Explore with Fran

It is a matter of pronunciation

When you tell people you are heading back to Phuket, the responses you get back can be hilarious.

“Oh, is it nice? I have never been to fuck-et”.

Or, someone else will respond, “enjoy. we love poo-ket”.

I am not saying I have the definitive answer to how it should be pronounced, but it has always been pu-ket, to me.

The Changing Face of Phuket

What is generally agreed is that the island in the south of Thailand is a great place to visit. So great in fact that over the last few years it has become a magnet for Russian tourists. Coming in huge numbers, at times you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Russia. All along the coast, the Russian language on restaurant signage is as ubiquitous as Thai.

And they all appear to have the same “uniform”, which is a white hoody, sold at every beach stall and shop on the island. I am told that since Russia invaded the Ukraine, Russians have been flooding into Phuket and snapping up villas. Again, this is very evident by all the real estate signage in Russian.

It is easy to see the appeal. A small island. Great beaches. And a very low cost of living. We last spent a week in Phuket as part of our 2022/23 world travels, and now we were heading back, staying further south in the resort of Kata.

Never Listening to me Again

Even though it only felt like a few weeks since our last trip, to Denmark in Australia’s Great South West, the morning found us jumping in our pre-booked Uber at 4.30am, and we were at Perth airport just 20 minutes later. And this being Perth, really just a big town, the airport was very quiet. Perth international airport has scant options for food and drink so it was a croissant and coffee that got my engines started. 

When we originally booked this trip, I was my frugal self. Ever the Yorkshireman. Looking for the cheapest fare. This turned out to be with AirAsia. This turned out to be a mistake. In the months and weeks leading up to the flight, AirAsia kept rescheduling our flight. I nonchalantly flicked their last email across to Victoria, with a cursory, “just an FYI, no action needed”.

Imagine my surprise when she immediately came back with, “how come we now have 15 hours in Singapore airport and don’t fly to Phuket until the day after?”.

She had me there. I hadn’t really paid any attention to the email from AirAsia. They do say that relationships succeed when they build on each others strengths. Attention to detail is not one of mine.

Complaining that “she would never listen to me again“, Victoria found us an alternative flight and so it was that Singapore Airlines had us away from Perth in good time for our four and half hour flight to Singapore. On the same timezone as Perth we had wheels down in Singapore at around 11.30am.

Changing in Changi

Being slightly concerned that our bags might not have time to meet the connecting flight we visibly slumped when scanning the departures board at Changi airport. Our connecting flight to Phuket was delayed by almost two hours. Our bags would have plenty of time to make the flight and we now wouldn’t land in Phuket, Thailand until 3.30pm, accounting for the loss of one hour time difference. 

Thankfully, we were in a great place to be inconvenienced. Regularly voted the best airport in the world, if you are going to be delayed anywhere, Changi is as good a place as any. Huge, well organised, and blissfully air conditioned, Changi airport has such amenities as sleep pods, a hotel, gardens to explore, and even a cinema. We just needed food.

If you have been to Singapore you will know how expensive it is. Now, if you have been to an airport, you will know how expensive they are. What a perfect storm. An airport in Singapore. After an eye wateringly expensive, and very tasty, lunch and obligatory Tiger beer, served by robots, we were soon in the air. 

Grabbing a ride in Phuket

Arriving at airports in South East Asia is always a little manic. Once you clear customs, which was a lot more hassle in Thailand than it is in Bali, you are out into the throngs of waiting taxi drivers. All seemingly shouting at once, and with the unbearable heat and distinctive smells of Asia suddenly hitting you, it is very easy to get disoriented. I try to minimise this by being as organised as possible for our arrival.

Despite thinking I had sorted everything out in advance, I always seem to have trouble using the esim on the phone when we land somewhere new. And so it was in Thailand. I couldn’t connect to the network and whilst I could order my Grab (Asian Uber) whilst on the airport wifi, when we went out to meet the car I lost the connection. 

And, in what is common when landing at a foreign airport, we have a frantic search for the Grab pick up point. When we finally found it I saw that my phone had dropped off the wifi. With no wifi connection to confirm through the Grab app which car and driver I was looking for, I was thankful that I had the foresight to take a screen shot of my booking. Experience had taught me that little trick. 

Kata Bound

Sat in the comfort of our lounge at home, looking at the little map of Phuket, things never look that far away. After an hour and a half in Thai traffic I was left wondering why we didn’t pick a hotel nearer the airport.  It had been a long travel day and I needed a cold Singha beer.

Even before checking into the hotel I had almost made a big mistake. Almost paying for the Grab ride twice. Still thinking of our extensive use of the app on our travels through South East Asia I thought the app settings still defaulted to “cash”. In places like Cambodia and Vietnam, drivers wouldn’t pick you up if you wanted to pay by card through the app. Cash remains king. 

On arrival at the hotel in Kata beach I was trying to pass over the money for the ride, 1000 baht ($47) to the driver. And in fairness, he looked shocked. I didn’t know why and with me not speaking Thai, and him not speaking English it took me a while to work out that I had already paid. By the bank card linked to my Grab app. Props for his honesty. 

