Search Results for: sydney

Melbourne, Open

February 20, 2016 by Fran 2 Comments

There is a certain satisfaction in finally doing something that you have wanted for many years. All through that sultry antipodean summer in 1995, mesmerised by the bright blue courts, and the luminous furry yellow ball darting from one side to the other. Thousands of heads first looking one way, then in miraculous synchronicity, switching to the other. All appearing to say “no” with a shake of the head in a seemingly interminable slow motion.

Pete Sampras reigning supreme, as he would again in 1997. When players are so omnipotent, we think they will hold their crown for ever. But then another generation come through, and we see the likes of Agassi (4 time winner), and then Federer (4 time winner), and now the machine that is Novak Djokovic, going into the tournament holding a record of 5 Australian Open titles, and exiting it claiming his sixth, in straight sets against Andy Murray. Djok’s 11th grand slam title.

Rod Laver arena, ahead of the battles to come

Some 21 years on from that hostel in Glenelg, Adelaide, I find myself at the famed Rod Laver arena in Melbourne, first for the women’s, then one of the men’s semi finals. Finally, I am here. No more talking about what I would like to do. No more saying “one day”. One day has a nasty habit of becoming “never”, so when I saw Jetstar’s “take a mate” flight deal, effectively buy one, get one free, as soon as you could say “hidden charges”, I had booked return flights with the “budget” airline.

Melbourne is a city I had been too a few times before, and greatly enjoyed. Most of our short trip there would be consumed by the tennis, but we also planned to make the most of the free time we had. Garnering recommendations from Melbourne “ex pats” we knew, we strategically shaped our agenda around brunch spots, top coffee shops (when we could find them hidden down alleys), and some of the best small bars Melbourne had to offer.

One of Melbourne’s finest

Having not been for a few years how would it compare to home, here in Sydney? Well, that could depend on who you ask!

For people not from this neck of the woods you may not be aware that there is a certain rivalry between Melbourne and Sydney. Bordering on animosity. I’m not sure where it started, or even how real the actual rivalry is. Some they there is a rivalry between Adelaide and Melbourne, although nobody in Melbourne has ever heard of this rivalry, nor cares what anybody in small town Adelaide has to say.

Sydneysiders claim to live in the best place in Australia (maybe the world, some of them espouse), and Melburnians (from the cultural capital of Australia) beg to differ. Esteemed journalists such as Mosman based Peter FitzSimons even waded into the debate in his weekly column in the Sydney Morning Herald. Somewhat disparagingly I would say, to our friends in the state of Victoria.

Sydney is seen as a place to kick back with a cold stubbie, and enjoy the beach life, in your wife beater (vest) and thongs (flip flops). Melbourne sneer at even considering something so uncouth. Melbourne dines out, quite literally, on it’s foodie scene and sublime coffee culture. Not forgetting that the small bar revolution currently hitting Sydney in fact started in Melbourne some years ago.

Lock out laws are currently in the news (for NSW and now Queensland), a subject that deserves a blog all on its own, but it is yet another example quoted by bar flies in Melbourne of the superior approach to creating, and maintaining a world class, 24 hour city. And I would agree. Whole heartedly. There is more than one way to create a more harmonious society, and imposing curfews, and ridiculous laws around the sale of alcohol are not the most effective way.

In the whole of NSW, about 3 and a quarter times the size of the U.K., you can no longer buy a bottle of wine after 10pm. It is deemed too dangerous, and reduces the risk of you going out after your 7 course degustation dinner, and bottle of Sancerre, and clobbering somebody in the street. Apparently. And woebetide you would like a Macallan 15yr old single malt past 12am. Waaay too dangerous. This contravenes the “responsible service of alcohol laws”, and can only be bought by you if served with a mixer. I shit you not. This is the nanny state that Sydney is, no, has become.

Melbourne tried such draconian measures a few years back. And 3 months later, against massive public revolt, they were repealed. The result? Melbourne, and it’s nightlife, continues to go from strength to strength.

But I digress. This blog is not the place for politics.

