Explore with Fran

We were chatting yesterday about the abrupt shift to lockdown in Perth, and how we have had to adapt to a new situation. Again. The new, new, normal? Or just something different for a short while? Time will tell, but these bloody masks are uncomfortable. The current Perth lockdown runs through to Friday at 6pm, COVID situation permitting, and this is the story of days 1 and 2.

Monday, 1st February, 2021

Pinch, punch, first of the month. February already. Wasn’t it just Xmas? The start of the week is always a work from home day for me. For months we have both been working a mix of the office and at home, and Monday always finds me easing into the working week from the comfort of home. So in many respects the day started normal. Hybrid normal.

The first signs of anything being different, as well as us having to put our masks on to leave the house, was when the local coffee shop refused to take my reusable coffee cup. Back to paper cups from the cafe for the next week. Small sacrifices and I am grateful that the cafes are remaining open for takeaway so I am able to pick up a coffee as I get my daily exercise.

Exercising in lockdown

In keeping with lockdowns that have happened across the world, we are able to leave home for only four specific reasons. Exercise is one of those reasons and we are doing our best to make sure we take advantage of the allotted 1 hour by taking extended walks through the neighbourhood.

As the gym is closed for the week we are also adding some mat work at home. A short burst of core work for the abdominals, and a yoga class to keep our bodies moving. We are currently using the “Glo” app which is proving to be excellent. Thousands of classes spanning yoga, pilates, and meditation. I would highly recommend it if you are looking to add to your self care routine at home.

Laid on my yoga mat, staring at the large collection of wine in the kitchen is sending subliminal messages to my brain. But, Monday is an alcohol free day, so I must resist. I must.

Tuesday, 2nd February, 2021

Day 2 of lockdown and I am pleased to report that we did resist the wine. A small win for us.

Bush Fires

The day started with the unmistakable smell of smoke. The bush fires north of Perth have doubled overnight with the changing weather conditions. The update from the Premier tells us that 56 houses have so far been destroyed by the raging fires. Our thoughts are with everyone affected.

This means the government is currently fighting two emergencies side by side. Following the bush fire update at Mark McGowan’s morning press conference, he then went on to give a COVID19 update that provided a first glimmer of hope.

Testing Times

There were over 16,000 COVID19 tests done across Perth yesterday and for the second consecutive day we have zero new cases of local transmission of the virus. We saw first hand just how long people are waiting for the tests to be done as the cars were queuing around the block from the nearby testing centre. Queues of up to 6 hours had been reported at some testing centres.

Contact tracing continues for the hotel security guard that has triggered this 5 day lockdown. There is an ongoing investigation into how the virus managed to leave the hotel and early findings suggest that the security guard had delivered medicine to the room of a person who was quarantining in the hotel, and who had tested positive for COVID19.

Mental Fatigue

For the last few months I have been in the office on Tuesdays, as had the majority of my colleagues. It was a little strange once again transitioning from a large, in person meeting, to all being remote and on a video call. You will have no doubt read of the impact of mental fatigue from the various video technologies, and how the brain reacts in a specific way to seeing yourself and your colleagues on a little screen all day. This is how I am starting to feel again after only two days of being back to full remote. I know many of you still haven’t returned to the office from the initial outbreak of COVID and I can only imagine how you must be feeling.

I am taking a slightly early mark today, switching the video off, and reverting to analogue for a while. I need to recharge my brain.

The second full day of lockdown ended and the wine is still trying to tempt me to the dark side. In the remaining days of lockdown, what will go first, my willpower or the wine?

Sunday, 31 January 2021

The news came through as we were preparing for our second attempt to get out on the Swan River. Bought in December as a birthday gift, we had turned up at Mayland’s jetty to take ourselves boating, courtesy of Nauti Picnics. Self piloted boats that you can take out without a boat licence.

Just as we arrived at the jetty on that clear December day, the heavens opened, the wind suddenly became cyclonic, and it became very clear, very quickly that we wouldn’t be boating any time soon. Drenched, in t-shirts and shorts, with the cardboard box holding our picnic quickly collapsing, we ordered an Uber and headed home.

Take two. We had booked for today and both smiled outwardly when we woke to glorious blue skies and not a whisper of a wind. Once again, the picnic was booked for 1.30pm from the excellent Chinta cafe, and we were almost ready to set off when the phone rang.

Best Laid Plans

Judging by Victoria’s expression, and the way the conversation seemed to be going, I sensed immediately that something was awry. I couldn’t have predicted what was to transpire, yet now, the inevitability of it all is starting to sink in.