Aurico Kata Resort

For once we arrived at the hotel in daylight. We seem to have acquired this habit over the years of arriving to our hotels just as we should be going to bed. We usually check in, get shown our room, and promptly go to bed. Not so today. We arrived at the Aurico Kata Resort in good time and whilst having a look around the hotel Vik brought some very good news to my attention. At the pool bar, there was a daily happy hour(s) between 5pm and 7pm. And, as luck would have it, we were coming up to 5pm.

We relaxed with a couple of happy hour Singha beers (80 baht each / $3.70) around the pool, taking a moment to breathe at the end of a day that started with the alarm waking us at 4am. The pool area was huge, with a lot of sun loungers and swim up pool bar that we would find ourselves at in the coming days. Our room was by the pool with direct access from our deck.

I had a feeling this was going to be a very good and relaxing week.

Ocean views in Denmark (WA)

Waking to views of the ocean. Under a bright blue sky, and sandwiched between the verdant green trees that flourish in this part of the world. Watching the swell crash against the beach, roll out, and return. In the same way it has done for thousands of years. Nowhere to be. Nothing to do. Other than just being the ocean. Day after day. There is something quite meditative about it. A simplicity.

And this simplicity will be how we spend our weekend in Denmark. A drive south of Perth of just under five hours, we were spending three nights in a Heyscape tiny cabin, This one named “Sand”. One of three cabins in a large paddock, some 12 kms out of Denmark.

Tiny Cabins of Western Australia

We have had a few weekends across Western Australia in these tiny cabins, and this was our first in Denmark, a place we last visited in 2022. Just last year, on our European holiday, I had my first visit to the Scandinavian Denmark. Not to be confused with a country some 13,000 kms away, the local version was named in 1826, after Alexander Denmark of the British Royal Navy.

Whilst the very impressive coastline will not have changed much since those naval days, our stay is sure to be very different to the last time we were here, passing through on a holiday exploring the Great Southern. You may remember the disaster we had with our hire car on the way south of Perth, and how our good friend rescued our holiday.

This visit was to be very different. And the first time (I think) that Denmark (WA) has made an appearance on the blog. <<checks the blog archives>>.

Road Tripping the Great Southern

With the hire car fully stocked with all we needed for three nights, minus the wine we were sure to buy locally at the excellent cellar doors, we were off and heading south. The road south, the Albany Highway, was quiet, and we made good time, rolling in to Denmark just after our 4 o’clock check in time.

Cracking open a cold beer, sitting out on the deck of the cabin, I noticed how warm it felt. Being autumn, and about as south as you could get, we were hoping for some cooler weather. It is rare that we get to wear anything other than t-shirts and shorts in Perth. There appears to be two seasons. Summer. And waiting for summer. 

Apart from loving the seclusion. And the simplicity of a tiny cabin. There is one massive draw for us on these weekends. When the sun sets, and the stars come out. Wow. No words. The night sky is all the entertainment we need. We just sit and stare, having a competition on who can spot the most shooting stars. With our homemade meat and cheese board finished, I drained the last of my whisky nightcap, and we called it a night.

Mornings in Denmark

Morning started as they often do on these weekends. Coffee on the deck taking in the natural surroundings. The first whiff of eucalyptus. Heaven. That first morning included kangaroos and a host of different birds, prompting a reflective conversation on whether we would like to come back in an afterlife as a bird. Quite appealing, I am sure you would agree.

After a traditional bacon and egg butty cooked up on the BBQ we drove the short distance to Elephant Rocks and neighbouring Greens Pool. Both are spectacular. Strolling along the quiet path we surprised a small mob of kangaroos. 

Wine Tasting in Denmark

Leaving the kangaroos to get back to their morning routine, we made plans for the day. Denmark is well known for its wines, and there were some favourite cellar doors we wanted to revisit, and plenty of new places that we had not yet discovered. One such place was Rockcliffe winery. Entering the cellar door, a couple were just finishing a tasting and leaving. We sat at the bar, noticing that the owner, Steve, seemed to be a million miles away. We exchanged a furtive glance, without words, saying “what are we doing here?”

We needn’t have worried. Steve warmed up, and whilst he remained a cantankerous Englishman, looking for a way to move to Italy, we had a great time sharing stories with him. He told us of his frustration with running a business in Australia and how he was ready to leave. I secretly suspect that he will still be there when we next visit, whenever that happens to be.

Our next visit that day was to Monkey Rock, which turns out to be a winery, brewery, and a cidery all in one. We tried a few of the wines but it was a four pack of the excellent preservative free apple cider that we walked away with.

Beers at Boston Brewing Company

One local institution that is going nowhere is Boston Brewing Company. Having been closed when we passed through in 2022, this was our first visit. A large brewery with an impressive outdoor space to go with a massive indoor bar and restaurant. 

Being in a region renowned for its food and drink, one of us has to be the skipper. What I am now wondering is, why is it that when I write a blog, the skipper always seems to be Victoria. I also do some of the driving. I promise. 