How did Melbourne compare to Sydney? Very favourably in my opinion. It feels like a “real” city compared to Sydney. A city with logical layout, grid like, as seen in places like New York City. I often got the eerie feeling of a flashback to previous city breaks, all over the world. Sydney is based around so much water, the glorious Harbour, and amazing beaches, that it feels more like a holiday location than a city. This obviously isn’t a bad thing. Just very different to most major cities.

The vibrant Degraves St

The small bar scene is booming, even if it looks as though you only now need the corner of an old car park, some wooden pallets to sit on, and some large old soup containers to hold the DJ’s decks, and you have a bar that can legitimately sell $20 cocktails. Coffee has, and I feel always will be, one of Melbourne’s everlasting loves. A love that I share. And you don’t have to look too hard for damn good coffee.

Together with a progressive approach to city transport, with a tram system in place for years that Sydney can only hope to replicate the success of, which also includes a heavy emphasis on catering to cycling as a bone fide way of commuting, Melbourne has much to offer, and much to proud of.

Nothing beats rattling around the city on the free tram

I now have one eye on the Jetstar website, so I can once again revel in the wondrous laneway culture made famous by the capital of Victoria.

Adelaide – The City of Churches

October 7, 2017 by Fran Leave a Comment

Named after the wife of King William IV, Adelaide sits on the bottom coast of Australia. In the state of South Australia, some 2 hours flight from Sydney, it has the unusual quirk of being half an hour behind Sydney. Where else in the world do we get increments of 30 minutes between time zones? Just for clarity, this is rhetoric. I’m sure it happens elsewhere in the globe, I just didn’t have the time to Google it. My free 30 minutes wifi allowance was quickly running out.

If you are wondering, as I was, how the city gained the nickname “ city of churches”, it may be linked to that fact that there are over 700 of them, in a small, very compact city. Only outnumbered by pubs, it feels as though there are multiple churches on every street. Well, thinking about it, there probably are.

Europeans first settled in Adelaide in 1836 as a place for ships that were sailing around the coast of Australia to stop and replenish their stocks of food and grog. Over 200 years later it is still an excellent place to do the very same. Interestingly, Adelaide was different to Sydney, and Melbourne, in that no convicts were shipped here. It was a place for free immigrants to settle, and work.

Beautiful cottages of Adelaide

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, and the 5th most populous city in Australia. With a population of only some 1.3million. The city straddles the River Torrens, with the very impressive (now that it has had a multi million dollar facelift) Adelaide Oval on the north side, and the CBD on the other. And all across the city remain pristine examples of the architecture dating back to the first settlements. The cottages you see everywhere are very distinctive, and very Adelaide.

On the banks of the River Torrens

Our Jetstar flight from Sydney landed on time at 11.40am, after accounting for that spurious 30 minutes, and being only about 6kms from the city centre, we were in our cosy, no frills Air BnB a short time later.

Nothing much is far from anything in Adelaide, and although our accommodation was on the outskirts of the CBD (city centre for readers from the UK) we were still only a flat 20 minute walk away. The city is bounded by North Terrace and South Terrace, the latter of which is where we are staying for the 3 nights we were there.

The first thing that you notice when in Adelaide, when you come from Sydney at least, is the lack of traffic. Then you notice how wide and expansive the roads are. Set out by Colonel Light, one of Adelaide’s founding fathers, in a perfect grid pattern, there are five squares in the city centre, and a ring of parks surrounding it. This gives Adelaide a very green, leafy feel. Not something you immediately associate with cities.

Looking down the roads, east to west, you feel you can see all the way to the horizon. In the distance loom the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale. And despite the lack of traffic, people appear to not be in a rush, actually waiting for the green man. How very novel. It took some getting used to. Slowing down to this place of life. But when you do, you feel a sense of calm, and a wish that only every day could be like this.

Talking to people from Sydney you would think that Adelaide was some long forgotten backwater.

That could not be further from the truth. You may be aware I have an obsession with quality coffee. Maybe I have mentioned it in previous blogs. Or perhaps you have seen my Instagram posts. Adelaide maintains the very high standards you can rely on in Australia, and that I have become accustomed to in Sydney.

