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What has been happening in the world of Mr and Mrs C? You may have read that after 64 weeks we finally escaped Western Australia for a holiday. The original plan was to visit Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road. Replacing the trip that got cancelled back in March 2020. The trip that was to kick start our world travels. We know how that worked out.

Best laid plans, and all that

We planned to finally do the trip, had the accommodation and flights booked and along came Delta. And again, the trip was binned. Looking at the state of the internal borders in Australia, and places we could travel to and return to fortress WA from without quarantining, our options were few.

And so we found ourselves doing a road trip around the very beautiful Tasmania. Something I would highly recommend. Thankfully we were allowed to enter Tasmania, and return to Perth without quarantine at either end. Something of a luxury in Australia at the moment. Tasmania exceeded all our expectations. We had been to Hobart previously, and this time we had a car and really explored this beautiful small island.

Will we escape from Australia?

The holiday blues were somewhat ameliorated by hearing that airlines will recommence international flights out of Australia by the end of the year. The Australian government has committed to a plan to have borders open once we reach 80% double dose of the COVID vaccination. This is slated to be November. This is every State Premier except one. Ours. McGowan is refusing to budge and wants to keep Perth in its little bubble. 

This will not deter us as we now start seriously considering when to finally start our overseas travel. If the international borders within Perth remain closed through the start of 2022 we will road trip to Adelaide, perhaps FINALLY doing the Great Ocean Road trip, and then fly out to Asia from Melbourne.

On the move again

In news that was rather less exciting for us, and rather a blow, we got notice that our landlords were returning to Perth and decided they wanted to move back into the house we had blissfully rented for a year. Knowing how horrendous the Perth rental market is we were not relishing trying to find somewhere new to live. Thankfully, our existing agents found an apartment on the same road and we have recently moved ourselves there. Literally, we moved ourselves. A few trips in a car. A few more in a ute and we are in. 

The week we moved turned into a bit of a nightmare. Last year, thinking we were only around in Perth for a short while, we chose to rent a washing machine rather than buy one. Day 2 of the recent move saw us having the rental company move the washing machine from the old house to the new apartment. The evening of day 2 saw us returning after a walk to find the apartment under water. Literally under water. With more of it gushing out of the tap that was supposed to be connected to the washing machine. The pipe had not been correctly fitted and had come off whilst we were out. We did not even have a wash running. Cue me furiously trying to bail the water out whilst we waited for the emergency tradesman to turn up.

Getting back to normal

Two weeks later. After many carpet blowers blowing. A weekend in a hotel to avoid the noise and smell of wet carpets. And a complete refit of the underlay through the whole apartment and we seem to be back on an even keel. Hopefully all the dramas are now behind us and we can see out the remaining 5 months of our lease in relative peace. Once this lease is up, who knows what will happen. Vaccination rates continue to climb, both here and internationally. Countries are starting to open up for travel again. And even Fortress Australia looks to be rejoining the world.

Daring to dream

Some two years after leaving our home in Sydney to travel the world on an extended sabbatical, the dream may finally be coming true. And as was the “plan” two years ago, we will have no real itinerary. We plan to head to Singapore first and then spend a few months exploring south east Asia. At some point we will head to the vineyards of Europe and the islands of the Mediterranean before heading to the UK for a long overdue catch up with family and friends. Life is too short to be away from our loved ones for so long. 

But, before we get ahead of ourselves, we first have a few action packed months. A birthday each to celebrate in November and December. Another Perth summer to enjoy. A couple of trips to our beloved Margaret Riverwine region and a holiday to another of my happy places, Hamilton Island in Queensland. 

All of course, subject to this pesky virus.

Closing a chapter in Perth

This week saw us both close the chapter on our Perth careers. Victoria, a couple of days ahead of me, aligned to the one year anniversary of her starting her contract. I think she has earned the nickname “ping pong pom” as she seems to keep leaving that big yellow bank, and then returning. My stint at Synergy was almost two years. I remember those early days in Perth, job hunting. In a world that was finding its feet due to the new coronavirus pandemic, job opportunities were few and far between. I knew the work I didn’t want to do, but would I have a choice? That said, it was the job that nearly wasn’t. 

The hiring manager thought my CV did not show enough experience for the advertised scrum master role. Despite the previous three years showing me holding roles in Sydney that entailed me training, coaching, and mentoring scrum masters. Thankfully, the recruiter, thanks George, persisted, and got me an interview with people who actually knew what they were doing, thanks Pete and Mike, and the rest is history.