After 10 months of no community transmission in West Australia, we now have our first new case of COVID19 that is not safely contained in a quarantine hotel. In fact, it has somehow escaped from one of these dedicated hotels, with a hotel worker testing positive for COVID19 overnight.

You could never accuse our Premier of being faint hearted and in a midday press conference he announced that the whole of Perth would enter a full lockdown from 6pm. Lasting for 5 days, it would run through to next Friday at 6pm. Perfect timing to celebrate with a pint in the local pub if you ask me. I am not sure Mark McGowan is feeling quite as confident.

Toilet Roll Tales

Rather predictably, but a sad indictment of how humanity sometimes behaves, panic buying immediately ensued. The queues for Woolworths were like we had seen in the first throes of the pandemic, back in March last year. What do people do with all that toilet roll?

Rather more pressing for us, as we had done our big shop that morning and had already bought toilet roll for the week, we needed to buy a couple of face masks as they had been made mandatory for the lockdown period. The first time this has happened in Perth.

Both local pharmacies had sold out, and there was no chance of us getting into Woolworths any time soon. Without a mask we would be unable to leave the house for my morning coffee, or for the designated 1 hour daily exercise. This was one occasion that social media proved useful. A member of a local Facebook group indicated quite late in the evening that the local IGA now had some in stock. I have never changed out of my pyjamas as fast, and by 9pm we had a supply of masks, albeit at an exorbitant mark up. 

What Happens Next?

We had negotiated the start of the lockdown, but what would the rest of the week bring, we wondered?

It is not all about the wine

Producing some of the worlds best wines for decades, Margaret River has rightly gained a fantastic reputation amongst wine lovers around the globe. With top class restaurants at many of the cellar doors, the Margaret River region has become a mecca for foodies and wine lovers alike.  I have previously written about why you should be adding Margaret River to your “must visit” list.

Whilst some may say it is never too early for wine, (didn’t Jimmy Buffet sing ‘It is 5 o’clock somewhere’?), the best way to spend the hours between breakfast and wine is undoubtedly coffee.

There are now places in Margaret River pumping out coffee that stands up there with the best wines in terms of quality. Yeah, I am being totally serious. Wine tasting connoisseurs will be interested to read that coffee has a taste profile often more complex than wine.

If you love a great cup of coffee, and are looking for the best coffee in Margaret River, here are a few coffee shops to add to your must visit list:

The Best Coffee with a View – The White Elephant Cafe

Looking for the best coffee in Margaret River with a view? Occupying a prime piece of real estate, hugging the beach in Gnarabup, is the White Elephant cafe. Known to the locals as “The Elie”, the owners of this local institution have been feeding hungry swimmers and surfers since 2010. With a location as stunning as this it wasn’t long before the secret got out, and now The Elie serves up quality coffee to tourists and locals alike between the summer hours of 7am to 3pm.

On warm summer days, sit out on the wide, expansive timber deck, and listen to the waves lapping the shore as your eye is drawn up the beautiful coastline, towards Prevelly beach.

When the weather turns, and the cold sets in, have your coffee inside, in front of the fire, enjoying one of the simple delicious breakfasts. You may not want to leave.

The Best Coffee with Character – Yardbyrd

Just a few minutes south from Margaret River town, in Witchcliffe, is this hidden gem. Producing the best coffee in Margaret River with character, Yardbyrd is entered through a colourful, leafy courtyard that has plenty of seats. There is also an option to sit inside amongst lots of little quirky paraphernalia. Touches that may remind you of being sat in your Grandma’s lounge. So much character in such a small space.

The service here is pleasantly quick and the coffee served up is excellent. The double shot latte is as good as you will taste in WA. So good in fact that, like me, you are likely to find yourself returning again and again. 

Order coffee, and the excellent poached eggs on sourdough, whiling away the morning until you are ready for your first wine tasting of the day at the nearby Redgate Wines. You will not be disappointed. 

The Best Coffee with a Shot of Nature – Commonage Coffee Co.

A relatively new addition to the coffee scene in Margaret River, Commonage Coffee Co is quickly gaining a reputation as the go to place for your morning brew. Situated on Commonage Road, this family run business is entered via a short walk that makes you really feel as though you are having a walk in the woods. Bordered by vineyards, this is the quintessential Margaret River location. The best coffee in Margaret River amongst nature.

A large outdoor deck is perfect for the warmer months, with plenty of indoor seating options. Even an oversize sofa that is not quite as comfortable as it looks. But try it for yourself.

Every coffee lover’s taste is catered for here and you can evidently see the love of coffee these guys have. I can vouch for the strong latte, which is excellent. And there are a range of batch brews available if you prefer your coffee filtered.