Keeping the coffee warm at Fawn cafe

The same goes for breakfast and brunch. And it is not all smashed avo and vegemite. Two highly recommended options are “Coffylosophy” on Hutt Street, and “Fawn” on nearby Gilles Street. Great food continues into the evening. I would give a nod to “The Greek” on Halifax Street, where else for a boy from Halifax?, and the many options around Leigh Street and Peel Street. I would highly recommend pre dinner drinks at “Clever Little Tailor”. Or an afternoon sharpener at “Proof”. Both great bars.

In the Barossa

I have got all this way without mentioning one of the main draws of a visit to Adelaide. The world class wineries. We took a full day trip to one of them, the Barossa Valley, with Taste the Barossa. The full day trip starts from your pick up in the city and ends approx 5pm back in the same place. The drive takes you up through hills, and into the valley, where you visit some great wineries, and have a fabulous antipasto board lunch. All in, a wonderful day.

And what is a place in Australia without a beach? Well, Adelaide has you covered on this front too, with a long, wide beach at Glenelg, which you can easily reach in less than 30 minutes, on one of the many trams trundling between the city and the beach.

Although it wasn’t beach weather the day we were there, we still had a wind blown walk along the front, before decamping to the very imposing “Grand” pub fish and chips. Some traditions just refuse to die.

Adelaide is a small city with a big personality. It has everything you need for either a visit, or for those looking to settle somewhere a little more personable than one of the bigger cities in Australia.

I’m looking forward to returning already.

The best of Mosman in one day

August 23, 2019 by Fran Leave a Comment

Is it possible to see the best of Mosman in one day? Of course it isn’t. Just like it is not possible to see the best of any great destination in one day. All you can do is try and fit as much as you can in to the short time you have to spend in a place. It is still possible to spend a perfect day in Mosman. As much as I would have loved to have spent at lot longer at The Pipe and Glass on my recent trip to England, or had even more days in the Margaret River when I was last there at Easter, life, much like the realities of work, is about ruthlessly prioritising.

The Jewel in the Crown

Often referred to as the jewel in Sydney’s crown, Mosman sits snugly within Middle Harbour, on the north shore. An enclave of independent cafes, restaurants, and boutiques (called shops in Yorkshire), with Allan Border oval hosting summer cricket matches, it is home to a large number of expatriates. It is not uncommon to hear French, mingling with the dulcet, northern tones of Yorkshire. Mosman has a lot to offer, both locals, and visitors alike. How will you spend 24 hours in this beautiful little village? What will you do to see, and experience the best of Mosman in one day?

Spend a great day in Mosman, reading at Allan Border oval. — Allan Border oval, great to place to read between innings

Rise with the sun (and the locals)

Set your alarm clock and rise early. It may feel inhumanly early, and you may think you are the only person up with the lorikeets and cockatoos chirping outside your window. Resist the snooze button. You will be surprised to see that you are in fact waking long after the early morning runners have laced up their worn sneakers and set off. And the swimmers have got their togs on and braved the temperatures of the bracing ocean.

Will you spend one day in Mosman down at beautiful Balmoral — Beautiful Balmoral Beach

If you fancy a less active start to the day, join the rest of us, just strolling along Balmoral esplanade, marvelling at the changing hues of the sky as the sun rises over Balmoral Beach. The early start, the brisk walk, and the fresh sea air may combine for you to have worked up an appetite by now. If nothing else, a dark, richly satisfying strong coffee is well overdue. As you would expect in Australia, the coffee is outstanding. Really really good. The question on my mind each day is where to pick up the first of my many daily brews. Favourites include the always excellent Cafe Mosman, and the coffee currently being brewed at The Source is amongst the best I’ve ever had.

Spend your one day in Mosman sampling the great coffee — My “usual”, a double shot latte

Breakfast

If it is breakfast you are after, then take a window seat at the Balmoral Beach House, and have one of my favourites, the baked eggs with chorizo. It smells just as delicious as it tastes. Looking out over the water, as the waves lap the shore of Middle Harbour, take a moment to breathe, and express gratitude. The proximity to such excellent beaches is just one of the myriad reasons I still call Mosman home.

Bathers Pavilion, across the road, and sunning itself in a prime beach front location, has been a Mosman institution for many years. So long in fact that is is due a face lift shortly. Another great option for breakfast. Tuck into a bowl of Brushwood’s farm oatmeal, or opt for the grilled olive toast with tomatoes, Persian fetta and baby rocket.

