sat next to a couple of missionaries from the US who had lived in Cambodia for the last 30 years. When they got off in Kampot, they told us, “Welcome to the most beautiful place in Cambodia.”

Our impressions after spending three days in Kampot were that it needs a lot of loving and a lick of paint. The old French shop buildings could look so beautiful, as evidenced by the town of Hoi An, in Vietnam. Instead, there were piles of trash, horrible tall concrete hotels, and a river pathway that had been ripped up. Granted, work was ongoing to improve the path and this will look better once complete. Right now, the town is a bit of a mess, and seems to be sliding down the path taken by Sihanoukville, a town by the coast. Lots of older, white males, sat in bars with very young looking Cambodian women. In a country known for sex tourism it is not too much of a stretch to work out what the men were in Cambodia for. It gets a little depressing.

The delicious dishes of Southeast Asia

Putting the depressing thoughts behind us it was time for dinner. Eating in Southeast Asia is a real highlight. The aromas, the flavours, and the spices really do capture the attention and tickle the taste buds. Each country has its own speciality and in Cambodia this is fish amok. A dish I had at the excellent Epic Arts Cafe, a place that runs to support disadvantaged locals. Some of the staff are deaf and they bring you a menu and a pen so you can select your choices.

The fish amok I chose was delicious. Lemongrass notes wafting over the fish. A subtle curry sauce brings the whole dish together. We love to sample new dishes from the different countries and it is also good when you just feel like a change, as there is good western food to be had in each town and city. I have a soft spot for pizza and had a great wood fired one in Kampot, cooked up by an Italian chef.

Pepper and the Plantation

Talking of food, let’s turn to pepper. Kampot is famous for its black pepper, and back in the day, it is said that no self respecting Parisian restaurant would be seen without some Kampot pepper on the table. Whilst we were there we jumped in a tuk tuk for a full day of the countryside. Maybe the oddest tour we have been on, but that is another story.

Bouncing along the unsealed roads outside of Kampot, our tuk tuk drove us to La Plantation. A fabulous pepper plantation that is doing a lot of social good in Cambodia. Not only did we get a free, and very informative tour of the pepper plantation, learning how pepper is grown (who knew?), we also had a full pepper tasting. Set up in 2013 by a French-Belgian couple, La Plantation is now recognised globally and is certified organic. They also support the education of young children, recognising that education is the only route out of poverty for many of these kids. A wonderful place that I would highly recommend that you visit if you are in the area.

A new drinking game

Back in Kampot it was time for a beer. And we found some cans of Cambodia beer for 80 cents, which for those of you in the UK is about 45p. And the best bit was that a traveller at the next table asked us if we “knew about the ring pulls”. Our blank faces told her we didn’t and she went on to explain that under each ring pull, these were the old fashioned type that come away from the can, there is something printed, that means either nothing, or another cheap beer, when redeemed at a local shop.

This became our new favourite game. Ripping off the tops of Cambodia beer cans and seeing if we had “won”. And win we did, a lot. In fact, more than we ever redeemed. When we did redeem them we found out that our new beers were costing 18 cents, which is about 10p.

Making plans to slow down in Cambodia

Happy days indeed. It was over one of these beers that we made our onward plan. Deciding to slow down a little we booked four (which turned into 5) nights at a beach resort on the island of Koh Rong Sanloem. I am really hoping we can redeem a few more of those ring pulls!