The Best Coffee with the Cows – Two Cracks Coffee

What have cows got to do with coffee, you ask? Welcome to the village of Cowaramup, where cows come with the territory. And not all real cows either. Ten minutes north of Margaret River town, Cowaramup has embraced our bovine friends, with many painted examples lining both sides of the street. There is even a golden one, at the top of a large water feature, a tongue in cheek nod to the nearby Robert Oatley vineyard.

Two Cracks Coffee & Roastery is a welcome addition to Cowaramup. Pumping out great shots of espresso, resulting in very good strong lattes, call here before it is acceptable to head to Cowaramup Brewing Company for one of their excellent beer paddles.

Where is your best coffee in Margaret River?

Coffee lovers, where are your “go to” places whilst down in the Margaret River region? Where should I visit for my next cup of coffee in Margaret River? In your opinion, where is the best coffee in Margaret River?

Saturday – Day 1 – Perth to Cervantes (211kms)

Excited, we woke early and after a light breakfast we got an Uber out towards the airport. No, we weren’t flying today. We were headed to Apollo campervan rentals, on the outskirts of the airport. Being confined to the state of West Australia for the whole year, it was obvious many locals, known as sandgropers in these parts, had the same idea as us, and we all patiently waited our turn to get out and hit the wide open spaces.

On previous road trips we had always booked the “hi top” campervan. Small, but with enough room for two people. When I saw the van we booked this time I thought “good lord”. It looked much bigger than I imagined. Much bigger. It turns out we had booked a motorhome. 

The first day was one of our shortest in terms of driving distance, yet we managed to break it up as we eased into the holiday. Cruising up the Indian Ocean Road we had a stop in Lancelin for lunch. Apparently, Lancelin is “addictive” if the local tourism board is to be believed. I’m not sure I’d agree. After lunch at the Lobbster cafe (spelling intended) of a lobster wrap each which cost as much as a small deposit on a house, we were back on the road, headed to the fabled Pinnacles.

It wouldn’t take us many more days to understand that every National Park we entered would cost us $15. It was no different at the Namburg National Park, home of the Pinnacles. And it was worth every cent. A must visit on any road trip from Perth to Exmouth.

What a sight the Pinnacles are. Reaching up, out of the ground, like soldiers erect in the face of the blazing sun. Opting for the walk amongst them, we were able to get up and close to these limestone wonders that have been here for over 25000 years.

The town of Cervantes (population 527) is named after a ship that came to grief off the coast. The ship itself is said to have been named after the legendary Spanish author, which cleared up my confusion upon being greeted by Don Quixote and Sancho Panza on arrival. There are nods to Spain all across this small town with streets named after cities and rivers from the Iberian peninsular.

We stayed the night at the RAC Cervantes camp site. With a perfect beach front location, we ended our first day with a cold beer, sat on the beach as the sun slowly set on a great first day of the long road trip ahead.

Sunday – Day 2 – Cervantes to Kalbarri (378kms)

After a simple breakfast of Weetbix and a strong coffee, we were back on the road. A short time later we pulled into Jurien Bay (population 1761). Another little town that hugs the coast. We had a walk along the new jetty, completed in 2011 to replace the old jetty that was destroyed in the storms of 2003.

Leaving Jurien Bay, en route to Kalbarri, we drove past Pink Lake in Port Gregory. We had been hoodwinked into visiting a “pink” lake previously, in Esperance. That particular lake had not been pink for a long time, if at all. This was very different. Spotting the bright pink water through the bush we pulled over, following the lead of some other travellers and took a few pictures.

Some four hours after leaving Cervantes I was spotting as Victoria backed up the motorhome on the Murchison River Camp Site. A site that sits right on the Murchison river, with views across to the ocean. After plugging the van into the power, the first order of business was to get a cold pint and our thirst was slaked at the Kalbarri Hotel. A pub typical of small Australian towns. A front bar with a great choice of cold beers and a back “bistro” selling everything from “gourmet pizza”, to steak, seafood, and even a selection of Asian cuisine. These small towns must have a disproportionately high number of quality chefs. 

Dinner for us was at Finlay’s Fish restaurant. Thankfully, Victoria had the foresight to book ahead as we were greeted with a hand drawn sign at the door telling new arrivals that they were “fully booked” for the evening. Rustic and down to earth, Finlay’s is a fully outdoor restaurant. I use the term restaurant lightly as country pub is more the vibe. Live music rocking you through the Sunday Session and an “order yourself at the bar” kind of service.

