Explore with Fran

VietJet to Vietnam

With the new year it was time to leave Tokyo and head into Vietnam. We started 2023 in SouthEast Asia. A place that our dwindling dollars will stretch a little bit further. If only we had some of those dollars on us for the flight from Japan. The VietJet flight. An international airline. And it was cash only. Yes, I haven’t got this the wrong way around. In recent times, as a result of the COVID pandemic, most flights have transitioned to card payments only. A welcome move away from pesky cash. But here, in the air, between countries, our cards were of no use. And we had no Vietnamese currency. Why would we? We always pick some up on arrival. 

So, despite almost pleading with the stewards on the plane, we could get no food or drink for the next 6 hours. And, we had missed breakfast, thinking we would get it in the airport in Tokyo. That plan hadn’t worked out. Hitting the worst queue for check in I have ever experienced, once we had waited 2 and a half hours to check our bags in, we had to rush to the plane. So, if you are keeping count, this means that we had no food from last nights dinner, until we managed to get somewhere in Hanoi, Vietnam. A total of approximately, well, I was too tired to work it out.

Hungry in Hanoi

We arrived tired and very hungry, which resulted in overpaying for some street food. The smells of roast pork drifting up off the makeshift BBQ, we asked for two bahn mi. Vietnam’s finest sandwich. Walking away, devouring the sandwich, enjoying the heat of the chilli and the fragrance of the coriander, we didn’t pay too much attention to what we had paid.

We never saw the street vendor again after that night. I can only assume he retired and is living at the beach with what we paid him. We will never see that $11 again. Settling down on to a tiny blue plastic stool later in the evening, the $1.50 beers (86p) somewhat made up for it. I was reminded of a refrain I had heard previosuly from a traveller to her partner, “this is Asia, babe.”

Hanoi traffic and the art of crossing the road

Crossing the road in Hanoi is an art form. And it goes something like this. Whatever the situation with oncoming traffic, just start walking. And walk. And keep walking. For your safety, do not hesitate, or stop. It is like a form of magic. Drivers know what is ahead of them, which is you, and start adjusting accordingly. They anticipate your walking speed and drive around you. And it works. Trust me. There are even videos on YouTube explaining this. Crossing is a little easier when it is “only” a train that is due. Although we never did get to see one passing when we visited Train Street.

We were crossing the road to go and buy tissues. Victoria had a nose that seemingly refused to stop running. Tissues were required. The first pharmacy we entered, blissfully chilled from the air conditioning, came up trumps. A pack of 6. The price looked good and so we took them to the counter. However, we found out that the price was per individual pack, and so, for all 6 it would be 49000 Vietnamese Dong. We both sucked through our teeth, “ooh, I’m not sure about that”. And promptly walked out. 

There was no way we could afford $3.05. Not when we needed that same $3 (£1.73) for two beers tonight. Victoria’s nose would just have to run.

Halong Bay

Hanoi is a great place to visit. It feels welcoming. And small, despite its size. Walking around the lake. Wandering the Old Quarter. Drinking egg coffee (yes, egg coffee. It was delicious. You will just have to trust me on this one). And strolling through the French quarter, marvelling at the original architecture. That said, there is more to northern Vietnam than just Hanoi, and so we took ourselves off on a few excursions.

One that should be on everyone’s list is an over night stay in Ha Long Bay. A UNESCO World Heritage site, every hotel in Hanoi offers tours here. We chose a 1 night stay which involved a bus pick up from our hotel in the city, a few hours drive to Ha Long, and then overnight on a boat, sailing amongst some of the most amazing scenery you will ever see. Of course, this is very popular, and you won’t be the only boat cruising the waters, yet, the experience remains tranquil.

That is until later in the evening. When the ubiquitous karaoke comes out. And if you have a mob of drunken Australian backpackers on your boat, as we did, sleep is not guaranteed. I was happy to see how hungover the young travellers were the next day, with all of them missing the 6am Tai Chi session on the top deck of the boat as the sun rose.

Nimh Binh 

A little closer to Hanoi is Nimh Binh. Close enough for us to do a fabulous day trip there. A trip that did not invlove any karaoke. Just beautiful countryside and a river that winds through rice paddy fields that we got to take a boat trip on. I am not sure why we had to stay on the bus and have a separate boat trip to the rest of our fellow passengers, and I am sure they thought the same as we were driven off by ourselves, into the unknown.