Let your breakfast settle with a stroll along the beach, the sea air tingling your nostrils. Hints of seaweed, and the squawk of hungry seagulls keeping you company. Head past the Boat House, and meander through the leafy oval, stopping momentarily to watch the next generation of Australian cricketers, practising in the nets. Let’s hope they aren’t producing too many Steve Smiths.

Fill up your lungs and get your heart pumping, as the walk continues, up through the bush on a rather steep incline. Following a well-maintained pathway, often lined with bush turkeys on the ground, and the laughing Kookaburra up in the tress, you will arrive at George’s Head. One of Mosman’s best kept secrets in my opinion, Georges Head offers one of Sydney’s best panoramas. 360 degrees views across to the city, and back along all the bays and inlets, as your eye tracks out towards the Heads. Boxing Day sees this spot packed with picnicking families watching the start of the famous Sydney to Hobart boat race.

Sydney to Hobart boat race. One of the highlights of spending 24 hours in Mosman — The Boxing Day Sydney to Hobart race

If you have the energy, let’s get walking again. Not straying too far from the ocean, take in the fragrant eucalyptus trees, heading downhill on the path, to Chowder Bay. Once again you will see a couple of great food options for another day. Ripples restaurant, a firm favourite, and East Coast Lounge, both come highly recommended. Are you sensing a food theme in Mosman yet? There is a reason that I am regularly out walking these bush trails in Sydney.

A perfect day in Mosman must include drinks or dinner at Ripples — Enjoying drinks at Ripples of Chowder Bay

Where to Lunch

Mosman village is a short walk from Chowder Bay, (dare I mention that it is back uphill?) and if you want to delay lunch a little while longer, have a browse in the boutiques that line Military Road in Mosman. You are sure to pick up something a little different, if your purse strings will stretch to it. Make sure you don’t spend all your money in Lululemon, or The Upside, as Mosman village is a good place to rest your feet and enjoy a spot of lunch.

Fourth Village providore is an authentic deli, and restaurant that could have you wondering whether you have just woken up in Rome. Italian speaking staff will help you navigate the excellent selection of cold meats and hundreds of cheeses, if you plan on having a picnic, and eating al fresco on the nearby oval. If you wish to eat in, take a seat in the restaurant, at one of the tables out on the small plaza in front, and graze your way through a few of the menu items.

Next door is the African inspired Hunter wine bar. Plan for a relaxing afternoon, and take a post prandial drink here, watching the world go by.

If high tea is more your thing, and you can read here about what I think are the top 10 High Teas in Sydney, head to Boronia House. A building that deserves a visit in its own right, but the high tea served up here makes this a must visit whilst in Mosman.

A perfect day in Mosman has to include high tea at the Boronia — Boronia House, Mosman

The Albert Hotel

Mosman currently has limited hotel accommodation options, but this will change in November, with the opening of The Albert, a luxury boutique hotel right in the village. This first boutique hotel, which will have 28 rooms, will be a perfect base for visitors wishing to explore this beautiful part of Sydney, and those looking to go further afield, up along the Northern Beaches.

Dinner Plans?

Until the Albert opens its doors, Air BnB caters for many visitors, with rooms spread across the village. You are sure to find one close enough to the Buena, where you should head for your early evening drinks. Standing sentry, at Mosman Junction, The Buena has under gone major renovations in the last couple of years, turning a run-down pub into an upscale bar, with an excellent menu, and an Italian style wood oven that churns out pizzas to rival those of the best pizzaiolo in Naples. Despite the renos, the pub has somehow managed to maintain its unique character, which still results in it being the most popular haunt for locals, whether you want an early dinner with the kids, or are in desperate need of a bottle of wine, or two, and an overdue catch up with your mates.

What is a good day in Mosman without a visit to the Buena Hotel. — The Buena, cornerstone of many a Sunday session

If you want to look at other options for dinner, there are enough in Mosman to keep you occupied for many months. DC’s is a standout, and slightly more upscale than some of the others. Great for that special occasion, or a stand out date night. There are several Thai restaurants, the best of which is Thai Kanteen. Not many weeks go by without a personal visit here. Greek is catered for with a couple of good options. And if you just want to do what Justin Bieber did whilst he was staying in Mosman, keep it casual with a feast from the ever excellent Chargrill Charlie’s.