And what would you eat being this close to the ocean? The fish and chips were quite possibly the largest I have ever seen. I had the fish basket which included some of the same battered fish, but also some giant prawns and calamari. With a bottle of Larrikin Chenin Blanc from Margaret River, we had a very good evening.

Monday – Day 3 – Kalbarri

A good sleep, breakfast, and coffee, and we were soon on the 30 minute drive to the new Kalbarri Skywalk, opened in 2020. The park entry fee is $15 (what did I tell you?) and on paying I was advised to drink lots of water as “it is expected to get up to 50 degrees out there today.” What we weren’t warned about, but soon learned, was how many flies there would be, and how insistent they would be that they set up home in your ears and nostrils. The cheap fly nets we had purchased some weeks earlier were a god send.

The new Skywalk comprises of two platforms that jut out imperiously across the gorge. Looking down upon what has taken millions of years to create is quite a humbling experience. Reminding us how short our visit on this earth is. No road trip from Perth to Exmouth would be complete without a visit here.

For those walkers amongst you there is “The Loop”. A walk that you must start before 7am due to the heat, and you have to carry at least 4 litres of water each. People have sadly perished on this hike so it is to be taken very seriously.

A  5 minute drive from the Skywalk car park is the entry point for “Nature’s Window”. Walking the 800 or so metres, down a fairly precarious path, I can only imagine the line of “instagrammers” had we been living in a COVID free world. This is the kind of sight I have seen people queue a long time for, just for their chance to get the perfect shot for the ‘gram. Today, we were able to walk down and plonk ourselves right in the window for the perfect shot. 

Back at the campsite, sitting under the awning of the van, we had a simple lunch of pasta and wine. With the warm breeze, the sounds of birds all around, and the ocean lapping the shore not far from here, life couldn’t get much better.

Tuesday – Day 4 – Kalbarri to Carnarvon (448kms)

Tuesday started with the pelican feeding on the Kalbarri foreshore. The pelicans have been coming to this spot since the 1970s when a local fisherman used to throw his leftover catch to the waiting birds. As if they all synchronised their watches, the pelicans waddle over at bang on 8.45am each day.

Following a short, very interesting talk about the pelicans by one of the volunteers, who knew they had hollow bones and could fly for 24 hours, they were rewarded with small fish, thrown by an eager line of children.

Our destination today was Carnarvon. A very long drive, on very long straight roads, was broken up with a stop at the famed Billabong roadhouse, taking advantage of some of the cheapest diesel we had seen, $1.17 per litre. Also, I must confess that I have a thing for roadhouses. Maybe gleaned from my very first backpacking trip when I traversed the country on the long distance Greyhound buses that pulled into roadhouses at some ungodly hour. Whatever time of the morning it was I always found myself hungry and hankering after a meat pie. Not much has changed, but it was a bacon and egg roll this time. 

My love of roadhouses is not shared by Victoria, so once both the van and I were refuelled, we were back on the road to Carnarvon. 

Sometimes, you just need the simple things in life. Woolworths, a bottle shop, and a big banana. Thankfully, Carnarvon had each of these, as it didn’t have much else. Described as the fruit bowl of Australia, it is a sadly uninspiring town.

Using the town simply as a place to break up two long travel days, we stayed at the Winter Sun Caravan Park. A large site but relatively empty, we pitched and spent a relaxing day reading and sharing a cold bottle of wine.

Wednesday – Day 5 – Carnarvon to Exmouth (365kms)

The best way to start the day on a road trip? A homemade bacon, sausage and egg butty. Delicious. A couple of coffees and we were on our way. A fairly short drive today, just 3 and a half hours. Refuelling in Carnarvon, at $1.27 a litre, we drove to Exmouth in one shot, apart from switching drivers.

When I travel and finally arrive somewhere, places never look how I imagined them. First impressions are a big thing, and sometimes, like Kalbarri, I am immediately charmed. More often, I feel like I felt on arrival in Exmouth. An undercurrent of disappointment after looking forward to being here for so long. 

I envisioned a small, bustling town. Somewhere nestled amongst would be the RAC Exmouth campground. Exmouth is on a peninsular with the town side on the east. This does protect the town from the worst of the wind that rattles towns up and down the west coast. The camp site had been impressively upgraded in recent times. A brand new, large camp kitchen and a lagoon style swimming pool. I can imagine that it will be even better in a few years when the newly planted trees have grown large enough to provide some shade from the unrelenting Exmouth sun.