After what felt like the shortest bike ride in the world, we were taken for our “included buffet lunch”. We had some experience of these infamous buffet lunches so were not surprised to see cold rice, spring rolls, and instant noodles. Augmented with plates of fruit, and a nod to Western tastes, (fries), you could quite easily lose weight if you did enough trips. 

The delicious food of Vietnam

Whilst the Vietnamese buffet lunches really are a sight to behold, it would be grossly unfair to let this cloud your judgement of Vietnamese cuisine. There are some excellent dishes to be had. You know that the National dish is pho (pronounced “fur”), but did you know there are unlimited varieties of the famous noodle soup dish? 

A lot of the food is regional. Such as Bun Cha in Hanoi. Pork with rice. In Hoi An they have Cao Lau, a pork noodle dish. And everywhere they have the delicious baguettes that I mentioned above, Bahn Mi. What we did find was that these were of varying quality. And our favourite ones were the ones bought off street vendors. Simple fillings of pork, cucumber, coriander and chillies. Yum. And now we know what these should cost.

I mentioned egg coffee earlier. And yes, I pulled a face too. Then I tried it. Oh my, it is delicious. Strong, bitter coffee slowly coming through the sweet, whipped egg yolk. My mouth is watering as I write. If egg coffee is not your thing, try coffee on its own. Vietnam is the world’s second largest exporter of coffee and the options blew me away. From the traditional Vietnamese coffee pot, to some of the best espresso based coffees I have had, and I have had a lot, living in Australia.

Happy in Hoi An

Leaving Hanoi we headed south. Opting to eschew spending 17 hours on an overnight bus with smelly backpackers, we flew. Call us decadent but a 1 hour flight suited us just fine, thank you very much. 

Hoi An was really busy, and this doesn’t surprise me. The place, hugging the river, is beautiful. And so busy, which after 2 years of COVID must be a blessed relief for the locals. Much of their livelihood relies on tourism. Large numbers of tourists also leads to lots of easy going hassling from street vendors and tuk tuk drivers. If you have travelled in Asia you will be smiling now at the memory. 

“Tuk tuk, sir?”, is a common refrain. Very common. A short walk to town can have you fending off dozens of over eager drivers. And if I see another fancy unfolding greeting card I may scream. Crawling spiderman? Flying bird? Over priced coconut? It does get a little tiresome. Do people actually buy these things?

Visiting Golden Bridge in the Ba Na Hills

Set by the riverside, with glorious old French houses lining the streets Hoi An is a delight. Great cafes and restaurants. And when you want to venture further afield take a day trip to the Ba Na hills near Da Nang. A short 1 hour drive from Hoi An is a strange theme park. On the top of a hill. There is a Mercure hotel and loads of amusements that seem incrogruous with the area. To get there you take the worlds longest cable car. In fact you take two of them. And they are very high. 

At the top you get to see Golden Bridge. Which really is worth seeing. In fact, this was the sole reason we were on the trip. There are no options for a half day so we were in, boots and all, to the full day. Golden Bridge opened in June 2018 and I guess will already be one of the most Instagrammed spots on the planet. Go on. Check. Type “hand bridge” into Insta. I’ll wait. 

Impressive isn’t it? And I’m sure it is even more impressive on a clear day. Being the time of year that we visited, we had fog and mist. Still. We managed to get a few shots to join the millions already on social media. 

Ho Chi Minh

Our final stop in Vietnam was Ho Chi Minh city. Previously known as Saigon, it was renamed after the revered former leader of Vietnam in 1975. So revered in fact that the Vietnamese don’t want to say goodbye to him. So, the body of Ho Chi Minh now lies, fully embalmed, on open view in a mausoleum in Hanoi. That itself is worth a visit. 

Back in the land of the living, HCM city is a vast urban sprawl. If we thought the traffic in Hanoi was bad, HCM was on steroids. There are approximately 7 million scooters and moter bikes. And don’t you know it. They drive both ways down one way streets. Zip in and out of cars without a thought. And, if the traffic lights are red, they mount the curb and just drive down the pavement, cutting the lights out altogether. You really need your wits about you just walking down the street.

Escaping the sprawling city for the day we had a trip down to the Mekong River. Visiting some small islands down there and meeting locals who live a much simpler life. Growing and exporting coconuts is big business down in the Mekong region and we got to try fresh coconuts and also the candy that they make from it. 