I savoured a pint of the excellent Great Southern IPA. If there weren’t so many other places to visit I could have happily stayed there for the afternoon. But we had places to be, specifically, The Lakehouse for lunch. This was our second visit and once again lunch was one of their excellent shared platters and a glass of their finest wine.

After a busy afternoon how to best unwind? In the outdoor bath with a bottle of local sparkling wine, of course. What started out as a novelty, then a trend, and now the norm, is the practice of including an outdoor bath at these remote cabins. You will struggle to now find one that doesn’t offer one. Saturday afternoon had us soaking in bubbles, drinking bubbles.

Returning to Albany

Some 52 kms from Denmark sits Albany. A town with beauty and character that we always love visiting. Not only for the LimeBurners whisky tasting, or the Wilson Brewery and their fine range of beers, but also because it has what Victoria has deemed to be the best Indian Restaurant in Australia. Knowing we would be so close on this weekend in the Great Southern we couldn’t resist another visit and we booked ourselves in for dinner. 

Before gorging on excellent Indian food we had a walk around Emu Point and Middleton Beach to see how it had developed since our last visit. There is always some development going on and the touted hotel we saw advertised a few years ago still hasn’t materialised.

Beer and Curry a Perfect Combination

Wilson Brewery has shifted to a new, large, town centre location since our last visit and whilst the beer remains just as good I couldn’t help feeling that the brewery has lost a lot of its charm and magic. A couple of pints and it was time for that dinner.

And how excited we were. Being English there are not many things I enjoy as much as fish and chips. Curry is one of them and tonight we were making our third (or was it our fourth) visit to Albany Tandoori. Through the meal there was a little hiccup with our order. It was taking a long time to arrive. Had they forgotten the order? Victoria enquired, sharing that we needed to be getting back to Denmark and “would the food be long”.

It wasn’t long. And when I paid the bill I was told that the price of our drinks had been removed.  Due to the “hiccup” and that we were “locals from Denmark”. I didn’t have the heart to tell her we were tourists. A free drink is a free drink. Walking back to the car, rubbing our tummies, we agreed that Albany Tandoori remains top of the curry pile.

Time to say Goodbye

All too quick, our final day had arrived. Checking out by 10am we called in at the nearby Denmark Chocolate Shop. Had we had more time I would have definitely settled in with a couple of their delicious looking scones, cream and Berry Farm jam.

As it was, we had somewhere to be, so we left with just a couple of bags of chocolate buttons. The place where we were headed was Singlefile cellar door. A return visit as we love the location, and the cellar door so much. Deciding against tasting the whole list, which is a lot of wine, we sampled a few excellent whites and a very good pinot noir. Yes, before you ask, we did walk away with a few bottles.

Sadly, it was time to head home. Being a long drive back we called in at Plantagenet Wines in Mt Barker, where we had lunch and a glass of wine. A lovely old building that used to be an apple shed, and is now a thriving winery and restaurant. A simple lunch of pizza was just what we needed.

Our thoughts return to Albany Tandoori

Heading back up Albany  highway, wine bottles rattling around the boot of the car, we finally pulled into Perth around 6pm, reflecting on such a great weekend. And the conversation over dinner that night? When can we go back for another curry!

Stepping into the same river twice

They say that once is a mistake. And twice is a choice. With this in mind we found ourselves at Mend. Again. Our very first ice bath was back in January, and here we were, in March, back for more.

If you are a regular reader of this travel blog, you will know that Mend is a relatively new addition to the Margaret River wellness scene. Set up in 2023 it has quickly gained a cult following, offering a range of options, including what we were here for once more, early on a Saturday morning. 

Mend Motions and the ice bath

The “Mend Motions” is a 90 minute session, with a maximum capacity of six guests. The idea is that you cycle the time around the infrared sauna, the ice bath, and the warming plunge pool. Prior to your first session you are sure to do what we inevitably did. Try to calculate how long this meant in each, and how we could possibly fill 90 minutes.

Let me tell you, once you are there, time is the last thing you are thinking of. In fact, on both visits now we could not believe how fast the time went. This is the exact condition that psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi called “flow”. The state you get into when time seems to magically pass.

And pass it does.

Warming up to cool down

With my belly still warm and pleasantly digesting the delicious pain au chocolat we had for breakfast from across the road at Margaret River Bakery, we got into our bathers, showered quickly, and entered the sauna. This morning it looked as though there were only three of us, but we had two others join us later. As everyone usually starts at the same time there is some mental gymnastics trying to work out who gets to move on from the sauna first. Our companion looked like a veteran and kept checking his smartwatch to ensure he had been in the sauna for his regulation time.

We had much less rigour, and I hate regulations, so we decided to head to the ice bath first. A thought that had been giving me mild anxiety since we re-booked our session some weeks before. That anxiety didn’t ease when we saw that the ice bath was literally full of ice. On our first visit the water was a balmy 4.3 degrees. This morning it was hovering around 2 degrees. I am glad one of us has bags of courage. Displaying her courage, Victoria stepped straight into the bath, parting the ice as she sank down into the deep tub. A series of quick sharp intakes of breath and she soon settled into the deep breathing that is required for ice bath immersion.