In the absence of trees we decided our best option for shade would be the Froth Brewery. A great choice as it turns out. A short 10 minute walk from the campsite, albeit in intense tropical heat, we were soon sat with one of the many craft beers brewed onsite, swiftly followed by a tasting paddle each. Lunch at Froth was Spanish mackerel and chips. Mine beer battered, Victoria’s grilled. Both delicious. 

The afternoon heat saw us taking a swim in the new pool on the campsite. This was going well, until someone’s mother turned up, complaining that someone had deposited a turd in the pool. With thoughts of the water that had gone into my mouth as I had been swimming, we beat a hasty retreat.

Pushing thoughts of turd infested swimming pools aside, in the evening we headed to Adrift Cafe. Such is the power of Instagram, despite being over 13 hours drive from home, I already felt I had been to Adrift. I had been following their posts for a while and was looking forward to trying it out for ourselves.

Sharing a few entrees, we had the tempura battered prawns, the calamari with a nam jim sauce, and a bruschetta. A bottle of Pinot Grigio and lemon meringue for dessert completed a great evening.

Thursday – Day 6 – Exmouth (124kms)

After breakfast in the van we drove the 45 minutes to Turquoise Bay, paying $15 to enter the National Park (sound familiar?). As you would expect on Ningaloo Reef, the snorkelling was excellent but despite spying a turtles head popping up for air we were unable to locate her in the water.

Lunch was on the beach, Victoria popping back to the van to make us a picnic of a ham and cheese sandwich. Simple pleasures. Simple life. Very enjoyable.

In the evening we called at Whalebone Brewery, a short walk from the RAC Exmouth camp site. On the way there Victoria made me smile by saying, “I hope they have aircon”. When we got there she discovered it was just a large converted shed with nothing but outdoor seating areas, some of which were thankfully in the shade. 

A very rustic place, but again so very enjoyable. We each had a couple of very cold beers. I tried an excellent NEIPA and a pale ale. Victoria quaffed a couple of the Lighthouse Lagers.

A short walk from Whalebone and we were at Whalers for my much anticipated birthday dinner. And what a success it was. A lovely outdoor restaurant, part of a resort, serving great food. Chilli mussels were followed by an excellent seafood spaghetti. Delicious. 

Victoria had scallops to start and “reef and beef” for main, enjoying them both. Having started the meal with a glass of bubbles we soon moved onto a bottle of Riesling. 

An amazing evening was put to bed with the last of the whisky I had brought from Perth in my hip flask. I drifted off to sleep wondering how Santa would get into the van in the night, and what he might leave for us.

Friday – Day 7 – Exmouth (Xmas Day)

Celebrating my birthday somewhere new has almost become a tradition. And with it comes the happy ritual of Victoria cooking up an excellent bacon, egg, and mushroom butty for breakfast. Who knew good black pudding would be so hard to come by in Australia?

Following happy video calls with family, and after opening a couple of birthday presents, we had another ritual to complete. The “beer on the beach” picture we always take on Xmas day.

For this we drove to Bundegi beach, a long stretch of sparsely populated sand. Hats on, Emu Export at the ready, and smile! Emus are obviously a thing in Exmouth and they became a common sight for us around town. There was even a family that casually strolled through the camp site each day.

Knowing all would be closed on Xmas day we had stocked up and had plenty of food and drink for us to while away a pleasant day. Grazing on food. Drinking cold beers. And cooling down with dips in the, newly cleaned, pool.

After a dinner of steak and halloumi cooked on the camp BBQ, I had my new birthday whisky to enjoy. A customary nightcap preceded an early night, ending a perfect birthday.

Saturday – Day 8 – Exmouth to Coral Bay (153kms)

An early start, and a quick refuel of the van and we were back on the road for the one and half hour drive to Coral Bay. Sadly, we were now on the return journey, heading back south.

On arrival, I was immediately charmed. Coral Bay is the kind of place you dream about. The kind of place that lots of places were like before becoming “discovered”. A single road in and out, passing the one pub as you slowly make your way into a coastal settlement with a population of 207. Yes, 207. I must have met most of them through daily visits to the bottle shop, bakery and small supermarket that make up the “town”.

Coral Bay is what I expected Exmouth to be, but wasn’t. Despite hearing from people how great Exmouth was, Coral Bay is the place we would definitely return to.

A wide, pristine beach slowly meets the sea that has colours that have to be seen to be believed. Even more impressive than Turquoise Bay. We spent the afternoon snorkelling. Walking in from the beach, side stepping the sting rays lazily resting in the shallow waters, we were immediately immersed in a living aquarium. As the sandbank falls away, and pockets of both cold and warm water wash over you, you are immediately snorkelling over the nearby coral, with an abundance of marine life. 