Eating rat in the Mekong Delta

We also got to try other, more exotic foods. I had my first taste of rat. Very reminiscent of the guinea pig that I once had in Peru. Not something I would want to eat every day. Or, ever again. The rat, or the guinea pig. Victoria declined the offer of a rodent lunch and we both had a shot of “happy wine”. Very strong rice wine fermented with a whole menagerie of reptiles. Snakes and lizards galore in the bottle. The shot wasn’t that bad. I am just not sure why I have started growing scales on my body.

In two weeks we had seen a lot of Vietnam. The cities. The countryside. And the very friendly, very smiley Vietnamese people. It is a country that is easy to travel around and somewhere you are always made to feel welcome. Considering the history of this country, and the terrors of the Vietnam/American War in the 1960s, it has rebounded in a very positive way. Walking through the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh is a very sobering experience. Reading of the atrocities caused by the USA through use of Agent Orange brings tears to the eyes. Generations have suffered, and continue to suffer. With a heavy heart we take a moment to be grateful for the lives we have been fortunate to have lived.

Cambodia beckons

Vietnam is a country we would have loved to have stayed longer. However, our visa had only one day left, there is a story there too, but for another day, and so we were booked on a bus out. We were leaving Vietnam, crossing the land border on our way to Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia. Just a seven, which turned into nine, hour journey between us. 

Swapping one continent for another

We left Miami, and behind us a whole continent. We were headed to Asia, and Tokyo was to be our entrypoint. What stood in our way was a short 6 hour hop across to Los Angeles. where we overnighted near the hotel, making for a smooth start to a long travel day to Japan.

ZipAir to Tokyo

Tokyo was a 12 hour flight and in our wisdom we had booked a budget airline. One we had never heard of, ZipAir. And ZipAir turned out to be one of the better budget airlines we had used in our lives. And they range from good, like the ZipAir flight, to pitiful. And this was before we were to encounter VietJet in Vietnam. More on that down the track. The biggest downside to using ZipAir was that there was no in flight entertainment. Nothing. We now had the challenge of sitting through 12 long hours.

A travel oddity of flying from the United States to Asia is that you cross the international date line. We left Los Angeles and at some point over the North Pacific Ocean the date changes. It jumps forward. to the day after. After a 12 hour flight and a 1 and half hour transfer from the airport into Tokyo city it was very discombobulating. I couldn’t work out what time my body thought it was even though my watch was telling me it was 8pm.

Dinner time in Tokyo

And my watch telling me it is 8pm leads to my brain telling me that it is time for dinner. In Japan, this is where the fun starts. Travelling is a little like playing a computer game. There are varying levels of difficulty. Travelling in places like The Netherlands and Belgium you are on level 1. Everyone, like everyone, speaks English. Navigating and eating is easy. No skill required. 

Switzerland and Austria turned out to be level 2. Everyone is very friendly but little English is spoken. German dominates, and you have to look hard to find a menu in English. But you do, eventually. And the beauty of the country takes over, making you forget your minor struggles.

In Tokyo the struggles are real. Not only do very few people speak English, but there are very, very few menus in English. Yes, they do make those cute little plastic plates of food that you can point at. Observing me making chicken and pig noises to try and establish what is actually in the real version of the plastic dish is a sight to behold. 

For those of you screaming, “use Google translate, you idiot”, give me a second to explain myself. I love Google Translate, and when you have data on your phone the app is priceless. With no data, it is useless, unless you can manually type in the Japanese characters for whatever phrase you are looking for. Not easy. 

Exploring Tokyo

And yet, Tokyo is captivating. There is so much to see. Even just visiting the various suburbs, once you have worked out how to use the underground, and seeing the differences is quite startling. Shinjuku, where we based ourselves, is all neon lights and tall buildings. Down the road, Shibuya has the busiest intersection in the world. At its daily peak, there are as many as 3000 people crossing the road all at once. It was a little more sedate when we visited but check out the videos on YouTube.

Not far from Tokyo station there is the Imperial Palace and gardens to explore. And close by is Ginza, well worth a stroll. Streets lined with shops, shopping being something that the Japanese do very well. Another thing we noticed the Japanese doing well is queuing. The Japanese just love a queue. I don’t mean three or four people waiting to get to the counter. I mean lines and lines and lines of people, queuing for all manner of things, including teddy bear shops (note: these were adults), and a K pop band, whatever one of those is.