And breathe

With the clock set for three minutes, I guided Victoria through a visualisation of being sat under a warming sun. Dipping into the ocean in the Maldives. Anything to take her mind off what the near freezing temperature of the water was doing to her fight, flight, and freeze response. As you first enter the cold water your brain senses danger and screams at you to get out. A natural evolutionary reaction, designed to keep you alive. The first battle is over riding that voice and reminding yourself that you are in fact safe and have no need to escape to save your life.

The second battle is with your breathing. Getting it under control. Slowing it right down. Regulating your parasympathetic nervous system. Your “rest and digest” system. Once you have this under control you have your third and final battle. With the clock. Once you have got this far you will be surprised to note that you will be more than half way through the interminable three minutes. Now, you just have to avoid peeping at the digital clock on the wall as the seconds slowly tick by. Thoughts of Maldives and the warming ocean appear to help.

Winning the mental battle

The strange thing is, by the time the clock starts beeping, telling you that you can escape, part of you thinks “I can do longer”. That you have this. Thankfully, this is only a small part and the larger part inside me demands that I get out. Mindfully stepping out of the ice bath you find that you are tingling all over. Your legs have seized up a little. It is important at this point to move slowly. Listen to your body. Do a little stretching before heading to the warm embrace of the plunge pool.

Ah. Just how good does the plunge pool feel after your ice bath immersion? Slowly sinking into the warming waters, noticing the feelings return to your body. Start to feel human again. Realising that you have completed the first of three cycles. As you look at the clock, you do a double take. How has so much time passed? And realising that if you stay in the comfort of the plunge pool for much longer you won’t get to complete all three cycles. That is flow.

At the end of 90 minutes, showering, you do immediately feel the effects of the morning. You feel on a high. Your body feels good. And my thoughts start turning to a walk along the beach and a good coffee.

Will we return for take 3?

A different kind of day

The day after we had time to reflect whilst visiting one of our favourite venues in the South West. Not just for the food, which is AMAZING, also for the wine, which is world class. We first discovered Glenarty Road whilst on a trip from Margaret River to Pemberton. We paid a visit to the lighthouse at Cape Augusta, before heading through Karridale and calling in at “The Farm’.

On that occasion we just had a wine tasting. On several visits since we have always made sure to book ourselves in for lunch. With a philosophy of “paddock to plate”, there is a simple elegance at Glenarty Road that has simply stolen our hearts. Fine dining, in a shed. Being a working farm you also get a chance to see where your produce comes from. The carbon footprint is very low as everything is produced either right there at Glenarty Road, or by one of their neighbours.

Sitting down to eat I am not sure how Victoria felt when the waitress complemented her on the perfume she was wearing.

“Is that Chanel?” she asked.

“Yes”, replied Victoria.

“Oh, i love it. My mum wears it.”

The conversation kind of ended there. Luckily, the food saved the day.

As always when visiting wine country, and in a region as large as the South West of Australia, one of you needs to be the skipper. For this particular trip, Victoria had the car keys. I got to enjoy an extra glass of their excellent 2023 Kinfolk Chardonnay. Oh my!

Thoughts of returning

Glenarty Road is a place that we continue to return to. We will again. And as I sipped my wine I wondered when our next visit to Mend, for the ice bath, would be.

The Hot Spot for 2025

It pays to get ahead of the trends. Visit a place before it becomes the next Santorini. Not easy in today’s hyper connected world. When a photo shared on social media could result in a swarm of influencers immediately removing any of the beauty that was apparent to earlier visitors.

Having recently read an article in Conde Nast Traveller Magazine about the hottest spot for food and drink in 2025, I was relieved that we already had a trip booked. A trip that would allow us to enjoy the place before the hordes descended. It turns out we needn’t have worried.

Perth – A Long Way from Anywhere

Living in Perth comes with a large downside. It is a long way from anywhere else in Australia. This trip fell into our “short flight” category, with Adelaide being only 2 hours 50 minutes away. Flying early in the morning somewhat compensated for the time zone change. With clocks going forward two and a half hours upon landing. 

Yes, you read that right. There is an erroneous half hour in there. Apparently harking back to 1899, and a time when local businesses wanted to be closer to Melbourne and cricketers wanted more daylight to play extra overs. The move was made away from the traditional one hour difference between adjacent time zones. Why they still have it is another question.

Clare Valley Wine Region

This was our first visit to Clare Valley, and having visited both Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale wine regions, also in Adelaide, we were excited to try out some new cellar doors. Also, we had heard that the region is very proud of their Riesling. Travelling with hand luggage only, we already knew it would be a difficult decision which bottles to pack and bring home with us. If you are reading this, and work at Qantas, we promise we remained under the 10kg hand luggage limits. Pinky promise.

Mount Horrocks was the first vineyard we visited. After one and half hours in the car, north from Adelaide (130kms), we were glad to stretch the legs and try a cold drink. Mount Horrocks is located in a village called Auburn, in the south of Clare Valley. Certified 100% organic and biodynamic, we joined just one other couple in the blissfully air conditioned cellar door and got to work.