Sunday – Day 9 – Coral Bay

After a simple breakfast of Weetbix and coffee at the van, we had another day in the water. Choosing to snorkel in a different location on the beach we found more coral, and even more fish. The GoPro performs very well in the water but a lot of the photos do not capture the majesty, and colour of everything you see under the water.

Being by the seaside means fish for lunch. At Fin’s cafe I had an excellent battered snapper burger and Victoria had battered snapper and chips. As Fin’s is BYO we took a couple of cold beers from the van. Simple and heavenly.

With an early start on the road in the morning we enjoyed another glorious sunset, had a BBQ on the camp for dinner, complemented with a few glasses of Riesling. Over my whisky nightcap, Limeburners Peated Cask, I contemplated what a great couple of days we had in a paradise called Coral Bay.

Monday – Day 10 – Coral Bay to Shark Bay (Denham) (556kms)

Up and off for 7.15am, refuelling and getting the 6 hour plus drive underway. Victoria started the day as skipper as I finished my second coffee of the morning. After a couple of hours we switched drivers, refuelling at the BP service station in Carnarvon, not far from the camp site we stayed on not too many days earlier.

A final switch of driver just 90kms from our home for the night, saw Victoria driving us into Denham, population 754. A small, cute, seaside town, right on the seafront. The campsite was in a great location, as was our pitch, even if the van seemed a little too big for where they put us. It could be fun driving in and out, amongst all the tents and utes parked around us.

With our tummies telling us we needed lunch, we took ourselves off to the Waterfront Hotel, securing a couple of well needed cold beers. We would need to make alternative arrangements for lunch as we had missed the kitchen by 6 minutes, getting there at 2.36pm. A packet of Nobby’s nuts and a ham and beetroot wrap (minus ham) from the service station next door had to suffice.

The evening saw us with cold beer, a takeaway pizza and a prime spot on the beach for the sunset. We sadly contemplated how close we were to the end of a great trip, but talked about things that we were grateful for. We have a daily gratitude practice and even reflecting on things that may seem insignificant helps with our overall well being. 

Tuesday – Day 11 – Denham (50kms)

If you have heard of Shark Bay, you will have heard of Monkey Mia. We woke early with a sense of anticipation, driving the 25 minutes to Monkey Mia National Park, ($15 EACH this time), for the dolphin experience. Along with over 200 others we were there for the first feeding at 7.45am.

There we were, quietly hoping for a morning of oohing and ahhing over lots of frisky dolphins. Then, we waited. And waited. And waited some more. At 10.30am, with no dolphins in sight we called it a day and headed back into Denham.

Whilst at Monkey Mia we discovered that the dolphins had been rather elusive recently, with only one turning up the day before, and a run of 3 days without any being spotted.

I am not sure how they calculate the 99% success rate of dolphin “attendance”.

The evening made up for the disappointment, with a fabulous dinner at The Old Pearler restaurant. Of the places you eat on your road trip from Perth to Exmouth, this is a must visit. The only restaurant in the world made from coquina shell, it also has an interesting booking policy. No website. No booking app. Just Wayne’s phone number that you have to call and see if he has room for you. We even saw a lot of people speculatively walk in and ask for a booking on future nights. 

“Call Wayne”, was the stock response for everyone.

Thankfully, Victoria had called Wayne the day before and we had a great evening of seafood and BYO cold wine from the bottle shop conveniently located just across the street.

As Wayne came out to help clear some of the tables in the small restaurant he was asked, “do you make everything yourself, Wayne?”

“I do,” he proudly replied.

“Do you?”, said the daughter. “I thought you bought the cheesecake.”

Wednesday – Day 12 – Denham to Geraldton (420kms)

Our penultimate day of holiday, and one that we knew wouldn’t hit the heights of the ones that had gone before. Nothing against Geraldton, I am sure it has a lot to offer, but we were just using it as a stop over to break the long journey back to Perth up.

Heading out of Denham we made a very short detour to Hamelin Bay, home of the stromatolites. The oldest fossils in the world, dating back some 3.5 billion years, Hamelin Bay is one of only two places in the world to see these living marine fossils. I would recommend a visit as you are in the area.

We were soon back on the road and when we finally got to Geraldton, it wasn’t just the van that needed refuelling. Walking through the heart of Geraldton we came across Cafe Fleur, and had a fabulous lunch.

Our home for the night was the Double Beach camp site, slightly out of town, in Cape Burney.

Thursday – Day 13 – Geraldton to Perth (420kms)

After a breakfast of a muffin, hash brown and a strong coffee we were on the road for the final time. 

