Explore with Fran : in Prague and Bratislava

Auf wiedersehen, Germany

The Ibis hotel in Berlin was certainly no frills. Comfortable, convenient, central and no kettle. I know, call me demanding. A kettle is one of the essentials I expect when booking a hotel. My perfect morning starts with freshly brewed coffee. There is a reason I always travel with my V60 pour over and a bag of fresh coffee. Thankfully I was able to get hot water from the machine downstairs and bring it up to the room so I can make my brew.

Today we were headed to another new country for Victoria, and one I have previously visited. Not being able to watch the previous nights football, England’s victory over Mexico we weren’t as tired as I expected us to be. And we had a relatively short travel day. Just a four hours and twenty minute Flixbus ride from the German capital to the capital of the Czech Republic.

Pulling in to Prague

We pulled into Prague at the bus station on the outskirts of town. With much development ongoing it looks as though the town is rapidly expanding. Thankfully, the historic centre of Prague is a UNESCO heritage protected site and thus will remain beautiful, historic, and charming. There is so much character around every turn. Getting lost amongst the old town is one of travel’s treasures.

Another of travel’s treasures is getting to sample the local cuisine, and as such dinner that evening had me tackling the world’s biggest pork knuckle. Looking around the restaurant I did wonder why everyone appeared to be sharing it. Then it turned up at the table. And I saw why. As Victoria had ordered a schnitzel this was one beast I would have to conquer alone. I rolled home that evening with a sense of accomplishment.

Thinking I would never eat again, imagine how surprised I was the next day to find a huge hot dog in my hand. I know, I know, I would make a terrible vegetarian. Don’t judge me. We had enjoyed some very good hot dogs on our odyssey across Europe and the ones in Prague were no exception. Why do they always taste better with a cold beer?

Exploring Prague Castle

Trying to walk off some of the effects of all the food we decided to make the steep walk up to Prague Castle. Despite me visiting Prague several times previously I had never been up to the castle. And it was a very steep walk that rewards you with some stunning views across the Vltava river and sweeping views of the city. We had a very enjoyable day exploring the castle and its grounds. Golden Lane was a highlight and we got to visit the very small house that Franz Kafka called home between 1916 and 1917 as he wrote the collection of short stories in “A Country Doctor”.

Kafka in Prague

I have long been a fan of Kafka’s writing and I love just wandering the city and imagining the young Franz going about his day. Working as an insurance clerk and writing at night, Kafka died at age 40 as a relative unknown. He was a prodigious writer, very often torn between the necessity to work and earn a living, and the deep desire to follow his passion, which was writing. Who has not felt torn by this in life? It is only because his final wish to destroy his books was ignored that he is now known across the world as one of the giants of literature.

Whilst in Prague I love to try the traditional food. As with the gigantic pork knuckle mentioned earlier I also got to have a very good beef goulash. Despite Victoria protesting that it looked like something someone had brought back up after a bad meal it was delicious. And who can come to Prague without sampling a few of the rather excellent local beers. Despite being on a travel budget (as opposed to a holiday budget – the distinction becomes very real when travelling) we did manage a pint or three.

A curious point on the beer in Prague. The longer we were there the bigger the head on the beer seemed to be getting. It appears to be a point of pride for bartenders to get a really big head on the beer and it looked as though we were in danger of getting a glass full of froth.

Prague’s Astronomical Clock

Our AirBnB was excellently located, right in the Old Town, mere steps from the famous Astronomical Clock. A clock that Victoria stood and watched and asked “is it going to do anything exciting?” It doesn’t and yet on the hour, every hour, hordes of tourists congregate around the front of it, videoing I don’t really know what. I am sure they have seen everyone else doing it on Instagram and TikTok and they don’t want to miss out.

In and around the old town of Prague there are some excellent sculptures to hunt down. The most from an artist called David Černý. One of which you would miss completely unless you look up high. “Man hanging out” is reputed to depict the great Sigmund Freud. Černý has a number of other sculptures scattered about that make for great fun in finding them.

After a great three days exploring Prague it was time to hit the road again. Walking back to the bus station for our four hour Flixbus ride I was excited at the thought of adding a new country to my list. A new country for both of us this time. We were heading into Slovakia, and the capital Bratislava.

Beautiful Bratislava

Located on the Danube river, in the south west of the country, Bratislava is one of those cities that has flown under the radar for many years. And now, it is becoming increasingly popular. And from what we saw, for very good reason. We were only going to be in the city for one night. As happens whilst long term travelling plans inevitably change and pivot. Our original intention had been to go to Slovenia and visit Lake Bled. However, logistically, and financially (travel budget remember), it wasn’t feasible. It would just make it so much harder for us to achieve the rest of the travel plan. Slovenia will just have to wait for another year.

So, we found ourselves exploring the beautiful city of Bratislava. With an old town that is compact and full of restaurants and bars. Bars selling great craft beer. The place has definitely been discovered. Not that it felt over touristed but there were plenty of people milling around, taking photos and having dinner out on the sidewalk cafes and restaurants. The old town had a vibrancy to it. I even indulged in my love for local food. This time trying the “pressburg crackling bun”, a strange little pastry made with bacon fat. I know, it sounds odd. And it was. A little. But I will never die wondering.

Sadly, we were only here for the day and overnight. We enjoyed a local dinner of pierogi with a glass of wine before strolling back to our apartment up by the train station. A location chosen strategically as the airport bus goes from right across the road. We would be taking the short ride to the airport in the morning for our next destination. And another new country for both of us.