We visited Itoya. A magical stationery store, spread over 6 levels, packed with everything from high end fountain pens and luxury notepads, to the cheap pens that I am slightly addicted to. I treat myself to one of those that have four colours in one and you select by choosing the one you want around the top of the lid.

New Years Eve in Tokyo

As a quirk of timing we had New Years Eve in Tokyo. Never being big fans of this particular occasion, we are always in bed before midnight, we found ourselves having a couple of pints of good Guinness in an Irish bar, and heading home well before the clock struck midnight. I ended a fabulous 2022 with a nightcap of Japanese whisky.

We both reflected on what 2022 brought, us getting on the road finally, and what 2023 would bring us. Grateful, and tired, we kissed goodnight, and turned the light out on the year. We had an early start for 2023, heading to country number 18.

An Easy Goodbye to NYC

Leaving New York always feels easy. Because you know that you are going to be back. Maybe not in a year. Maybe not in five. But, you will, I assure you. The Big Apple is such a draw that you won’t be able to resist. Eventually. A little like tattoos. After you have your first you are on a lifelong journey. It is only a matter of time before you get your second.

Unlike tattoos, visiting New York is painless. As was leaving her, on a cold December afternoon. We wheeled our cases across town and jumped on a FlixBus at Madison Square Gardens. An easy four and half hour bus ride later and we were rolling into South Station, Boston.

Bus to Boston

Boston is a city that I have wanted to visit for a very long time. I am not sure why, exactly. Maybe it is after watching so many films based in Boston, and being drawn to the very distinctive Boston accent. Just sitting on the same bench in Boston Common from which Robin Williams delivered a stirring speech to a young Matt Damon in the film Good Will Hunting. Or being engrossed in “The Town” and the bank robbing character played by local boy, Ben Affleck.

However, I suspect it was after watching all those episodes of “Cheers”, many years ago, and wanting to drink somewhere that “everyone knows your name”. It was touching to see a large poster of the late Kirstie Alley outside the bar, thanking her “for the laughs”.

Braving the cold in Boston

Whatever the reason, I was very happy to be here. And even happier that we had some semblance of warm clothing, because it was mighty cold. With the wind chill the temperature had dropped to freezing. Our hotel was located in North Station, overlooking the stadium that is shared by Boston Celtics (basketball) and Boston Bruins (ice hockey).

This made for a very vibrant part of town as each night there seemed to be a game on. And the hotel room made for an interesting night. Our bed (number 62 of the trip) was fully boxed in on three sides. Meaning person two had to clamber over person one to get out to the toilet. I made sure I was person one, closer to the toilet.

Boston’s place at the heart of US history

Exploring Boston was a constant eye opener for me. Ignorant, maybe, yet I hadn’t realised the extent of the history in Boston. How much of the journey to independence started right there. I knew of the famous “Boston Tea Party”, and it was good to visit the spot where the tea had been ceremoniously dumped in the water. Over the course of four days I also got to learn more of Samuel Adams, Paul Revere, and a host of other characters that play an integral role in what became the United States of America. 

The “Freedom Trail” is a well sign posted walk across the city, taking in key sights and monuments from the time. Visiting the cemeteries where these key figures from history lay was a moving experience. With only a slight detour we even got to see a potato memorial. In fact, Victoria insisted on it. And I have to say, as far as potato memorials go, it was possibly the best I’ve ever seen. 

The food theme continues

If New York is about the pizza, Boston is all about the clam chowder (potatoes notwithstanding). And it didn’t take me long to try my first. On the very first night we visited the famous Quincy Markets and their excellent food stalls. Boston Chowda provided dinner for me that night. A delicious seafood chowder in a bread bowl. 

Keeping up with my love of American comfort food we had a great mac and cheese dinner at one of the two breweries we visited and we also got to have an authentic Boston bar experience. Tucked away on a side street, down in the basement, we joined Boston locals at Teddy’s On The Hill and had a pint of New England IPA and a huge plate of ribs. Delicious. I could almost hear the locals describing me as “wicked smaaht “ for calling in. 

Have I mentioned we love hot chocolate? Great hot chocolate. In Boston we had some of the best at LA Burdick in the Back Bay area. So good in fact we ended up going twice. 