It is very easy to spend a perfect 24 hours in Mosman. See the best of Mosman in one day. But with so much to see and do, why would you limit yourself to only one day?

What are you waiting for…

Happy New Year, and all that

January 7, 2013 by Fran 2 Comments

If you are reading this, the zombies didn’t come and get you either. Or you had a very effective anti-zombie kit stashed under your bed. Whichever, it’s good to speak to you again. Zombies and Mayans have been avoided, at least for 2012. <<breathes a sigh of relief>>. Then again, the Mayans were notoriously bad at calendar management so the threat from those chaps may come around again this year.

It’s been a while since my last blog, and I know that I split December up because of so much happening over the festive period. In fact, I think too much has happened, or the copious amounts of mince pies, Tim Tams and Freddos, washed down with litres (quite literally on Christmas Day!) of wine, have addled my brain to the point where writing something coherent for you to read will be a challenge into itself.

How did 2012 end? I had recounted the two Christmas parties I had and all that was left was a few quiet drinks with mates on the final Thursday before breaking up. Did I say quiet drinks? These boys just don’t know when they are beat, and just as I was saying adios, another round was procured, of Coopers Red ale. Yes, the bloody strong stuff. Salud gents!

One sausage, or two?

Christmas Day rolled around, along with my big birthday plans to spend it on the beach, in our Santa hats, getting slowly inebriated. And what happened? We had the wettest Christmas Day in Sydney since 1942. I kid you not. That is an official stat. I just about managed to cook up the breakfast on the BBQ, sipping Bucks Fizz, and the heavens opened. And they stayed open all day. All day. Plan B wasn’t too bad, setting a challenge to drink 4 litres of goon (cheap Aussie wine) whilst watching “It’s a Wonderful Life”. And we completed the challenge, worryingly rather too easily.

Typically, and thankfully, that was the only real bad day of weather and normal service was resumed on Boxing Day. We waved off the boats in the annual Sydney to Hobart race from Georges Head lookout. One of the city’s finest vantage points in my opinion. With sweeping views across the whole harbour, and out to the sea between the North and South Heads. Watching the start of the race is a bit of a tradition for Sydney-siders, one that I can easily see me adopting.

Waiting for the starter’s gun

The evening saw my first ever visit to the SCG (Sydney cricket ground) for the 20/20 match between Sydney Sixers and Hobart Hurricanes. We were fortunate enough to see two Australian cricket legends face off against each other, Brett Lee and Ricky Ponting. The 20/20 is all a bit razz-ma-tazz, with cheerleaders and loud music, but it was great fun.

The rest of the Christmas holidays have been filled up doing great tourist things. A meal up the Sydney Tower in the revolving restaurant with amazing 360 views of this stunning city. A visit to Taronga Zoo, where the giraffes surely have the best view of any captive animal in the world. The Aquarium and the Wildlife centre were great. Once again seeing my favourites such as the sharks, wombats, koalas and Tasmanian Devils up close and personal.

Finally, we had the coup de grace. New Year’s Eve. Knowing there would be a few of us, with a number coming from the UK, I had been very prepared and bought tickets for the party in Luna Park (affectionately renamed La Luna Park in reference the excellent restaurant in Halifax run by Tony). And what a night it turned out to be. Starting off at Cormack HQ, we had a couple of bottles of Prosecco just to get warmed up. We then went to Barton/Hannon-Dalby HQ for further beers. Although not sure everybody in our party needed much more at this stage. No, she hasn’t had a stroke, it’s her “wine face”.

A short time later we were in Luna Park, drinking, and working out which of the rides to go on first. Yes, it may have been an adults only party, but all the rides were open. I’m not sure us all going on the pirate ship that swung us upside down was our best idea. But what fun. In a nefarious attempt to make me sick (I believe), we went on something that just span us around, very fast. Queasily, I gingerly stepped off, to get my land feet back. A cold Tooheys helped.

The evening passed by so fast, with surprisingly short queues for drinks and more space than I imagined for a party beneath the Harbour Bridge. And finally, the end of 2012 drew to a close, and we kicked off 2013 in style, with one of the world’s greatest fireworks shows. Kylie Minogue’s lips lighting up the Bridge and a coordinated fireworks display across the whole Harbour.