Reflecting on our time in Perth

I never imagined we would be in Perth some two years later, and this is testament to how beautiful the state of Western Australia is, and also how great the people are working within the walls of the company that is literally keeping the lights on for WA. And through the people I also got a better understanding of what it means to be a WAer. I learned that a guernsey is not an island near the UK. That bush chook, Emu Export. is a drink. Walpole is a place to camp. And that the men running around in 1970s sports vests and shorts are actually playing a sport that the world has never heard of, but is taken rather seriously all the same.

Have I mentioned our passion for Western Australian wine?

What is taken seriously in WA is the wine. And for such a small wine region, that is relatively modern, over 25% of Australia’s premium wine is produced here in the Margaret River region. When Tom Cullity planted his first vines in 1967, calling the vineyard Vasse Felix, little did he know what he was starting. Now there are over 200 vineyards, many of the best in class, and we are (still) doing the best we can to get around them all. Our quest continues next week with a “last hurrah” to Margaret River, not knowing when we will return.

Time to wrap things up in Perth

It was by design that we finished work a month ahead of us leaving Australia. We knew that we would have a lot to sort in the apartment, and we didn’t want to feel rushed. The plan was to have a chilled 4 weeks before heading off. OK. That was the plan. Now we have the Margaret River trip, on the back of two nights in the Swan Valley wine region. A trip to Fremantle will follow shortly afterwards, as will a three night side trip to Melbourne. I can see that we will still be packing boxes in the days before we leave Perth, heading to Queensland in mid June.

The big 5-0. Eventually…

The Queensland trip should have happened at christmas. For my milestone birthday, and we all now know that COVID had other plans. We will finally get to spend those three nights in the lap of luxury at Qualia resort on Hamilton Island. Ending our current stay in Australia with nights in both Noosa and Brisbane. Short stops in Singapore and Dubai will precede our arrival into the UK, early July.

What is on the reading list?

I get worn out just reading this and know that I will need to plan lots of downtime in between, just to stay centred, and calm. I have just discovered float tanks, and more of that in a future blog. I know I will be doing lots of reading. Getting in the mood for our overseas travelling I am currently reading a book by the very talented Alistair McGuinness. 

Ali is a friend I met through work and I was very impressed to learn that not only has he managed to swim around Busselton Jetty, 3.6kms in open water, but he has also written five books. Or is that six? I am losing count. At the moment I am working my way through, “Wild About Africa”, daydreaming about the African plains, and the dizzy heights of Mt Kilimanjaro. Ali writes a great book. Part travelogue, part history lesson, with lots of humour thrown in. Who can imagine climbing Mt Kilimanjaro in a pair of pink tracksuit bottoms? I encourage you to go and pick up a copy and read it.

In the meantime, we have places to be, and things to do. Sabbaticals are not all about sitting around and drinking gin and tonics. Are they?

Adios, amigos!

New country, new travel experience

When we last spoke it was all about what a great time we had touring France and how we needed to keep moving. Not only to a new city, but to a new country. 

For today, we ditched the Bradshaw’s train guide and were experimenting with our first bus of the trip. Only recently have I discovered Flixbus. And within days of learning about them I started to see them everywhere. 

Today, we were on the 9.30am Flixbus from Bordeaux, across the Bidasoa river, which is the France-Spain border, and into San Sebastián. 

San Sebastian

There are places in the world I have always wanted to visit. At least, for as long as I remember. The feeling I had when I sat in front of the Lost City of the Incas at Machu Picchu was indescribable. I’d seen the vista on postcards for years and yearned to visit. 

San Sebastián was similar, for me. In the heart of the Basque country, with their fascinating language of incongruous X and Ts. There is also a strong Camino de Santiago connection. 

We stayed in a pension, which is a cheap guest house style of accommodation and we could not have asked for a better location. A short walk around the corner from the glorious playa de la concha, the famous stretch of beach that hugs the San Sebastian harbour. A 10 minute stroll had us in the old town, with its plethora of pinxtos bars. I would have loved a kettle to make my morning coffee, and a fridge to keep beer cold, but, you get what you pay for. 

Pinxtos (peen-chos)

The pinxtos bars need to be seen to be believed. Packed to the rafters. Most with nowhere to sit. The idea is you hustle at the bar, with the locals, pointing to the pinxtos that you want to go with your drink. Somehow, like magic, the bar staff know what you ordered when you finally come around to pay. Always at the end. And not when you order the drink, unless you want to stand out like the tourist you are.

On the surface, you may think that tapas is all you can get in San Sebastian. Far from it. I was surprised to learn that San Sebatian has more Michelin starred restaurants per square mile than anywhere else on the planet. 

A town with everything. Great beaches. Good walks. Amazing food and drink. And a local football team. This could be one of my new favourite parts of the world.

