We push on, in to Portugal

Up first, Lisbon

Reflecting on our Spanish adventure, it was a great few weeks. However, we needed to keep moving. Nomadic lifestyles don’t lend well to staying too long in one place. 

And so, after a super stay in Seville, we were headed to country number nine of our travels. And, in big travel news, we were taking an aeroplane for the first time since leaving the UK. We would still be in the Schengen region, as for all our trip so far in mainland Europe, there will be no customs procedures to navigate. Just disembark, grab your bags, and wander off to explore. I had frequently learned of a quirk of the Schengen region. The 90/180 day rule, but more on that in a later blog.

The ease of travelling by rail and bus

There is a great ease, and pleasure in just rocking up to a train or bus station minutes before your departure, stowing your bag, and taking your seat. I wasn’t looking forward to the rigmarole of the airport. The early arrival for bag drop. The hassle of security. Do we still take shoes off? What about belts? Oh, I can leave my electronics in the bag? When did this change? And the interminable waiting around to board. 

Seville airport at 6am was very civilised. A smooth and quick check in. A breeze through security. And an on time departure. Some one hour later, confusingly landing at the same time we took off, we had wheels down in Lisbon, Portugal. On the same time zone as the UK we had to turn our clocks back an hour. 

Lisbon

With an estimated population of just over half a million, Lisbon is the largest city, and the capital of Portugal. Situated by the Tagus river, in the south of the country, it has a storied history. One of the oldest cities in the world, Lisbon is also the second oldest European capital. Athens holds first place.

We spent four nights exploring all of what Lisbon has to offer. Which is a lot. The centre naturally draws you down to the waterfront. The huge Praço do Comércio is entered through Arco da Rua Augusta. A triumphal archway leading you into the large city square on the edge of the water. From here you can glance right and see the “25th April” bridge, mirroring the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco, even down to the exact same colour of paint it is covered in.

The famous tram 28

Heading back into the main town we jumped on the, now famous, tram 28. Still a working tram, taking locals to work and back, it has turned into one of the “must do” items on every Lisbon travellers list. The tram rumbles up through Alfama, trundling up the surprisingly hilly Lisbon, before descending back through town, and up to the neighbourhood of Barrio Alto. It is easy to see why tourists jump on the 28 and sit there, taking in much of Lisbon. 

We spent a day on the waterfront, exploring sights such as the Belem tower, the Monument to Discovery, and the Jeronimos Monastery. All before heading back to the very, very popular Time Out market. 

Marketing the markets

Much like a lot of similar markets we have seen in Europe, this is another that has been refurbished with all eyes on the tourist Euro. Locals have been priced out of these markets, sadly, as prices for beer, wine, and food are hiked well above what you expect to pay elsewhere. The market is impressive, but I left with a feeling of sadness that most people were there because they thought they “had” to visit as they had read it in a guidebook. I may sound cynical, but, this is just me, and how I feel.

Dinner off the beaten track

I prefer to eat in places where the locals eat, and this is where we found ourselves, not too far from the hotel we were staying in. Up a hill, into a local neighbourhood, we found 21 Gallas craft beer pub. A rotating tap list of 10 beers allowed for plenty of choice as we had a couple of pre-dinner drinks.

Dinner itself was a little further up the hill, in a little pizza place we found. Located in a small square, next to a bar hosting a music night, we sat and had a fabulous pizza. I also spotted a dish going out that looked like halloumi. After enquiring what it was, we ordered a portion. Brazillian cheese, grilled. Delicious.

Beaches in Lisbon

What you may not know about Lisbon is that despite being a large city, there are some excellent beaches on its doorstep. Deciding we needed some downtime after traipsing the length and breadth of Lisbon, we gave ourselves a “beach day”, heading out to Carcavelos beach. Some 30 minutes by train from Lisbon, this is a very popular beach with the locals. We had a glorious day, our towels, and our books. With food and drink options nearby we spent a very enjoyable day soaking up the sun.

In all, we had some fabulous food in Lisbon. From the octopus stew in a cataplano on the first night, to the curry that we traditionally have, everywhere we go in the world. We have had some very good ones, and Victoria declared this one as the best she has ever had. Quite a bold statement from such a curry lover.