Time to head south, and to warmer climes

Hot chocolate was something we wouldn’t be needing at our next destination. Having spent a full day in Boston deliberating about where to go next, both insisting it had to be somewhere warm, we flew down to Miami. This was where we would spend the next four nights, which included Christmas Day. Yes, we were craving a Christmas from home so we were off to the beach. 

Not any old beach. Our home was to be South Beach. Famous for Miami Vice, the Bad Boys franchise, and for being where Gianni Versace was murdered on the steps of his mansion. Now converted into a 5 star hotel, the Versace mansion was around the corner from our rather less salubrious accommodation.

Our hotel was one we won’t be forgetting in a hurry. Slightly shabby and our room was over the hotel pool and restaurant. Not a problem in most parts of the world but in Miami, where loud, pumping music until midnight is the standard, it caused some annoyance.

Miami life, without the vice

Spending time out of the hotel was easy and we spent much time walking the excellent boardwalk that hugs the ocean. It was fun to watch the life of Miami in all its glory. Outside gyms with dedicated people pumping weights even on Christmas morning. Silly three wheel cars called Slingshots. We marvelled at the amazing Art Deco buildings lining Ocean Drive. We marvelled even more as we walked past The Palace. A full on dancing show, drag style. Men were literally throwing money at the dancers, whilst their wives were probably at the bar. This was Miami.

Food played a big role, I’m sure you will be surprised to hear. We got to celebrate my birthday with a huge Greek feast. We usually have Indian food on Christmas Day but this year we wanted to relive our Greek Island hopping adventures of last summer. More than once we visited the Time Out markets and like the ones we visited in Lisbon and New York there was a wide array of fabulous eating options. I had quite possibly the largest Japanese curry rice in the world. 

Our last night in Miami saw me in my favourite habitat. The humble American diner. I love them. And their simplicity. House drip coffee and a menu that has everything I could ever want. The hard part is choosing. I landed on the corned beef hash and it was a good choice. We even had real Heinz tomato ketchup. Happy days.

Onwards we go

Our happy days in the United States were drawing to a close. We were due on a flight to Los Angeles were we overnighted, before boarding a 12 hour flight to Tokyo. Country number 17 and bed number 65 awaits. Asia, here we come.

We reach land, after a long nine days

The cruise finally came to an end on a cold, very wet Friday morning. We woke to a downpour and views of Manhattan. As we slept, we inched up the Hudson River and docked at Pier 88. We were about to step on to dry land for the first time in nine days. Oh, how we looked forward to that. 

Clearing customs was a lot easier, and quicker than I anticipated. Having gone through customs at US airports previously I expected long lines and questions about why we were here. Where were we staying? How many guns have you in your hand luggage? The kind of stuff you get asked at US customs. Making you sweat and feel as though you shouldn’t be there. 

A friendly welcome to New York city

Not so in New York. A cheery customs officer greeted us, slowly took our fingerprints and we were off. Free to explore New York. The only parting words were a warning about the “taxi” drivers outside. If they accost you, offer to pay half of what they quote. With that in mind we stepped out into the street, immediately approached by a guy with “Uber” written on a Word document on his phone. We had only been at sea for nine days and unless Uber had changed drastically in that time I’m sure you hail an Uber through the app. 

“Ignore them”, I told Vik. 

Crossing at the green light we joined the taxi rank queue across the road. A very lengthy queue that had taxi scammers walking up and down constantly, offering a “good price”. One woman looked tempted but when offered a “good price” of $50 for a short ride, she huffed and walked away. 

We queued for what felt like a very long time. With the queue not getting any shorter and no yellow cabs appearing. Something didn’t feel right. I suspected there was some kind of monopoly on the taxi rank, set up to line the pockets of unofficial taxi drivers. 

“Come on, let’s start walking”, I said to Vik. 

Not the dry land we had hoped for

We had looked so forward to being on dry land, and yet, twenty minutes later we were drenched to the bone. And miserable. Not the dry land we had anticipated. We still had a way to go so we opted to jump on a bus and see where it took us. The bus was warm. Dry. And we could pay with our phones. When we jumped off at Bryant Park, just around the corner from our hotel, our spirits started lifting. 

Bags left at the hotel we went off and started exploring New York city. Along with thousands of others. Christmas is the best time to visit this great city, as long as you don’t mind sharing it with half of the world. Sauntering up 5th Ave in the rain we sought refuge in Trump Towers. A hot coffee and a supersized blueberry muffin compensated somewhat for having to look at Trump’s ugly mug everywhere. 