Our drive was just over 4 and half hours, and by lunchtime we were back at Apollo Motorhomes near Perth airport. It certainly was strange being back amongst city traffic. For long stretches of time over the last 2 weeks there was no one ahead of us, or behind us on long, dusty stretches of road. On the wide, often empty stretches of road up north, you often forget how big the motorhome is.

With a tinge of melancholy we bid farewell to Bessie and promised we would be back in the future to take her on another long road trip.

The almost, but not quite year

Let’s just get the obvious out of the way. 2020 was not the year we all had planned. Not the year any of us could have predicted. And definitely not the year the world wanted, or needed.

A global pandemic. People’s lives turned upside down. Life plans decimated. Large parts of the world having to suffer through tough lockdown periods. It was unprecedented, the amount of times the word “unprecedented” was rolled out. 

But how else to describe the year that was 2020? It truly was an annus horribilis.

And yet…

Gratitude and Positivity

I hear a lot of tales of positivity as people reflected on the year. People learned to slow down a little. Had time to reconnect with loved ones. Started to appreciate the simple things in life. Walks in nature. Home cooking. I mastered home made scones! Less time commuting to work. For some people, in parts of the world, the commute stopped completely. Work from home became a full time occupation.  Dare I say it, the new normal.

Ironically, this brought unexpected consequences. It turns out that people used the commute time to read. Listen to podcasts. Think. It gave a lot of people that elusive white space so often missing in our busy lives.

Suddenly, this time, our time, was lost. The new commute was from the bedroom to the living room. We had no transition from home to office. The home was the office. Many people found themselves working longer. Pausing less. Becoming more sedentary. Missing their old nemesis, the commute, something I wrote about.

Starting 2020 with a sense of optimism

But this was all to come. At the start of the year nobody had any inclination of what was ahead. We started 2020 in Mudgee, New South Wales. A quiet weekend in wine country, looking ahead to what was to be an exciting year. Using the first three months of the year to finalise our plans to sell what we could of our possessions, and pack up the rest, and leave Sydney. Embarking on a long term sojourn across the globe.

A plan that was a couple of years in the making, it was suddenly almost upon us. We had talked about which was the best week to resign from our jobs. When to give the notice on our rental apartment. And when to book our first flight into Asia.

As we neared the end of March, we had resigned, and said our goodbyes. We packed up the apartment and moved all our possessions into storage. And we were homeless, staying in a hotel when we found out that Australia was closing the international borders. Like dominoes, other countries followed suit, and suddenly our world became very small.

With no jobs, nowhere to live, and only a backpack, we made a snap decision. I pulled out my phone and booked a couple of seats on a plane leaving for Perth the day after. We were moving to Western Australia (WA), arriving only 2 days before WA closed all the internal borders, effectively creating an island within an island.

Moving to Perth in a pandemic

This proved to be one of the best decisions we have ever made. At the time of writing, WA has not had a locally transmitted case of COVID for over 9 months. Life, fortunately, has carried on largely as normal. In the first couple of weeks after we arrived, whilst bouncing around Air BnBs, we could only get takeaway food and drinks. 

But not long after, life returned, and for the best part of the year we have been enjoying a life not seen much outside of WA. For those not familiar with the size of West Australia, it is 975,000 square miles, with a population of only 2.6 million. That is a lot of space to explore. Not difficult to social distance.

And we have taken as much advantage as we possibly can, exploring lots of this beautiful part of the world. On our doorstep we have the wine country of Swan Valley and the Perth Hills, visiting both. A little under 3 hours away we have the magnificent Margaret River region, where we have already spent numerous long weekends, trying to get around as many of the 200+ vineyards as possible. And we have had staycations in Perth, the vibrant port city of Fremantle, and the beautiful Rottnest Island.

How to be productive in a pandemic

In the early days of our arrival in Perth I naively thought that we would sit out the virus, and be heading off overseas within a couple of months. I filled this time productively, studying for my WSET (Wine and Spirits Education Trust) Level 1 qualification, and also becoming an accredited mental health first aider (MHFA). Very different, but both very fascinating subjects to learn more about.

When I took my head out of the sand, I realised that we were not travelling anywhere anytime soon, and reluctantly found myself a full time job. This provided another example of the best in people. How people rally around and help. There were numerous people, many who didn’t know me, happy to get on the phone with me as I searched for a new role in Perth. I am thankful to each and every one of them for their kindness, help, and support through a difficult time.