Winemaker, Stephanie Toole, has an award hanging in the cellar door, for her services to wine making in the region. And this is richly deserved, based on the wines that we got to try. Riesling being the wine that now defines Clare Valley, the 2024 Watervale Riesling was exquisite. What I hadn’t realised before this trip was the cellaring potential of Riesling. For instance, this wine could potentially be laid down for up to 15 years.If only I had that kind of patience.

Wine Influencers and the Power of Social Media

One surprise that I walked away with was a bottle of Nero D’Avola. What I didn’t know was that this sumptuous Sicilian red wine from Mount Horrocks already has a cult following. The lady in the cellar door telling us a funny story. Of how she suddenly started getting lots of young people rocking up, phones in hand, pointing to someone called Tom Gilbey, saying “we only want to try the wine he is having”.

As with the lady working at Mount Horrocks, I am not on the app called Tik Tok either, but apparently Mr Gilbey has been creating quite the storm, recommending the Nero D’Avola to his 200+ thousand followers. As I mentioned earlier, the power of social media is shrinking the world.

Before we headed to our home for the weekend, “Stables by the Vines”, a converted stable in a small village called Mintaro, we called in at Claymore Wines. Part of me wished we hadn’t. I was greeted by Liverpool FC memorabilia and a wine called “YNWA”. I bit my tongue and reluctantly agreed that the whole range of wines, both white and red (including the obscenely named one) was very quaffable. So quaffable that Mrs C ordered a box of 6 to be shipped back West. I did wonder if it was the wine, or the football affiliation that convinced her to get her credit card out.

Sleepy Mintaro

Mintaro was a short drive away and if we thought that Clare Valley had been quiet, it was to get even quieter. Mintaro has a pub, a post office, a lawn bowls club, one small cellar door with a restaurant that was closed for a month, and nothing else. Literally. Perhaps one of the quietest spots we have ever stayed in. And it was so peaceful. For dinner we strolled the two minutes across to the pub, the Magpie and Stump, which is apparently famous in the region. I suppose when you are the only pub for miles, there is a lot to be famous for.

A typical country pub, with locals perched in their usual seats at the bar, and a food menu that is “classic” heavy. I had food envy when I saw Victoria’s chicken schnitty. My pork ribs were good, whilst not excellent. One thing that strikes me when we leave Western Australia is the shortage of craft beers. Adelaide is rightly proud of its Coopers beer, and it complemented my dinner well, and I would have loved a wider range to choose from.

The Riesling Trail

Covering a distance of 33kms, from Riverton in the north and Auburn in the south, the Riesling Trail was formerly part of a railway line that ran all the way from Adelaide to Spalding. Opened in 1994 as the Riesling Trail, it is now firmly part of the fibre of Clare Valley and is a massive draw for tourists. 

We collected our ebikes from Riesling Trail Bike Hire, and had a great conversation with Kent, the owner since opening his doors 15 years ago. A very down to earth, convivial, and friendly man, Kent advised on what he thought our best options were on a day when the mercury was forecast to hit the high 30s.

Paulette Winery and those ants

Our first stop was pre-planned as we had a wine tasting flight booked at Paulette Wines in Polish Hill River. Setting off on our bikes, and getting used to the gears and the battery assistance, we made light work of the hill up to the winery. Chrissy in the cellar door was very friendly, giving us the kind of service that we soon realised was indicative of everyone in Clare Valley. Maybe it is all the Riesling, maybe it is something in the water, but the people of Clare Valley were so friendly, fun, and welcoming.

And this is what we came for. Not only a visual work of art, but some great wines and delicious paired food. I opted for the “Riesling Flight” and Victoria had the “Premium Flight”, despite one of the dishes (the second from the left) being adorned by green ants. Yes. Green ants. Chrissy told us that they add a pop and a hit of citrus to the dish. I am not sure it was the pop, or the citrus that caused the look on Victoria’s face as she ate them.

Back on the Riesling Trail

Heading further south on the Riesling Trail we crossed the highway and joined the John Horrocks loop, having great tastings at both Kilikanoon and Skillogalee (Skilly). Both are easier to pronounce at the start of a day wine tasting, than at the end. Over the hill from Skilly, and down into the valley we called at Clare Valley Brewing Company, having an excellent hazy pale ale and splitting a tasty fish and chips.

Trundling slowly back on the trail, we took time to reflect on a really enjoyable day. A safe way to explore the Clare Valley, whilst being out and appreciating the native fauna and flora. We were glad of the battery assistance on the way home, our legs, and the heat starting to tire us out. Kent at Riesling Trail Bike Hire was very happy to see us return a little early as he had plans to “smash a large gin and tonic”. 

Relaxing in Mintaro

Our plans were relaxing back at the cottage in Mintaro. Cracking open a chilled bottle of local Watervale Riesling and sitting with views of the vines and rolling hills. It is amazing when you realise what that noise is. Silence. No cars passing by. No voices nearby. Just the sound of birdsong. We marvelled as Crimson Rosellas came to visit with the Flaming Galahs in the garden whilst a solitary Kookaburra stood guard, high up in the nearby gum tree.

