We make it to Greece, eventually

Leaving Dubrovnik

The taxi from Dubrovnik old town to the airport was on time. A good start to a long travel day. Thirty minutes and we were at the airport. A little early for check in so I had a burek and coffee for breakfast. The burek was traditionally a Yugoslavian breakfast and you can still buy them all over Croatia. I had taken a particular liking to the cheese version. 

Going to Greece

We were here for a flight to Crete. An island in Greece that I had not been to previously. As with most trips to the Greek islands via plane we were to transit through Athens airport. Easy enough, I thought, as this is a transfer we have done often, on previous trips.

Just like clockwork, our flight from Dubrovnik to Athens left on time, having us in Athens early enough for me to stop worrying that our bags might not make the transfer. Athens airport feels like familiar ground now, having transited through so many times. I know where the gyros is. And where the beer is. Just as importantly, I know where the departure gates are

And we got to gate 28 slightly early. All looked good. This was until we crept closer to our departure time. And then nothing. No announcements. No movement at the gate. Just an ominous silence. 

The silence was eventually broken, with an announcement that we would not be departing at the specified time and that we would get “further news” in a couple of hours. What? Did we hear that right? I wandered to the counter and enquired. 

An anxious wait

Yes we heard right. Due to the bad weather conditions on the island of Crete, our flight was delayed and we would have more news later. When the news came, it was worse. Heraklion airport on Crete was currently closed. It had flooded and they had staff frantically trying to clear it. Until they did, there would be no flights in or out of the island. 

My thoughts immediately turned to the start of this long trip overseas. Back to Hamilton Island and our eventual flight cancellation. A bit of drama ensured that day and I did not want a repeat. It was an anxious wait. We did the best thing we could. Took ourselves off for a cold beer.

Later in the day, I was killing time by reading a couple of chapters of my book. Not really paying attention to the muffled announcement. The subsequent round of applause brought me back into the present. I looked at Mrs C expectantly. 

“We are flying to Crete and boarding immediately,” she said. 

A wave of relief flooded over me as we boarded and took our seats, albeit a few hours later than planned. We would be going to Crete today. With the long delay I very much doubted our pre-booked transfer from the airport to the hotel would still be waiting. 

Chaotic Crete

Heraklion airport on Crete was chaotic. Pure bedlam. Greek airports are not the best. Often old and lacking the right infrastructure for the number of visitors they get. The baggage reclaim hall was a mass of people. A mass. People everywhere. We couldn’t work out where the luggage carousels were such were the numbers of people crammed in. 

I had a creeping sense this was not to be our day. When we worked out where our bags should arrive I heard some Americans nearby say that they had already received a text from the airline. Their bags would not be joining them today. Off they traipsed to the lost luggage desk. Joining a very long, and lengthening queue. Oh great, I ruminated, that’s bound to be us, too. 

Except it wasn’t. And things kept going our way. Collecting our bags and forcing our way through the crowds to leave the airport I kept scanning all the handwritten signs for our names. Nothing. We exited on to the street. In pools of water and streets now turning to a morass of mud. The storm had really hit. Our bags quickly became wet, and were getting caked in mud. My spirits lifted when I caught sight of my name. Yes! Our driver was still here and waiting. I resolved to break my rule of not tipping. He definitely deserved a couple of quid. 

Now time to embrace the Greek lifestyle

So it was, late, dark, and still very wet, we made it to our hotel. We had decided to slow down a little and had booked a week in the town of Agios Nikolaos. A week we were really looking forward to. How much gyros could I eat in a week? And is there such a thing as too much lamb kleftico?

Greece really is food heaven

I only had a couple of gyros, but the one above might rank as the best I have ever had. Ever. It was huge. Stuffed with delicious meat. And was under 4 euros. If you find yourself in Agios Nikolaos, you must eat at Karnagio Pita. Unless you are a vegetarian. Hmm. Then I would recommend you stay well clear. We came back later in the week and had the gyros plate. Oh. My. Word.

Local tavernas

If anything makes a Greece holiday authentic for us, it is the unassuming, simple, Greek taverna. And in Agios Nikolaos we were spoiled for choice. We were on the island quite late in the season and it was obvious that tourist numbers were down. Thankfully, we had enough local restaurants to work through our Greek “wish list”. We had lots of halloumi. And when I could convince Victoria that we needed a change, saganaki was next up.

Two of the tavernas we chose did lamb kleftiko, another absolute favourite. A local tradition that we enjoyed on Crete, and did not see again whilst island hopping in Greece, is the bringing out of a free dessert, and a small bottle of raki to share. The Greeks are very partial to raki, and for those of you not familiar with it, just imagine drinking pure alcohol. This is how it feels. But, as the waiter drinks with you, you really feel a need to imbibe. Yamas!

Time to move on

As our first week in Greece drew to a close, the waistline on my jeans felt noticeably tighter. We are managing to do a lot of walking still, but Greek food is not conducive to moderation. At least, not for me. So, I am a few pounds heavier, and happy for it. We are leaving Crete by boat today, headed to Santorini. I have already been researching where I can get my next lamb kleftiko. And if need be, a new pair of pants.