On the bus to Bilbao

Staying in the Basque country, our next stop was a quick bus ride along the coast, to Bilbao. For many years a forgotten city, lapsing into disrepair as old jobs disappeared, there was a lifeline 25 years ago. The city had the foresight to pay for a new Guggenheim museum to be built near the old docks. Creating a “destination attraction” in a similar way that the Opera House is in Sydney. And it worked. Dubbed the “Bilbao effect”, Frank Gehry’s masterpiece glistens on the Bilbao waterfront, attracting a steady 1 million visitors a year.

You won’t be surprised to hear that there is also a great food and drink scene in Bilbao. As we were still in the Basque region, we were eating pinxtos, and not tapas. The Basque region is one of those places that proudly holds onto its culture and heritage. Ensuring that the Basque language remains front and centre, everything is in both Basque, as the predominant language, and Spanish.

Heading to the Spanish capital

And it was into the Spanish heartland we were headed after our 5 days in the Basque region. Back on the bus, we had a 4 and half hour journey to Madrid ahead of us. We stocked up on pain au chocolats and water and we were off.

After San Sebastian and Bilbao, Madrid felt huge. A big, bustling city. We had 3 nights to adjust back to city life. And what better way to feel the pulse of a city than by attending a local football match. Saturday night saw us travelling out to the Wanda Metropolitana stadium to see Atletico Madrid take on Celta Vigo. 

I really enjoy going to football matches in overseas countries. Seeing how fans in different parts of the world celebrate their football team. The Atletico fans were vociferous. All through the match they maintained a great atmosphere. That the game ended with a 4:1 win obviously helped. 

After years of living in Australia I did find it strange that you could not buy beer inside the ground. Watching games at home in Australia we are used to getting a pint each and taking them to our seats to watch the action. Beers would come later, but not tonight. A 9pm kick off meant we were not back at the hotel until midnight. 

Our days in Madrid were spent strolling through the magnificent Retiro park, Madrid’s Central Park. Exploring the streets that sprawl off the main hubs of Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, Plaza Santa Ana, and others. Mercado de San Miguel is one of the great markets that we have found whilst on our travels through Europe. Opening its doors over 100 years ago, the market is now a gastronomic delight. Selling, overpriced, Spanish delicacies and drinks. Sating the appetite of many hungry tourists.

We are wily travellers, and so we decamped to the Museo del Jamon, where we could stand at the bar, have a jamon sandwich, and a beer, for a fraction of the cost charged in the Mercado de San Miguel. Money saved at lunch can be spent at dinner. One of the challenges of adapting to being a traveller, rather than a tourist, is constantly being aware that our travel budget has to fund months of further travel.

The Alhambra (no, not in Bradford)

And the road was calling us again. An early start had us heading to the outskirts of Madrid, to one of the huge bus stations, and we were on the way to Granada, a place that was not in our minds originally. Sketching rough places to go, we were headed for Seville, until we remembered (or were we were alerted?) to the fact that we could go via Granada and visit the Alhambra.

How glad we are we came and saw this magnificent palace. Described as “one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture”, we had a good few hours touring the palace and fortress complex. Started in 1238, many years, history, and conflict have passed and I would recommend having a read of the history. I would not do it justice here in a brief travel blog.

Granada

Granada surprised me in the way that Dijon, in France, did. I was immediately taken to the city with its narrow streets and cobbled lanes that house souk style markets. Albacin, to the north of the Alhambra still maintains much of its medieval street plan and is fun just to walk around, capturing the distinctive sights and smells.

On one such walk we stumbled across the Basilica de San Juan de Dios. Oh, my. Never has the inside of a church taken my breath away quite so much. A picture won’t do it justice but I will forever remember the moment I set eyes on it.

We also struck lucky with our accommodation, staying right in the heart of the city. Our two nights were in a new style of apartment accommodation for Spain. With a digital app on your phone that becomes the key to enter the apartment, and no physical presence, they are able to keep costs down and we had probably our cheapest stay yet.

Having a beer we were introduced to the “free tapa” system, of which Granada is the heart of. Each time you order a beer, you get a free tapa. Of the waiter’s choice. When you order a second drink, the same thing happens, only the tapa increases in quality. If you find yourself making a night of it, on the beer, you won’t need to buy dinner. A very popular choice with the city’s large student population, I’m sure.

Where the streets are lined with orange trees

Mention marmalade and many people’s minds will turn to Seville. Unfortunately, the oranges on the trees right now are more green than orange, But this does not take away from the beauty of the city. Seville was our next stop after Granada. And we were here for more than marmalade.