Sat there, sipping my Riesling, something kept flashing across my peripheral vision. There, again. And suddenly I noticed that there were bunny rabbits everywhere. Literally. Their fluffy white tails on display when any noise startled them. 

Chatting to a local we discovered that they have been an issue for a long time in Mintaro. With the long running drought affecting the area, the rabbits, like all the animals, are desperate for water. This results in them chewing through reticulation pipes, and digging up new plants. One drastic course of action the locals have taken is leaving out “spicy carrots” for the rabbits. Needless to say, one spicy carrot results in one less rabbit in Mintaro. 

Whilst there were many rabbits, one thing that struck us for the whole three days we were in Clare Valley was just how few tourists there were. Before a really good lunch and paddle of craft beer at Pikes Beer Company, we visited Pikes Wines next door and were the only people in the cellar door. Just prior we had a very enjoyable tasting at Hill River Wines, and, other than a large hare, and a duck, again were the only visitors that had been that day. Parking up the car for the day, our final tasting was at Reilly’s in Mintaro. At 4pm the young man working in the cellar door was cleaning up. Before us, he had only had one visitor all day. Where was everyone?

Conde Nast and THAT article

Whilst in Pikes Wines I had a chat with the gentleman working there, about what he thought the impact would be of a global travel magazine, the size of Conde Nast, announcing Clare Valley as the number one food and drink destination in the world. It wasn’t the response I expected.

He had not even heard of the magazine, or the article. Neither had his colleague. Blank looks all around. I think this is a travesty. That the Clare Valley region, and the people working there are not all over this massive, positive piece of global press, and doing all they can to make the most of the opportunity.

And what an opportunity. This is a beautiful part of the world. Only a short drive from Adelaide, and an international airport. World class wines, and it is not all about Riesling. We sampled some excellent Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Semillon, and not forgetting the unforgettable Nero D’Avola that Tom Gilbey is so fond of. The wines were so good we shipped three boxes home and packed two each in our hand luggage, and carried one on to the plane. Twenty three bottles to add to our burgeoning collection at home. 

Visit Before you Can’t

My recommendation to you is to visit before everyone in the region, and across the world, finally gets around to reading that article. And before any more wine influencers post content from one of the local cellar doors. I predict that in a very short space of time, Clare Valley will be like many other wine regions in Australia. The top tourist draw of the state, and you will need Willy Wonkas Golden Ticket just to get a reservation.

The what and the how

• We flew Perth to Adelaide with Qantas.

• Car hire was from Enterprise at Adelaide Airport.

• Bike hire was from Riesling Trail Bike Hire.

• Clare Valley is 130kms north of Adelaide city centre.

The Rise of the Ice Bath

Unless you have been living under a rock, or have been disconnected from the internet for the last five years, you will have heard of, and seen somebody attempting an ice bath. You have those that approach the bath very tentatively and start by sticking their toe in. Screaming hysterically as they run away shouting, “it is too cold”. And you have those that step straight in as though they were on the shores of the Maldives.

Today was my turn to find out which camp I was in. Today was our very first ice bath experience.

The benefits of hot/cold therapy are many, if the current research is to be believed. Our bodies are complex organisms and much happens below the surface when we expose ourselves to the contrast of heat and cold. You experience an adrenaline spike that targets pain and inflammation. There is a decrease in the stress hormone, cortisol. And your lymphatic system is triggered, flushing out toxins.

Mend, Margaret River

Located in the heart of Margaret River, a small town some three hours south of Perth, Mend was established at the end of 2023 as a “premium recovery centre and spa”. A place where you can mend your body. Packages include the use of an infrared sauna and massages, but we were here today to experience the “Mend Motions”.

Mend Motions is a 90 minute session in a shared space with a maximum of six people. For a cost of $65 each we had the use of the Finnish style sauna, a hot plunge pool, and critically, the ice bath. 

Guided Tour of Mend

Being our first experience at Mend, we had a short guided tour and were told how to best use the 90 minutes we had. The idea was to have three rounds of 30 minutes. Starting in the sauna, then the ice bath, and finishing the cycle in the hot plunge pool. This seemed easy enough. I enjoy saunas and whilst the dry heat is not for everyone I feel invigorated everytime I use a sauna.

The Ice Bath Experience

Stepping out of the sauna it was time for our first ever ice bath. The lady who gave us the short guided tour earlier was back to step us through the ice bath. As she set the wall timer above the ice bath for three minutes I nervously looked at Victoria, wondering who was going first. With a sigh of relief, she stepped forward and stepped straight into the bath. Without any hesitation she was soon fully submerged in the icy cold water. It now appeared to be too late for me to back out.

As Victoria focussed on slow deep breathing, she was advised to just think of it as cold water. Which is exactly what it was. The trick is to override your brain which is screaming and sending out streams of adrenaline, telling your body it is in danger and to escape as fast as you can. Apparently, this was the first mental challenge. One that Victoria took in her stride.

It is amazing to me how cold I felt just watching Victoria. I was actually a little scared of the three minute timer finishing. This would mean it was my turn. I wasn’t sure I was ready.