Have you missed him yet?

The souvenir shop was wall to ceiling with Trump memorabilia. And we haven’t seen the back of him. One of the best sellers were socks advertising his plan to run for the 2024 presidency with the logo “miss me yet?“

Having dried off, warmed up, and humoured the souvenir shop owner, a very pro Trump gentlemen we continued on our way. 

There is something magical about New York at Christmas. The shop decorations at places like Saks, and Macy’s. The holiday markets across the city, and ice rinks at Bryant Park and Central Park. And of course, the Rockefeller Christmas tree. A tree every Christmas lover should see once in their lifetime. 

New York city, one very good cliche

New York has everything. A city that lives up to all the cliches. The big apple delivers an experience unlike other cities around the world. From riding the subway and exploring Time Out Market in Dumbo (Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass) in Brooklyn, to strolling back across Brooklyn Bridge. It was in the Time Out Market that Victoria had quite possibly the best ever fluffy pancakes. Stacked on top of each other and served with a side of melted maple syrup butter, these were to die for.

Thankfully, New York is a walking city. We explored, and greatly enjoyed the High Line. A public park built on the former freight line that runs high above the street. We ambled through Battery Park and took in views of the famous Statue of Liberty.

We solemnly paid our respects at the Ground Zero memorial, and irreverently paid homage to TV with visits to Carrie Bradshaws apartment, and the apartment building that was used for the exterior shots in the wildly popular Friends show. And I have to mention Times Square. A must visit place. It is madness. And great fun.

New York state of mind

New York is a city you can spend days and weeks in, never getting to see it all. Said to have almost 30,000 restaurants you do the math and work out how long it would be before you would have to eat at the same place twice. Either way, I know you would be guaranteed good pizza, something we indulged in. Well, it was Xmas, after all.

Our visit to New York city passed by in a blur. A very enjoyable blur. We even managed to find a laundrette and left with clean underwear. We were back on the road. To a city I have wanted to visit for a long time. We were headed to Boston.

Were the European xmas markets as good as we expected?

The last time we spoke I was extolling the virtues of Austria. Such a beautiful country, and it felt even more special having the opportunity to visit through the festive period. I have read a lot about the Xmas markets in Europe, and from Switzerland, through to Austria, they lived up to all our expectations.

It was also as cold as we expected. Knowing this, we hadn’t committed to still being in Europe over Xmas and my birthday. Packing in Australia, for an extended world trip, our options were limited. There is only so much you can fit into a 55 litre bag. This resulted in us surviving the European wintry conditions by wearing many layers, and the only footwear we had available, which were trainers.

Europe did not disappoint

Europe was excellent. Right from the get go. We landed in the UK in July and enjoyed a rather unprecedented warm summer. We caught up with family and friends. I even got a side trip to Dublin to keep the “annual lads trip” tradition going, even if it is somewhat more erratic than annual. Now, it was time to say goodbye to Europe, with a final swansong back in Lisbon. We had a boat to catch. We were headed to New York City.

Start spreading the news

You heard that right. We were going to take a 9 day cruise to NYC. Our first cruise. Ever. And something that definitely was not in plan until a week or so before we booked it. Looking at options for flights, and when we wanted to be in New York, a slow cruise across the Atlantic Ocean, with planned stops in the Azores and Bermuda sounded like a great experience. Yes, we had always said we didn’t want to do a cruise, but life throws opportunities that sometimes you just have to grab. A discounted cruise across the ocean was one such opportunity. Coupled with lower carbon emissions, had we flown, was a bonus.

An “Epic” adventure

This is how we found ourselves leaving Lisbon onboard the Norwegian Cruise Line’s “Epic”. A huge ship that was being repatriated back to the US, after cruising the Meditteranen for the summer. She sails back across the Atlantic to spend the winter sailing between New York and Puerto Rico. With a capacity of 4000 guests, there were approx 2000 other passengers that joined us for the crossing. A crossing that just got a little more monotonous even as we boarded. It turned out there was a strike in Lisbon that day which meant that we could not leave until 2am the day after. The knock on effect of this was that we would no longer have time to dock at The Azores.