The outcome was that I got a 6 month contract. And I was lucky enough to get a renewal for this just before xmas which means that I now have work through to June of this year. Beyond that? I daren’t plan, as the world has shown us about the “best laid plans”, and all that. What does give me hope is the news this week that Qantas have resumed selling international flights from July 1. Definite green shoots that give me cause for optimism,

Both our jobs started out with working from home, but as normality returned, the offices reopened and now we have a happy hybrid of splitting our work week between home and the city. An arrangement that really suits how I like to work.

When a house becomes a home

With work came the need for somewhere longer term to live, and after 6 months in an apartment in East Perth, we found a perfect little cottage in a suburb called Mt Hawthorn. A suburb that is very reminiscent of where we lived in Sydney, which was Mosman. Streets lined with old style cottages. Many bars, cafes (with great coffee) and restaurants. And only 10 minutes into the city for work. We definitely landed on our feet.

For the first time in over a decade I live in a house. We have an actual front door and both a front and back garden. Having always wanted a couple of Adirondack chairs, they now sit pride of place in the back garden, close enough to the BBQ so I can quickly flip my steaks when needed. A small table between the two chairs completes this idyllic picture, holding our glasses of wine. A covered patio area is where our new bicycles live. 

And we finally transported all our belongings from storage in Sydney, bringing to an end the “living out of a backpack” phase of our Perth adventure.

Perth is very bike friendly, being largely flat, and having a great network of bike paths. Weekends we can head off towards the Swan River with a picnic of egg mayonnaise sandwiches, a couple of pork pies, and a bottle of wine. Does life get any better than that?

So, whilst we have all lived through a crazy year, we have been very fortunate to have spent it here in WA.

Even in crazy years, where events are not what we expected, a lot of the time it is how we respond to the events. As the saying goes, “when life gives you lemons.”

Reflecting on what I hoped for in 2020

I started the year, fully expecting to be a full time nomad, embracing my love of travel writing. I set a lofty ambition to get at least one travel article published. With overseas travel off the cards, I switched my focus to get at least one piece of writing published. 

And I was very pleased to win second prize in a freelance writing contest, with a short story about the future of work. I won $350, which was beyond anything I expected. This gave me great confidence in my writing and as we enter 2021, my focus switches back to getting a travel article published. 

On the professional front, I finally got my coaching journey started. September saw me joining a great bunch of leaders from across Asia as we embarked on a virtual 3 day training course by the Institute of Executive Coaching and Leadership. With the follow on activities completed, and a successful assignment, I became a certified coach at the start of November. I enjoy this work so much that I have already enrolled in Level 2, starting in March.

Our regular pilates and yoga practice has taken a back seat since we relocated to Perth. With everything that has been going on we just haven’t got around to joining a new studio. Typical of the world we now live in, I have been checking out virtual alternatives. I would love to hear of any recommendations that you have. Of the ones I have looked at so far, “Glo” seems to get the best reviews. Are there any others that you recommend?

Daring to look ahead to 2021

I am not one for making new year’s resolutions, but do look ahead to the year and consider both what changes I want to make, and what I would like to achieve. And as with every year, I start this one wanting to shed a little of the xmas weight. We have just had an epic 2 week road trip up the west coast of Australia, and I ate and drank everything in sight. The body will get a shock as I lock the booze cabinet, hide the chocolates, and get back on the treadmill.

This year I also hope that we can finally fly overseas and start our travelling. We are not making any plans for this, at the moment, other than continuing to save money. I have a natural reflection point as my current work contract expires in June. This will give the opportunity to assess the state of the world, the success of the various vaccines, and the likelihood of us being able to travel through countries without being quarantined anywhere.

Last, but certainly not least, this is the year I leave my 40s and enter my 50s. Quite a milestone, I am sure you will agree. And for a few years I have been putting some pennies aside for the big occasion. The “plan” is to travel on the Eastern & Oriental Express. 3 days of luxury, travelling the rails between Singapore and Bangkok. With all the Belmond Orient Express journeys currently paused, it is hard to say when this will happen. But I remain committed to it being a “when”, and not an “if”.

Putting the spectre of 2020 behind us, what are you hoping for in 2021?

Well, definitely not for us. It was not the year we had planned, and saved for, but it was still a great year. In the midst of a global pandemic we moved states, flying 3 time zones away and settling on the West Coast of Australia, in Perth.

We had a lot of opportunity to explore West Australia as the state effectively became an island within an island, with the hard closure of the state border.

And with new jobs, and a place to live, we managed to keep the show on the road, all the while being able to continue saving for our future travels.

All in, plenty to share, so keep an eye on your inbox in the coming days as a I share a full blog post on our 2020 adventures!