With calming words from the lady from Mend, the time was suddenly up.

“How was it?”, I asked.

“Cold”, was all the reply I got.

No Backing Out Now

Here goes, I thought. And not to be outdone, I made sure I got straight in, and under the water before my brain had time to register what was happening. I was in, and the seconds were counting down. I had previously read of a technique whereby you think of the sunshine beating down. Trick the brain into thinking you were warm.

This did not work. And by the time I realised it didn’t work, I was already two minutes in. This was a win, in my book. As my legs and upper arms started to feel like they were burning, which I know sounds odd, I focused on my long, slow breaths. In for nine. Out for nine. Suddenly, the timer on the wall was chiming. I had done it. My first ice bath. For three minutes. 

Regaining The Use of My Legs

Getting out, we were advised to slowly stretch your legs. Move. Get the blood flowing through your body and then step into the hot plunge pool. Apart from a slight tingling, the plunge pool was a welcome relief and after a minute or two I started to feel human again. Laid there, luxuriating in the warm water, I got a sense of dread, realising that we still had two more rounds to go.

“Don’t worry,” said George, a young traveller from the UK, “it gets easier the second time around.”

George had opted out of the Parkrun that his girlfriend was doing that morning so he could revisit Mend. I had to question his state of mind. I am not a regular runner but we had a warm summer day in Margaret River, and he had chosen to submerge himself in arctic temperature water.

We started round two, back in the sauna, and had a brief chat with a couple on holiday from the Central Coast, north of Sydney. 

“It gets easier the second time around”, they reassured us.

Yes, I thought, so why are you only doing two minutes each? 

Ice Bath Masters

For the second and third round we were no longer guided by the Mend staff member. We were on our own. And just like our first ice bath, we each took our turn and boldly stepped straight in, and went under. Apparently, having your toes popping out helps. I will gladly accept any edge I can get.

It really is true. Half of the battle is mental. As soon as you are in your brain is shouting at you to get out. And it would be so easy to listen to. And jump straight out. But, slowly breathing through it, focusing solely on your breath, really does quieten the mind. I worked out that the longer my breaths, the faster the time seemed to pass.

Sat in the hot plunge pool, George appeared.

“So, did it get easier?” he asked.

“Absolutely not, but thank you for the encouragement.”

We were two rounds down, and one to go. We could do this.

Reflecting on the Mend Experience

And we did. Our 90 minute session had come to a close. Where did the time go? Sipping our liquorice, peppermint and ginger tea, Victoria asked me whether I would do it again.

Ask me in a week, was my reply. I am headed for the beach.

Leaving Taormina, we took a taxi down the steep and winding streets to the train station. Actually called Taormina-Giardini Naxos, the station is one of the world’s most elegant. Spotted in films such as Francis Ford Coppolla’s “Godfather III”, the Art Nouveau station has been serving this part of Sicily since 1866. Today, we were headed up the coast, to Messina, where we would change trains for our final destination of the day.

That destination was to be a further 185 kms west of Messina, to the resort town of Cefalu. With a town centre dominated by the very impressive Duomo, construction for which started in 1131, Cefalu is one of Italy’s most popular destinations, attracting both Italian and overseas tourists in their millions. We had two nights to explore. 

Upon arrival at our bed and breakfast we again had no elevator. Once more we were carrying our bags up multiple flights of very steep stairs. I am burning off my gelato calories faster than I am eating it. Hot, sweaty, and trying to smile whilst checking in. Have I ever told you how hot Sicily is in the height of summer? It is not the weather for climbing stairs.

Thankfully, we had good air conditioning, and cold water. Before too long we were ready to head out and explore. And perhaps find some gelato.

A Sicilian Slush Puppy

What we did find was another Sicilian staple. Granita. If you are from the UK, think of a Slush Puppy. A granita is a smaller, more refined version. The most popular flavour being a very sharp lemon. Served in a small cup and eaten with a spoon, a granita is THE way to cool down in this part of the world. Earlier that day we also had something else that you may be familiar with. Arancini originate from Sicily. What I didn’t realise was that the name, arancini, is derived from the word for orange. Which makes sense when I think of the shape and the colour. Golden globes of heaven.

Sicilians are very proud of their arancini, and there are specialist shops dedicated to their production. I can confirm, they do make the best street lunch. You can get every filling imaginable in these little globes of rice, and for us the simplest fillings are always the best. This is why travelling is so culturally rewarding. Getting to experience a culture through its food. Hundreds, and sometimes thousands of years of history, of people passing through a place, leaving their distinct cultural fingerprint in the cuisine. It is one of the joys of my life.

Beach to Beef in Cefalu

Cefalu is more than just its food. There is also a great swathe of beach that we planned to spend some time on. As we saw in other parts of Italy, Italians do love a day at the beach. They arrive early, with the whole family in tow, and set up for the day. We are a little less hard core, and we spent a few hours frolicking in the sea, with me taking intermittent trips to the nearby shop for cold beers.