It would be a crime, in my opinion, to visit Spain and not indulge in churros con chocolate. I believe we found the best in Seville. Bar el Comercio starts selling piping hot churros from seven thirty in the morning. We were there a little later than that and still they were creating these hot, fluffy pieces of churros heaven. The thick chocolate to dip them in would be good as a drink all by itself.

We are going to miss Spain

Seville is a whole lot more than churros and marmalade. And we saw a lot of it. From the very impressive Plaza de Espana, to the equally impressive Real Palace de Alcazar. As with all our days in Spain, we have been blown away by the beauty this country has to offer. Friendly locals, fantastic food, I will be genuinely sad leaving. Whilst travelling through I have also had a great opportunity to brush up on my rusty Spanish language skills. Whilst very, very far from fluent, I have been pleased to get by, trying to avoid speaking English at every opportunity.

We now head into Portugal, first stop, Lisbon. I better work out how to say, “two beers, please.”

Adios, chicos.

Transitions

Transitions are difficult. In whatever sphere of life. Adjusting from one way of being, one way of living, to something very different is hard. It is a process. As humans, we usually avoid change. Our brains see it as a threat to the status quo. Our amygdala kicks in. And we resist. Try to cling to the relative safety of the “known”.

If we don’t move out of the “known”, explore new things, we don’t grow. We stagnate. And I don’t like stagnating. With this in mind, I like to throw everything up in the air and see where it lands. Chart a new course every now and again. And this is what we chose to do when packing up our lives in Australia in June last year to explore the world.

Our travel journey

Many of you came along on the journey. Reading the blogs we shared of our trials and tribulations. The amazing ups and, relatively few, downs of long term travel. You will have seen our pictures, and maybe got a sense of what we saw, and maybe how we felt. It was truly a life changing trip. It changes how you see the world. How you come to realise that we are the same. Part of one big family. Granted, a family with almost 8 billion family members.

You come to realise how arbitrary the borders are. How much of what we take for “geography” is just a social construct. Some countries we have to get visas for. Others, we just jump on a train, leaving one country, and entering another. A bus takes us from France to Spain, with no discernible demarcation of the border between the two countries. In Switzerland we could look across the river in Basel, looking into the windows of apartments on the other side, in France. Look in the other direction and you could throw a stone into Germany. Nothing but a river separating three countries. 

Arriving back in Australia

Ten months later, we flew back to Australia. A country with very strict borders. A country that forbids you to even bring in an apple, woe betide it introduces a threat to the ecosystem. And with our return, we have to re-adjust to a life where we don’t move every few days. Where we have more options of what to wear other than what we have in our backpacks. Deal with the reverse culture shock.

“How much!?”, became a common refrain as we converted the price of a pizza from Australian into Indonesian rupiah. 

The biggest shock was the price of accommodation. In a rental market that is crazy beyond crazy, we had to start out bouncing between AirBnBs. And the cost was killing us. With no money coming in, and lots going out, we needed to find a rental. Fast. This was no easy feat. For each of the four viewings we had in the first week, there were an average of 20 people showing up to view. With a viewing window of only 15 minutes, for everyone, we were like rats running around a maze. Bumping into each other as we all raced to get a good look around, and take a few photos.

Finding a home in Perth

One viewing number five, or was it six, we managed to turn up early and got to view an apartment in relative quiet. It also allowed us to use our well refined stakeholder management skills, chatting to both the owner and her partner. Showing an interest in them and not just the apartment. Asking a few questions and showing our genuine interest. This apartment was above our budget, but with our options dwindling, and with this being a great apartment, we wanted it.

A phone call whilst we were at yet another viewing brought very good news. We had secured the rental. However, as neither of us were working, our offer of paying the full six months rent up front was accepted. A large chunk of our savings gone, temporarily, but we had a home for the immediate future. A huge milestone in our “settling back into normal life” plan.

Whilst we were looking for a rental, we decided to review our priorities for settling back into Western Australia. And what came out on top was a visit to Margaret River. The wine region that we hold close to our heart, more so we got married there in 2021. We spent a great few days, hunting down new wineries, and checking out a few recent additions to the brewery scene, before heading back to Perth.

In Perth, we are now in a modern two bedroom apartment in a great suburb called Leederville. A suburb full of cafes, bars, and restaurants. And on the bus, only 15 minutes into the city. When we left Perth last year we were living just up the road in Mt Hawthorn. So we know the area very well and love it. If only we weren’t doing “dry May”. It is a killer walking past everyone enjoying a glass of full bodied red wine, or a hazy pale ale. Roll on June!

