Swan Valley – WA’s oldest wine region

As the heat increased, sweat pooling around my eyes,  I wondered how much longer this would go on for. How long I could go on for. It was getting hard to breathe. It felt as though we had been in here for hours. Close your eyes, I told myself. Breathe slowly. 

“Smell the cedar?”, asked Victoria? “How good is this? This is what we paid for.”

Paid for? Yes, indeed, we had paid for this experience. Having our own sauna, small and, rather aptly, wine barrel shaped, outside the room we were staying in was definitely a benefit.

Swan Valley Retreat

The Swan Valley Retreat is nestled in the Henley Brook area of the valley, some 25 minutes drive from the city of Perth. Having just two rooms makes Swan Valley Retreat an exclusive staycation. One that we had to wait 5 months for, due to the demand of the people of Western Australia holidaying at home. In truth, we don’t have that many options. Holiday here this year remains as relevant as it was over a year ago, when the pandemic hit. And so it was, we found ourselves checking in for a couple of nights in May.

The retreat’s only two rooms are quaintly named Cabernet and Merlot. Separated by a day spa, each room has a large outdoor seating area, perfect for that first, and second coffee of the morning. There is a private spa bath (jacuzzi) for lazy afternoons. On arrival we were presented with a fabulous looking platter of meats, cheeses, and fruit, together with an icy bottle of bubbles. A perfect way to start our relaxing weekend.

Swan Valley Wine Region

Thankfully for those of us based in WA, we have world class venues and destinations literally on our doorstep. And the Swan Valley region is one such location. The home of WA’s oldest vines, and the second oldest wine region in Australia, Swan Valley has been growing grapes since 1829. The warm Mediterranean climate is perfect for white wines such as verdelho and chenin blanc, whilst the reds of shiraz, grenache, and petit verdot are as good as you will taste.

There are some great food options to go with your wine. Sittella winery is one such option. It has a restaurant overlooking their vines and we indulged in a very good lunch which included dishes of lamb rack and grilled barramundi. We complemented the meal with Sittella’s wine, starting with a glass of the excellent bubbles, the sparkling chenin blanc, followed by an rather tasty cabernet sauvignon.

High tea in Swan Valley

Sunday speaks more to high tea, and where better than Cottage Tea Rooms, advertising “the best scones in the valley”. And who am I to argue? Granted, I do spend a lot of time searching for the best high teas in Australia. And the little warm delights served up were delicious. What I would give for places in Australia to provide authentic clotted cream, yet this is a minor criticism.

Something nobody can criticise about the Swan Valley is the sheer number of quality eating and drinking options. Mandoon Estate offers not only a cellar door for tasting, a fine dining restaurant, a brewery, and an outdoor “Garden Bar”, but also, its very own hotel, “The Colony”. You could happily spend a weekend at Mandoon Estate without ever leaving the vast grounds.

Breweries seem to have proliferated in recent years in WA, and Swan Valley is no exception. In addition to the one at Mandoon Estate, there is also Mash Brewery, Elmar’s, Henley Brook, Duckstein, and the newest member, Bailey’s Brewery which sports the tagline, “It is simple really”. And it is. With them all offering quality brews and food, all you need to do is decide which to visit. And my advice would be to book ahead. Despite many options, and them all being quite large, they book out very quickly.

Reflecting on a great staycation

Suitably fed, we retired back to our accommodation at Swan Valley retreat. With a bottle of that excellent Sittella sparkling chenin blanc we watched the last of the day’s light turn to a carpet of stars from the private outdoor spa that comes with the room. All we had to do was sit back and work out the plan for tomorrow. Where would we have lunch after starting the morning in the sauna. Would we opt for hop or vine? In the Swan Valley you truly are spoilt for choice. No sweat.