Sintra

Day four in Lisbon saw us back at the train station, this time Rossio, as we headed out to Sintra. Classified a UNESCO World Heritage site, Sintra has to be seen to be believed. Fairytale castles dot the hills surrounding the small town. Lord Byron described it as “glorious Eden”, being just one of many visitors over the centuries to be taken in by Sintra’s charms.

Archaeological finds date Sintra back to the 5th millennium BC, but the devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755 resulted in much of Sintra being destroyed, and subsequently rebuilt. The earthquake is something that I knew nothing of and learned that it destroyed almost the whole of Lisbon. There are estimates of 30,000 to 40,000 lives lost.

Sintra bounced back and in modern times is a place that draws in thousands of tourists a year, drawn to the palaces and castles that adorn many a postcard. It is a place I would highly recommend that you spend a few hours exploring.

And we head to Porto

Our exploring of Lisbon was done and we jumped on the metro to Gare Oriente, for our 9.30am bus to Porto, in the north of the country. Porto has been on my travel wish list for some time and I was very happy, boarding the bus, knowing that within 3 hours I would be there. Porto would bring up bed number 34 since we left home in Perth.

Who knew bed 34 would be so difficult to get to? A cursory glance on Google maps showed us where our apartment was. From the metro station, it looked like a short walk. What Google does not show you is that the “short walk” was up some very steep hills. Why did nobody warn us how hilly Porto is? Imagine how happy I was when we finally made it, only to discover our apartment was up a flight of stairs! Good grief, we were a hot and sweaty mess as we met Pedro at the apartment to check in. 

Time to explore

Bags dropped off, and cooled down a little, it was time to explore Porto. I could pretend that there were many sights I wanted to see, in no particular order, but who was I kidding? I was here for the port, and the many port cellars that proliferate around the Douro river. And it wasn’t long before I sat down, with my first tasting.

Porto, sitting on the Douro river, is known as the city of bridges, and a stroll along the water allows you to see why. The most impressive, in my opinion, is the Dom Luís I Bridge, designed by Teophile Seyrig, a former partner of Gustave Eiffel, of whom we all know. Should you be a bridge fanatic, I aren’t, you can do a river cruise, taking in all six of them.

What exactly is a Franceshina?

I was on the hunt for something else. Lunchtime was approaching and only the day before had I read of Porto’s most famous dish. A Franceshina. What exactly is a Franceshina? Well, I have now had one and still am not totally sure. It was invented by a Portuguese by the name of Daniel Silva, whilst he was living in France. Supposedly, inspired by the croque monsieur. Hmm. It is a sandwich of white loaf bread, beef, ham, sausage and cheese. It is topped off with an egg, and then it is all drenched, literally, in a strange sauce, of which it seems no one is really sure what it is. 

Most menus describe it as a beer sauce, and it is supposedly made up of beer and tomatoes as a base. Where it gets interesting for me is that each chef maintains the “secret” of their sauce, and so, it is unique from place to place. Now I knew of this famous sandwich, I saw it everywhere, I just had to try it. And the verdict? Tasty. It filled me. But that sauce? I am just not sure I would want it every day.

Pastel de Nata

What we did have every day in Portugal, and sometimes twice, were the pastel de natas. Known outside Portugal as Portuguese tarts, these mini egg custards are addictive. Even more so when they are just out of the oven. Bite size pieces of heaven. I could probably fit a whole one in my mouth, but they are best savoured, with many mini bites.

Very popular in Porto is also the “Portuguese Experience”. I had seen these in Lisbon and just had to try one. A cod fishcake, made with local cheese, and a cold white port. Oh yes, I could get used to these. If only they weren’t so expensive.

With all this food it is a good job that we are keeping up with our exercise. Exploring cities is hard work, and we often go to bed having completed more than double the recommended step count. Walking around Porto gives you the added exercise of climbing hills, getting the heart rate pumping, and making that first glass of wine taste even better.

Where to after Porto?

Porto was to be our last stop in Portugal. We had somewhere to be that had been high on the “priority list” of places to visit whilst we were away. However, we couldn’t get there directly from Porto so we will be having a mini break, back in the country we had previously just left. The mandatory masks may provide a clue. Such is the travel life, always adapting.

Ciao, and hasta luego.