Transitioning back to work

Our life plan hit top gear when shortly afterwards, Victoria secured a full time job. Again, at the first time of asking. She has a perfect record of applying for a job, and getting it. Other people must also see how special she is. For me, I had already been back working, albeit part time. A friend runs a consultancy in Perth and I had been partnering to deliver training to some of the companies in Perth. This work is now expanding, and I will be complementing the training with some dedicated coaching and consulting for one of the clients.

My new life involves me trying to work Monday through Thursday. I am keeping Friday free to build up my private coaching practice. To that end, I had a call with a previous client in Sydney and we are having discussions in further developing our working relationship. I hope this could be the start of a new chapter and a new approach to work and life.

As I shift more in to coaching and mentoring I continue to see the benefits that are brought to others. Having a coach, holding the space for you whilst you think through a challenge. Be it professional, or personal, having a thinking partner provides immense benefits. I would love to share more, and even have a coaching conversation if anybody out there thinks they would get value from this.

Is the travel itch scratched?

If you are wondering whether travel features in our new life chapter. Yes. And I would be off again today if I had the money. In fact, if I had the money i would be on the road more than I would be at a “home base”. The experience of travel, the “grabbing life by the balls”, the making the most of every minute becomes ever more important. You never know what life is going to throw at you. When you least expect it. As a family, we have all experienced this over the last year.

Seize the day

If you have a bucket list, what is stopping you from doing the things on that list? Tomorrow might never come. Take steps today to get you closer to the things in life that you dream of. We have a short time here, and we never know when the bell is going to ring for us, telling us to come back in, our time is up. Tell those around you that you love them. Tell them every day. You don’t know when your opportunities to do this will end.

With this, I love you. I love you for reading this blog. I love you for sharing our amazing journey over the last year. And I hope you will continue to follow on as we transition back into life in Australia. 

Memento mori.

Heading from Perth to Europe in search of sun

For those of you that have seen the photos on Instagram (explore_with_fran) and Facebook, you will know by now that we have recently been on our winter (from home in Australia) holiday. Heading up to Europe in the hope of warmer climes. It turns out that we had Italy to thank for the weather. England did the usual. Called itself summer and yet it was Autumn that showed up. Thankfully, we had managed to pack for all eventualities.

The world’s shortest trip to Bali

From the outset, it was quite the adventure. And this was only day one. In a quest to save money, and we saved a packet, we started our long journey back to the UK with a flight from Perth to Bali. A Jetstar flight was a small inconvenience considering what was to follow.  Why an inconvenience? If you are Australian you will be familiar with the “no frills” airline, Jetstar. If you are in the UK, think of Ryanair or Easyjet. You get the picture.

Bali is a short hop from Perth. Even closer than a trip to Sydney. Yes, by quite some distance. But, it did feel weird to us to collect our bags at Denpasar airport, scurrying past all the taxi hawkers, “taxi, taxi?”, and back into the airport heading for Departures. Our shortest trip to Bali by quite some margin. That said, we still had to have our visa on arrival (VOA) and our customs declaration form. A bureaucratic necessity that we will also had to do 5 weeks later. Bali also now has a tourist tax, but this was something we could skip this time as we were only transiting through the airport.

The heat and smells of Bali are so familiar to us. We were there at Easter trying out a new part of the island. The humidity hits you as soon as you get off the plane. You will never know how tempted we were to jump in a Grab (Bali’s version of Uber) to Canggu and spend a blissful 5 weeks in one of Bali’s excellent villas or hotels. Alas, we will have to save this holiday for another time. Xmas, perhaps? Right then, we had places to be. And right now, sweating in the heat of Bali, we were checking into our flight to Dubai.

Living as wolves

I should explain why we were in Bali. And why we were heading to Dubai.  Flying long haul is hard work. Hard on the body. And it gets harder the older I get. Being cramped in economy is no way to fly halfway around the world. So, this being our first visit to the UK in a couple of years we decided we were going to treat ourselves to business class. This was before we saw how much the prices had escalated in just a couple of years. Eye watering.

Then, rather fortuitously, a colleague of Victoria’s mentioned that if you flew to Bali and connected to a flight there you could make a big saving. We checked. And yes, the saving was indeed huge. So huge that we dropped a chunk of our savings on return business class flights from Bali to Europe with Emirates. It was to be our first experience of their business class offering. How would it compare to my all time favourite, Qatar? I will report back in part 2 of this travel blog.

I have previously said I would rather live one day as a wolf, than one hundred days as a sheep. It was time to be wolves. And as we landed in Manchester, after a very long travel day, and jumped into the Emirates provided chauffeured car for the drive to Halifax, we were happy, if tired, wolves.

Memento mori.