Getting there
Negotiating the crowds is half the battle. I’m not sure what it is about airports that turns people into different creatures, but at times that morning I felt as though we had started our holiday early. Announcements that set off mass migrations from the watering holes, leaving unfinished pints to dash to the departure gates. We were leaving mere mortals behind and were off in search of bigger fish. Well, not literally. We were staying on dry land, off in search of the big 5 in South Africa.
From Johannesburg airport, our destination that first morning was to Timbavati, which neighbours the more well known Kruger National Park. A 1 hour flight into Eastgate Airport, in Hoedspruit, we were headed on our very first safari. At least I hoped we were. Whilst at Jo’Burg airport one of the security staff asked me exactly where Hoedspruit was. I started to worry I had booked a flight to some obscure South African town with little hope of spotting any animals. I needn’t have worried.
Home for the next 3 nights was to be the Tanda Tula ( https://www.tandatula.com/ )safari camp in the Timbavati game reserve. I say “camp”, but this was unlike any camping I had previously done in the Yorkshire Dales. No sleeping on mats on the floor. Brewing up coffee on a camping stove that you struggle to balance on the uneven grass. No. This was very different. Tanda Tula has 12 luxury tents set around a pool that overlooks a watering hole. Each tent comprised of very comfortable king size bed, large bath, double sink and outside shower. Showering in the open air, under the watchful gaze of the local monkey population, I thought “this is the epitomy of glamping.”
Getting to Timbavati
We had flown into Johannesburg direct from Sydney, and decided to sleep off the 14 hour flight with an overnight stop at the City Lodge hotel, located right in Jo’Burg airport. This allowed us to wake refreshed and ready to start our holiday. Thankfully, we had a good breakfast in the hotel that morning as the apple danish offered on the plane could have sunk a battleship. Or perhaps have been used as a weapon. We had wheels down just before 11am in quite possibly the smallest airport I have ever visited. In the absence of a conveyor belt we had some airport staff lugging our luggage off the tractor for us.
An air conditioned mini-van, rather than a tractor, conveyed us to the Tanda Tula camp. Our driver must have smiled at our over exuberance as we kept asking him to stop so we could take pictures of the glimpses of giraffes and elephants we were getting. Three days later we got to the point of telling our guide “drive on, they are just elephants”. Our first search for the big 5 in South Africa was going well. In fairness to us, and to explain our apparent ambivalence, we were searching our first rhino at the time. That first drive to the camp was also when we got our initial sightings of the fast food of the bush. Impalas are so named for the very distinctive markings on their behinds that look much like a large “M”, as seen on golden arches across the world. I was to discover just how good barbecued impala tastes some days later.
The Game Drives
But before food, day 2 started with the 5.00am wake up call. The morning game drives set off from camp at 5.30am, and we were woken with a tray of coffee and tea 30 minutes prior each day. We had been warned to close our tent once we had our coffee due to the errant monkeys. I must have forgotten to secure it properly and got the shock of my life when brushing my teeth and I saw a monkey behind me inside our tent. On our bed. Had I been a moment longer I think he may have poured himself a cup of coffee. They really were that bold. Future mornings saw me securing all three zips of the tent into the supplied carabiner.
Tent safely shut up, we headed out to meet our guide, and driver, Scotch. Patrick, our tracker was perched at the front. The sun was already up as we joined two other couples and the six of us boarded our open green Land Rover. I wasn’t sure whether to be worried, or comforted by the rifle Scotch was carrying with him. I felt a lot better when he told me he has never had to fire it whilst out on a game drive.
That very first game drive will live with me for a very long time. I had no idea how many animals we would see each day. I was blown away by what we did see. Timbavati is an open game reserve, which means that there are no fences. The animals really can go wherever they like, meaning there are no guarantees on what you will see. If I told you that we saw our first leopard, up a tree with an impala kill, buffalo, zebras, elephants, vultures, and lots of other smaller creatures, would you be as impressed as I was? I was lost for words. Not knowing what to expect coming into this trip, all my expectations had already been exceeded.
Breakfast fit for a king
All this and we still hadn’t had our bush breakfast, which was served after each morning game drive. Cooked and served at tables located in a dry river bed, there was some special kind of magic happening in the open kitchen. Open bbqs held skillets of sizzling bacon, crispy morsels of lamb ribs, creamy scrambled eggs, hash browns, tomatoes, and toast. And this was just for starters. Imagine how happy I was when I discovered the bottle of HP sauce. Freshly brewed coffee, flaky croissants, and fresh fruit completed the feast. Washed down with a sparkling wine I was starting to think the 3 days we had booked would be woefully inadequate.
Feast over, we hopped back in the Land Rover and were transported back to camp to relax. The afternoon game drive was at 4pm each day so before then we had free time to chill out around the camp. Maybe take a dip in the pool. Take advantage of the all inclusive package. Each tent was stocked to bursting with wines, beers and spirits. I quickly discovered Amarula, the Bailey’s of Africa. All I needed now was a nap. But wait, what were those drums I could hear across the camp? Is it 1.30pm already? My belly groaned as it realised it was now lunchtime. Chef Kuni proudly laid out a “light” lunch spread which was enough to feed way more than the 12 or so guests I had seen so far in camp. I couldn’t get out of my chair once I had finished. At least there was no more until, oh wait, until 3.30pm when we have afternoon coffee and cakes before the 4pm drive. The button on my shorts popped off as I waddled back to the tent.
With a new pair of shorts on we headed out at 4pm and had an equally impressive number of sightings on the afternoon game drive. The drive was punctuated by sundowner drinks out in the bush. It now made sense why I was asked earlier what drink I wanted for sunset. They were all stored in the jeep and brought out for us all to enjoy as the sun set on another glorious day. I have been overwhelmed by the amount of animals that we have been seeing. Truly blessed to have witnessed so much wildlife in their natural habitat.
Dinner is served
Back at camp for around 7.30pm we had time for more drinks before dinner and on the menu tonight was gin. Lots of gin. We had a couple of distillers from Jo’Burg at the camp searching the bush for new botanicals for a range of gins they were developing. This evening they had brought along many bottles of their current range and we all had much fun sampling them. The early start, the long day, and now copious amounts of gin had resulted in me building up quite an appetite. Head Chef Kuni really came into his own serving us a restaurant quality 3 course meal, with as much South African wine as you could drink. Quite literally. Knowing that I had a 5am wake up call, and a possible fight with some monkeys, I figured I’d had enough gin and wine for one evening and decided to retire to bed. Tanda Tula is an open camp which meant we had to get an escort back to our tent in the dark. I initially thought this was a bit over the top until I heard about the lion prints spotted the day after.
And just like that, as so often happens on great holidays, the days had started to find their natural rhythm. Game drive. Eat. Drink. Eat. Game drive. Eat. Drink. Sleep. Repeat.
The reason we were here
Day 3 brought a special birthday to celebrate. I would never reveal a lady’s age but suffice to say we had a great day and celebrated at every opportunity. It was also on Friday that we finally completed our “big 5” with the spotting of a number of rhinos. The trip truly was complete. And in a special touch for our last evening, Tanda Tula had arranged for champagne at sunset for all 6 of us in our group. Each couple had a milestone to celebrate and Scotch did all he could to get us back in time to see the sunset. The amount of leopards we kept bumping into on our way seriously hampered our ability to see the setting sun.
Reflections of a great holiday
My first safari ticked every single box. Amazing location. Luxurious accommodation. First class service. Top quality food. And the only person I would want to share it with. The next order of business? Booking a return visit.