Breathtaking.

And now, into 2013, and time to look at what my personal goals for the year will be.

Reflections on a fantastic Xmas 2016

January 14, 2017 by Fran 1 Comment

I have said it before. And it needs saying again. I live in a very beautiful, picturesque part of the world. The village I live in has everything I could ever want, or need, without having to leave the confines of the post code.

But when I do venture out, beyond 2088, I am always greeted with new, and amazing sights, and experiences.

That said, into year 5 of living in Sydney, and with the daily drudge of the commute into the city, with everybody else, heads down, engrossed in their smartphones, it is often easy to miss what is in front of you. Slightly take for granted that my office, in the architecturally magnificent, restored old General Post Office in Martin Place, is in the centre of Sydney. One of the world’s most visually stunning cities.

So, it is with delight, that when we have first time visitors to Sydney, as we have had over Christmas, I get to see Sydney all over again, vicariously, for the first time. The first sight of THAT bridge, and the Opera House, as the Mosman Bay ferry rounds the bend at Cremorne, and Port Jackson comes into view, in all her glory. This time of year, we also have the joy of seeing one of the many large cruise ships, docked in Circular Quay, speculating on where they are headed for the season festivities as they enjoy their sail away party, which is an actual thing, apparently. Which you would know, if television programmes about cruise ships were amongst your favourite shows too.

In the beautiful Hunter Valley

So, how to best plan for visitors? Regular readers of the blog will be aware of my love of a spreadsheet. Not the boring kind I have to maintain at work, tracking annual budgets, and project forecasts. But the more exciting kind, if there is such as thing. Burger rankings. Wine tastings I have done around the world. And the one that gets recycled the most, the “See everything in Sydney in a week, or two, tour” spreadsheet. Where all that seems to get changed each time it is used are the dates.

Planning for our visitors, the most recent of which arrived on these shores on December 18th, is spreadsheet nirvana. Into Google Sheets (other applications are available) I go, save a copy of the last used, update the names of the guests, and away I go. Wine tour, tick. (Special thanks to Sam at Kangarrific for what is perennially the world’s best day trip). Bondi to Coogee walk, tick. Spit Bridge to Manly scenic walk, tick. Blue Mountains day trip, tick. Proper Aussie barbie, tick. Xmas day on the beach, with beers, tick. Chicken schnitty, tick. Nothing gets left to chance. Nothing gets left out.

I’d like to think, and hope, that all our guests go home with a real sense of what Sydney is like, and having had some quintessential Australian experiences. Tim Tams included.

And in return, I get to learn things myself. Who knew “dabbing” is not just the latest dance craze? That you could get “black jack” scented vapers? (a pretend cigarette, if like me, you were clueless). And that you can actually buy “In The Navy” briefs. Say whaaat?!? Every day is a school day in my life. Thank you Serge, and Serge, for those snippets of information.

Much fun was had over the holiday period, and I am just thankful we still had a regular bottle recycling collection. I think we kept Dan Murphy’s in business over Xmas.

The lads obviously brought their drinking boots. After we warned them we would be sup’ing. Being from the area in and around infamous Blackpool, they assumed it would entail many visits to Yate’s wine lodge, Wetherspoon’s, and the Tower ballroom type pubs and bars. Little did they know this entailed a long board, a paddle, and much balance, as we attempted to traverse middle harbour at Balmoral.

Stand up paddle (SUP) boarding is harder than the people gliding out in the water would have you believe. That said, one of our party was annoyingly good at his first ever attempt. Most of the hour was spent trying to dunk him in the invigoratingly chilly ocean, once he had been suitably reassured there were no sharks lurking ready to take a large chunk out of him. At least in the water he was safe from spiders. And safe from pictures of spiders, which seem to cause the same involuntary reaction, which at first I worried was a stroke.

What is the first thing an English person wants to do in Australia? Yes, determine the hottest part of the day, find the spot with the least amount of shade, and sit there. And sit. Well, I don’t need to spell out the result to you. You have all (Aussies excepted) been there yourself. Day 1, first degree burns. Whilst my call for shade on the first day ignored, the rest of the holiday followed a “safety first” approach. Slip, slop, slap.