Exploring the boat

One stop cancelled, with just the Bermuda one remaining. How we would relish arriving in Bermuda for an opportunity to stretch our legs on dry land. Until then, we had to settle into our cabin, and get familiar with where things were. Starting on the top deck, 15, and working our way down.

As part of our package we had food and drinks included. All inclusive. A concept that is still relatively new to me. I had done it once, on safari in Africa, and I still marvel at the fact I can just rock up to the bar and order a drink without paying. This is how we started the cruise. Finding O’Sheehans Bar and Grill, which is where we watched the World Cup unfold, and ordering a pint of beer each. We sat at the bar, trying to get our heads around how we would fill 9 days at sea.

Life at sea finds its routine

Soon, days took on a familar pattern. A great breakfast, during which I predicictably ate too much. A stroll through the casino and onto the library to pick up our daily crossword and sudoku. An Irish coffee at O’Sheehans. An hour in the gym, trying not to get thrown off the treadmill as the boat see sawed through the large waves of the Atlantic. Another walk through the boat, people watching, which, by the way, could be a full time activity on a cruise. Watching them at one of the many “exciting” offerings on the boat was hilarious. People rushed to join in line dancing lessons. Napkin folding classes. And even fruit carving demonstrations.

We bypassed the fruit carving, but definitely not lunch. There were a multitude of restauramts to choose from, all very good. Food was a highlight of the cruise. It was excellent. From the option of a buffet, offering most foods you could think of, to a la carte restaurants that were included in our ticket. I even had quite possibly the biggest lasagne in the world.

On World Cup days we had matches to watch at 3pm and 7pm. This was before we hit a run of clock changes. For the last five days we had to change our clocks back one hour each night. This was so that by the time we reached NYC we were on the same time zone. On the few days that there was no football on, we either spent time reading or went ten pin bowling. Like trying to stay on the treadmill as the boat roiled in the waves, bowling had its own challenges. You may think you have bowled a strike, until half way down, the boat rolls, and your ball ends up in the side gutter. Let me tell you, it made for a very low scoring game.

Bermuda, blocked

Each evening, when we returned to the cabin, we had a “Day at sea” itinerary. We were excitingly going to be docking in Bermuda on day 7. Except, we didn’t. The evening before, the tannoy cackled with the voice of the captain. The first time we had heard from him. This couldn’t be good.

And it wasn’t. Due to the rough crossing, and bad weather, we were unable to dock at Bermuda. Very sorry, blah, blah, blah, but we were now going to go the whole way to NYC without touching dry land. A long 9 days. This was sweetened, slightly, with every guest receiving $200 credit to use on the boat. Vik took the opportunity to get a manicure. With my nails already in excellent condition I bought a bottle of single malt whisky.

Sailing up the Hudson

Our experience of crossing the Atlantic turned out to be long, and memorable. Some days, when I couldn’t stand up straight as I was walking to dinner, I cursed the day we boarded. Other days, sipping my regular whisky nightcaps, I marvelled at the simplicity of it all. The routine. The confines of the boat. The same faces, day after day. There is comfort in routine, and for the last nine days we hadn’t had to find a hotel, book a train, or search high and low for a good evening meal.

So, as we woke on that final morning, with views of New York City, we asked each other, “would you do another cruise?”

“Absolutely not”, we both replied. But then, as the last week has shown us, life has a funny way of turning out. And, I do love an Irish coffee.

Entering country number 15

As we left Switzerland by train, crossing the border, (such a scenic train ride), we entered the 15th country of our travels. We took a moment to reflect on the last 6 months. Leaving Perth back in June seems like a very long time ago. We left Australia in winter, spent the summer touring through the UK and now, winter rolls around again. The northern hemisphere version. A much colder version than we are used to at home. 

The year so far has been an exploration and the exploring continues in Austria. This is the first time either of us have visited Austria. We started in Innsbruck and would end in Vienna. From that point our plans dry up. Post Vienna we didn’t know where the road would take us. As it turned out, it wasn’t a road, but more on that in a later blog.

A cold xmas

Back in the height of the UK summer, and yes, this year was a great summer, we romanticised about a cold xmas. The first for 10 years. It is fair to say that I have acclimated to the Australian weather, and a slight drop in temperature sends me searching for my jumpers. Sat in Yorkshire, in August, in a t-shirt, did I ever think we would really stay around as the cold weather set in?