When we planned our trip to Cefalu, besides the beach, we also planned to have beef. We discovered that there was a restaurant called “BIF Braceria” that specialised in steaks. Knowing that by the time we hit Cefalu, we would enjoy a break from pizza and pasta, we had booked a table for dinner.

What a night we had. Steak tartare. Followed by a t-bone steak. Complemented by a 2015 bottle of Sicilian red wine. A highlight of the trip, and quite possibly one of the most expensive meals we have ever enjoyed. Worth every Euro. Life is for living, and we will forget what we paid long before we forget the memories made that evening. Memento mori.

Palermo

More memories were to be made, and following a great visit to Cefalu we were headed to the capital to finish the Sicilian part of our trip. A short train ride from Cefalu and we were soon wheeling our bags through the streets of Palermo. We found our accommodation superbly located in the bustling heart of Palermo. And yes, you guessed it. No elevator. More stairs. But, what a view from the breakfast terrace.

We were now down to the last four days of  the holiday. Three of which we would spend in Palermo, a city that has much to offer. But first, Aperol Spritz. Tradition is tradition.

The Food Markets of Palermo

Palermo is famous for its outdoor food markets. Sharing many characteristics with the souks of Arabia, the markets are an assault on the senses. Vibrant, noisy, and smells that compel you to grab lunch on the go. Palermo has four historic quarters, each with its own market. The most popular being Vucciria and Ballaro. Just strolling through is an experience in itself. A must do whilst in Palermo.

No Mafia

Another place I would recommend is “No Mafia”, a museum (free entry) dedicated to the history of the mafia. Highlighting the tragic cost the people of Sicily have paid as a result of the mafia, No Mafia is an educational museum, showcasing the work done by the justice system in Sicily in trying to eradicate the insidious tentacles of the mafia. Tentacles that seemed to be entwined in many parts of Sicilian life for hundreds of years, from their humble beginnings in the Sicilian countryside to a worldwide organisation.

With thoughts turning back to food, it was time to find a recommendation we had received from the bed and breakfast host. Apparently, hidden away in the back of a monastery there was a bakery serving up the best cannoli in the whole of Sicily. This is what I am here for. Following the directions we got we headed through a quiet doorway, down labyrinthine corridors, eventually coming across a large room that housed the bakery. 

And the cannoli were…huge! Of course we were getting one each. Sat in the quiet courtyard, slowly working our way through the cannoli, all we could do was smile. This was indeed the best cannoli in the whole of Sicily, if not Italy. Palermo is a great city to explore by foot. Which is a relief as it may take me a week to burn off that cannoli. 

Palermo on Foot

We explored all corners of the city. And for a city that is over 2,700 years old, there is a lot to explore.  From the newer parts of the city, at the marina, to the very oldest with the combination of Baroque, Art Nouveau, Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Quattro Canti is one of the most impressive examples. A crossing of two main roads, the buildings on all four sides have diagonal Baroque facades creating an almost octagonal form. Quite the sight.

Our time in Sicily was drawing to a close. We had experienced the best of it. Food. Beaches. Architecture. History. And people. Such a rich place to visit. Rich in culture. World class wines. In another world we would stay here and explore the south coast, but that will have to wait. We had a date with the city to end all cities. A plane was due to transport us to the Eternal City.

Craving Carbonara

The last night of our European Odyssey would be spent in Rome. And boy, was I looking forward to getting my hands on a bowl of perfect carbonara. As soon as we knew we would be flying home from Rome I knew where we would spend the evening. The suburb of Trastevere is not the secret it once was. It has been truly discovered by the people of the world, but you can still find hidden pockets of tranquility, as we did that evening, sitting down to Rigatoni Carbonara in a quiet square.

Flying into Rome in the afternoon, and waiting almost two hours for our baggage to appear, we just had time for a whistle stop tour of all our favourite Roman spots. Staying within sight of the Coliseum made this an easy visit. Strolling along from there to the “typewriter building”, (the Victor Emmanuel II monument) and around to the Trevi Fountain. By the time we had explored Piazza Navona and the Pantheon we needed a cold beer, which gave us the energy we needed to visit the Spanish Steps before, tiredly, walking back to the bed and breakfast to change for dinner.

Reflections

Over a delicious bowl of carbonara we reflected on the last five weeks. Starting in England, visiting family and friends, before we headed to Puglia and Basilicata. Sicily followed, and now we were closing out the trip here in Rome. We had seen, and eaten so much. And again, I was reminded how much I love Italy. I wondered when we would be back.

The Journey is the Destination

Whilst the destination part of the holiday was over, we still had the “journey” part to enjoy. Our Emirates chauffeur collected us from our bed and breakfast in Rome and quite possibly broke all land speed records as he drove us to the airport. Checked in seamlessly, I was soon trying to set a personal best of how many lamb cutlets I could eat.

The Emirates Business Class lounge at Rome is a sight to behold. A quiet caccoon of paradise where we spent our last couple of hours on Italian soil. Restaurant quality food. Self pour of champagne. And boarding direct from the lounge. Settling into my business class seat, glass of Veuve Cliquot in hand, and I was mentally calculating how many years I would need to save for us to do it all over again.