End of the Bondi to Coogee walk – beer awaiting

I’m sure the good memories will last longer than the pink faces that were still in evidence as we said a very sad farewell. A great holiday, with great company. You are welcome back anytime chaps.

Squish squish.

It’s not so grim oop North!

October 3, 2012 by Fran Leave a Comment

The great thing about actually spending time as a resident in a city, rather than a tourist, is that you really get the opportunity to see “beyond the brochure”. Do more than scratch the surface. A bit like peeling an onion, by slowly removing the layers, you start to see what is hidden under the surface.

I have spent many a long holiday in Sydney, even living here, albeit briefly, in 1994. And yet, I’m discovering that I have hardly scratched the surface of all it holds. There is a side to Sydney that I haven’t seen before. I suspect, not many tourists have seen it.

What we tend to see as tourists, is the side portrayed in the numerous guidebooks and travel shows. Picking out the spots our friends have recommended to us from previous trips. The picture-postcard vistas. The Opera House, the Bridge (designed and built by a British firm who were also responsible for the Tyne bridge), and the iconic yellow and green Manly ferry. And these are fabulous experiences. Sights that absolutely should not be missed. Veritable rites of passage for any visitor to Sydney. Even to the regular visitor, the sight of the magnificent harbour as you casually chance upon it strolling from the CBD is breathtaking. Often described as the most beautiful harbour in the world. If it isn’t it is definitely a contender, up there with Hong Kong.

That said, who hasn’t sat at Circular Quay, or in the Opera Bar, cooling off in the summer heat with a cold sauv blanc, or Meursault if you are posh, and stared wistfully into the smiling, somewhat sinister, eyes of Luna Park across the sun-kissed water and wondered, what treasures are over those hills? What lies beyond the leafy suburbs of Kirribilli, Milson’s Point, Cremorne, and Taronga? It’s like an Australian Parallel Universe just begging to be checked out.

This is the first time I have spent time on Sydney’s North Shore; what a delight it’s been. Starting in Neutral Bay then moving into Mosman, a whole world has opened up to me, one that I would never know about as a tourist. My local beach is a 10-minute walk away, Balmoral, and it is simply beautiful. Smaller and less developed than many of Sydney’s larger beaches, it has a real beach suburb feel to it. From dawn ‘til dusk you can see runners, swimmers, kayakers, walkers, paddle boarders and more, of all ages, taking advantage of this beautiful little spot. Sunday sees the Rocky Island outlet transformed into a vast picnic area. I even know of one young man who proposed to his girlfriend on that very spot. Good choice mate.

I love to walk down to Balmoral, wander bare foot along the sand, the ocean lapping over my feet and just take in the splendor. Marvel that I actually live here. I think I’ve found where I will spend my birthday on Xmas Day. Oh, and did I mention the outstanding fish and chips on offer from the “Bottom of the Harbour”? Just watch out for the hungry, swooping seagulls.

In the other direction, down the hill to Chowder Bay is the beach at Clifton Gardens, and the lesser known (to me, honest) “nudist friendly” beaches of Obelisk and Cobblers. At least I now have somewhere to go when my budgie smugglers are in the wash!

And this is just my suburb. One of many such beach suburbs on the North Shore. Recently, I took the scooter on a run up the Northern Beaches, calling in and drooling at places such as Freshwater, Dee Why (for fish and chips on the beach – notice a foodie theme?), Whale Beach and finally, Palm Beach. Not so much as a homage to Home and Away, but more practically as this is where you run out of road. This is the gateway to the Hawkesbury River, another area that demands to be explored. Another on my North Shore to-do list.

With so many beaches to visit, camp sites and National Parks on my doorstep, I do wonder how long it will be before I eventually get back over to the Eastern Suburbs and reacquaint myself with Bronte, Coogee, Clovelly and the hip, rough around the edges, backpacker delights of Bondi. Which reminds me. If you want a laugh, YouTube the “Bondi Hipsters”, made me smile anyway.

‘Til the next time…this Pom has a fish and chip shop to visit.

Melbourne, Open

Adelaide – The City of Churches