And yet, there we were. Walking from the train station at Innsbruck to our hotel. Woolly hats kept our head and ears warm. Our destination was the Marktbar Studios, sitting on the banks of the river Inn. We had great views across the river, and the nearby snow capped mountains. 

A winter wonderland 

The next day saw us going to the very top of one of those mountains. The highest. A funicular, followed by two cable car rides had us at the “Top of Innsbruck”. Where it was actually snowing. And -6°. Holy moly. We walked in deep snow. I made snowballs. A Japanese tourist nearby was enthusiastically making snow angels, imploring her partner to video her. She was very excited. And rightly so. This was a real winter wonderland. 

At -6 degrees there was only so long we could have a snowball fight for, and so, we headed inside to the cafe for a warming glühwein. Checking our mental “cost of living indicator” we were pleased to see that prices had dropped significantly from Switzerland. So much so that I could even afford a hearty slice of apple strudel. Living the dream.

Hiccups on the rails

Travel has a funny way of throwing you challenges. And bringing the dream to a halt. A snap 24 hour train strike across the whole of Austria put paid to our plan of leaving Innsbruck. We had to scramble to create a plan B. Thankfully, the apartment we were in was free so we booked a second night in this wonderful city. The downside was we couldn’t amend our onward hotel in Salzburg so would end up being there two nights, rather than three. 

The extra day allowed for more exploring of the Christmas markets. If Zurich set the bar high for Xmas markets, Innsbruck raised it. Set up all around this small town the Austrians had gone all out. So festive. Fabulous lights. So many market stalls. And so much glühwein. Obviously.  We even bought our very own mug that will hopefully make it all the way back to Australia with us.

Salzburg

How would the home of Mozart compare? Our next stop in Austria was Salzburg. A city that is overseen by the very impressive fortress. Hohensalzburg Fortress started in the year 1077, and added to over the years, it now welcomes over a million tourists every year. On a clear day, looking across the German border you could probably pick out Eagles Nest. 

Eagles Nest

Inaugurated in 1939 by Hitler, for his 50th birthday, Eagles Nest is now firmly on the “Dark Tourism” trail. Places around the world that have become infamous, drawing the curious traveller. It was used as an Allied command centre until 1960, at which point it was handed back to the state of Bavaria. It now operates as a restaurant and beer garden

Back in the centre of Salzburg, we visited Mozartplatz, dominated by a large ice rink. My first, and only experience on the ice was at the rink set up in winter at Bondi Beach. Based on how well I did that day I chose to give the rink a miss and headed inside for a delicious hot chocolate, laced with a shot of rum. 

Graz

Looking at a map of Austria, considering where to go, en route to Vienna, we landed on Graz. A city of less than 300,000, it is less known for tourism than some of the places we had been. So, we got all the best of a European winter, the Xmas markets and festive lights, without the mass tourism that plagues many cities in Europe. 

Arriving on a cold, wet evening once again we were impressed by the infrastructure these European cities have. Off the train and mere steps to the connecting tram that whisked us through the old town and close to our hotel. Our mission was to dry off and find somewhere warm for a schnitzel dinner.

Graz proved to be an inspired choice for a couple of days. The Xmas markets were excellent. The weather was dry, and bitingly cold. And we felt as though we were seeing a slice of authentic Austrian life. 

Vienna

Why couldn’t I talk about Vienna without serenading Victoria to “Oh, Vienna”?  I’m sure it got very tiresome. Very quick. What didn’t get tiresome was exploring the historic centre of Vienna. A city we had both been very excited to visit. It was Vienna that initially gave us the idea of visiting the Xmas markets all those months ago. If the stars had aligned a little better we would have even been able to meet up with my oldest friend. Next time, mate?

But those markets. Oh my word. Vienna is the place to be for Xmas markets. From the ones in Maria-Theresien-Platz, to across the road at Rathausplatz, and to the cute little ones hugging the side streets in Spittelberg. It won’t surprise you that the count of Xmas decorations that Victoria has bought increased through our stay in Vienna. With the markets comes a lot of choice for food. I just loved this beef goulash served in a bread bowl. Delicious.

Mooching through Vienna reminded me of strolling the streets of Rome. Buildings on a vast scale. So many of them. Most from the Austro Hungarian empire you can only stop and stare. Vienna really lived up to any and all expectations we had. Over a final gluhwein we discussed where we should head next. Our European adventure looked to be drawing to a close. 

The question was, where would we be tomorrow?